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Central Myanmar
PAGAN: Pagan is one of the greatest historical areas in the country. It is best seen at sunrise or sunset. More than 13,000 pagodas were once spread over this dry plain during the golden age of the 11 great kings (roughly 1044-1287); this came to an end with the threat of invasion by Kublai Khan from China, and this extraordinary area was abandoned. Now there are fewer than 3000 pagodas. The actual village of Pagan has a museum, market and places to eat and stay; within walking distance of Bagan, there are lacquerware workshops and an attractive temple. There are dozens of open temples in the Pagan area (about 40 sq km/15 sq miles), but places of special interest include the Shwegugyi Temple, built in 1311 and noted for its fine stucco carvings; the Gawdawpalin Temple, badly damaged in the 1975 earthquake, but still one of the most impressive of the Pagan temples; and the Thatbyinnyu Temple, which is the highest in Bagan.
MANDALAY: This old royal city is rich in palaces, stupas, temples and pagodas (although the city has suffered several bad fires which have destroyed some buildings), and is the main centre of Buddhism and Burmese arts. There are some excellent craft markets and there are thriving stone-carving workshops and gold-leaf industries. Taking its name from Mandalay Hill (rising about 240m/787ft to the northeast of the palace), the city was founded by King Mindon in 1857, the old wooden palace buildings at Amarapura being moved and reconstructed. Sights of interest include the huge Shweyattaw Buddha, close to the hill, with its outstretched finger pointing towards the city; the Eindawya Pagoda, built in 1847 and covered in gold leaf; the Shwekyimyint Pagoda containing the original Buddha image consecrated by Prince Minshinzaw during the Pagan period; and the Mahumuni Pagoda or ‘Great Pagoda’, housing the famous and revered Mahumuni image. Covered in gold leaf over the years by devout Buddhists, this image was brought from Arakan in 1784, although it is thought to be much older. The base, moat and huge walls are virtually all that remain of the once stupendous Mandalay Palace, which was an immense walled city (mostly of timber construction) rather than a palace. It was burnt down in 1942. A large-scale model gives an indication of what it must have been like. The Shwenandaw Kyaung Monastery was at one time part of the palace complex and was used as an apartment by King Mindon and his chief queen. Like the palace, the wooden building was once beautifully gilded. There are some extraordinary carved panels inside and also a photograph of the Atumashi Kyaung Monastery, destroyed by fire in 1890. The ruins can be seen to the south of the Kuthodaw Pagoda, called ‘the world’s biggest book’ because of the 729 marble slabs that surround the central pagoda – they are inscribed with the entire Buddhist canon.
Excursions: The area around Mandalay contains several older, abandoned capital cities. Sagaing is easily accessible to the visitor, and contains interesting pagodas at Tupayon, Aungmyelawka and Kaunghmudaw. Sagaing was for a time the capital of an independent Shan Kingdom. In the 15th century, Ava was chosen as the kingdom’s new capital and it remained so until well into the 19th century, when the kingdom vanished; the old city walls can still be traced. Mingun (a pleasant river trip from Mandalay) possesses the famous Mingun Bell, supposedly the largest uncracked, hung bell in the world. It was cast in 1790 by King Bodawpaya to be hung in his giant pagoda, which was never finished, due to the king’s death in 1819. The base of the pagoda alone is about 50m (165ft) high. Amarapura, south of Mandalay, was founded by Bodawpaya in 1783 and the city is famous for its cotton and silk weaving.
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