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Malaysia
Overview
‘Beauty and diversity in the southern seas’
Malaysia is the rising star of South East Asian tourism, a nation looking to the future while cherishing the ways of the past. Centuries of trade have resulted in a vibrant mix of Malay, Chinese, Indian and indigenous tribal cultures, creating a veritable melting pot of peoples, traditions and religions. The magnificent landscape is no less diverse – dense jungles, soaring peaks and lush tropical rainforests harbour an abundant flora and fauna. Tropical island resorts and endless white, sandy beaches offer a taste of paradise, while beneath warm coral seas world-class dive sites await exploration.
Kuala Lumpur, the country’s showpiece, is a city of skyscrapers, contrasting vividly with historic Malacca, the ancient heart of the Malay culture. Old colonial hill resorts offer refuge from summer heat, while exotic Penang island offers a heady mix of traditional culture and resort fun. Beyond peninsular Malaysia yet more delights await on the stunning Langkawi islands and with the unique tribal cultures of Sabah and Sarawak, Malaysia’s provinces on Borneo.
Year-round sunshine, superb scenery and a relaxed atmosphere ensure Malaysia’s continued reputation as a first-class beach destination. Recent promotions of the country as a shopping paradise and eco-tourism centre will doubtless draw many more people to discover the fabulous diversity of this beautiful country.
Lucy Moss
General Information
Area: 329,733 sq km (127,311 sq miles).
Population: 22,712,000 (official estimate 1999).
Population Density: 68.9 per sq km.
Capital: Kuala Lumpur. Population: 1,297,526 (2000).
GEOGRAPHY: Malaysia is situated in central South-East Asia, bordering on Thailand in the north, with Singapore and Indonesia to the south and the Philippines to the east. It is composed of Peninsular Malaysia and the states of Sabah and Sarawak on the north coast of the island of Borneo, 650-950km (404-600 miles) across the South China Sea. Peninsular Malaysia is an area of forested mountain ranges running north–south, on either side of which are low-lying coastal plains. The coastline extends some 1900km (1200 miles). The west coast consists of mangrove swamps and mudflats which separate into bays and inlets. In the west, the plains have been cleared and cultivated, while the unsheltered east coast consists of tranquil beaches backed by dense jungle. Sarawak has alluvial and, in places, swampy coastal plains with rivers penetrating the jungle-covered hills and mountains of the interior. Sabah has a narrow coastal plain which gives way to mountains and jungle. Mount Kinabalu, at 4094m (13,432ft), is the highest peak in Malaysia. The major islands are Langkawi (a group of 99 islands), Penang and Pangkor off the west coast; and Tioman, Redang, Kapas, Perhentian and Rawa off the east coast.
Government: Constitutional monarchy since 1963. Gained independence from the UK in 1957. Head of State: King Syed Sirrajuddin ibni al-Marhum Syed Putra Jamalullail since 2001. Head of Government: Prime Minister Datuk Seri Mahatir Mohammad since 1981.
Language: Bahasa Malaysia is the national and official language, but English is widely spoken. Other languages such as Chinese (Cantonese and Hokkien), Iban and Tamil are spoken by minorities.
Religion: Muslim (53 per cent) and Buddhist (19 per cent) majorities. The remainder are Christian, Taoist, Confucianist, Hindu and Animist.
Time: GMT + 8.
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz. Square three-pin plugs and bayonet-type light fittings are generally used.
Communications:
Telephone
Full IDD is available. Country code: 60. Outgoing international code: 00. Public coin-operated phones can be found in many areas, such as supermarkets and post offices. Local calls cost 10 sen. Public cardphones can be found throughout the country. Cards can be purchased at airports, petrol stations and some shops for amounts ranging from RM3-50. There are currently two types – Kadfon and Unicard – and these can only be used in their appropriate marked phone booths.
Mobile telephone
GSM 900 and 1800 networks cover practically the whole country. Network operators include Celcom (website: www.celcom.com.my), DiGi (website: www.digi.com.my), Maxis Mobile (website: www.maxis.com.my) and TIMECel (website: www.time.com.my).
Fax
Centres for public use are located in the main post offices of all large towns. Most main hotels also have facilities.
Internet
ISPs include Jaring (website: www.jaring.net.my) and TMnet (website: www.tm.net.my). There are numerous Internet cafes. Hotels and hostels often have facilities.
Telegram
Telegrams can be sent from any telegraph office.
Post
There are post offices in the commercial centre of all towns, open Mon-Sat 0800-1700.
Press
The English-language dailies printed in peninsular Malaysia are the Malaysiakini, Business Times, Malay Mail, New Straits Times, The Sun and The Star. There are also several English-language Sunday newspapers and periodicals. English-language newspapers available in Sarawak include the Sarawak Tribune and Borneo Post. English-language dailies in Sabah include the Sabah Times, Daily Express and Borneo Mail.
BBC World Service frequencies: From time to time these change.
BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice):
Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov):
Passport/Visa
| | Passport Required? | Visa Required? | Return Ticket Required? | | British | Yes | No/1 | Yes | | Australian | Yes | No/2 | Yes | | Canadian | Yes | No/2 | Yes | | USA | Yes | No/3 | Yes | | OtherEU | Yes | No/1 | Yes | | Japanese | Yes | No/3 | Yes |
Restricted entry: Nationals of Israel and Yugoslavia (Serbia and Montenegro), foreign women who are at least six months pregnant (unless in transit) and those of scruffy appearance will be denied entry. Passports issued by Chinese Taipei are not recognised unless accompanied by a document in lieu of a passport and an entry visa.
PASSPORTS: A valid passport or other travel documents recognised by the Malaysian government required by all. The former must have enough pages for the embarkation stamp upon arrival and be valid for at least six months at date of entry. The latter should be endorsed with a valid re-entry permit.
Note: All visitors must also have proof of adequate funds and an onward or return sea or air ticket.
VISAS: Most visitors (including all nationals of countries listed in the chart) do not require a visa to enter Malaysia if the period is less than one month and the purpose of the visit is business or social (see below for more detailed requirements). However, visas are required at all times by nationals of the following countries: Afghanistan, Angola, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Burkina Faso, Burundi, Cameroon, Central African Republic, China (PR), Comoros, Congo (Rep), Congo (Dem Rep), Côte D’Ivoire, Djibouti, Equatorial Guinea, Eritrea, Ethiopia, Ghana, Guinea-Bissau, Hong Kong (SAR), India, Liberia, Mali, Myanmar, Mozambique, Nepal, Niger, Nigeria, Pakistan, Rwanda, Sri Lanka, Taiwan and Western Sahara (nationals of these countries may be granted visa relaxation for transit through Malaysia, for less than five days, via a Malaysian international airport, if in possession of confirmed onward airline tickets to a third country before arriving). British Overseas Citizens also require a visa.
Visas are not required by the following for social or business visits:
(a) 1. nationals of EU countries for stays of up to three months (except nationals of Greece and Portugal for stays of up to one month);
(b) 2. nationals of Commonwealth countries (except nationals of those countries mentioned above who do require a visa) for stays of up to one month; nationals of Australia, Canada, New Zealand and South Africa for up to three months;
(c) 3. nationals of Albania, Algeria, Bahrain, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Brazil, Croatia, Cuba, Czech Republic, Egypt, Fiji, Hungary, Iceland, Japan, Jordan, Korea (Rep), Kyrgyzstan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Liechtenstein, Morocco, Norway, Oman, Peru, Poland, Qatar, Romania, San Marino, Saudi Arabia, Slovakia, Switzerland, Tunisia, Turkey, Turkmenistan, United Arab Emirates, Uruguay, USA and Yemen for stays of up to three months;
(d) nationals of Iran, Iraq, Libya, Palestine, Syria and holders of a Portuguese Certificate of Identity or a Macao Travel Permit for stays of up to 14 days;
(e) nationals of all countries other than those mentioned above for stays of up to one month;
(f) travellers on transit to another country, for less than five days, with a confirmed ticket via a Malaysian airport.
Note: Nationals of India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka must apply for a visa from the consulate, embassy or Malaysian Immigration Department in their countries of residence. Visitors intending to stay longer than the granted period should write to the Immigration Department at the Malaysian High Commission in the country in which they are applying.
Types of visa and cost: Social, Business and Transit: single- and multiple-entry visa prices are flat-rate fees of £10, except for Indian passports, in which case the multiple-entry fee is £20. Prices are subject to change. Enquire at the Malaysian High Commission for details.
Validity: The permitted length of stay is entered on the visa at the time of issue and is at the discretion of the issuer. Normally three to 12 months from date of issue. Extensions are possible. Enquire at the Malaysian High Commission for further details.
Application and enquiries to: Malaysian High Commission; see Contact Addresses section.
Application requirements: (a) Passport valid for at least six months. (b) Two passport-size photos. (c) Fee (payable in cash or postal order only). (d) Three completed and signed application forms (at a charge of £0.50 each). (e) Proof of sufficient funds (including original and photocopy of most recent bank statement). (f) Onward or return ticket or travel itinerary from travel agent. (g) Compulsory yellow fever vaccination certificate for all visitors coming from infected areas. (h) Letter of introduction (and copy) from applicant’s employer, college or university.
Working days required: Same day – morning submission of the application (0900-1200) and afternoon collection (1530).
Temporary residence: Those wishing to take up employment should apply for a job in advance. Their prospective employers should then apply on their behalf for a Professional or Employment Pass by contacting the Malaysian Immigration Head Office, Block I, Pusat Bandar Damansara, Bukit Damansutra, 50550 Kuala Lumpur (tel: (3) 255 5077; fax: (3) 256 2340). For further details contact the Malaysian High Commission (see Contact Addresses section).
Money
Currency: Ringgit (RM) = 100 sen. Notes are in denominations of RM1000, 500, 100, 50, 10, 5, 2 and 1. The RM1000 and RM500 notes are now being phased out. Coins are in denominations of RM1, and 50, 20, 10, 5 and 1 sen. There are also many commemorative coins in various denominations which are legal tender. The Ringgit is often referred to as the Malaysian Dollar.
Currency exchange: The best currency for exchange is the Pound Sterling, but US Dollars are also widely accepted. Although all major currencies can be exchanged easily in the main tourist centres, problems may occur elsewhere. It is difficult to exchange Malaysian currency outside of Malaysia, Singapore or Indonesia. All visitors need to fill in a Travellers Declaration Form (TDF); see Currency restrictions below for details.
Credit & debit cards: MasterCard, Visa, Diners Club and American Express are accepted. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services which may be available.
Travellers cheques: Accepted by all banks, hotels and large department stores. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in Pounds Sterling, US Dollars, or Australian Dollars.
Currency restrictions: All visitors entering Malaysia (including children) must declare amounts over RM1000 that they have in their possession (local and equivalent in foreign currencies) on a Travellers Declaration Form (TDF), which can be obtained at the airport or Malaysian embassies, high commissions and tourist offices. On departure, the TDF has to be filled in prior to immigration clearance.
The import and export of local currency is limited to RM1000. The import of foreign currency is unlimited. The export of foreign currency is limited to the amount imported on arrival.
Exchange rate indicators
The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Ringgit against Sterling and the US Dollar:
| Date | May ’02 | Aug ’02 | Nov ’02 | Feb ’03 | | £1.00= | 5.54 | 5.78 | 6.01 | 6.05 | | $1.00= | 3.80 | 3.80 | 3.80 | 3.80 |
Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1500, Sat 0930-1130. Banks in Sabah open at 0800 and usually break for lunch (1200-1400).
Duty Free
The following goods may be imported into Malaysia without incurring customs duty:
200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 225g of tobacco; 1l of spirits or wine or malt liquor; 1 bottle of perfume up to the value of RM200; gifts and souvenirs not exceeding a total value of RM200; 100 matches.
Controlled and prohibited items: It is prohibited to import any goods from South Africa and Israel. Non-prescribed drugs, weapons, pornography, any cloth bearing the imprint or reproduction of any verses of The Koran, as well as any imprint or reproduction of any currency note or coin, are prohibited. Drug-smuggling carries the death penalty.
Public Holidays
Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Feb 1-3 Chinese New Year. Feb 12 Hari Raya Haji (Feast of the Sacrifice). Mar 5 Hari Raya Tussa (Islamic New Year). May 1 Labour Day. May 14 Birth of the Prophet Muhammad. May 16 Wesak Day (Birth of the Buddha). Jun 7 Official Birthday of HM the Yang di-Pertuan Agong. Aug 31 National Day. Oct 25 Deepavali Festival. Nov 26-28 Hari Raya Puasa (End of Ramadan). Dec 25 Christmas Day. Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Jan 22-24 Chinese New Year. Feb 2 Hari Raya Haji (Feast of the Sacrifice). Feb 22 Hari Raya Tussa (Islamic New Year). May 1 Labour Day. May 2 Birth of the Prophet Muhammad. May 4 Wesak Day (Birth of the Buddha). Jun 5 Official Birthday of HM the Yang di-Pertuan Agong. Aug 31 National Day. Nov 12 Deepavali Festival. Nov 14-16 Hari Raya Puasa (End of Ramadan). Dec 25 Christmas Day.
Note: (a) Muslim festivals are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximations. During the lunar month of Ramadan that precedes Hari Raya Puasa, Muslims fast during the day and feast at night and normal business patterns may be interrupted. Many restaurants are closed during the day and there may be restrictions on smoking and drinking. Some disruption may continue into Hari Raya Puasa itself and Hari Raja Haji may last anything from two to ten days, depending on the region. For more information see the World of Islam appendix. (b) Buddhist festivals are also timed according to phases of the moon and variations may occur.
Health
| | Special Precautions | Certificate Required | | Yellow Fever | No | 1 | | Cholera | Yes | 2 | | Typhoid and Polio | 3 | N/A | | Malaria | 4 | N/A |
1: A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from travellers over one year of age coming from infected areas. Those countries formerly classified as endemic by the WHO are considered by the Malaysian authorities to be infected areas.
2: Following WHO guidelines issued in 1973, a cholera vaccination certificate is not a condition of entry to Malaysia, although it may be required if travelling on to a cholera-infected country. However, outbreaks have been reported in Malaysia in the recent past. See the Health appendix.
3: Typhoid risk exists, especially in rural areas.
4: Malaria risk exists only in certain isolated inland regions. Urban and coastal areas are safe, with the exception being Sabah where there is a risk, predominantly in the malignant falciparum form, throughout the year. The falciparum strain is reported to be highly resistant to chloroquine and resistant to sulfadoxine/pyrimethamine.
Food & drink: All water should be regarded as being potentially contaminated. Water used for drinking or making ice should have first been boiled or otherwise sterilised. Milk is unpasteurised and should be boiled. Powdered or tinned milk is available and is advised, but make sure that it is reconstituted with pure water. Avoid dairy products that are likely to have been made from unboiled milk. Only eat well cooked meat and fish, preferably served hot. Pork, salad and mayonnaise may carry increased risk. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled.
Note: It is generally considered safe to drink water straight from the tap; however, as no authority is absolutely clear on this matter the above advice is included as it reflects the necessity for caution for visitors who are unused to the Malaysian way of life.
Other risks: Hepatitis A, C and E occur and hepatitis B is hyperendemic. Epidemics of dengue fever and Japanese encephalitis can occur in both urban and rural areas. Immunisation against tetanus, TB, diphtheria, hepatitis A and E is recommended. In 2002, the Malaysian Health Ministry declared a nationwide meningococcal meningitis alert after three people died from the disease.
There may be some risk of rabies in certain areas. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix.
Health care: Health insurance is recommended. Hospitals are found in all the main cities and can deal with all major needs. Private hospitals, some managed and staffed by British-trained doctors and nurses, provide a high standard of medical care and include Gleneagles Intan Medical Centre in Kuala Lumpur and Ampang Puteri Specialist Hospital, Selangor. Smaller towns and rural areas have private clinics. In an emergency, dial 999.
Travel - International
AIR: The national airline is Malaysia Airlines (MH), which is southeast Asia’s biggest airline and flies to over 110 cities across six continents. Further details can be obtained from the London office of Malaysia Airlines (tel: (0870) 607 9090; website: www.malaysiaairlines.com). Singapore Airlines, Royal Brunei and Thai International operate flights to certain Malaysian destinations.
Approximate flight times: From Kuala Lumpur to London is 12 hours and 25 minutes.
International airports: Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KUL) (Sepang) (website: www.klia.com.my) is 55 km (34 miles) south from Kuala Lumpur and near Putra Jaya, Malaysia’s future administrative capital. It opened in June 1998, currently handles 25 million passengers a year and is served by all major international airlines. Kuala Lumpur’s city centre is accessible via the Kuala Lumpur–Seremban Highway/KLIA interchange and the Shah Alam/North–South Central Link Expressway (travel time – 45 minutes). Taxis must be pre-paid in the Arrivals Area at the airport; (travel time – 40 minutes). KL City Buses (tel: (800) 880 495) operates a 24-hour Express Bus Service to the Airport Bus Terminal, Hentian Duta, Kuala Lumpur city centre, which leaves every 15 minutes (luxury coach) or every hour (semi-luxury coach). The journey takes approximately one hour. Regular feeder buses travel from Hentian Duta to Lot 10 on Jalan Sultan Ismail in the city centre between 0800 and 2430 (travel time – 30 minutes). The cheapest way to travel to the city is by combined bus and train. The Stage Bus Service, which operates 0715-2230, leaves the airport every 30 minutes for Nilai KTM Station (travel time – 30 minutes). From Nilai, trains travel to Kuala Lumpur Railway Station 0644-2244 every 20-30 minutes (travel time – one hour). The Express Rail Link (ERL) is due to open 20 April 2002 and will run between Kuala Lumpur (KL Sentral) and the main airport terminal at a speed of 100mph (160km/h) (estimated travel time – 30 minutes). Airport facilities include ATMs, bureaux de change, 24-hour shopping, duty-free, restaurants, postal services, tourist information, hotel reservations, medical service, left-luggage and prayer rooms. Car hire companies include Budget and Hertz. Business facilities include executive lounges, limousine services to the city and business centres (tel: (03) 8787 2929), which provide telephone, fax, Internet, teleconferencing, postal and secretarial services.
Penang (PEN) (Bayan Lepas) is 16km (10 miles) south of Georgetown, capital of this small island off the northwest coast of the peninsula. Though not receiving as many international flights as Kuala Lumpur, there are connections from the UK via Hong Kong, Singapore or Bangkok. Airport facilities include an incoming and outgoing duty-free shop, restaurant and bar, bank/bureau de change and car hire (0900-2200).
Kota Kinabalu (BKI) is 6.5km (4 miles) from the city. Situated on the northern coast of Sabah state (the northeastern part of Borneo Island), this airport is the international gateway to East Malaysia (Sabah and Sarawak) and receives international flights from all over the world. Connections from the UK go via Singapore, Hong Kong and Kuala Lumpur. Airport facilities include bank/bureau de change facilities, restaurant and bar, all open 0900-2200.
Kuching (KCH) is 11km (7 miles) from the city. Situated in the west of Sarawak on the island of Borneo, the airport receives a limited number of international flights.
Departure tax: RM40 for international departures.
SEA: The major international ports are Georgetown (Penang), Port Kelang (for Kuala Lumpur) and, in East Malaysia (for Sabah and Sarawak), Kota Kinabalu, Lahad Datu, Sandakan, Tawau, Bintulu, Rejang and Kuching. Shipping lines with passenger services to Malaysia include Blue Funnel, P&O and Straits Shipping. Cargo/passenger lines are Austasia, Knutsen, Lykes, Neptune Orient, Orient Overseas and Straits Shipping. Star Cruises (Singapore) organises luxury cruises from Port Kelang. Other lines that offer cruises from this port include Coral Princess and Gemini. Norwegian Cruise Lines, Royal Caribbean and Seabourn Cruise Lines also call at Malaysia.
RAIL: Through services operate to and from Singapore via Kuala Lumpur and between Butterworth and Bangkok (Thailand) daily. There is also a 41-hour round trip available from the Eastern and Oriental Express, a luxury train service modelled on the famous Orient Express, which leaves from Singapore, journeys through Kuala Lumpur and heads north to Bangkok from where it returns to Singapore.
ROAD: Peninsular Malaysia is linked by good roads to Thailand and (via two causeways) to Singapore. Toll fees are levied on all highways throughout Malaysia. Road connections between the two eastern states, Sarawak and Sabah, and their neighbours on Borneo, Brunei and the Indonesian state of Kalimantan are fairly good.
Travel - Internal
Note: During major festivals (especially Hari Raya Pusa, the Chinese New Year and Hari Raya Haji), internal travel becomes extremely difficult unless tickets have been pre-booked long in advance. Domestic express bus tickets often go on sale up to two months before the festivals and sell out within one or two weeks. Even domestic flights tend to be packed during these periods. For festival dates, contact Tourism Malaysia (see Contact Addresses section).
AIR: Malaysia Airlines (MH) serves numerous commercial airports in peninsular Malaysia. In East Malaysia, Malaysia Airlines crisscrosses both Sabah and Sarawak and also flies to Brunei. Transmile Air offers discounts on domestic flights to Sabah and Sarawak.
Domestic airports: Kuala Lumpur Subang (KUL) is 22 km (14 miles) west from the city. Previously the main international airport, it is now mainly used for domestic flights. Most Malaysian states have domestic airports and plans are underway for the further development of several airports.
Departure tax: RM5.
SEA/RIVER: Coastal ferries sail frequently between Penang and Butterworth and there is a scheduled passenger service linking Port Kelang with both Sarawak and Sabah. Small rivercraft often provide the most practical means of getting about in East Malaysia, even in the towns, and they are the only way to reach the more isolated settlements (unless one has access to a helicopter). Boats may easily be chartered and river buses and taxis are plentiful.
RAIL: Malayan Railway (Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad or KTM) at Jalan Sultan Hishhamuddin, 50621 Kuala Lumpur (tel: (3) 2273 8000; fax: (3) 2273 3882; e-mail: passenger@ktmb.com.my; website: www.ktmb.com.my) operates nearly 2092km (1300 miles) of line. There are three classes of train: De Luxe or First Class (with upholstered seats), Eksekutif or Second Class (with padded leather seats) and Ekonomi or Third Class (with cushioned plastic seats). The fast daytime ‘Express Rakyat’ runs from Singapore to Butterworth, and continues on to Thailand. Express trains are modern, and some have sleeping berths and buffet cars. Some trains are air conditioned. East Malaysia has one railway line, known by travellers as the Jungle Railway, which is the main overland route for the Taman Negara National Park; it runs along the coast from Kota Kinabalu (Sabah), then inland up a steep jungle valley to the small town of Tenom. Other than this line, there are two main lines operated for a passenger service. One runs along the west coast and from Singapore which runs northwards to Kuala Lumpur and Butterworth, meeting the Thai railways at the border. The other line separates from the west coast line at the town of Gemas and takes a northeastern route to Kota Bharu and Tenom. There is also a passenger service to two of Malaysia’s seaports – Penang and Padang Besar on the west coast. The KTM Komuter, a commuter service, runs from Kuala Lumpur to Port Klang (west), Rawang (north) and Seremban (south). There are no rail services in Sarawak.
Cheap fares: Children under four travel free; children aged four to 11 pay half fare. For further information on discount fares available to passengers, contact Malayan Railway (see address details above).
Special tickets: The Malayan Railway Pass is available in 10- and 30-day tickets, giving unlimited travel on all trains through peninsular Malaysia and Singapore and can be purchased from train stations in Butterworth, Johor Bahru, Kuala Lumpur, Padang Besar, Port Kelang, Rantau Panjang, Wakaf Bharu and Singapore. However, reservations must be made in advance for seats in first-class, air-conditioned trains and a supplement is charged. Reservations may be made up to three months in advance from the Director of Commerce, Malayan Railway, Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin, Kuala Lumpur. Enquire at Tourism Malaysia for further details.
ROAD: Traffic drives on the left. Most roads in the peninsular states are paved and signs leading to the various destinations are well placed and clear. The north–south highway, spanning 890km (553 miles) from Bukit Kayu Hitam (on the Kedah–Thailand border) to Johor Bahru is now fully open to traffic since the Sultan opened the last stretch between Tapah and Gopeng. The dual carriageway will provide shorter travel times between towns. Bus: Local bus networks are extensive; there are almost 1000 routes, with regular services in and between all principal cities. Four-wheel-drive buses are used in rural areas of Sabah and Sarawak. Trishaw: Available in Penang and Malacca, these are inexpensive for short trips. Fares should be negotiated in advance. Taxi: Shared and normal taxis are a fast means of inter-town travel, but delays may be encountered whilst drivers get their passenger load before moving off. Ask drivers to turn the meter on before starting the journey. There is a 50 per cent surcharge for fares between 0000-0600 and an extra RM1 is charged for taxis booked by phone. Taxi coupons providing fixed prices to specific destinations can be purchased at the Kuala Lumpur railway station and the airport. Car hire: This is available through several agencies. Some agencies provide cars on an unlimited mileage basis. Cars with driver are also available. Documentation: An International Driving Permit is required. For UK citizens, a national driving licence is sufficient, but it has to be endorsed by the Registrar of Motor Vehicles in Malaysia.
URBAN: Parking in the centre of Kuala Lumpur and other towns is restricted to spaces for which a charge is made and a receipt is given. Public transport services in Kuala Lumpur are provided by conventional buses and by ‘Bas Mini’ fixed-route minibuses, taxis and pedi-cabs (trishaws) licensed by the Government. Bus fares vary, but the ‘Bas Mini’ rates are flat. These are used for shorter journeys, and tend to be crowded. The PUTRA Light Rail Transit (LRT) is a quick way to get around the city and provides links to the eastern and western suburbs of Kuala Lumpur. Routes and timetables are indicated in stations with an LRT logo.
TRAVEL TIMES: The following chart gives approximate travel times (in hours and minutes) from Kuala Lumpur to other major centres in Malaysia.
| Air | Road | Rail | | Ipoh | 0.30 | 2.00 | 4.30 | | Penang | 0.45 | 5.00 | 9.30 | | Alor Setar | 0.45 | 7.00 | 7.30 | | Kuantan | 0.35 | 4.00 | - | | Johor Bahru | 0.35 | 3.00 | 6.00 | | Singapore | 0.45 | 6.00 | 7.00 |
Accommodation
HOTELS: Malaysia has many hotels of luxury and economy class. Many new luxury hotels have recently been built in Kuala Lumpur. It is necessary to book well in advance, especially during school and public holidays when the Malaysians take their holidays in the popular resorts, notably Penang, Langkawi and the highlands. The more basic hotels have little in the way of modern washing or bathing facilities, often only a water trough instead of a bath or shower. There is no formal classification system. Government tax of five per cent and service charge of ten per cent are added to bills. Tips are only expected (on the basis of good service) for room service and porterage. Laundry service is available in most hotels. For further information, contact the Malaysian Association of Hotels, Jalan Ampang Utama 1/1, 1 Ampang Avenue, 68000 Ampang, Kuala Lumpur (tel: (3) 4251 8477; fax: (3) 4252 8477); e-mail: mahotel@po.jaring.my; website: www.hotels.org.my).
GOVERNMENT REST HOUSES: These are subsidised, moderately priced hotels. They are basic, but always clean and comfortable, with full facilities and usually good restaurants. As they are primarily travelling inns they tend to fill up quickly, so it is advisable to telephone and reserve a room.
CAMPING: There are camping facilities in the Taman Negara or national parks. Here jungle lodges provide tents, camp beds, pressure lamps and mosquito nets for trips into the rainforests.
YOUTH HOSTELS: Malaysia is a full member of the International Youth Hostel Federation. There are not many youth hostels, but they are very cheap. Accommodation is in dormitories and meals can be arranged. Visitors must register at the hostel from 1700-2000. Hostels are to be found in Cameron Highlands, Kuala Lumpur, Kuantan, Malacca, Penang and Port Dickson. Further details can be obtained from the Malaysian Youth Hostel Association, Kuala Lumpur International Youth Hostel, 21 Jalan Kg Attap, 50460 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (tel: (3) 2273 6870; fax: (3) 2274 1115; e-mail: myha@pd.jaring.my) or Tourism Malaysia (see Contact Addresses section).
HOMESTAY PROGRAMMES: Increasing in popularity in many states, Malaysian Homestay Programmes combine budget accommodation with the opportunity to experience typical Malaysian life. For further details, contact the Association of Homestay Programme, (tel: (3) 3263 0048; fax: (3) 3263 0049; e-mail: araitu@mapro.or.ja).
Introduction
Malaysia today is a complex and richly diverse country that spreads across a network of islands, which encompasses an eclectic collage of ethnic groups, cultures and religions. The economic and spiritual heart is the impressive capital of Kuala Lumpur on Peninsular Malaysia, while other mainland cities worth visiting include the haunting colonial beauty of Georgetown on the island of Penang and the ramshackle sprawl of Malacca in southern Malaysia. On the western and eastern coasts of Peninsular Malaysia a myriad of islands, many blessed with stunning beaches, recline in the tropical sun and to the east the East Malaysian states of Sabah and Sarawak boast their own charms, including superb beaches and unspoilt wilderness.
Kuala Lumpur
KL, as it is locally known, is Malaysia’s hub; a huge, bustling, cosmopolitan city that is the business heart of the nation. Its very ethnic diversity is part of the attraction with Malays, Chinese, Indian and European cultures melting together on the tropical streets. Often overlooked by many tourists KL has a wealth of attractions, with the voluminous Petronas Twin Towers at a height of 436m (1453ft) amongst the tallest buildings in the world. From the viewing level of the Towers the city unfolds with its old mosques and ramshackle buildings, contrasting with the gleaming skyscrapers that have sprouted as Malaysia has become one of the regional economic powerhouses. Merdeka Square is at the very heart of old Malaysia, with the stunning highlight the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, which bizarrely blending Victorian and Moorish architectural styles. The Tasek Perdana Lake Gardens are one of the city’s best known natural landmarks, a popular spot for picnics and walking. Within the gardens are Parliament House and the National Monument. The National Monument, an impressive brass sculpture, is one of the world’s largest free-standing sculptures. Close by is the National Museum, which houses many historical exhibits. The building incorporates various different Malaysian architectural styles and craftwork from different parts of the nation, making the National Museum an embodiment of many aspects of the nation. Near the railway station is the National Mosque surrounded by lawns ornamented with fountains. This modern mosque, built in 1965, gleams every bit as brightly as any of Kuala Lumpur’s skyscrapers. The main dome is moulded in the shape of an 18-point star to represent the 13 states of Malaysia and the five central Pillars of Islam. The huge main prayer hall can hold up to 10,000 worshippers, although this section of the mosque is closed to non-worshippers. Nearby is the old Chinese clan house of Chan See Yuen and the colourful Indian temple of Sri Mahamariaman. Shopping and eating are other key attractions with retail opportunities including everything from huge air-conditioned malls with bargains on many items, through to local handicrafts sold by the people who make them. KL has a smorgasbord of eating opportunities with fine dining restaurants, through to local eateries that showcase the finest culinary delicacies from all over Malaysia. Then there are the street markets, with their food stalls, where some of the best and cheapest food is to be found for the adventurous. The Friday Mosque, situated astride the confluence of the Klang and Gombak Rivers at the point where the first Europeans scrambled ashore, is the most stunning and popular sight in the city. The best time to visit is at sunset or during the muezzin’s call to prayer, which echoes around the ornate domes and palm trees, lending the mosque an air of calm amidst the skyscrapers.
Excursions: The Batu Caves lie a few miles to the north of the city. These large natural caves, reached by 272 steps, house the Hindu shrine of Lord Subramaniam. Nearby is the Museum Cave, a fascinating display of brightly coloured statues and murals from Hindu mythology. Templar Park, 22km (14 miles) north of Kuala Lumpur, is a well-preserved tract of primary rainforest, which is rich in scenic beauty. Jungle paths, swimming lagoons and waterfalls all lie within the park boundaries. Malaysia’s latest agricultural park, located at Cherakah in Shah Alam, Selangor, has a large playing area with facilities for skateboarders and rollerskaters.
The Forestry Research Institute, 15km Northwest of KL, is a genuine example of ‘Eco-tourism’ in that it is stretch of jungle that has been protected and is now being used to study how this unique eco-system works. The centre also looks at ways of sustainable development and at ways of protecting this environment. There are a number of low eco impact trails that visitors can explore.
Perak & Pangkor
Perak derives its name from the rich silver tin ore deposits once so fruitful in the region. Perak translates as ‘silver’ in the Malay language. Major towns within Perak include Ipoh, the administration centre and capital, Kuala Kangsar, the royal town and Taiping.
IPOH: Dubbed the ‘City of Millionaires’ (due to its tin mining wealth) Ipoh, Malaysia’s third largest city, offers the ghosts of its grand colonial days with the mixture of colonial and modern architecture, the best of example of the former is the Moorish and Victorian pastiche of the train station. The city centre also boasts many colonial era shops, which retain their original atmosphere today. The Kuala Gula Bird Sanctuary in Ipoh, is of great interest to all nature lovers. In addition to over 160 different species of birds, lucky visitors may get a chance to see smooth otters, long-tailed macque and ridge-back dolphins. The best time to visit is between September and December when many migratory birds arrive at the sanctuary.
Excursions: Thirty minutes drive from Ipoh, near Batu Gajah, stands the impressive Kellie's Castle. Surrounded by rubber plantations, the magnificent ruins of the unfinished castle are all that remains of Scotsman William Kellie Smith's nostalgic ambition to recreate an authentic piece of his Scottish homeland. Work halted with the sudden demise of Smith in 1926, and since his death the rumours and mystique surrounding the castle have intensified. Reputed to be haunted, the castle is also believed to possess secret rooms and tunnels, undetected to this day.
KUALA KANGSAR: Just north of Ipoh at Jalan Kuala Kangsar, Perak Tong, a limestone cave temple, houses over 40 statues of Buddha. 385 steps in a cave behind the main altar lead up to a magnificent viewpoint, from which to survey the surrounding countryside. Sam Poh Tong and Kek Lok Tong near Gunung Rapat, are impressive cave temples where statues of Buddha stand alongside magical stalactites and rock formations. Both temples have Buddhist vegetarian restaurants in the temple grounds.
Kuala Kangsar is the birthplace of the rubber industry. In 1877, nine rubber trees were first planted here and the industry was born. Three of the town's most beautiful buildings include, Istana Iskandariah, the royal palace, Istana Kenangan, the former royal palace now home to the Perek State Museum and the Ubudiah Mosque.
TAIPING: Although it may be known as the ‘Town of Everlasting Peace’, Taiping grew to fame as a raffish tin mining centre, though the importance of the industry has declined since a major slump in the 1980s. Some of the wealth from the tin mining was pumped into Taiping’s main attraction, the disused mining pools that were transformed in the late nineteenth century to become the stunning, carefully landscaped Lake Gardens. Taiping is also home to some impressive colonial architecture and the charming Ling Nam Temple, which is reputed to be the oldest Chinese temple in Perak. The more sinister history of Taiping emerges in the old prison, that was used by the Japanese in World War II, and the Allied War Cemetery, the last resting place of hundreds of victims of the Japanese invaders.
PANGKOR ISLAND: No longer is Pangkor Island, about 100km (60 miles) south of Penang Island, unspoilt and seldom-visited. Over recent years it has gained in popularity, which has brought better facilities at the expense of increasing crowds and development of the pristine environment. Since 1996, an internal air link to the island has facilitated access for tourists. Innumerable bays boast excellent sandy beaches and all kinds of watersports.
Penang & Langkawi
PENANG: The island of Penang, eulogised as the ‘Pearl of the Orient’, lies just off the northwest coast of Peninsular Malaysia. Recently a network of expanded tourist facilities has been created, which have ruined many of the island’s main beach charms. Some of the beaches that are popular with resort developers, in particular those around along Batu Feringgi on the north coast, have become blighted by jet skis, private hotel stretches of sand and various touts and hawkers. Despite this uncontrolled development to the north much of the rest of the island is still a beautiful tropical oasis of palm trees and sandy beaches, and it is also the main international gateway to northern Malaysia. It was the natural harbour that first attracted the British to Penang in the late 18th century, and the port is still one of the most important in the country today. There is a regular ferry service between the island and the town of Butterworth on the mainland and a spectacular road bridge.
GEORGETOWN: Charming Georgetown is Penang’s main settlement, a thriving hub where Malay, Chinese, Thai, Indian and European cultures merge, as does the architecture which, in the space of a few miles, takes in a British colonial style cricket pitch and a rumble of Chinese stilt houses. The main shopping is on Campbell Street and Canarvon Street. Worth visiting are Khoo Kongsi, an old Chinese clan house, Fort Cornwallis, a British 18th-century fortress, Penang Museum and Art Gallery and the many churches, temples and mosques found throughout the town. The first class laksas and unique Penang dishes are reason for visiting alone, with many meal enjoyed outside at the ubiquitous food stalls.
REST OF PENANG: Penang has more than just beaches. One of the most unusual attractions is the Snake Temple, which swarms with poisonous snakes, but their venomous threat is countered by heavily drugging them with incense. Wat Chayamangkalaram Temple contains an enormous gold-plated reclining Buddha, which at 33 metres long, is believed to be the third largest in the world. Penang Bird Park is a must for bird lovers’ and horticultural enthusiasts alike. The landscaped park in Seberang Jaya is home to over 400 species of birds. Specially designed aviaries are placed among man-made islands with beautiful waterfalls and gardens ablaze with ornamental flowers and tropical greenery. A wide variety of orchid and hibiscus can also be seen. Over 100 species of butterflies and insects can be seen in the gardens of Penang Butterfly Farm in Teluk Bahang. The farm is open daily to visitors. In the centre of the island is Penang Hill, with a 700m (2300ft) summit, where tourists who can bear the massive queues to ascend the cable car are rewarded with splendid views and jungle walks.
LANGKAWI: More than 100km (60 miles) north of Penang lie the 104 islands, many of which are just outcrops of coral, that make up Langkawi. The largest, Langkawi Island, is the only one with sophisticated tourist facilities (it has been declared a free port and duty-free shopping is available). Several international hotels and resorts have opened as the government and international developers flood into what is set to become Malaysia’s premier island beach resort. The island’s many coves, lagoons and inlets make it ideal for all kinds of watersports such as swimming, sailing, fishing and scuba diving. Horseriding facilities and golf courses are also available. Travel to Langkawi is by air from Kuala Lumpur, Penang and Alor Setar or by road and sea.
KELANTAN: Bordering Thailand in the north is the state of Kelantan, whose capital Kota Bharu is a colourful, vibrant city, very much the archetypal South East Asian border town. The beaches here are clean and unspoilt and the sea ideal for swimming, diving and fishing. The state is renowned for its many cultural festivals, some of which are unique to the region. Puja Umur (the birthday of the Sultan) is celebrated with a week-long festival, beginning with a parade in Kota Bharu. A form of art unique to Kelantan is the Ma’yong, a combination of ballet, opera, romantic drama and comedy, originally a form of court entertainment.
Central Highlands Hills Resorts
Dotted about the mountain range that runs down the spine of Malaysia are several hill resorts. All are situated more than 1400m (4500ft) above sea level and offer cool, pleasant weather after the humidity of the plain and the cities.
GENTING HIGHLANDS: Less than one hour by road from Kuala Lumpur is Genting Highlands, which boasts Malaysia’s only casino (passports required). Genting Highlands can also be reached by regular helicopter service from Kuala Lumpur. Facilities include four hotels, golf courses with a magnificent clubhouse, an artificial lake, a health and sports centre, and an indoor swimming pool.
FRASER HILL: Set in lush jungle 100km (60 miles) north of Kuala Lumpur, Fraser Hill is popular with both holidaymakers and golf enthusiasts. A wide range of other sports are available. There is also a self-contained township, self-catering bungalows and an international standard hotel.
CAMERON HIGHLANDS: Still further north, about four hours from Kuala Lumpur, are the Cameron Highlands. These are among the best-known mountain resorts in Asia, and consist of three separate townships: Brinchang, Tanah Rata and Ringlet. An international-standard hotel and many bungalows are set around a golf course in lush green surroundings. Tennis, squash, badminton, jungle walks and swimming are available. From here you can visit Gunung Brinchang at 2064m (6773ft) above sea level, the highest inhabited point in Peninsular Malaysia and therefore a magnificent viewpoint.
Negeri Sembilan & Malacca
NEGERI SEMBILAN: The state of Negeri Sembilan is located in the southwest corner of Peninsular Malaysia. It is famed throughout the region for its Minangkabau-style architecture, which reflects the influence of its first inhabitants from Sumatra.
SEREMBAN: Negeri Sembilan’s capital is 64km (39 miles) south of Kuala Lumpur. Journey time from Kuala Lumpur by car is about 30 minutes. Seremban Lake Gardens is one of the town's most attractive features, it has two beautiful lakes, one of which has a floating stage where cultural shows are performed. The State Mosque, which has nine pillars to represent the nine districts of the state, overlooks the tranquil gardens.
The Cultural Handicraft Complex at Labu Spur houses the Negeri Sembilan State Museum. Historical artefacts representative of the state and its inhabitants are on display in this museum, built entirely from wood.
PORT DICKSON: Port Dickson is on the coast, about one and a half hour’s travelling time from Kuala Lumpur and 32km (19 miles) from Seremban. Malaysians flock here from the city at weekends, but with 18km (11 miles) of beach there is always plenty of room. The bays are fine for all kinds of watersports and fishing and there are facilities for water-skiing, motor cruising and deep-sea fishing. The water quality is not always good, though, and the sea around the beaches is often too shallow for decent swimming. The only real tourist attraction apart from the beaches is the Tanjong Tuan Lighthouse, where the coastline of Indonesia across the Straits of Malacca can be made out on a clear day.
ELSEWHERE: The Fort of Raja Jumaat (a 19th-century Bugis Warrior) is 7km (4 miles) from Port Dickson, in Kota Lukut. Remains of an old royal palace and a royal burial ground can be viewed, along with the remains of the fort, built in 1847 to control the tin trade in the vicinity. Pedas Hot Springs are 30km (18 miles) south of Seremban. Visitors wanting to take the restorative waters will find bathing enclosures, dining and recreational facilities.
MALACCA: The city of Malacca may only be two hours by road south of Kuala Lumpur, but it is centuries away in ambience. Old men in fishing boats still cruise up through the centre of the modern city with the catch of the day, which can be enjoyed in the city’s excellent restaurants. River cruises that open up the city’s history are increasingly popular. Founded in the early 15th century, Malacca remains predominantly a Chinese community, although there are many reminders of periods under Portuguese, Dutch and British rule; some of these can be seen in the Malacca Museum. Architectural remains include the Cheng Hoon Teng Temple in the centre of the city, the gateway of the A Formosa Portuguese fortress, St Paul’s Church with the grave of St Xavier, the Stadthuys, the Dutch Christ Church and the Tranquerah Mosque, one of the oldest in the country. There are several international hotels in Malacca, augmented by a fully-equipped resort complex 12km (7 miles) outside the city.
JOHOR: In the southern state of Johor, Johor Bahru is Malaysia’s southernmost gateway, and also the road and rail gateway from Singapore via a 1.5km (1-mile) causeway that connects the island to Peninsular Malaysia. Places of interest in the State include Johor Lama, the seat of the Johor Sultanate after eviction from Malacca; the Kota Tinggi Waterfalls; the Ayer Hitam ceramic works; Muar, famous throughout the country for its ghazal music and trance-inducing Kuda Kepang dances; the rubber and palm-oil plantations; and Desaru, one of Johor’s newest resorts. Desaru boasts unspoilt beaches and jungle. All kinds of sports are played here, from swimming, canoeing and snorkelling to pony riding and jungle trekking. Accommodation is in Malaysian-style chalets and hotels, and campers are also welcome.
The East Coast
This part of the country contains many of the finest beaches, including some of the least spoilt in southern Asia. In effect, the whole east coast is one huge beach, backed by jungle. The region, which covers two-thirds of Peninsular Malaysia, comprises the states of Kelantan, Terengganu, Pahang and Johor, as well as the islands of Tioman and Rawa.
PAHANG - THE COAST: Kuantan, the state capital of Pahang, is fast gaining popularity as a beach resort. The region around Kuantan is also well known for village festivals and for the craft of weaving pandanus leaves into mats, hats and baskets. Woodcarving and batik are also traditional crafts in this part of the country. Telek Chempadek, just 5km (3 miles) north of Kuantan is another popular beach resort with a wide range of watersports available, including windsurfing, water-skiing and sailing. It has a good selection of restaurants along the seafront.
7km (4 miles) north of Kuantan, Besarah, an attractive fishing village, is famed for its shellcraft, batik and crafts modelled from coconuts.
Asia’s first Club Mediterranée holiday village is in Cherating, about 45km (30 miles) north of Kuantan. The beaches at Cherating are some of the finest on the east coast and conditions are particularly favourable for windsurfing.
PAHANG - THE INTERIOR: Malaysia’s answer to Loch Ness is Lake Chini, in whose waters mythological monsters are said to lurk, guarding the entrance to a legendary sunken city.
Kenong Rimba Park, located in the valley of the Sungai Kenong, is a must for adventure seekers. Activities available include cave explorations, jungle trekking, fishing and rock climbing.
In the north of the state is Malaysia’s largest national park, Taman Negara. Surrounded by the world’s oldest tropical forest (supposedly 130 million years old), the park has remained virtually untouched and is a favourite haunt for outdoor enthusiasts, especially birdwatchers. The journey to the park headquarters involves travel by train, road and a three-hour boat ride. Accommodation is mostly modest and the more comfortable lodgings are limited.
TIOMAN: The island of Tioman, in the South China Sea off the coast of Pahang, will be familiar to fans of the film South Pacific, as it was here that the film-makers found their mythical Bali Hai. The sweeping palm trees and luxuriously white beaches are still there, but fame has come at a price with a rush of development, which on one side has brought the ease of direct flights and express boats from the mainland, but also a raft of accommodations, not all of them of the same quality and aesthetic standards. Tioman is the largest of a group of 64 volcanic islands, and also the largest island on Malaysia’s east coast. The three most popular resorts are ABC, Salang and Juara. Tioman is also one of the best destinations in Malaysia for scuba diving and snorkelling. The jungle clad interior is also popular for trekking, with many swathes of jungle still unspoilt. The cross island trek from Telek to Juara is the most popular trek with no special equipment needed.
TERENGGANU: The state of Terengganu has 225km (140 miles) of white sandy beaches. Swimming and all forms of watersports are favourite pastimes. There are several turtle-breeding beaches; at Rantau Abang, the Visitor Centre can arrange for guests to watch giant turtles laying their eggs.
PERHENTIAN ISLANDS: Many Malays consider the twin islands of Perhentian Besar and Perhentian Kecil to be the two most beautiful islands in the country. They both boast pristine white beaches, crystal clear waters and are still relatively unexploited. The strict local beliefs mean that alcohol is not common and this has helped deter major companies from setting up here, leaving the islands in their natural state for those who do choose to visit. The islands are popular for scuba diving and snorkelling with easy access to reefs and good visibility.
Sabah
Separated from Peninsular Malaysia by 950km (600 miles) of the South China Sea, Sabah, on the northern tip of Borneo, can be reached by direct flights from Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. Known as ‘The Land Below The Wind’, Sabah is an adventure playground, home of the world’s oldest jungles and one of South-East Asia’s highest peaks, Mount Kinabalu. Sabah also offers the unique opportunity to see orang-utans in their natural environment.
Mount Kinabalu: The ascent to the top of one of the highest mountains in South East Asia is a magical, but not too taxing experience that can be enjoyed even by inexperienced climbers. The region also offers excellent opportunities for expeditions and technical rock climbing. The Mount Kinabalu National Park is famous for containing over 500 species of birds and over 800 species of orchids. The vast range of plant species, which include alpine meadow plants, rhododendron forests and pitcher plants make the rich flora almost unrivalled in diversity throughout the world. Poring Hot Springs, where visitors can enjoy beneficiary sulphur waters, is 43km (26 miles) northeast of the park headquarters. A canopied walkway built through the treetops, provides excellent views of the lush rainforest below. The walkway also gives visitors the chance to see Rafflesias (the world's largest flower). Overnight accommodation in the park and at the springs is available.
KOTA KINABALU: The capital and main gateway to Sabah, Kota Kinabalu does little justice to its spectacular natural surroundings. It is a new city built upon the ruins of Jesselton, which was badly damaged during the Second World War, and designed around the gold-domed State Mosque. From Signal Hill there is a good view of the city and the surrounding mountains and sea.
EXCURSIONS: Just south of Kota Kinabalu is the resort of Tanjung Aru, where the recently opened beach complex has been designed with both business traveller and holidaymaker in mind. As well as conference and meeting facilities, there is also a ferry-shuttle service into the town.
Tuaran is half an hour’s drive northeast of Kota Kinabalu. The road runs through lush valleys, forested hills and rubber plantations. The town has a good ‘Tamu’ (market).
SANDAKAN: Nearly 400km (250 miles) from Kota Kinabalu, Sandakan is the old capital of Borneo. The Sandakan Orchid House displays a rare collection of wonderful orchids and is a must for green-fingered enthusiasts. Also of interest is the Crocodile Farm, located outside Sandakan along the 7th mile Labuk Road. Over 1000 crocodiles, of varying sizes inhabit the farm at any one time. 24km (15 miles) from the town is the Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Centre, home of the ‘wild men of Borneo’, the world’s largest orang-utan population. The sanctuary is a rehabilitation centre where orang-utans reap the benefits of inhabiting virgin rainforest in a protected environment. Now one of Sabah’s top tourist attractions the centre is no flippant tourist site as it actively manages to take in injured or orphaned orang-utans and return them to the wild once they are rehabilitated. There is no guarantee of seeing an orang-utan, but they usually turn up for their twice-daily feedings.
TURTLE ISLANDS: 40km (24 miles) north of Sandakan, Pulau Selingan, Pulau Bakungan Kecil and Pulau Gulisan collectively form the Turtle Islands . Visitors get the opportunity to witness the amazing sight of Hawksbill and Green turtles coming ashore in the evening to lay their eggs. The islands can be visited all year round, but from July to October the number of turtles visiting the island increases. Accommodation is available, but highly sought after.
TENOM: The Tenom region can be reached from Kota Kinabalu by Sabah’s only railway line. A spectacular and thrilling experience, it follows the Padas River up through narrow jungle gorges in the Crocker Range. Tenom town is renowned for its style of longhouse building, unchanged in centuries, and for the traditional songs and dances performed there.
Labuan
The island of Labuan is 10km (6 miles) off the coast of Sabah, and covers an area of 98 sq km (38 sq miles). It is a duty free port and operates as Malaysia’s offshore financial centre. Excellent duty free shopping and wide expanses of white sandy beaches throughout the island make Labuan a popular tourist destination. It is also a popular destination for divers and has four established wreck diving sites. The Cement Wreck is suitable for beginners, but the Blue Water Wreck requires more advanced diving experience. It is possible to penetrate the hull of the Australian and American wrecks, but these dive sights are only accessible to qualified wreck divers with relevant experience. Religious buildings of interest on the island are the An'nur Jamek Mosque, Kwong Fook Kung Temple and Lauan Gurdwara Sahib. The mosque, a place of worship for Labuan's Muslim community, has a progressive futuristic design. The temple, constructed in 1952 is the oldest Chinese temple on the island. The Hokkien community stages a deity procession with trance-like dances and food offerings each year in March. Lauan Gurdwara Sahib, a place of worship for Labuan's Sikh community was built in 1957. The Sikh ‘Golden Temple’ in Amritsar inspired the design. The Peace Park at Layang-Layangan, commemorating World War II, is a tranquil retreat. Japanese-inspired pavilions and ponds with stone bridges are dotted throughout beautifully landscaped gardens.
PULAU PAPAN: An island only five minutes by boat from Labuan, Pulau Papan is a popular retreat for weekenders from Brunei. Attractive landscaping throughout the island and a colonial lighthouse enhance Pulau Papan's natural charm. Chalet accommodation is available; the only alternative for anyone wanting to stay overnight on the island is camping.
Sarawak
The state of Sarawak shares East Malaysia with Sabah, but is a vastly different destination than its neighbour with a greater degree of ethnic and tribal diversity leading to a more interesting culture and more varied cuisine. Most people who live in Sarawak use the intricate network of waterways to get about. Visitors are encouraged to do so too, although taxis and hire cars are available in the larger towns for those who prefer more conventional means of transport. Separated from Peninsular Malaysia by 650km (404 miles) by the South China Sea, Sarawak can be reached by direct flights from Kuala Lumpur and Singapore.
KUCHING: Situated on the banks of the River Sarawak, Kuching is a charming historic town, as well as being a gateway to a huge hinterland of dense tropical rainforest and mountain ranges. Villages on stilts still cling precariously to the river banks. Kuching has many places of interest worth visiting. A visit to the Sarawak Museum affords valuable insights into the history, wildlife and anthropology of Borneo. The Court House, built in 1847, is adorned with local art forms and is regarded as one of finest buildings in Sarawak. The Hong San Temple, built in honour of the God Kuek Seng, dates back to 1895. The Chinese community reveres Kuek Seng, who became a god 1000 years ago. It is supposed that he grants all requests from his devotees. At the heart of Kuching, the splendour of Sarawak State Mosque, with its magnificent gilt domes is a majestic sight. Situated at the Junction of Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman and the Main Bazaar, Tua Pek Kong Temple is Kuching's oldest Chinese temple, which dates back to 1876.
EXCURSIONS: Overnight excursions can be made up the Skrang River, with accommodation provided in longhouses. There are also downriver trips to Santubong, an ancient trading post on the coast.
The Bako National Park, covering an area of approximately 26 sq km (10 sq miles), has interesting wildlife and vegetation, including carnivorous plants, long-nosed monkeys and Sambar deer. Excursions are organised from Kuching.
GUNUNG MULU NATIONAL PARK: Gunung Mulu National Park, a World Heritage Site, has over 3500 different plant species and is home to an abundance of wildlife including, exotic birds and butterflies, fish and mammals. Small Borneo gibbons swinging through the trees are a common sight. The magnificent limestone caves in the park are the main tourist attraction, and include Deer Cave, Clearwater Cave and The Cave of the Winds.
NIAH CAVES: Other excursions, often via Miri, can be made to the Niah Caves, which show evidence of human existence dating back to 5000 BC. The caves are also valued for their guano and bird’s nests, the latter being used to make soup. Many of the caves – and some are more easily accessible than others – may be visited with a guide.
Sport & Activities
After hosting the 1998 Commonwealth Games, for which Malaysia invested over £300 million, sports facilities have been greatly improved throughout the country. The authorities’ initiative to present Malaysia as an international sports venue continued with an unusual bid for the 2008 Olympic Games and the recent construction of a new £44-million Formula One racing circuit in Sepang (located adjacent to Kuala Lumpur International Airport). However, it is Malaysia’s beaches and rainforests which endure as the main attraction for activity holidays. A comprehensive list of tour operators offering tailor-made package holidays is available from Tourism Malaysia (see Contact Addresses section).
Adventure sports: Sabah, located in northern Borneo, is Malaysia’s premier destination for outdoor adventure sports and there is a wide range of sporting and activity events held in the region throughout the year. For further details, contact the Sabah Tourism Promotion Corporation (tel: (88) 212 121; fax: (88) 212 075; e-mail: info@sabahtourism.com; website: www.sabahtourism.com).
Scuba diving: The tropical waters off peninsular Malaysia and Borneo offer ideal conditions for scuba diving. Water visibility is often greater than 30m (100ft). The selection below gives a brief overview of some of Malaysia’s best dive sites:
Layang Layang: Located northwest of Kota Kinabulu, off the coast of Sabah and accessible by air, this coral atoll consists of 13 coral reefs linked together. Underwater sights include an amazing array of corals, marine life and cliffs that plunge 2000m to the ocean bed.
Miri: Located north of Kuching, off the coast of Sarawak, Borneo. Popular dive sites include ‘Sea Fan Garden’, ‘Atago Maru’, a Japanese World War II shipwreck and ‘Scubasa Reef’, a shallow reef which provides refuge for migrating turtles during August each year.
Pulau Redang: Home to Malaysia’s first protected marine park, the Terengganu Marine Park, located north of Kuala Terengganu. The Pulau Redang archipelago contains nine islands. Popular sites include the ‘Mini Mount’ (good for both day and night dives), the ‘Picture Wall’ (dotted with sea fans and corals) and ‘Cathedral Arches’ (canyon network with huge arches). ‘Turtle Bay’, known for its sea turtles, is at the northern end of the island.
Pulau Sipadan: Located off the northeastern coast of Borneo, Pulau Sipadan is Malaysia’s only oceanic island. It is renowned for its wide range of rare marine species.
Pulau Tioman: Located within the Pahang Marine Parks, consisting of eight islands. One of the best dive sites is Tiger Reef, which has a particularly high number of sea fans; divers should note that currents can be very strong.
Tunku Abdul Rahman Park: Close to Kota Kinabulu (15 minutes by boat). One of the most popular sites in this area is Mamutik.
Pulau Tenggol: Popular weekend getaway for Malaysians, located south of Terengganu, accessible by air. The waters are protected by marine park status.
Pulau Paya Marine Park: Located on peninsular Malaysia, in the south of Langkawi Island (a busy tourist resort) in the north of the Malacca Straits.
Pulau Perhentian: Eastern Malaysia’s northernmost island group consisting of Perhentian Besar and Perhentian Kecil, located in the South China Sea, off the coast of Kelantan. Can be reached on a fishing-boat trip from Kuala Besut, a small fishing village on the mainland. It is rich in coral and marine life and is possibly one of the finest tropical islands in Malaysia. It is surrounded by beautiful beaches and has a tropical interor, filled with wildlife, such as monkeys, lizards, flying squirrels and butterflies. A fairly isolated region, praised by divers for the giant soft corals, large schools of pelagic fish and nocturnal shellfish.
Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park: Located in Borneo, easily accessible from Kota Kinabalu. Local marine life includes manta rays, lion fish and whale sharks (from December to April).
Labuan Island: Popular wreck-diving destination. Two wrecks from ships sunk in World War II, and one recent Malaysian wreck.
Trekking and caving: Nearly 75 per cent of Malaysia is covered in forests, of which the rainforest is reputedly the world’s oldest (130 million years). There are seven national parks and many wildlife reserves and protected areas. Many of the parks offer excellent trails for jungle trekking, particularly at Taman Negara National Park (peninsular Malaysia). The best time to visit is between February and September (dry season). Expert guides should be hired from the Wildlife Department at the Taman Negara Resort at Kuala Tahan, the park’s headquarters. Kuala Tahan is reached by a three-hour riverboat trip from Kuala Tembeling, but there are also flights from Kuala Lumpur. Treks up Gunung Tahan mountain (2187m/7174ft) are also possible; a guide is compulsory and the trip takes several days. In East Malaysia, the best treks are in Sarawak, Borneo and Gunung Mulu National Park, which is renowned amongst caving enthusiasts. The recently discovered Sarawak Chamber and the 51km (32 mile)-long Clearwater Cave (accessible by boat only) are favourite destinations. Permits for Gunung Mulu National Park must be obtained in Miri, reached either by a short flight or a couple of three-hour boat trips. Adventurous trekkers may wish to explore the Kelabit Highlands around nearby Bario, but these are quite demanding and should only be undertaken in the company of a local guide. Another famous trekking destination is the Kinabalu National Park, located in the state of Sabah, whose centrepiece, Mount Kinabulu (4101m/13,452ft), is South-East Asia’s highest peak. Despite its size, Kinabulu is very easy to climb. No skills are required, but a guide and a climbing permit (which can be bought on location) are still compulsory. The climb involves an overnight stay in one of the resthouses along the route. Due to the altitude, people with high blood pressure or heart problems should not attempt the climb.
Golf: Malaysia has nearly 250 golf courses. The locations vary from coast to tropical rainforest or the mountainous highlands. The Malaysian Open Golf Championships, held each March, attract top professionals. For further information, contact Tourism Malaysia (see Contact Addresses section).
Karate: More than 150 karate training centres offer regular training sessions under black-belt instructors six days a week. Visitors are welcome to receive free karate training for one week in any of the centres. A list can be obtained from the Chief Instructor, Karate Budokan International, Jalan Jubilee, Kuala Lumpur.
Traditional sports: Malaysia has many unusual sports, including Gasing-top spinning (called Main Gasing), which uses tops fashioned from hardwood and delicately balanced with lead. Wau-kite flying is a traditional pastime. Sepak Takraw is a game like volleyball, played with a ball made of rattan strips. Players may use their heads, knees and feet but not their hands.
Longhouse visits: Malaysian longhouses, which are common along the rivers in Sarawak and Sabah, are really entire villages housed under one single roof, inhabited by native communities. For some years now, Tourism Malaysia has been promoting these characteristic habitations to tourists who, apparently, are welcome to stay free of charge (although small gifts as a sign of appreciation are recommended). Visitors should be accompanied by a local guide who can also take them on a jungle walk.
Jungle railway: Malaysia’s central railway travels largely through areas of dense jungle. It commences near Kota Bahru and continues via Kuala Krai, Gua Musang, Kuala Lipis and Jerantut to meet the Singapore-KL railway line at Gemas. Owing to extensive road building, this itinerary may change, and travellers are advised to check with Tourism Malaysia (see Contact Addresses section).
Social Profile
Food & Drink: In multiracial Malaysia, every type of cooking from South-East Asia can be tasted. Malay food concentrates on subtleties of taste using a blend of spices, ginger, coconut milk and peanuts. Sambals (a paste of ground chilli, onion and tamarind) is often used as a side dish. Blachan (a dried shrimp paste) is used in many dishes and ikan bilis (dried anchovies) are eaten with drinks. Popular Malay dishes include satay, which consists of a variety of meats, especially chicken, barbecued on small skewers with a spicy peanut dipping sauce and a salad of cucumber, onion and compressed rice cakes. The best sauce often takes several hours to prepare to attain its subtle flavour. Gula Malacca (a firm sago pudding in palm sugar sauce) is also served in restaurants. There are many regional types of Chinese cooking including Cantonese, Peking, Hakka, Sichuan and Taiwanese. Indian food is also popular, with curries ranging from mild to very hot indeed. Vegetarian food, chutneys and Indian breads are also available. Indonesian cuisine also combines the use of dried seafoods and spiced vegetables with the Japanese method of preparation with fresh ingredients cooked to retain the natural flavour. Japanese-style seafood such as siakaiu beef (grilled at the table), tempura (deep-fried seafood) and sashimi (raw fish with salad) are excellent. Korean and Thai food are available in restaurants. Amongst Malaysia’s exotic fruits are starfruit, durian, guavas, mangos, mangosteen and pomelos. Western food is served throughout the country and includes US, Spanish, Italian and French cuisine. Kuala Lumpur has several restaurants which rival the high standards set by established Western restaurants in Singapore and Hong Kong. Table service is normal, and in Chinese restaurants chopsticks are customary. Indian and Malay food is eaten with the fingers. Set lunches, usually with four courses are excellent value for money.
Although the country is largely Islamic, alcohol is available. Local beers such as Tiger and Anchor are recommended and the famous Singapore Gin Sling. International beers are also available.
Nightlife: Kuala Lumpur has a selection of reputable nightclubs and discotheques, most belonging to the big hotels. Nightclubs generally stay open until 0500 or 0600 and usually request a cover charge which includes the first drink. Many of Kuala Lumpur’s bars have a ‘Happy Hour’, offering two drinks for the price of one, between 1700-2000 or 2100. Bintang Walk is a lively spot and has a good selection of al fresco bars and coffee shops. Penang is also lively at night, larger hotels having cocktail lounges, dining, dancing and cultural shows. There are night markets in most towns, including both Kuala Lumpur and Penang Chinatown. Malay and Chinese films often have English subtitles and there are also English films. The national lottery and Malaysia’s only casino at Genting Highlands are government approved and visitors are not supposed to gamble elsewhere. Keno and Chinese Tai Sai, roulette, baccarat, french bull and blackjack are played at the casino. Dress is relatively formal and visitors must be over 21 years of age.
Shopping: Shopping in Malaysia ranges from exclusive department stores to street markets. Bargaining is expected in the markets, unless fixed prices are displayed. Kuala Lumpur is a popular shopping destination, rivalling Singapore and Hong Kong. Suria KLCC, a shopping mall with a spectacular fountain, gardens and a beautiful piazza, houses a great selection of leading couture outlets. Star Hill and Lot 10 are popular shopping malls and there were plans underway to develop and finish an additional mall – Times Square. The islands of Labuan and Langkawi are duty-free zones. Cameras, pens, watches, cosmetics, perfume and electronic goods are available duty free throughout Malaysia. Malaysian speciality goods include pewterware, silverware and brassware; batik; jewellery; pottery and songket. Enquire at Malaysian Royal Customs and Excise about claiming cashback on duty-free goods. Shopping hours: Most shops keep their own opening hours, usually within the range of 1000-2200.
Special Events: Annual Malaysian festivals, which celebrate significant religious events and public holidays are staged throughout the year and are magnificent spectacles, bursting with vibrancy and colour. Each of the different communities has its own customs, traditions and festivals, and to list all the events would take many pages. For details of the many other festivities taking place throughout the year, contact Tourism Malaysia (see Contact Addresses section). The following are some highlights of the events taking place in Malaysi in 2003: Jan 19 Thaipusam (day of atonement observed among the Hindu community with a grand procession in Kuala Lumpur where people throw thousands of coconuts into the street), Kuala Lumpur, Selangor, Penang and Malacca. Feb 1 Federal Territory Day (day-long competitions and performances in the city’s parks), Kuala Lumpur. Feb 1-2 Chinese New Year (the Lion Dance is performed, gifts are exchanged, visits to the temples are made and children are given ang-pows – money placed in bright red envelopes), nationwide. Mar 21-23 Petronas Malaysia F1 Grand Prix, Sepang International Circuit, Selangor. Apr 12-May 10 Malaysia Water Festival (aquatic events and festivities including Catch the Duck and log walking competitions), Lumut, Perak. 18 May Kaamatan (Harvest festival celebrated by the Kadazan-Dusun people, with taipai rice wine, dancing, buffalo racing, games and festivities), Kinabalu, Sabah. Jun 1 Gawai (Harvest festival celebrated by the Ibans people), Sibu, Sarawak. Jul 4-26 Food & Fruits Fiesta (food festival), Alor Setar, Kedah. Aug 17-Sep 16 Merdeka Month Celebrations (fireworks, exhibitions, cultural shows and a parade on Aug 31 in celebration of Independence Day), Kuala Lumpur and nationwide. Oct 24 Deepavali (Malaysia’s Indian community decorate their homes with oil lamps for the Hindu ‘Festival of Lights’), nationwide. Nov 25 Hari Raya Puasa (marks the end of the Muslim fasting month. Malaysian Muslims celebrate by holding ‘open houses’ for friends and relatives), nationwide.
Social Conventions: Malaysia’s population is a mixture of diverse cultures and characters. In general, the racial groups integrate, but keep to their individual traditions and lifestyles. Malays still form more than half of the total population and lead a calm life governed by the authority of elders and a strong sense of respect and etiquette. The Indian, Pakistani and Sri Lankan members of the population originally came to Malaysia to take up positions in the civil service, police and local government departments, as well as in the new rubber plantations, but many are now among the professional classes. European influences (Dutch, British and Portuguese in particular) are also very marked in Malaysia, although the European section of the population is now small. As far as greetings are concerned, the Malaysian equivalent of ‘hello’ is the Muslim ‘peace be with you’. Malay men are addressed Encik (pronounced Enchik) with or without the name; Malay women should be called Cik (pronounced Che) if they are single and Puan if they are married. Touching the hand to the chest is a sign of respect and a relaxed wrist and gentle touch should be adopted when shaking hands. Chinese and Indians usually use Western forms of address. Hospitality is always warm, lavish and informal. When eating food by hand, only the right hand should be used. Visitors should respect religious beliefs and follow the Malaysian example, such as wearing appropriate clothing. Footwear should be taken off at the door when entering a house or temple. Dress should be informal, but not over-casual. Within towns, smoking has now become the subject of government disapproval and fines are levied in a number of public places, such as cinemas, theatres and libraries.
Tipping: Ten per cent service charge and five per cent government tax are commonly included in bills. Taxi drivers are not tipped.
Business Profile
Economy: A fully fledged ‘tiger’ economy, from the 1970s onwards Malaysia grew rapidly at around ten per cent annually before coming to a shuddering halt with the 1997 Asian financial crisis. This extraordinary economic development had been achieved through the familiar East Asian combination of a strong state allied to unfettered capitalism. The Government plays a central role in guiding the country’s economic progress – the New Development Policy was unveiled in 1991 as the country’s economic blueprint for the following 20 years. The manufacturing sector produces electronics, transport equipment, machinery steel and textiles. There are also reserves of oil and natural gas and mineral deposits of tin (of which it is a major producer), bauxite, copper, iron and gold. In the agricultural sector palm oil, of which Malaysia is the world’s leading producer, is a major export commodity. Timber production remains important although it has been limited by the introduction of conservation measures in the mid-1990s. Other cash crops include rubber (again, Malaysia is one of the world’s top producers), cocoa and pepper. Tourism dominates the service sector.
Japan is Malaysia’s largest single trading partner, followed by the USA and Singapore. Malaysia is also a member of the Pacific Rim organisation APEC (Asia-Pacific Economic Forum), which is assuming an increasingly important role in the regional economy. The essential stability of Malaysia’s financial sector meant that, although it suffered short-term damage, it was able to recover quickly. Over the last five years, Malaysia has averaged annual growth of three per cent.
Business: Suits or safari suits are acceptable for business meetings. Business visitors should remember that the Malay population is predominantly Muslim and religious customs should be respected and normal courtesies observed, eg appointments, punctuality and calling cards. Office hours: These vary between Peninsular Malaysia and East Malaysia. In general most offices are open by 0830 and close between 1600 and 1730. Almost all close for an hour between 1200 and 1400. Most close at 1200 Saturday.
Commercial Information: The following organisations can offer advice: Malaysian Trade Commission, 17 Curzon Street, London W1J 5HR, UK (tel: (020) 7499 7388; fax: (020) 7493 3199); or National Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Malaysia, 37 Jalan Kia Peng, 50450 Kuala Lumpur (tel: (3) 2141 9600; fax: (3) 2141 3775; e-mail: enquiry@nccim.org.my; website: www.nccim.org.my); or Malaysian International Chamber of Commerce and Industry (MICCI), PO Box 12921, 50792 Kuala Lumpur (tel: (3) 6201 7708; fax: (3) 6201 7705; e-mail: general@micci.com; website: www.micci.com.my); or Malaysian Industrial Development Authority (MIDA), Plaza Sentral, Jalan Stesen Sentral 5, 50470 Kuala Lumpu (tel: (3) 2267 3633; fax: (3) 2274 7970; e-mail: promotion@mida.gov.my; website: www.mida.gov.my).
Conferences/Conventions: Many conferences and conventions are held in Malaysia each year. Apart from the dedicated facilities at the Putra World Trade Centre in Kuala Lumpur, many hotels have facilities. Further information can be obtained from Tourism Malaysia, Convention Promotion Division (see Contact Addresses section).
Climate
Tropical without extremely high temperatures. Days are very warm, while nights are fairly cool. The main rainy season in the east runs between November and February, while August is the wettest period on the west coast. East Malaysia has heavy rains (November to February) in Sabah and in Sarawak. However, it is difficult to generalise about the country’s climate, as rainfall differs on the east and west coasts according to the prevailing monsoon winds (northeast or southwest).
Required clothing: Lightweight cottons and linens are worn throughout the year. Waterproofing is advisable all year.
History and Government
History: The region now known as Malaysia was first mentioned in Chinese and Sanskrit records of the seventh and eighth centuries. In subsequent centuries the area was under the influence and loose control of various Thai and Indonesian empires, including the great Sumatra-based civilisation of Sri Vijaya. This was followed in the 14th century by the Majapahit empire based in Java. Sri Vijaya and Majapahit, Bhuddist and Hindu respectively, both left a mark on the peninsula. But even by the 14th century, Islam – already well established in parts of India – was steadily spreading eastwards through the substantial trade between India and Malaya. The first Muslim empire in Malaya, based on the trading port of Malacca on the western side of the peninsula, was formed under the rule of King Parameswara in the first quarter of the 15th century. Early in the 16th century, the Portuguese moved in and, after capturing Malacca, established a number of fortified bases in the region. Sultan Mahmud, the ruler of Malacca at the time, was unable to recapture it immediately. However, his successors, who had moved to Johore on the southern tip of the Malay Peninsula, noted the arrival of the Dutch in the region at the end of the century and formed an alliance with them to expel the Portuguese in 1641.
Over the next century and a half, the Dutch steadily expanded throughout the region until the Dutch East Indies became the heart of a most prosperous colonial trading operation. Coming at the end of the 18th century, the British were relatively late arrivals to the region, but they were to play a key role following the European wars of the 1790s and, in particular, the defeat of the Netherlands by France in 1795. Rather than hand them over to the French, the Dutch passed control of some of their most valuable resources to the British in what became a series of exchanges. Gradually, during the 19th century, the British took control of the peninsula using economic pressure (particularly their monopoly of the tin trade) rather than outright military force: local rulers were permitted substantial internal autonomy provided that they posed no threat to British interests. The Federated Malay States were created as an entity in 1895, and remained under British colonial control until the Japanese invasion of 1942. After the defeat of Japan in 1945, the 11 states were once again incorporated as British Protectorates and in 1948 became the Federation of Malaya.
In the same year, communist guerrillas – the bulk of whom were ethnic Chinese – launched an armed struggle aimed at establishing an independent socialist state. 'The Emergency', as the colonial authorities dubbed it, lasted formally until 1960. However, the serious fighting was over by the mid-1950s and in 1957, Britain proceeded with its plan to grant independence to the Federation of Malaya.
In 1963 the Federation of Malaya merged with Singapore and the former British colonies of Sarawak and Sabah (North Borneo) to form Malaysia. Singapore seceded to become an independent state in its own right in 1965, leaving Malaysia in its present form. Tunku Abdul Rahman, who had taken over as premier of the federation in 1957, remained as Prime Minister of the newly expanded republic. He remained in office until 1970, when he was replaced by Tunku Abdul Razak. The dominant political organisation was the United Malay National Organisation (UMNO) which allied itself with several smaller formations to create the Barisan Nasional (NF, National Front). In 1982, the NF won the general election scheduled for that year under the new leadership of Mahathir Mohammed.
Over the last two decades, Mahathir has stamped his authority on Malaysian politics, with an increasingly autocratic style of leadership and a ruthless attitude towards political opponents and ex-subordinates. This tendency was starkly illustrated by his treatment of his former deputy and heir apparent, Anwar Ibrahim, with whom he had fallen out over aspects of Malaysia's economic policy in the wake of the 1997 Asian financial crisis. There were also stirrings within the party that Mahathir was by now an electoral liability and that a change of leadership was long overdue. Arrested on fabricated charges of homosexual behaviour and corruption, Anwar was subjected to a show trial and imprisoned for six years.
Anwar and his wife became a focus of opposition to Mahathir. Many people, including influential figures within UMNO, believed that Mahathir had finally overreached himself. The acid test came at the general election of November 1999. The NF had comfortably won every poll in the 1980s and '90s. Despite defeat in some key areas, and a constituency victory for Anwar's wife, Wan Azizah, Mahathir ran a well-judged campaign which returned the NF to office with a substantial majority. The opposition movement to Mahathir, both inside and outside the NF, was comfortably handled by the veteran premier with a mixture of repression and political manoeuvring. Now in his late 70s, he shows no sign whatever of relinquishing power and his position appears as solid as ever.
Since the 11 September 2001 terrorist attacks on the US, human rights issues have been subordinated to the campaign against militant Islam. Mahathir has made use of this to crack down on his political opponents, including the residual supporters of Anwar, as well as Malaysia’s own Islamic fringe.
Mahathir's truculence applies equally to his foreign policy. On occasion he has cut off relations with both Britain and Australia because of uncomplimentary media coverage. Though a fierce anti-communist, he established diplomatic relations with Vietnam and Malaysia's other communist neighbours in 1989, despite strong objections from Washington. He is a nationalist and a strong proponent of Asian regional solidarity, believing that East Asia should develop political clout to match its economic power. Yet Malaysia is also an active member of the Commonwealth and hosted the 1989 Commonwealth Conference in Kuala Lumpur.
Government: Malaysia has a complex federal political system, with extensive local power still in the hands of nine hereditary sultans, who elect the head of state (entitled HM the Yang di-Pertuan Agong) every five years from among their number. There are 13 states plus two ‘Federal Territories’ (Kuala Lumpur and the island of Labuan). Legislative power is in the hands of the bicameral parliament comprising the Dewan Rakyat (House of Representatives), with 192 members directly elected for a five year term, and the 70-strong Dewan Negara, or Senate, of which 40 members are appointed by the Head of State and 30 members elected by the country’s 13 regional assemblies. Executive power is held by the Prime Minister, who is formally appointed by the head of state but in practice by the leader of the largest party in the Dewan Rakpat. The Prime Minister governs with the assistance of an appointed ministerial cabinet.
Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.
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