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Southcentral Mexico
TEOTIHUACÁN: The ‘City of the Gods’, 48km (30 miles) northeast of Mexico City, was built about 2000 years ago. It was the largest pre-Hispanic city in Mexico and, at the height of its power, controlled most of Mexico. Visitors to the site can see the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon, the Citadel with the Temple of Quetzalcoatl (the plumed serpent) and the Palace of Quetzalpapálotl (the plumed butterfly), all found in a mile-long stretch called the Calle de los Muertos (Avenue of the Dead).
TULA: Tula, 95km (59 miles) north of Mexico City, is the former capital of the Toltec empire. Architectural highlights include the four basalt Atlantes. These 5m (3ft) tall figures originally supported the roof of the sanctuary on top of the Templo de Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli (Temple of the Morning Star), and depict Quetzalcoatl as the morning star, dressed as a heavily armed Toltec warrier.
TEPOTZOTLÁN: Tepotzotlán, 43km (27 miles) from the capital, is notable for its Churrigueresque Church of San Francisco Javier, the façade of which is decorated with more than 300 sculptures of angels, saints, plants and people. On a hill nearby, there is an Aztec shrine dedicated to the god of feasting and drinking where annually, on 8 September, a fete is held which features Aztec dancing and the performance of an Aztec play. In the town itself, in the third week of December, a different kind of performance takes place. The experiences of Mexican pilgrims en route to Bethlehem are enacted in pastorellas.
ACOLMAN: The village of Acolman, 39km (24 miles) north of the capital on the road to Teotihuacán, is centred around the beautiful 16th-century monastery of San Agustin Acolman. The building is now a museum containing religious paintings and artefacts.
CUERNAVACA: Cuernavaca, 85km (53 miles) from the capital, is built around two large squares. On one stands the Palacio de Cortés (built in 1538), now a museum containing frescoes by Diego Rivera. The Cathedral dates from the 16th century. The town also contains the 18th-century Borda Gardens and the Indian market which sells huaraches (sandals), leather goods and articles made of straw.
XOCHICALCO: Situated 40km (25 miles) south of Cuernavaca, Xochicalco is one of the country’s most interesting ceremonial centres, especially noted for its Building of the Plumed Serpent.
TEPOZTLÁN: Tepoztlán (Place of Copper) is an attractive, relaxed town in a spectacular natural setting. Spread out across the valley floor, it is surrounded by steep, jagged cliffs that glow pink in the afternoon sun. It is also the legendary birthplace of Quetzalcóatl, the Aztec serpent god. Set on a cliff, 400m (1312ft) above the town, is a pyramid dedicated to Tepoztécatl, god of the harvest, fertility and pulque (a light alcoholic drink). The hour-long climb to the summit is a strenuous one, but well worth it for the extensive views that are afforded over the town, valley and surrounding hills. Dominating the town centre is the fortress-like Dominican church and monastery. From the market side, the entrance to the churchyard has an arch which is decorated with a golden mural depicting local gods and history, and crafted entirely from seeds, stones and other natural products.
TAXCO: Located 160km (100 miles) from Mexico City, Taxco has been classed as a national monument. The town’s fortune was made from the silver mines. The selling of silverware and jewellery is a thriving local trade. As well as numerous interesting, narrow and winding cobbled streets, the Church of Santa Prisca and San Sebastián is a jewel of Chirrigueresque architecture, with a reredos decorated with gold leaf and a wealth of statues and ornaments. Residences of the colonial period include the Casa Humboldt, Casa de Borda and Casa de Figueroa. A cable-car runs from Los Arcos, at the northern end of the town, to the summit of Monte Taxco. The view over the valley and surrounding mountains from the top are spectacular. The Cacahuamilpa Caves are to the north of Taxco.
TOLUCA: Toluca, 66km (41 miles) from the capital, lies in a valley dominated by the snow-capped Nevado de Toluca, an extinct volcano (its two craters are known as the Sun and the Moon). As well as a fine market, the town has several interesting museums in its Cultural Centre, dedicated to archaeology, folk and modern art. Nearby are the Indian villages of Tenancingo, Metepec and Chiconcuac. About 8km (5 miles) north of Toluca is Calixtlahuaca, an Aztec site of archaeological interest where a circular pyramid is dedicated to the god of wind.
The spa town of Ixtapan de la Sal, 80km (50 miles) from Toluca, has excellent hot springs and spa facilities. Valle de Bravo, 70km (44 miles) southwest of Toluca, is a resort town at an elevation of 1869m (6135ft), set amid pines on a large lake.
PUEBLA: Nestled in the foothills of the Sierra Madre is Puebla – originally named Puebla de los Angeles (City of the Angels) in 1531. Capital of the state of the same name, it can be reached by a 96km (60-mile) drive southwest from Mexico City. It is famous for its colonial architecture with glazed tiles (known as Talavera after a town in Spain), which cover most of the church domes and house walls, and for the skilled craftsmen who produce them. Tiles and other ceramics can be purchased in El Parián market and in the street leading to Plazuela de los Sapos. The Convention Centre, a modern building of striking elegance and clean lines, reflects its artistic heritage in its choice of tiles and use of natural materials found within the state. This juxtaposition of ancient and modern is made explicit with a walkway that literally bridges the convention centre and the Barrio del Artista (Artists’ Quarter).
In 1988, UNESCO declared Puebla part of the ‘Cultural Heritage of Mankind’. Highlights include the Cathedral (one of the oldest in Mexico), which has 14 chapels and is built of blue-grey stone. Its towers, at 69m (226ft), are the highest in Mexico. The building thus dominates the arcade-lined zócalo with its beautiful gardens and Fuente de San Miguel (Saint Michael Fountain), the patron saint of the city. On the opposite of the cathedral is the Palacio Municipal, which was remodelled in accordance with the Neo-Classical architectural guidelines issued under the Porfirian dictatorship. The Church of Santo Domingo is famous for its Capillo del Rosario (Rosary Chapel), a breathtaking masterpiece in goldleaf that was consecrated in 1690. Puebla’s colonial heritage is also expressed in the architectural riches of its former monasteries and casonas (mansions). Two of the best examples of colonial mansions are the Casa de los Muñecos (Dolls’ House), the tiles on the façade depicting the Labours of Hercules (the building is now the University Museum), and the Casa del Alfeñique (Sugar Paste House), which displays craftware and regional costumes. The city has several fine museums including Museo Bello (Pueblan Talavera and colonial religious artefacts); Museo Ampara (a superb pre-Hispanic collection of artefacts); and the Ex-Convento de Santa Rosa & Museo de Artesanías (Pueblan State handicrafts). Now a hotel, the Ex-Convento de la Concepcíon, is a startling reminder of the wealth of the church during the colonial period, with its beautifully preserved cloisters and wall paintings. From Puebla, it is possible to see the volcanoes of Popocatépetl, Iztaccíhuatl, Malinche and Citlaltépetl.
CHOLULA: 10km (6 miles) west from Puebla, Cholula is a pre-Hispanic ceremonial centre that once contained about 400 shrines and temples, most of which were destroyed by Cortés’s army and replaced with colonial churches – the Spanish claimed to have constructed 365 here. The Pyramid of Tepanapa has the largest base of any pyramid in the world and is the most striking feature of the archaeological site; on the summit stands the Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios. The plaza in the town centre has three fine churches, the most unusual being the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel), which, with its 49 domes, has the appearance of a mosque.
Excursions: Two additional places worth visiting are the churches of Santa Maria and San Francisco at Tonantzintla and Acatepec respectively. The painted stucco flowers, birds, saints and devils that cover every surface of the dome of the church at Tonantzintla demonstrate incredible artistry. The town is also noted for its fiestas which include traditional dances and processions on 15 August. The Church of San Francisco Acatepec, a few kilometres away, is notable for its exterior, clad in beautiful green, yellow and blue tiles from Puebla set in an ornate Chirrigueresque façade.
OAXACA: Known as the ‘Jade City’ due to the green tinge in the stone used in the construction of many of its buildings, Oaxaca is a culturally diverse city. It is the capital of a state whose pre-Hispanic, colonial and indigenous roots are vividly expressed through its architecture, craft traditions, Zapotec and Mixtec archaeological sites, gastronomy and festivals – the Noche de Rábanos (Night of the Radishes) and the Guelaguetza in particular reflect age-old traditions. Within its 95,364 sq km (59,258 miles) live 16 ethnic groups, each with its own dialect or language, making the state one of the most linguistically and culturally varied of any in Mexico. In 1987, UNESCO declared both Oaxaca city and the Zapotec site of Monte Albán, 9km (5.5 miles) away, to be a ‘Cultural Heritage of Humanity’. Traditional arts and crafts – hand-woven and hand embroidered clothing, alebrijes (painted wooden figures and fantastical creatures), rugs, gold jewellery and distinctive, shiny black pottery – reflect the vibrancy and skill of modern artists who have built on and refined older artistic traditions. Works by Oaxacan artists, particularly those of Rufino Tamayo, Francisco Toledo and Rodolfo Morales, are recognised internationally, and several galleries within the town specialise in modern art; it is also possible to visit artists in their homes to purchase paintings.
Oaxaca’s relaxed atmosphere belies its sizeable student and language-school population, both of which have added vibrancy to the town’s nightlife. In the bandstand of the central zócalo, the former state marimba band gives free concerts most nights of the week, while local musicians play at the tables of the cafes and restaurants under the arcades that edge the square. Dominating the northwest corner of the square is the Cathedral. Construction commenced in the 16th century but, due to earthquake damage, it was only completed two centuries later. Its Baroque façade is decorated with some fine bas-reliefs. The Neo-Classical Palacio de Gobierno, on the south side, contains murals by Arturo Garciá Bustos that show key moments from Oaxacan history and legend. The pedestrianised Calle Alcala leads to the monumental former monastery and church complex of Santo Domingo. The inside of the church is decorated with a profusion of colourful Baroque ornaments, statues and altars. Of particular interest are the family tree of St Domingo de Guzmán, the founder of the order, sculpted as a vine with leaves and tendrils; Old and New Testament scenes on the barrel roof; the main altar; and the adjoining Capilla del Rosario (Rosary Chapel). Attached to the church is the former monastery, now the Museo Regional de Oaxaca. Among the highlights of the collection are the Zapotec and Mixtec artefacts fashioned from gold, jade, silver, turquoise and quartz that were excavated from Tomb Seven at Monte Albán. Outside, the former monastery gardens are being re-landscaped and planted with Oaxacan flora, including some dramatic cacti. Also well worth a visit are the Rufino Tamayo and Contemporary Art museums.
Two churches central to the religious life of the area are the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad with its statue of the Virgin of la Soledad, patron saint of the town, to whom many miracles are ascribed, and San Juan de Dios, the oldest church in Oaxaca.
Excursions: Outside Oaxaca, other major Dominican sites of worship are to be found at Tlacochahuaya, Yanhuitlán, Teposcolula, Tlaxiaco, Coixtlahuaca and Cuilapan. Many of the villages surrounding Oaxaca have weekly markets where food and craft products can be bought, of which the following are the most notable: Tlaxiaco (blankets); Tlacolula (rugs and ceramics); Miahuatlán (mescal, leather goods and bread); Santa Ana del Valle (a general market); Etla (flowers, cheese and meat); Ejutla (embroidered clothes and mescal); Ocotlán (pottery, flowers and textiles); and Oaxaca (crafts of all descriptions). Villages where the actual manufacture of local crafts can be seen include the barro negro brillante (black, shiny pottery) of San Bartolo Coyotepec and the beautiful woven rugs stained with natural dyes at Teotitlán del Valle.
MONTE ALBÁN: Situated 14km (9 miles) drive from Oaxaca, Monte Albán was a sacred city in prehistoric times and the religious centre of the Zapotec culture, which flourished 2000 years ago. The remarkable Central Plaza, the Ball Court and many of the tombs are open to the public. It is an amazing complex situated on a levelled mountain top. Aldous Huxley wrote that ‘even today this high place of the Zapotecs remains extraordinarily impressive...Monte Albán is the work of men who knew their architectural business consummately well’. The best time to appreciate the spectacular beauty of the buildings in the changing light is either early in the morning or at sunset.
TUXTLA GUTIERREZ: The state capital of Chiapas and the home of Mexico’s famed marimba music. Set in a thriving coffee-growing region, it is a good base from which to explore the nearby villages where life has changed little since pre-Hispanic times. A short drive away is the impressive Sumidero Canyon. Mountain peaks surround the 1829m (6000ft) drop along the 42km (26-mile) rift and are an impressive sight.
SAN CRISTOBEL DE LAS CASAS: San Cristobal de las Casas was founded in 1528 by Diego de Mazariegos as the colonial capital of the region. At an altitude of 2195m (7200ft), the two-hour drive from Tuxlta Gutierrez involves a rapid temperature change. It is a cool, white-washed town with an almost alpine atmosphere. During the year, several festivals are held here, making it an important gathering spot for the local craftsmen. In the near vicinity are a number of indigenous villages populated by Tzeltzal, Tzotzil and Chamula people. These can be visited, but the visitor should respect local traditions and sensitivities, especially when taking photographs. San Cristobal is also known as a centre for writers, musicians and poets.
ELSEWHERE: Situated 45km (28 miles) from Oaxaca, the prehistoric site of Mitla features numerous Mixtec remains, including the Hall of Columns and the Column of Life, which visitors are invited to grasp if they wish to determine how long they will live. Also in the village is the Frisel Museum. Other key archaeological sites are to be found at Yagul, Lambityeco and Dainzú.
The State of Oaxaca also contains areas of outstanding natural beauty: the 2000-year-old tree at Santa Maria del Tule; the Hierve el Agua (‘frozen waterfalls’) near San Lorenzo Albarradas; and the lagoons at Chacahua and Manialtepec. Along the Pacific Coast, the resorts of Huatulco, Puerto Angel and Puerto Escondido also have dramatic natural settings, as well as excellent facilities (see the Beach Resorts section for more information).
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