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Mauritania
General Information
Area: 1,030,700 sq km (397,950 sq miles).
Population: 2,667,859 (2000).
Population Density: 2.6 per sq km.
Capital: Nouakchott. Population: 611,883 (2000).
GEOGRAPHY: Mauritania is bordered by Algeria, Mali, Western Sahara (Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic) and Senegal. To the west lies the Atlantic Ocean. Mauritania consists mainly of the vast Saharan plain of sand and scrub. Most of this area is a sea of sand dunes, but in places the land rises to rocky plateaux with deep ravines leaving isolated peaks. The Adrar plateau in the central region rises to 500m (1640ft) and the Tagant further south to 600m (1970ft). The area is scattered with towns, small villages and oases. The northern bank of the Senegal River, which forms the country’s southern border, is the only area in the country with any degree of permanent vegetation and it supports a wide variety of wildlife.
Government: Republic. Gained independence from France in 1960. Head of State: President Maaouiya Ould Sid’Achmed Taya since 1984. Head of Government: Prime Minister Sheikh Al-Afia Ould Mohammed Khouna since 1998.
Language: The official language is Arabic. The Moors of Arab/Berber stock, speaking Hassaniya dialects of Arabic, comprise the majority of the people. Other dialects include Soninke, Poular and Wolof. French and English are increasingly spoken.
Religion: Islam is the official religion. Despite ethnic and cultural differences among Mauritanians, they are all bound by a common Muslim attachment to the Malekite sect.
Time: GMT.
Electricity: 127/220 volts AC, 50Hz. Round two-pin plugs are normal.
Telephone
IDD is available in Nouakchott and Nouadhibou. Country code: 222 (no area codes). Outgoing international calls must go through the operator.
Mobile telephone
GSM 900 networks planned to offer coverage in main towns. Operaters will include Mauritel and Mattel.
Internet
ISPs include Mauritel (website: www.mauritel.mr).
Post
International postal facilities are limited to main cities. Airmail to Europe takes approximately two weeks.
Press
Newspapers are in French and Arabic. The only daily is Chaab. The main weeklies inlcude Al-Alame, Le Calame, L’Eveil-Hebado, Nouakchott-Info and Rajoul Echarée.
BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change.
BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice):
Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov):
Passport/Visa
| | Passport Required? | Visa Required? | Return Ticket Required? | | British | Yes | Yes | Yes | | Australian | Yes | Yes | Yes | | Canadian | Yes | Yes | Yes | | USA | Yes | Yes | Yes | | OtherEU | Yes | Yes | Yes | | Japanese | Yes | Yes | Yes |
PASSPORTS: Valid passports required by all except nationals of some other ECOWAS countries (Burkina Faso, Cape Verde, Côte d’Ivoire, Gambia, Ghana, Guinea, Mali, Niger, Senegal and Sierra Leone) and Cameroon, Central African Republic, Chad, Congo, Gabon and Madagascar holding a valid national ID card.
VISAS: Required by all except the following:
(a) nationals of Algeria, Benin, Burkina Faso, Cape Verde, Chad, Congo (Rep), Côte d'Ivoire, Gabon, Gambia, Ghana, Guinea, Guinea Bissau, Liberia, Libya, Madagascar, Mali, Niger, Nigeria, Romania, Senegal, Sierra Leone, Togo and Tunisia;
(b) transit passengers continuing their journey by the same or first connecting aircraft provided holding onward or return documentation and not leaving the airport.
Types of visa and cost: Tourist or Business: £42. All visas are multiple-entry.
Validity: Three months.
Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy); see Contact Addresses section.
Application requirements: (a) Valid passport. (b) Two application forms. (c) Two passport-size photos. (d) Fee. (e) Evidence of return ticket or onward ticket or sufficient currency for the length of stay. (f) For Business visas, a letter of invitation from sponsor may be required. (g) Stamped, self-addressed envelope if applying by post.
Working days required: Can usually be processed on the same day as application.
Temporary residence: Applications should be made to the Home Ministry in Mauritania.
Money
Currency: Mauritanian Ouguiya (UM) = 5 khoums. Notes are in denominations of UM1000, 500, 200 and 100. Coins are in denominations of UM20, 10, 5 and 1, and 1 and 0.2 khoums.
Currency exchange: Currency declaration forms are issued on arrival and should be kept. Currencies can be exchanged at the airport or at the main banks in Nouakchott. It is illegal to exchange money on the black market.
Credit & debit cards: Generally not accepted. American Express is accepted in a few hotels in Nouakchott and Nouadhibou. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services which may be available.
Travellers cheques: Limited use. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in US Dollars.
Currency restrictions: The import and export of local currency is prohibited. There is no restriction on the import of foreign currency provided the amount is declared on arrival. The balance of foreign currency not spent but declared on entry may be exported, but the import declaration must be produced.
Exchange rate indicators The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Ouguiya against Sterling and the US Dollar:
| Date | May ’02 | Aug ’02 | Nov ’02 | Feb ’03 | | £1.00= | 408.05 | 416.58 | 429.75 | 426.41 | | $1.00= | 280.00 | 273.90 | 271.75 | 267.80 |
Banking hours: Sun-Thurs 0800-1600.
Duty Free
The following items can be imported into Mauritania by persons of 18 years of age and over without incurring customs duty:
200 cigarettes or 25 cigars or 450g of tobacco (women – cigarettes only); 50g of perfume; 250ml eau de toilette; 1 still camera, 1 cinecamera and 1 wireless set.
Prohibited items: Alcohol cannot be imported.
Public Holidays
Dec 6-8 Korité (End of Ramadan). Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Feb 12 Tabaski (Feast of the Sacrifice). Mar 5 Islamic New Year. May 1 Labour Day. May 14 Mouloud (Prophet’s Birthday). May 25 African Liberation Day (Anniversary of the OAU’s Foundation). Jul 10 Armed Forces Day. Nov 26-28 Korité (End of Ramadan). Nov 28 National Day. Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Feb 2 Tabaski (Feast of the Sacrifice). Feb 22 Islamic New Year. May 1 Labour Day. May 2 Mouloud (Prophet’s Birthday). May 25 African Liberation Day (Anniversary of the OAU’s Foundation). Jul 10 Armed Forces Day. Nov 14-16 Korité (End of Ramadan). Nov 28 National Day.
Note: Muslim festivals are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximations. During the lunar month of Ramadan that precedes Korité (Eid al-Fitr), Muslims fast during the day and feast at night and normal business patterns may be interrupted. Many restaurants are closed during the day and there may be restrictions on smoking and drinking. Some disruption may continue into Korité itself. Korité and Tabaski (Eid al-Adha) may last anything from two to ten days, depending on the region. For more information, see the World of Islam appendix.
Health
| | Special Precautions | Certificate Required | | Yellow Fever | Yes | 1 | | Cholera | 2 | No | | Typhoid and Polio | 3 | N/A | | Malaria | 4 | N/A |
1: A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from all travellers over one year of age, except travellers arriving from a non-infected area and staying less than two weeks in the country.
2: Following WHO guidelines issued in 1973, a cholera vaccination certificate is not a condition of entry to Mauritania. However, cholera is a serious risk in this country and precautions are essential. Up-to-date advice should be sought before deciding whether these precautions should include vaccination, as medical opinion is divided over its effectiveness. See the Health appendix for further information.
3: Immunisation against typhoid is recommended and vaccination against poliomyelitis is sometimes advised.
4: Malaria risk, mainly in the malignant falciparum form, exists throughout the year except in the following northern areas: Dakhlet-Nouadhibou and Tiris-Zemour. In Adrar and Inchiri there is a malaria risk during the rainy season (July through October).
Food & drink: All water should be regarded as being potentially contaminated. Water used for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should have first been boiled or otherwise sterilised. Milk is unpasteurised and should be boiled. Powdered or tinned milk is available and is advised, but make sure it is reconstituted with pure water. Avoid dairy products that are likely to have been made from unboiled milk. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish, preferably served hot. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled.
Other risks: Bilharziasis (schistosomiasis) exists. Avoid swimming or paddling in fresh water. Swimming pools that are well chlorinated and maintained are safe. Also present are hepatitis A and E. Hepatitis B is hyperendemic. Rift Valley fever is present in the Trarza region. Epidemics of meningococcal meningitis may occur, particularly in the savannah areas and during the dry season. Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix.
Health care: Medical facilities are very limited. Nouakchott boasts the country’s best medical facilities with many doctors, most in private practices or clinics, and plenty of chemists stocking most existing French medicines. The hospital in the capital has 450 beds; there are fewer than 100 other beds elsewhere. Health insurance, to include cover for emergency repatriation, is essential.
Travel - International
AIR: Mauritania’s national airline is Air Mauritanie (MR). Air France operates weekly flights from London to Nouakchott via Paris. Other airlines serving Mauritania include Air Algerie, Delta Air Lines, Royal Air Maroc and Tunis Air.
Approximate flight times: From Nouakchott to London is 7 hours (via Paris).
International airports: Nouakchott (NKC) is 5km (3 miles) east of the city (travel time – 20 minutes). Taxis are available. Facilities include shops and restaurants.
Nouâdhibou (NDB) is 4km (2.5 miles) from the city. Taxis are available.
Departure tax: UM560 for those departing for countries in Africa. UM860 for all other countries.
SEA: The principal port is Nouadhibou and there is a small port at Nouakchott, while St Louis in Senegal also serves Mauritania.
ROAD: The most reliable way into Mauritania overland is from Senegal. From Dakar, the journey to Nouakchott is along a 575km (360-mile) tarred road (travel time – approximately 8 hours). The River Senegal has to be crossed by ferry at Rosso. A service operates daily 0730-1200 and 1500-1800. There is also a paved road from Mali. Travellers intending to drive into Mauritania from the north should contact the nearest Mauritanian diplomatic mission for an assessment of political conditions in the Western Sahara; the Route de Mauritanie via Algeria and Senegal is out of service. The border with Algeria is currently closed.
Travel - Internal
AIR: Air Mauritanie (MR) operates internal flights between Nouakchott and Atâr, Nouâdhibou (daily), Ayoûn el Atroûs, Tidjikja, Kaédi, Néma and Zouérat. It is possible to charter light aircraft.
Departure tax: UM270.
RAIL: The only line runs between Nouâdhibou and Zouérat and is provided by the national mining company, SNIM, to serve the ore mines. Services are free but booking in advance is advisable; journeys are long and arduous and not recommended.
ROAD: Traffic drives on the right. There are adequate roads linking Nouakchott with Rosso in the south of the country, Néma in the southeast and Akjoujt in the north. A paved highway, namely La Route de l’Espoir, runs east from Nouakchott to Mali. All other routes are sand tracks necessitating the use of four-wheel drive vehicles. In some regions during and after the rainy season roads may become impassable. Similarly, in the dry season tracks can be obscured by drifting sand; a guide is highly recommended if not essential. Car hire: Available in Nouakchott, Nouâdhibou and Atâr. Four-wheel drive vehicles with a driver can be hired and are recommended, but they are expensive. Documentation: An International Driving Permit is recommended, although it is not legally required.
Note: Travellers should never attempt any desert journey without a full set of spare parts and essential safety equipment. The Direction du Tourisme in Nouakchott, part of the Ministère du Commerce de l’Artisanat et du Tourisme, can give further information and advice on road travel (see Contact Addresses section).
URBAN: Taxis are very expensive in the towns (Nouakchott and Nouadhibou) but plentiful. Fares are set, not metered, and a small tip is expected.
Accommodation
HOTELS: Hotel accommodation is very limited in Mauritania and visitors are advised to book well in advance. The larger hotels in Nouakchott are comfortable and have air conditioning, but even in the capital accommodation is limited and expensive. Bills normally include service and local tax.
REST HOUSES: There are numerous government rest houses throughout the country, bookable through the Ministère du Commerce de l’Artisanat et du Tourisme (see Contact Addresses section).
Introduction
Much of the land is dry and inhospitable and many locations are difficult to reach without long journeys in four-wheel drive vehicles. Drawbacks aside, Mauritania is a fascinating country with a colourful, indigenous Moorish population.
NOUAKCHOTT: The capital of Mauritania is a new city created in 1960. It lies near the sea in a desert landscape of low dunes scattered with thorn bushes, on a site adjoining an old Moorish settlement, the Ksar. The modern buildings maintain the traditional Berber style of architecture. The following places are worth visiting: the Plage du Wharf, the mosque, the Ksar and its market, the African market and the camel market, the crafts centre, the Maison de la Culture and the carpet factory.
PARC NATIONAL DU BANC D’ARGUIN: Possibly Mauritania’s best attraction, this national park is a vast area of islands and coastline located on the Atlantic desert coast midway between Nouakchott and Nouâdhibou. The park, which was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, is one of the world’s largest bird sanctuaries and provides a shelter for over two million migrant birds from northern Europe. There are also several archaeological sites on the islands.
THE COAST: Mauritania’s coast is essentially an 800km-long (500-mile) sandy beach, all but devoid of vegetation, but supporting an astonishingly large and varied population of birds. The waters are equally rich in fish and consequently, despite the shortage of fresh water, some coastal stretches are inhabited by people. A growing port and centre of the fishing industry, Nouâdhibou is situated on a peninsula at the northern end of the Bay of Levrier. Inland, the landscape is empty desert.
One tribe, halfway between Nouakchott and Nouâdhibou, survives through a symbiotic relationship with wild dolphins: the marine mammals drive fish towards the shore, the tribesmen swim out with nets, and both get their share. Foreign trawlers, however, are rapidly depleting offshore fish stocks.
ADRAR REGION: It is important to check on conditions for travel before setting out for this region as government permission may be necessary. The Adrar is a spectacular massif of pink and brown plateaux gilded with dunes and intersected by deep canyons sheltering palm groves. It lies in the north central part of the country, and begins about 320km (200 miles) northeast of Nouakchott. Atâr, capital of the region, is an oasis lying on the route of salt caravans. It is the market centre for the nomads of northern Mauritania and has an old quarter, the Ksar, with flat-roofed houses and a fine palm grove. The oasis of Azoughui was the Almoravid capital in the 11th and 12th centuries, and remains of fortified buildings from this period can still be seen. A whole day excursion from Atar leads over the breathtaking mountain pass of Homogjar to Chinguetti, a holy city of Islam, founded in the 13th century, and now listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage site. The city has a medieval mosque and a library housing ancient manuscripts, but much of the old town is disappearing under the encroaching drifts of sand.
AFFOLÉ AND ASSABA REGIONS: It is worth making a tour of the Affolé and Assaba regions, south and southeast of the Tagant, via Kiffa, Tamchakett and Ayoun el Atrous, to the wild plateaux of El Agher. The interesting archaeological sites include Koumbi Saleh, once capital of the Ghana Empire, 70km (45 miles) from Timbedra along a good track. Near Tamchakett is Tagdawst, which has been identified as ‘Aoudaghost’, ancient capital of a Berber empire. Oualata lies 100km (60 miles) from Néma at the end of a desert track. Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, Oualata was at one time among the greatest caravan entrepôts of the Sahara. A fortified medieval town built in terraces up a rocky peak, it has for centuries been a place of refuge for scholars and has a fine library. The Muslim cemetery of Tirzet is nearby.
Sport & Activities
Birdwatching: The Parc National du Banc d’Arguin is reputed to be one of Africa’s best places for birdwatching. Amongst the many species that can be observed are large colonies of aquatic birds, such as herons, pelicans and flamingoes. The park is fairly difficult to access and the entry fee is approximately US$6 per day. The head office is located in Nouâdhibou.
Watersports: There are some good spots for fishing and even surfing along the coast in the west. Swimming is also possible, but travellers should note that pickpocketing and crime is reported to be rife on Mauritania’s beaches. Remote and deserted beaches can be found near Nouâdhibou, although travellers should beware of landmines in the area.
Social Profile
Food & Drink: Moroccan, Lebanese, Chinese and French restaurants can be found in the capital, especially in hotels. Local cuisine, based on lamb, goat and rice can be sampled throughout the country. Mauritanian food includes mechoui (whole roast lamb), dates, spiced fish and rice with vegetables, fish balls, dried fish, dried meat and couscous.
Consumption of alcohol is prohibited by the Islamic faith, but alcoholic beverages may be found in hotel bars. Zrig (camel’s milk) is a common drink, as is sweet Arab tea with mint.
Shopping: Handicrafts such as dyed leather cushions and some engraved silver items, rugs and woodcarvings can be bought on the open market. A fine selection of silver jewellery, daggers, wood and silver chests, carpets and decorated nomad tents can be bought in the crafts centre in Nouakchott. Unique to the Tagant region are neolithic arrowheads, awls and pottery, while at Boutilimit in the south is a Marabout centre (Institute of High Islamic Studies) where fine carpets of goat and camel hair are made. Shopping hours: Sat-Thurs 0800-1200 and 1400-1900.
Social Conventions: Islam has been the major influence in this country since the seventh and eighth centuries and visitors should respect the religious laws and customs. Dress for women should be uncompromisingly modest. Nearly all the population have traditionally been nomadic herdsmen. The bulk of the population is divided into two main Moorish groups, the Bidan (55 per cent) and the Harattin (20 per cent), with the non-Moorish population concentrated in the Senegal River area. Different classes and tribes tend to be contiguous. Tipping: 12-15 per cent is normal.
Business Profile
Economy: Successive years of drought and encroaching desert have consumed large areas of Mauritania’s cultivable land. More than half the population is engaged in subsistence agriculture producing vegetables, millet, rice and dates, and rearing livestock, mostly in the area south of the Senegal River. The quantities produced are insufficient to meet domestic needs and Mauritania relies on imports of basic foodstuffs.
Fishing is essential both to domestic needs and the country’s export income, also for the revenue from licences granted to foreign fleets from Korea, Japan and Russia. Mining is Mauritania’s principal industry: the main products are iron ore (output of which has been cut due to falling demand), gypsum and gold. There are plans to exploit the country’s copper reserves, which were long thought uneconomic, as well as newly located diamond deposits. Offshore drilling for oil and gas fields has recently begun. Nonetheless, Mauritania will remain an exceptionally poor country for the foreseeable future and a major aid recipient, with other Arab countries as the main donors. The IMF and World Bank have given some economic support in exchange for the standard economic reform programme.
Current economic growth is around five per cent annually. Nonetheless, Mauritania’s financial position remains precarious. Japan and the southern EU countries are the main export markets, while the major exporters to Mauritania are France, Spain, Germany, the Netherlands and the USA. Mauritania is a member of the Union of the Arab Maghreb. It was also a member of the Economic Community of West African States (ECOWAS) until its withdrawal from the organisation in 2000.
Business: Use forms of address as for France, eg ‘Monsieur le Directeur’. It is essential that business people have a sound knowledge of French, as very few executives speak English. Office hours: Sun-Thurs 0800-1500.
Commercial Information: The following organisation can offer advice: Chambre de Commerce, d’Agriculture, d’Elevage, d’Industrie et des Mines de Mauritanie, Avenue de la Republique, BP 215, Nouakchott (tel: 252 214; fax: 253 895).
Climate
Most of the country is hot and dry with practically no rain. In the south, however, rainfall is higher with a rainy season which runs from July to September. The coast is tempered by trade winds and is mild with the exception of the hot Nouakchott region (where the rainy season begins a month later). Deserts are cooler and windy in March and April.
Required clothing: Lightweight cottons and linens, with a warm wrap for cool evenings. Waterproofs are necessary for the rainy season.
History and Government
History: Mauritania lies across one of the great trans-Saharan trade routes. For over 500 years up to 1674 when the Arabs defeated them, the Almoravid Dynasty controlled the trade in gold, slaves and salt. Various European navigators made fitful contact with the region, but French domination of the region was only established in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Mauritania achieved full independence from France in 1960. Since the mid-1970s the country has been locked in conflict with its two northern neighbours, Algeria and Morocco, concerning the future of Western Sahara (formerly Spanish Sahara) which was ceded jointly to Morocco and Mauritania by Spain in 1975. The main opposition to the 1975 settlement came from the Polisario Front, which demanded self-determination for Western Sahara (and achieved recognition by the UN as the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic).
The dominant political figure in Mauritania for the last two decades has been Maaouiya Ould Sid’Ahmed Taya, a former army officer who first seized power in a military coup in 1984. In common with many other African nations, Mauritania came under pressure in the early 1990s to introduce representative civilian government. A new constitution was introduced in 1991; elections for a presidency and a bicameral parliament were held the following year. Taya reinvented himself as a civilian politician and comfortably won the presidential race. His supporters in the Democratic and Social Republican Party secured a healthy majority in both houses; those results were confirmed in 1996 and again in 2001. Taya was elected to a second six-year term in 1998.
Despite the DSRP’s firm grip on Mauritanian politics, it has not gone unchallenged and there has been growing discontent over its conduct of elections and the government’s often heavy-handed approach to political opposition. The main opposition comes from the organised labour movement and Islamist organisations. Both are subject to periodic crackdowns. There are also tensions between black Mauritanians and those of Arab origin (reflected in a notorious pogrom of blacks in 1989 during which thousands were killed and exiled).
Like all countries in the Sahel region, Mauritania has suffered from recent droughts. Debt relief has eased the country’s financial position but the mainly agricultural economy remains in difficulties.
Mauritania is a member of the Union of the Arab Maghreb, the North African political and economic union formed in February 1989 with Morocco, Libya, Tunisia and Algeria. Relations with Morocco, which have been strained in the past because of Western Sahara, have improved since the change of regime in Morocco. To the south, there have been a number of border disputes between Mauritania and Senegal over agricultural rights, although current diplomatic relations are normal. Mauritania is one of the few countries in the world to maintain a good relationship with Saddam Hussein’s Iraq. It is also the only Arab League nation apart from Egypt and Jordan to have established (in 1999) diplomatic relations with Israel
Government: The latest constitution, which allows for a multi-party political system, was introduced in July 1991 after approval in a national referendum. Executive power rests with the President, elected by universal suffrage, for a six-year term. The bicameral legislature, also popularly elected, comprises a 79-seat National Assembly (elected for five years) and a 56-member Senate with a six-year mandate. The President appoints a Prime Minister who is Head of Government.
Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.
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