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Nepal
General Information
Area: 147,181 sq km (56,827 sq miles).
Population: 22,367,048 (official estimate 1999).
Population Density: 152.0 per sq km.
Capital: Kathmandu. Population: 535,000 (1993).
GEOGRAPHY: Nepal is a landlocked kingdom sharing borders with Tibet to the north and northwest, and India to the west, south and east. The country can be divided into five zones: the Terai, the Siwaliks, the Mahabharat Lekh, the Midlands or Pahar and the Himalayas. The greater part of the country lies on the southern slope of the Himalayas, extending down from the highest peaks through hill country to the upper edge of the Ganges Plain. The hilly central area is crossed by the Lower Himalayas where there are eight of the highest peaks in the world, leading up to Mount Everest. Wildlife in Nepal includes tigers, leopards, gaur, elephants, buffalo, deer and rhinos.
Government: Constitutional monarchy. Head of State: King Maharajadhira Gyanendra since 2001. Head of Government: Prime Minister Lokendra Bahadur Chand since 2002.
Language: The official language is Nepali. There are many other languages, including Maithili and Bhojpuri. English is spoken in business circles and by people involved in the travel trade.
Religion: Mainly Hindu and Buddhist with a small Muslim minority.
Time: GMT + 5.45.
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz. There are frequent power cuts.
Telephone
IDD is available to all major cities. Country code: 977. Outgoing international code: 00. The Telecommunication Office, Tripureshwar, deals with telephone calls and cables. The International Telephone Office is open Mon-Thurs 0900-1400 and Fri 0900-1330. Hotels and private communication centres provide long-distance telephone services (ISD, STD).
Mobile telephone
The Nepalese mobile network uses PDC (Personal Digital Cellular System) technology, which is not compatible with GSM or other mobile services.
Fax
Services are available in most hotels, travel agencies and communications centres. The Nepal Telecommunications Corporation booth at the airport has fax facilities.
Telegram
The Central Telegraph Office offers a 24-hour international telephone and telegram service seven days a week.
Internet
ISPs include World Link (website: www.wlink.com.np). There are Internet cafes in Kathmandu, Patan and Pokhara. Internet services are also provided by hotels.
Post
Postal services are available in most centres. Make sure that letters are hand-cancelled at the post office (post boxes should not be used for important communications). The general post office in Kathmandu (near the Dharahara Tower) is open Sun-Fri 1000-1700. Poste restante services are available from 1000-1600. Express post services are also available. Main hotels will also handle post.
Press
English-language dailies available in Nepal are The Kathmandu Post and Rising Nepal. The Independent, The Telegraph and Nepal Chronicle are published weekly in English. The International Herald Tribune, Time and Newsweek can all be found in Kathmandu. Himal is a magazine published monthly, devoted to issues throughout the South Asian region. At certain times of day, there are radio and television news broadcasts in English.
BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change.
BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice):
Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov):
Passport/Visa
| | Passport Required? | Visa Required? | Return Ticket Required? | | British | Yes | Yes | No | | Australian | Yes | Yes | No | | Canadian | Yes | Yes | No | | USA | Yes | Yes | No | | OtherEU | Yes | Yes | No | | Japanese | Yes | Yes | No |
PASSPORTS: Valid passport required by all except nationals of India holding proof of identity and arriving from India. (Acceptable proofs include Voter’s Identity Card issued by the Election Commission of India or Photo Identity Card issued by the state or central government of India or Temporary Photo ID issued by the Indian Diplomatic Mission in Nepal.)
VISAS: Required by all except the following:
(a) nationals of India;
(b) transit passengers continuing their journey by the same or first connecting aircraft on the same day provided holding valid onward or return documentation and not leaving the airport.
Types of visa and cost: Tourist: single-entry £20 (valid for two months from date of arrival); multiple-entry £55 (valid for six months from date of issue) Business: applications can be made on arrival which need to be approved by the Ministry of Industry.
Note: (a) All nationals may obtain tourist visas on arrival at the airport. Two passport-size photos are required. (b) Business can be conducted on a Tourist visa for up to 30 days.
Validity: Visas are valid for up to six months from date of issue. They may be extended in Nepal at the Department of Immigration, Kathmandu (tel: 494 273 or 494 337), or the Immigration Office, Pokhara. Maximum stay in Nepal is 150 days in any calendar year. For full conditions on visa extension (including charges and conditions), contact the Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy); see Contact Addresses section.
Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy). Visas can also be obtained on arrival from the Immigration authorities at all entry points (with fees payable in US Dollars) provided travellers are in possession of valid travel documents, two passport photos and the relevant fee. Applications for Business visas must be made to the Department of Immigration (see above under Validity for address).
Application requirements: (a) One completed application form. (b) Valid passport. (c) One passport-size photo. (d) Fee (in cash, postal order or bankdraft). (e) For business visas, letter from company explaining purpose of visit, accompanying application made direct to Department of Immigration in Nepal (as above). (f) A stamped addressed envelope if applying by post.
Working days required: One; two to three weeks if applying by post.
Money
Currency: Nepalese Rupee (NRs) = 100 paisa. Notes are in denominations of NRs1000, 500, 250, 100, 50, 25, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. Coins are in denominations of NRs5, 2 and 1, and 50, 25, 10 and 5 paisa.
Note: Visitors should bear in mind that foreign visitors other than Indian nationals are required to pay their airline tickets, trekking permits and hotel bills in foreign currency.
Currency exchange: It is illegal to exchange currency with persons other than authorised dealers in foreign exchange (banks, hotels and licensed money changers). Visitors should obtain Foreign Exchange Encashment Receipts when changing currency and keep them, as these will help in many transactions, including getting visa extensions and trekking permits.
Credit & debit cards: American Express is widely accepted, with MasterCard and Visa in tourist shops, hotels, restaurants and agencies. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services which may be available.
Travellers cheques: Accepted at banks and major hotels. If trekking, it is important to bear in mind that cash is necessary. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in US Dollars or Pounds Sterling.
Currency restrictions: Import of local and Indian currency is prohibited, except for nationals of Nepal and India. Foreign currency is unlimited but must be declared. Export of local and foreign currency is limited to the amounts declared on arrival. Only ten per cent of the amount exchanged into local currency will be reconverted into foreign currency on departure and all exchange receipts must be retained.
Exchange rate indicators The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Nepalese Rupee against Sterling and the US Dollar:
| Date | May ’02 | Aug ’02 | Nov ’02 | Feb ’03 | | £1.00= | 113.35 | 117.16 | 120.98 | 120.74 | | $1.00= | 77.78 | 77.04 | 76.50 | 75.83 |
Banking hours: Banks in the Kathmandu valley are open Mon-Fri 0900-1430. In other areas, opening hours are usually Sun-Thurs 1000-1430 and Fri 1000-1200. Licensed money changers are open 12 hours a day.
Duty Free
The following goods may be imported into Nepal without incurring customs duty:
100 cigarettes or 25 cigars; 1.15l of spirits or 12 cans of beer; a reasonable amount of perfume for personal use; 15 rolls of film.
Note: (a) All baggage must be declared on arrival and departure. (b) Certain goods including cameras, videos and electronic goods may only be imported duty free if they are exported on departure. They may not be left in Nepal. (c) It is illegal to export goods over 100 years old. (d) Export certificates need to be obtained from the Department of Archaeology for the export of any metal statues, sacred paintings and similar objects.
Public Holidays
Jan 11 2003 National Unity Day. Jan 30 Martyrs’ Day. Feb 6 Vasant Panchami. Feb 19 Rashtriya Prajatantra Divas (National Democracy Day). Mar 1 Shivaratri (in honour of Lord Shiva). Mar 8 Nepalese Women’s Day. Mar 18 Holi. Apr 1 Ghode Jatra (Festival of Horses). Apr 10 Chaite Dashain. Apr 11 Ram Nawami (Birthday of Lord Ram). Apr 14 Navabarsha (New Year’s Day). May 16 Buddha Jayanti (Birthday of Lord Buddha). Aug 12 Rakshya Bandhan (Janai Purnima). Aug 13 Gai Jatra (Procession of Cows). Aug 19 Krishna Asthami (Birthday of Lord Krishna). Aug 30 Teej (Festival of Women). Sep 9 Indra Jatra (Festival of Rain God). Oct 5 Dasain (Durga Puja Festival). Oct 25 Deepawali (Festival of Lights). Nov 9 Constitution Day. Dec 29 King Birendra’s Birthday. Jan 11 2004 National Unity Day. Jan 26 Vasant Panchami. Jan 29 Martyrs’ Day. Feb 18 Shivaratri (in honour of Lord Shiva). Feb 19 Rashtriya Prajatantra Divas (National Democracy Day). Mar 6 Holi. Mar 8 Nepalese Women’s Day. Mar 20 Ghode Jatra (Festival of Horses). Mar 29 Chaite Dashain. Mar 30 Ram Nawami (Birthday of Lord Ram). Apr 14 Navabarsha (New Year’s Day). May 4 Buddha Jayanti (Birthday of Lord Buddha). Aug 30 Rakshya Bandhan (Janai Purnima). Sep 1 Gai Jatra (Procession of Cows). Sep 6 Krishna Asthami (Birthday of Lord Krishna). Sep 17 Teej (Festival of Women). Sep 27 Indra Jatra (Festival of Rain God). Oct 22 Dasain (Durga Puja Festival). Nov 9 Constitution Day. Nov 12 Deepawali (Festival of Lights). Dec 29 King Birendra’s Birthday.
Note: Some of the above are Hindu festivals, which are declared according to local astronomical observations. It is not possible to predict the exact dates of festivals occuring and the dates published are approximations. Travellers should check locally nearer the time for precise dates.
Health
| | Special Precautions | Certificate Required | | Yellow Fever | No | 1 | | Cholera | Yes | 2 | | Typhoid and Polio | 3 | N/A | | Malaria | 4 | N/A |
1: A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required of travellers coming from infected areas.
2: Following WHO guidelines issued in 1973, a cholera vaccination certificate is not a condition of entry to Nepal. However, cholera is a serious risk in this country and precautions are essential. Up-to-date advice should be sought before deciding whether these precautions should include vaccination, as medical opinion is divided over its effectiveness. For more information, see the Health appendix.
3: Typhoid is common.
4: Malaria risk, mainly in the benign vivax form, exists throughout the year in rural areas of the Terai districts of Bara, Dhanukha, Kapilvastu, Mahotari, Parsa, Rautahat, Rupendehi, Sarlahi and especially along the Indian border. The malignant falciparum form resistant to chloroquine has been reported.
Food & drink: All water should be regarded as being potentially contaminated. Water used for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should have first been boiled or otherwise sterilised. Milk is unpasteurised and should be boiled. Powdered or tinned milk is available and is advised, but make sure that it is reconstituted with pure water. Avoid dairy products which are likely to have been made from unboiled milk. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish, preferably served hot. Pork, salad and mayonnaise may carry increased risk. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled.
Other risks: High altitude sickness is a hazard for trekkers, so it is important to be in good health before travelling. Advice can be obtained from the Himalayan Rescue Association near the Kathmandu Guest House, Thamel. It is advisable, particularly when in rural areas, to carry a medical kit containing items such as rehydration mixture for the treatment of severe diarrhoea and ‘dry spray’ for cuts and bruises. Contact the Nepal Tourism Board for advice (see Contact Addresses section). Giardiasis, dysenteries and diarrhoeas are all common. Japanese encephalitis occurs in southern lowland, rural areas. Hepatitis A, B and E occur. Meningitis has been reported in some areas. There has been a sharp rise in visceral leishmaniasis, and trachoma is fairly common.
Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, see the Health appendix.
Health care: The most convenient hospital for visitor care is Patan Hospital in Lagankhel. Other hospitals include the Western Regional Hospital and the Manipal Hospital in Pokhara and the Mission Hospital in Tansen. Most hospitals have English-speaking staff and big hotels have doctors. Pharmacies in Kathmandu, mainly along New Road, offer a wide range of Western drugs at low prices. In Kathmandu, you can get certain vaccinations free of charge at the Infectious Diseases Clinic. Full medical insurance is essential.
Travel - International
AIR: Nepal’s national airline is Royal Nepal Airlines (RA). It operates flights to Bangkok, Bangalore, Calcutta, Delhi, Frankfurt/M, Hong Kong, Mumbai, Osaka, Paris, London, Shanghai and Singapore. Other airlines operating to Kathmandu include Aeroflot (Moscow), Biman Bangladesh Airlines (Dakha), China South West Airlines (Lhasa), Condor Airlines (Munich), Druk Air (Paro), Gulf Air (Abu Dhabi), Indian Airlines (Delhi, Calcutta, Varanasi), Lauda Air (Vienna), Necon Air (Patna, Varanasi), Pakistan International Airlines (Karachi), Qatar Airways (Doha), Singapore Airlines (Singapore), Thai International (Bangkok) and Transavia (Amsterdam via Sharjah).
Approximate flight times: From Kathmandu to London is 10 hours 15 minutes.
International airports: Kathmandu (KTM) (Tribhuvan) is 6.5km (4 miles) east of the city (travel time – 20 minutes). Buses and taxis to the city are available. Airport facilities include bank/bureau de change, duty-free shop, post office, refreshments and tourist information.
Departure tax: NRs700 for international flights (NRs600 within the Indian sub-continent, eg Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives, Pakistan and Sri Lanka). Children under two years are exempt.
Note: Foreign nationals must pay for airfares in foreign currency. Only Nepalese and Indian nationals are allowed to pay in Nepalese Rupees for air passage between Nepal and India.
RAIL: Two stretches of the Indian Railway Line run to the border with Nepal, where cycle-rickshaws are available for onward journeys.
ROAD: Kathmandu is connected with India and Tibet by new and picturesque highways through the fertile plains of the Terai. Bus services operate from all border points to Kathmandu. However, during the monsoon season, landslides can often make border points impassable. Visitors are permitted to drive their own cars provided they are in possession of an international carnet. For information on how to obtain an international carnet, visitors should contact their national Automobile Association. See also Travel - Internal section for required documentation.
Note: All visitors entering Nepal by land must use one of the following entry points: Belhiya (Bhairahawa), Birgunj, Dhangadi, Kakarbhitta, Mahendra Nagar and Nepalgunj, (all on the Nepal-India border); and Kodari (on the Nepal-China border). If entering overland by car, an international carnet is required (enquire at Embassy for details); see Contact Addresses section.
Travel - Internal
AIR: There is a network of domestic flights linking major towns, radiating from Kathmandu. Many of these offer spectacular views across the mountains. Royal Nepal Airlines operates an extensive range of scheduled flights to around 21 destinations in the interior parts of Nepal. Other domestic airlines, of which there are more than 18, provide regular and charter services to popular destinations. Helicopters can be chartered for various purposes. Nepal’s domestic air service is known to be punctual and reliable.
Departure tax: Nrs50 at Bhadrapur, Bharatpur, Biratnagar, Dang, Dhangadi, Janakapur, Kathmandu, Mahendranagar, Nepalgang, Pokhara, Rajbiraj, Sidharthangar and Simara. Nrs20 for all other airports.
Note: Air fares must be paid in foreign currency by foreign nationals. Only Nepalese and Indian nationals are allowed to pay in Nepalese Rupees.
RAIL: Nepal Janakpur-Jayanager Railways (NJJR) operates a freight and passenger service in the eastern Terai.
ROAD: Traffic drives on the left. The interior parts of the country are linked with a number of motorable roads. The road system is of unpredictable quality. Bus: There are regular bus services to Kathmandu from all the border points. Tickets may be booked in advance. Buses for the different parts of the country are available at the Gongabu bus terminal, which is located near Balaju. Services are operated by the Transport Corporation of Nepal and by private operators. Deluxe tourist buses are available from Kathmandu to Pokhara and Chitwan. Most of them depart at 0700 from near Thamel in the city centre. Car hire: Cars can be hired from the Hertz representative, the Avis representative or Yeti Travels, all in Kathmandu. Chauffeur-driven cars can only be hired in the Kathmandu Valley. Documentation: An International Driving Permit is valid in Nepal for 15 days after which a local licence is required. The minimum driving age is 18. A temporary licence to drive is available from local authorities on presentation of a valid national driving licence.
URBAN: There are bus services in the populous areas around Kathmandu, which include the neighbouring cities of Patan and Bhaktapur. A trolleybus route provides frequent journeys over the 11km (7-mile) Kathmandu–Bhaktapur road. Private minibuses feed the trolleybus route from nearby villages. On buses and trolleybuses belonging to the Transport Corporation of Nepal, a four-stage fare system applies, with colour-coded tickets issued by conductors. ‘Microbuses’ also operate. Taxi: Metered taxis are plentiful in Kathmandu; at night, the meter reading plus 50 per cent is standard. Private taxis are more expensive and fares should be agreed before departure. Tempos: These are metered three-wheel scooters, which work out slightly cheaper than taxis. Rickshaws: These operate throughout the city. Fares should be negotiated in advance. Bicycles and motorcycles: These can be hired from bike-shops or hotels by the hour or day. Motorcyclists require a driving licence. Cyclists should make sure they have a working bell.
Accommodation
HOTELS: Kathmandu has an increasing number of international-class hotels which are particularly busy during spring and autumn, when it is advisable to book well in advance. Comfortable hotels can also be found in Pokhara, and the Royal Chitwan National Park in the Terai Jungle. A government tax is added to bills, which varies according to the star rating of the hotel. For more information, contact the General Secretary, Hotel Association of Nepal (HAN), PO Box 2151, Kamalpokhari, Kathmandu (tel: (1) 412 705 or 410 522; fax: (1) 424 914; e-mail: info@hotelassociation.org.np; website: www.hotelassociation.org.np).
LODGES: Besides the officially recognised hotels, there are a number of lodges or hostels. In Kathmandu, these are located in the old part of the town, in the streets around the Durbar Square or in the Thamel district. Lodges are available outside the main towns, and provide suitable accommodation for mountaineers and trekkers. For a list of approved hostels and lodges, contact the Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu or one of their representatives abroad (see Contact Addresses section).
Introduction
Nepal is known as the abode of the gods. For many years a secret, unknown country, it was, in the 1950s, faced with making a leap from the 11th century to modern times. Visited first by mountaineers and trekkers, it later became the haunt of hippies. In 1989, restrictions barring several areas to tourists were lifted.
The Nepalese Government has set aside more than 35 per cent of the total area of the country as natural sanctuaries. There are now nine National Parks and three wildlife reserves, located both in the mountainous zones as well as in the tropical plains. The Terai lowlands in the south form the richest habitat in the country. Five protected areas are located in the region and many species of wildlife, including the rare Royal Bengal tiger and leopard, can be observed.
Kathmandu
Kathmandu, the capital and also the cultural, commercial and business hub of the Kingdom, is a magical place. In the centre is Durbar Square where there is a wonderful collection of temples and shrines, both Buddhist and Hindu. They are generally built in the pagoda style with a mass of intricate exterior carving. The old Royal Palace is in the square, as is the Statue of Hanuman the Monkey God, clad in a red cloak. Here also is the house of the living goddess – the Kumari. A few kilometres from Kathmandu is the hugely impressive Bodnath Stupa. It has become a centre of Tibetan exile culture and is a good place to buy Tibetan handicrafts and artefacts. Climbing upwards from the city one can reach the famous Buddhist stupa of Swayambhunath, popularly known as the Monkey Temple. There are a great many steps leading up to the temple, which is frequented by an even greater number of monkeys. The monkeys should be treated with some caution since their behaviour can be unpredictable. The monkey temple is noted for its large staring eyes. There are also a number of monasteries. Respect should be shown for local sensitivities when visiting religious sites or temples.
EXCURSIONS: Just 5km (3 miles) west of the city, below the Nagarjun Forest, are the Balaju Water Gardens, with a reclining statue of Lord Vishnu and a 22-headed seadragon fountain. Around 19km (12 miles) south of Kathmandu, and accessible by taxi, are the Godavari Royal Botanical Gardens housing trees, shrubs and beautiful orchids in an idyllic setting.
The Kathmandu Valley
BHAKTAPUR: Kathmandu was once one of three equal cities, the other two being Patan and Bhaktapur. Bhaktapur (also known as the ‘temple city’) is located some 12km (7.5 miles) from Kathmandu in the eastern part of the valley. The Kathmandu Valley’s rich cultural and natural heritage has prompted UNESCO to list seven World Heritage Sites in the area. The National Art Gallery, located in the old Malla Palace, has unusual, colourful animal paintings on the second floor which are worth a look. Other museums in Bhaktapur are the National Woodworking Museum, showing fine examples of Newari woodcarving (for which the city is renowned), and the Brass and Bronze Museum, both in Dattatreya Square.
PATAN: Patan is located at the southern end of the Kathmandu Valley and is famous for its bronze and silverware. The city contains many ancient historic and artistic landmarks, including Patan Durbar Square (also the location for the interesting Patan Museum), Krishna Mandir, the Royal Bath, the Kumbheshwor Temple and the Golden Temple. Patan has the Jawalakhel Zoo, housing exotic South Asian animals.
ELSEWHERE: There are shrines for every purpose in the valley, such as the Shrine of Ganesh the Elephant God, reputed to bring good luck. There are four Ganesh temples in the valley, each a masterpiece of Nepalese architecture – one in Kathmandu’s Durbar Square, one in Chabahil, one in Chobar and one near Bhaktapur. Lumbini, being the birthplace of Lord Buddha, is one of the world’s most important pilgrimage sites.
The Royal Chitwan National Park, Nepal’s first national park, is a jungle overflowing with wildlife. There are many lodges here offering visitor accommodation, canoeing, white-water rafting and elephant rides. Nagarkot Village, situated on rice steppes in magnificent countryside, provides spectacular views of Mount Everest, mist permitting. The hill town of Gorkha is the ancestral home of the Shah Dynasty and residence of the original Gurkha soldiers. There is a lively bazaar and the Royal Trek to Pokhara begins here. The secluded town of Pokhara lies 200km (125 miles) west of Kathmandu in the centre of Nepal on Lake Phewa. No other place in the world commands such a view of the Himalayas. It is a starting point for mountaineers and trekkers, and was at one time the home of JRR Tolkien.
The Mountains
One of the principal reasons for visiting Nepal must be either to see or to climb the mountains, especially Mount Everest. Located in Sagarmatha National Park in the Khumbu region bordering Tibet, the mountain’s appropriate Nepalese name is Sagarmatha (Head of the Sky). The Sherpas and Tibetans worship it as Chomolongma (Mother Goddess of the Earth). At an altitude of 8848m (29,022ft), Everest is the world’s highest peak and has been opened for commercial mountaineering for decades. It is part of the Great Himalayan Range, which stretches for some 800km (500 miles) and which includes a further eight peaks above 8000m (26,240ft). The countryside offers an astonishingly varied topography as the snowy mountain peaks give way to intricately green terraced hills, scenic rivers and tropical jungles in the interior.
For walkers and trekkers, Nepal is a true paradise: the picturesque hamlets and mountain villages are linked by hundreds of trails that have been used for centuries, with little change noticeable even today. The practicalities for trekking are now easy to arrange (see Sport & Activities section for further details). Numerous temples and Buddhist shrines can be also be discovered en route and visitors should make sure that, when visiting them, they stick to the proper religious protocol (see also Social Conventions in the Social Profile section).
Sport & Activities
Trekking: The trekking season is generally from September to May, but the best periods are October to December and March to April. The countryside is mostly rugged and the trails are loose, but trekking is by far the best way to enjoy Nepal’s spectacular landscape. Different types of trips with varying degrees of difficulty can be arranged. Some foreign travel agencies can book trekking packages in advance in collaboration with the Nepalese trekking agencies. In Kathmandu, there are many local officially registered trekking agencies which can provide a fully organised trek, complete with porters, guide, cook, food tents, sleeping bags, mattresses, transport to and from the starting and finishing points, flight arrangements, permits and insurance. They also provide participants with a choice of itineraries.
Trekking formalities: As of July 1999, trekking permits are no longer required for the general trekking areas designated by the Department of Immigration (such as the Everest, the Annapurna, the Langtang and Rara). For all other areas, a permit is still required and can be obtained from the Department of Immigration located at New Baneshwar, Kathmandu (see Passport/Visa section for further details) or trekking agencies and tour operators. Trekking to Dolpa, Kanchanjunga, Makalu and Upper Mustang can only be undertaken through a registered trekking agency. Entrance fees are levied for the national park areas and wildlife reserves; these range from NRs500 to NRs2000 per person per day. Children under ten are exempt. Higher fees are payable for filming and helicopter landing permits. Further information can be obtained from the Nepal Tourism Board (see Contact Addresses section).
Trekking advice: The Nepal Tourism Board gives the following advice to trekkers: use authorised guides and porters only; be careful with matches around wooded or grassy areas as forest fires can cause serious damage; be economical with all fuel, especially local firewood (campfires are not recommended); prioritise tour companies and lodges which do not use firewood; trekkers are stictly forbidden to cut any green forest reserve or kill any wildlife; use washing and toilet facilities provided or, if none are available, make sure to be at least 30 metres away from any water source; use biodegradable items as much as possible; when visiting temples or Buddhist shrines, respect local religious customs (see Social Conventions in Social Profile section); take necessary precautions when suffering from altitude sickness (for details, see the Health section).
Note: In the past, the authorities have discouraged women from trekking on their own. Some Nepalese trekking agencies, however, are now keen to provide a service for female trekkers who can also hire female guides and porters.
Pony treks: Ponies have been a means of transport for people and materials for centuries in Nepal and are today used extensively for trekking. Pony treks follow nearly the same routes as normal treks and are offered mostly in the western region around Pokhara, as well as in the hinterlands of Dolpo and Lo Manthang.
Scenic flights: Most of the domestic airlines arrange flights in light aircraft over Mount Everest. Flights are also available from Pokhara and other locations west of the capital, flying over the spectacular Annapurna range.
Mountaineering: To scale any of the mountain peaks in Nepal, climbing permits are required. They can be obtained from the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, Mountaineering Section (MoCTCA) (tel: (1) 247 037 or 256 228; fax: (1) 227 281; e-mail: tourism@mail.com.np) or from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) (tel: (1) 434 525; fax: (1) 434 578; e-mail: office@nma.com.np; website: www.nma.com.np). Further information can also be obtained from the Nepal Tourism Board (see Contact Addresses section).
River rafting: As of July 1999, rafting permits are no longer required for the general areas; however, to raft the Himalayan rivers, a permit must be obtained from the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation (tel: (1) 247 041; fax: (1) 434 578).
Golf: The popularity of golf is on the increase in Nepal, which has a total of four golf courses, two of which are located in Kathmandu (the Til Ganga Golf Course and the Gokarna Golf Course). The other two are the Fulbari Resort Golf Course and the Himalayan Golf Course, both located in Pokhara. For further information, contact the Nepal Tourism Board (see Contact Addresses section).
Adventure sports: The tourist potential of adventure sports has not escaped the Nepalese authorities, and the Nepal Tourism Board is now promoting a range of high-adrenalin activities that can be pursued in the country’s spectacular landscapes. Ballooning and hang-gliding are among the newest additions, as Kathmandu has just opened its skies for commercial ballooning, which does provide the opportunity to get excellent aerial views of the city and its panoramic surroundings. Trips over Mount Everest are rare, but also possible. Hang-gliding, which uses an ultra-light, one-person glider system, is popular in Pokhara and in the Langtang region. Bungee jumping and canyoning are also popular. Paragliding and power paragliding are available in Pokhara.
The Nepal Yeti: The existence of the famous Nepal yeti, a giant, gorilla-sized hairy snowman that eats yaks and sheep, remains strongly questionable. Only about a dozen people, including the father of Tenzing Norgay (the first Sherpa to conquer Mount Everest), claim to have seen it. Popular myth recounts that those who did spot the creature got sick and died within a few days. For Yeti enthusiasts wishing to try their luck, the abominable snowman is said to make random appearances around the Khumbu region (in the foothills of Mount Everest).
Social Profile
Food & Drink: Despite its isolation and the variety of its local produce, Nepal has not developed a distinctive style of cooking. Food consists, more often than not, of Dal Bhat – lentils and rice. An exception is Newar cuisine, which can be very elaborate and spicy. Rice is the staple food. Dishes include dal (lentil soup), spiced vegetables, chapatis and tsampa (eaten by the hill people), which is a raw grain, ground and mixed with milk, tea or water. Sweets and spicy snacks include jelabi, laddus and mukdals. Regional dishes include gurr, a Sherpa dish of raw potatoes, pounded with spices, then grilled like pancakes on a hot, flat stone. Tibetan cooking includes thukba (thick soup) and momos (fried or boiled, stuffed dumplings). Meat includes goat, pork, chicken or buffalo, but beef is forbidden. There is a wide selection of restaurants in Kathmandu and Pokhara, although elsewhere the choice is limited. A 12 per cent government tax is added to bills.
The national drink is chiya (tea brewed with milk, sugar and spices; in the mountains it is salted with yak butter). Another popular mountain drink is chang (beer made from fermented barley, maize, rye or millet). Arak (potato alcohol) and raksi (wheat or rice spirit) are also drunk. Nepalese beer is available, as is good-quality local rum, vodka and gin. Local whisky is not so palatable, but imported varieties are widely available.
Nightlife: Kathmandu has a few cinemas featuring mainly Indian films. For Western films, see the programmes of the European and US cultural centres. Most people are asleep by 2200. Nightlife is fairly limited; a few temples and restaurants offer entertainment and some tourist hotels stage Nepalese folk dances and musical shows. There are casinos with baccarat, chemin de fer and roulette, open 24 hours a day, every day, at some five-star hotels in Kathmandu.
Shopping: There are bargains for those careful to avoid fakes and the badly made souvenirs sold by unscrupulous traders. Popular buys include locally made clothes such as lopsided topis (caps), knitted mittens and socks, Tibetan dresses, woven shawls, Tibetan multicoloured jackets and men’s diagonally fastened shirts; and pashmina (fine goat’s-wool blankets), khukri (the national knife), saranghi (a small, four-stringed viola played with a horse-hair bow), Tibetan tea bowls, papier mâché dance masks, Buddhist statuettes and filigree ornaments, bamboo flutes and other folk objects. Shopping hours: Sun-Fri 1000-2000 (some shops stay open on Saturday and holidays).
Special Events: Nepalese festivals fall into several categories. Most are performed in honour of the gods and goddesses, some mark the seasons or agricultural cycles, and others are simply family celebrations. The usual form of celebration is to take ritual baths in rivers or lakes, visit temples to offer worship, and feasting and ritual fasting. The festivals in Kathmandu Valley are the most rich and spectacular. May 2003 sees the end of the year-long Mount Everest Golden Jubilee Celebrations, with outdoor events such as white water rafting, climbing, moutain biking etc. For a list of special events and festivals in Nepal, send a stamped, self-addressed envelope to the Embassy (see Contact Addresses section).
Social Conventions: As a foreign visitor, one must be careful to respect local customs in order not to cause offence. The following are some local conventions it is advisable to adhere to: never step over the feet of a person, always walk round; never offer food and drink which is ‘polluted’, in other words, food that you have tasted or bitten; never offer or accept anything with the left hand, use the right or both hands. It is rude to point at a person or statue with a finger (or even with a foot). Shoes and footwear should be removed when entering houses or shrines. Kitchens and eating areas of houses should also not be entered with footwear, as the hearth of a home is sacred. Do not stand in front of a person who is eating as this means your feet will be next to his food; squat or sit by his side. Local Chorten are built to pacify local demons or dead persons and should be passed by in a clockwise direction, as should temples; the earth and universe revolve in this direction. Small flat stones with inscriptions and supplications next to the Chorten should not be removed as souvenirs; this is considered sacrilege by the Nepalese. Avoid touching a Nepalese dressed all in white; his dress signifies a death in the family. Shaking hands is not a common form of greeting; the normal greeting is to press the palms together in a prayer-like gesture. A gift given to a host or hostess will probably be laid aside unopened; to open a parcel in the presence of a guest is considered uncivil. Casual wear is suitable except for the most formal meetings or social occasions. Bikinis, shorts, bare shoulders and backs may not be appreciated. Men only remove their shirts when bathing. Overt public displays of affection, especially near religious places, are inappropriate. Nepalese cities are generally safe, but take sensible precautions with personal possessions. Photography: Always ask permission first. In general, it is allowed outside temples and at festivals, but not at religious ceremonies or inside temples; however, there is no hard and fast rule and the only way to be sure of not giving offence is to ask first and accept the answer. Tipping: Only usual in tourist hotels and restaurants. Taxi drivers need only be tipped when they have been particularly helpful. Ten per cent is sufficient for all three services. Elsewhere tipping should be avoided.
Business Profile
Economy: Nepal is one of the world’s least developed countries, with one of the lowest per capita GDP (around US$200 per annum). Although little of the land can be cultivated, 90 per cent of the working population finds employment in agriculture and forestry. Foodstuffs and live animals provide about 30 per cent of Nepal’s export earnings. The principal crops are maize, rice, barley, wheat, sugar cane, potatoes and fruit. The manufacturing sector is very small and concentrated in light industries such as construction materials, food processing, textiles and carpet-making (the latter being an important export earner).
The country has a considerable hydroelectric potential which would save Nepal from having to import much of its energy requirements, but the sector is as yet underdeveloped. There is some mining of mica and small quantities of lignite, copper, coal and iron ore. The main service industry, tourism, has gone into decline since the late 1990s. In 2001, Nepal recorded growth of just two per cent, the lowest figure for over a decade. The country runs a large trade deficit and relies on substantial amounts of foreign aid, especially food aid. (International donors provide about 30 per cent of the Government’s budget.) India is the main trading partner, although following the 1989/90 dispute which led to the closure of the border between the two countries, Nepal has actively pursued trade links elsewhere. Agreements have also been signed with several other governments, of which that with China is the most important.
Nepal is a member of the Asian Development Bank and the Colombo Plan, both of which aim to promote regional economic co-operation. In addition to its remote, inaccessible location and poor infrastructure, political instability within Nepal’s ruling circles and the ongoing Maoist insurgency also serve to deter potential investors.
Business: Tropical-weight suits or shirt and tie are recommended. Best time to visit is October to May. Government office hours: Kathmandu Valley: Mon-Fri 0900-1700 (winter), 0900-1600 (summer). Other areas: Sun-Fri 1000-1700 (winter), 1000-1600 (summer). Private office hours: Sun-Fri 0930-1700.
Commercial Information: The following organisations can offer advice: Nepal Chamber of Commerce, PO Box 198, Kantipath, Kathmandu (tel: (1) 222 890; fax: (1) 229 998; e-mail: chamber@wlink.com.np); or Federation of Nepalese Chambers of Commerce and Industry, PO Box 269, Pachali Shahid Shukra, Milan Marg, Teku, Kathmandu (tel: (1) 262 218 or 262 061; fax: (1) 261 022; e-mail: fncci@mos.com.np; website: www.fncci.org); or Nepal-Britain Chamber of Commerce & Industry, British Embassy Premises, Lainchaur, Kathmandu (tel: (1) 418 137 or 410 583; fax: (1) 418 137; e-mail: info@nbcci.org.np; website: www.nbcci.org.np).
Conferences/Conventions: The following organisation can organise these events: Nepal Incentive and Convention Association, PO Box 11034, Kathmandu (tel: (1) 494 411; fax: (1) 473 696; e-mail: nica@mice.mos.com.np; website: www.nica.org.np).
Climate
Nepal’s weather is generally predictable and pleasant. There are four climatic seasons: March–May (spring), June–August (summer), September–November (autumn) and December–February (winter). The monsoon is approximately from the end of June to the middle of September. About 80 per cent of the rain falls during that period, so the remainder of the year is dry. Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons; winter temperatures drop to freezing with a high level of snowfall in the mountains. Summer and late spring temperatures range from 28ºC (83ºF) in the hill regions to more than 40ºC (104ºF) in the Terai. In winter, average maximum and minimum temperatures in the Terai range from a brisk 7ºC (45ºF) to a mild 23ºC (74ºF). The central valleys experience a minimum temperature often falling bellow freezing point and a chilly 12ºC (54ºF) maximum. Much colder temperatures prevail at higher elevations. The Kathmandu Valley, at an altitude of 1310m (4297ft), has a mild climate, ranging from 19-27ºC (67-81ºF) in summer, and 2-20ºC (36-68ºF) in winter.
Required clothing: Lightweight and tropical clothes with umbrella are advised for June to August. Between October and March, lightweight clothes are worn in Kathmandu, with a coat for evenings and warm clothing for the mountains.
History and Government
History: Nepal was created from an amalgam of small principalities in 1768 under King Prithvi Narayan Shah. Under the control of a hereditary king, Nepal then became a ‘buffer state’ between the British empire and the territories to the north. The main instrument of British rule from the mid-19th century onwards was a hereditary prime minister drawn from the Rana family. The country became formally independent in 1923, but it was not until 1947 (the year of Indian independence) and the total withdrawal of the British from the region that Nepal achieved genuine independence. In 1951, the Ranas, who were still in power, were overthrown in a coup organised by the Nepali Congress, and a hereditary monarchy was restored under King Tribhuvan.
Four years later he was succeeded by his son, King Mahendra. In 1959 Mahendra established a parliamentary constitution, and the ensuing elections were won by the Nepali Congress (led by B P Koirala) which had played a key role in the re-establishment of the monarchy. A year later, however, a royal coup led to the banning of all political parties and the establishment of a constitution based on the traditional village councils (the Panchayat system). Mahendra ruled until his death in 1972 when he was succeeded by his son Birendra.
Birendra persevered with the Panchayat system, bolstered initially by the result of a referendum which gave a narrow majority in favour of its continued use. In the face of substantial and growing opposition, which increased steadily throughout the 1980s, Birendra resorted to a mix of repression, censorship and cosmetic administrative reforms to defuse the situation. In 1986, a member of the minority Newari community, Marich Man Singh Shrestha, became Prime Minister for the first time. Then, in 1990, growing public unrest forced the King to accept political parties and introduce a draft constitution allowing for direct elections to a bicameral parliament.
The first two polls under the new system, held in 1991 and 1994, were won by the Congress Party (linked to the Indian party of the same name) and the United Marxist-Leninist Party (UML) respectively. Both parties are rife with factional infighting with the result that Nepal lacked a truly stable government throughout the 1990s. The Congress Party was returned to office once again at the most recent poll in May 1999. Since then Nepal has been consumed by more dramatic events.
The Maoist-inspired Nepalese Communist Party pulled out of constitutional politics in 1996 and launched an armed struggle, roughly akin to the campaign conducted by the Peruvian movement Sendero Luminoso. The guerrillas have attracted large-scale support from the impoverished peasantry and have over 10,000 personnel under arms.
In June 2001, the monarchy, the bedrock of the Nepali state, almost self-destructed through a bizarre and bloody incident when the heir apparent to the throne, Crown Prince Dipendra, went berserk in the royal palace and murdered several members of his immediate family, including King Birendra, before committing suicide. The senior remaining Royal, Gyanenda, assumed the throne. The new monarch lacked the popularity of his predecessor amongst ordinary Nepalese and, along with his government, faced some formidable problems, including the Maoist insurgency, a squabbling parliament and a very weak economy.
He also inherited a new Prime Minister, Sher Bahadur Deuba, after his predecessor, the deeply unpopular Girija Prasad Koirala was forced out of office. By late 2002, there had been little improvement on any front. The insurgency has spread to the capital: the guerrillas now operate in every part of the country. And the collapse of the tourist sector continues to undermine the economy as a whole. In October 2002, Gyanendra sacked premier Deuba and the Cabinet. He assumed some executive powers himself and appointed a new Prime Minister, Lokendra Bahadur Chand, who is seen as a close ally of the monarch. National elections due for mid-November have been postponed.
Nepal has few immediate problems abroad. Relations with India, which reached crisis point during the mid-1990s when the Indians imposed a trade embargo, have since improved. Outstanding border disputes have been settled (as with the Makhali River basin) or are in abeyance. Relations with Nepal’s other large neighbour, China, have also been good. Nepal is still coping with up to 100,000 refugees who crossed the border from its third immediate neighbour, Bhutan, to escape political strife in their own country. But all of Nepal’s neighbours are concerned about the consequences of the widening insurgency and the possible fall-out.
Government: Nepal is a constitutional monarchy. Although more power has been vested in the monarch than is customary under such a system, the main centre of legislative and executive power is the bicameral parliament comprising the 205-seat Pratinidhi Sabha (House of the States), whose members are directly elected to serve a five-year term, and the 60-seat Rashtriya Sabha (House of States).
Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.
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