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Social Profile
Food & Drink: There are plenty of small restaurants and coffee shops. The service tends to be slow, but the cuisine is delicious. Local specialities include mititeyi (small grilled sausages with onion and pepper) and mamaliga (thick, sticky maize pie) which is served with brinza (feta cheese). Tocana (pork stew) should be tried with sweet-and-sour watermelons and apples.
There are more than 100 varieties of excellent wines produced in Moldova. White wines include Riesling, Aligote and Sauvignon. Moldovan Cabernet and Bordeaux are noteworthy reds. Nistru or Doina brandy is an ideal accompaniment with desserts.
Nightlife: In Chisinau, there is a good selection of theatres and concerts halls, which includes an opera house. The Eminescu Music and Drama Theatre specialises in Romanian productions, as does the Youth Theatre Luceafarul (Poetic Star). All performances in the Chekhov Drama Theatre are exclusively in Russian (the building used to be the Chisinau Choral Synagogue). The Philharmonia Concert Hall houses Moldova’s Symphony Orchestra. It is also the base for the folklore Doina Choir, the internationally renowned Zhok National Dance Ensemble and the Fluerash Orchestra of National Music. Russian and Romanian productions can be seen in the puppet theatre Licurici (Glow-worm).
Shopping: Good buys are the vividly coloured costumes, handmade carpets and locally produced wines and brandies. The main open-air market or tolchok is on Calea Mosilor, about ten minutes’ drive away from central Chisinau. Although crowded, it sells everything and is a good place for bargains. Shopping hours: Larger shops open 0800-2000; all others open 0900-1700.
Social Conventions: Dress should be casual but conservative. For official engagements, men should wear a jacket and tie. The country is famous for its tradition of folk arts and there are many lively musical groups (Tarafs), which play a variety of rare folk instruments including the tsambal (not unlike a dulcimer), cimpoi (bagpipe), fluier and nai. Tipping: Five to ten per cent will be gladly accepted.
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