Peru Overview Country Overview Peru is a large, mountainous country on the Pacific coast of South America. It has borders with Ecuador, Colombia, Brazil, Bolivia, Chile and the Pacific Ocean. The Sierra contains the Andes, with peaks of over 6000m (20,000ft). The Selva, an area of fertile, subtropical uplands, lies between the Andes and the jungles of eastern Peru. Peru offers diversity: history, archaeology, sports, beaches, mountains, medicinal springs, nature, fantastic landscapes, friendly people and music. Tumbes and Piura are the most northerly Peruvian coastal departments and are major beach, surfing, sporting and deep-sea fishing centres. Lima, the capital, is an ancient Spanish city founded by Francisco Pizarro in 1535 and known as the ‘City of Kings’. The city’s splendid museums, galleries and monuments are juxtaposed with modern suburbs. Cusco, situated 3360m (11,024ft) above sea level, was once the capital of the Inca Empire. Remains of the granite stone walls of the Inca Palace and temples can still be seen. Peru’s most famous archaeological site is Machu Picchu, the ‘Lost City of the Incas’, and the final destination of the famous three-day Inca Trail. Ceviche is a local speciality (uncooked fish marinated in lemon juice and hot pepper, served with corn-on-the-cob, potatoes and onions). There are many bars, pubs, discotheques and casinos in the major towns and tourist resorts. General Information Area: 1,285,216 sq km (496,225 sq miles). Population: 26,090,000 (2001). Population Density: 20.3 per sq km. Capital: Lima. Population: 7,497,000 (2000). GEOGRAPHY: Peru is a large, mountainous country on the Pacific coast of South America. It has borders with Ecuador and Colombia to the north, Brazil and Bolivia to the east, and Chile to the south. The Pacific Ocean lies to the west. There are three natural zones, running roughly north to south: Costa (Coast), Sierra (the Highlands) and Selva (Amazonian rain forest). The Costa region, which contains Lima (the capital) is a narrow coastal plain consisting of large tracts of desert broken by fertile valleys. The cotton, sugar and rice plantations and most of the so-far exploited oil fields lie in this area. The Sierra contains the Andes, with peaks over 6000m (20,000ft), most of the country’s mineral resources (silver, zinc, lead, copper and gold) and the greater part of its livestock. The Selva, an area of fertile, subtropical uplands, lies between the Andes and the border with Brazil. Sections of a proposed international highway are at present being built through it, with some sections already in use. The Amazonian jungle has vast natural resources. The absence of land communications, however, left the area largely uncharted until full-scale oil exploration began in 1973. The population is largely Indian and Mestizo with a noticeable influence from European (mainly Spanish), Chinese and African settlers. Government: Republic. Gained independence from Spain in 1824, having declared it in 1821. Head of State: President Alejandro Toledo since 2001. Language: Spanish and Quechua are the official languages. Aymará is spoken in some areas of the department of Puno. Many other dialects exist in the jungle regions. English is spoken in major tourist areas. Religion: Eighty-nine per cent Roman Catholic, seven per cent Evangelical and four per cent other denominations. Time: GMT - 5. Electricity: 220 volts AC, 60Hz. Communications:   Telephone IDD is available. Country code: 51. Outgoing international code: 00. City code for Amazonas: 44, Arequipa: 54, Ayacucho: 64, Cajamarca: 44, Chiclayo: 74, Cusco: 84, Huaraz: 44, Ica: 34, Iquitos: 94, Lima: 1, Piura: 74, Puerto Maldonado: 84, Puno: 54, Tacna: 54, Tarapoto: 94, Trujillo: 44 and Tumbes: 74. Direct calls are possible from public phones. Telephone cards are available in the main cities. Cellular phones can be rented in Lima and the main cities. Mobile telephone GSM 900 network operated by TIM since January 2001 (website: www.tim.com.pe). Fax Telefónica del Peru offers a fax service throughout the country. Small public booths and services are found in commercial areas. The majority of hotels in Lima and the main cities also have facilities. Internet Public Internet booths and Internet cafes are widely available in the main cities. Telegram Facilities are available at Lima and main hotels (for guests), with services run by Telefónica del Peru. Their offices are at Pasaje Piura 25, Lima and are open Mon-Sat 0800-2000, Sun 0800-1400. Post Airmail to Western Europe takes up to one week. Postal facilities are limited outside Lima. First-class airmail from Europe or North America addressed to PO boxes in Peru usually takes four days, but may be subject to delay. The main post office (Correo Central de Lima) is near the Plaza de Armas. Press Newspapers are in Spanish. Morning dailies include El Comercio, Expreso, Gestión, La República and El Bocón. The English-language monthly, The Lima Times, is available in main hotels and bookstores, as are major international newspapers and magazines. BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change. BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice): MHz 17.79 15.19 12.10 5.975 Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov): MHz 13.79 9.455 6.130 5.995 Passport/Visa   Passport Required? Visa Required? Return Ticket Required? British Yes 1 Yes Australian Yes 1 Yes Canadian Yes 1 Yes USA Yes 1 Yes OtherEU Yes 1 Yes Japanese Yes 1 Yes PASSPORTS: Valid passport required by all except nationals of Bolivia, Chile and Ecuador entering certain regions of Peru. Citizens of these countries are advised to contact their nearest Peruvian Consulate before travelling. VISAS: Required by all except the following: (a) 1. nationals of countries shown in the chart above travelling as tourists for stays of up to 90 days; (b) nationals of Andorra, Antigua & Barbuda, Argentina, Bahamas, Barbados, Belize, Bolivia, Brazil, Brunei, Chile, Colombia, Cook Islands, Costa Rica, Dominica, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, El Salvador, Federated States of Micronesia, Fiji, Grenada, Guatemala, Guyana, Haiti, Honduras, Hong Kong (SAR), Iceland, Indonesia, Israel, Jamaica, Kiribati, Korea (Rep), Liechtenstein, Malaysia, Malta, Marshall Islands, Mexico, Monaco, Nauru, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Niue, Norway, Palau, Panama, Papua New Guinea, Paraguay, Philippines, St Kitts & Nevis, St Lucia, St Vincent & the Grenadines, Samoa, San Marino, Singapore, Solomon Islands, South Africa, Surinam, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, Tonga, Trinidad & Tobago, Tuvalu, Uruguay, Vanuatu, Vatican City and Venezuela, provided travelling as tourists, for stays of up to 90 days; (c) transit passengers continuing their journey by the same or first connecting aircraft within 48 hours provided holding valid onward or return documentation and not leaving the airport. Note: (a) Nationals of Bangladesh, Cuba, China, Iran, Iraq, Pakistan and Sri Lanka require special authorisation from the Immigration Office in Lima to obtain a visa. (b) All visitors must hold return tickets or letter of guarantee from travel agency and sufficient funds for their stay. Types of visa and cost: Tourist: £9.60. Business: £21.60. Costs are subject to change according to exchange rates. Validity: Up to 90 days. Note: A Business visa is required for all nationals if the purpose of the visit is business. Any business-related unpaid work can be made on a tourist visa. Upon arrival in Peru, the Business visa holder must register at the Dirección General de Contribuciones for taxation purposes. Business visa holders can remain in Peru for 90 days. If wishing to extend the visit, an application must be lodged with the Dirección General de Migraciones. Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy); see Contact Addresses section for details. Application requirements: (a) Valid passport. (b) Return or through ticket to show the visitor will be leaving Peru. (c) Two passport-size, colour photos. (d) Fee. (e) Two completed application forms. (f) Proof of economic solvency, such as latest bank statement. (g) For Business visa, a company letter specifying the reason for the trip and the length of stay. Note: (a) All nationals are advised to check with the Peruvian Consulate prior to departure to obtain current details of any documentation which might be required. Postal visa applications are not accepted unless submitted through a travel agency. (b) Visitors travelling to areas with a tropical climate are advised to have yellow fever, smallpox and malaria vaccinations. Working days required: At least 24 hours. Longer if authorisation from the Immigration Office in Lima is required. Money Currency: New Sol (S/.) = 100 céntimos. New Sol notes are in denominations of S/.200, 100, 50, 20 and 10. Coins are in denominations of S/.5, 2 and 1, and 50, 20, 10 and 5 céntimos. Currency exchange: Only a few bureaux de change in Lima will exchange currencies other than US Dollars. Outside Lima, it is virtually impossible. US Dollars can be exchanged everywhere and banks, hotels and shops also readily accept US Dollars (although torn or damaged notes are usually rejected). It is not recommended to exchange money from street vendors. ATMs are now generally regarded as one of the best ways to obtain money in Peru. Credit & debit cards: American Express, MasterCard, Diners Club and Visa are all accepted, but usage facilities may be limited outside of Lima. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services which may be available. Travellers cheques: Banks will exchange travellers cheques although it can be a slow process outside Lima. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in US Dollars. Currency restrictions: There are no restrictions on the import and export of local currency. The import of foreign currency is unrestricted. The export of foreign currency is limited to the amount imported. Receipts of exchange of foreign currencies into S/. must be presented when exchanging back from S/. into foreign currency. Exchange rate indicators The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the New Sol against Sterling and the US Dollar: Date May ’02 Aug ’02 Nov ’02 Feb ’03 £1.00= 5.04 5.46 5.65 5.54 $1.00= 3.46 3.59 3.58 3.48 Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat 0900-1300 (may vary during the summer). Duty Free The following items may be imported by visitors over 18 years of age into Peru without incurring customs duty: 400 cigarettes or 50 cigars; alcoholic beverages not exceeding 2.5l; a reasonable amount of perfume for personal use; gifts or new articles for personal use up to a value of US$300; 2kg of processed food. Restricted items: If importing sausages, salami, ham or cheese, a certificate from the manufacturer is required. The export of artistic or cultural articles is prohibited. Public Holidays Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Apr 17 Maundy Thursday. Apr 18 Good Friday. May 1 Labour Day. Jun 29 St Peter’s and St Paul’s Day. Jul 28-29 Independence Day Celebrations. Aug 30 St Rosa of Lima Day. Oct 8 Battle of Angamos. Nov 1 All Saints’ Day. Dec 8 Immaculate Conception. Dec 25 Christmas Day. Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Apr 8 Maundy Thursday. Apr 9 Good Friday. May 1 Labour Day. Jun 29 St Peter’s and St Paul’s Day. Jul 28-29 Independence Day Celebrations. Aug 30 St Rosa of Lima Day. Oct 8 Battle of Angamos. Nov 1 All Saints’ Day. Dec 8 Immaculate Conception. Dec 25 Christmas Day. Note: The holidays on Maundy Thursday and Christmas Eve are for half a day. Health   Special Precautions Certificate Required Yellow Fever Yes 1 Cholera 2 No Typhoid and Polio 3 N/A Malaria 4 N/A 1: A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required of travellers over six months of age arriving from infected areas. Travellers arriving from non-endemic zones should note that vaccination is strongly recommended for travel to areas within the Amazon Basin, even if an outbreak has not been reported and they would normally not require a vaccination certificate to enter the country. 2: Following WHO guidelines issued in 1973, a cholera vaccination certificate is no longer a condition of entry to Peru. However, autochthonous cases of cholera were reported in 1996. Up-to-date advice should be sought before deciding whether these precautions should include vaccination as medical opinion is divided over its effectiveness. See the Health appendix for more information. 3: Immunisation against typhoid is advised, as the incidence of typhoid is very high. 4: Falciparum malaria exists in all areas below 1500m and in the areas of Jaen, Lambayeque, Loreto, Luciano Castillo, Piura, San Martin, Tumbes and Ucayali. All health centres, which are controlled by the Ministry of Health, will provide free information and medication to anyone entering a high risk area. Food & drink: Drink only bottled water. Pasteurised milk is widely available. Avoid dairy products that are likely to have been made from unboiled milk. Avoid street food vendors and the cheaper restaurants. Only eat well cooked meat and fish, preferably served hot. Pork, salad and mayonnaise may carry increased risk. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled. Always check the expiry date of processed food. Other risks: Hepatitis A occurs, and hepatitis B and D are a risk in the Amazon Basin. Dengue fever outbreaks are common in the Amazon Basin. The incidence of typhoid fever is very high. Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix. Health care: International travellers are strongly advised to take out full health insurance and should be prepared to pay up front for medical services. Travel - International AIR: Peru’s national airlines are Lan Perú (LP), Taca Perú (TA) and AeroContinente (N6). Other airlines with regular services to Peru include Aerolíneas Argentinas, Aeroméxico, AeroPostal, Alitalia, American Airlines, Avianca, Continental, Copa, Delta Airlines, Iberia, KLM, Lacsa, Lan Chile, Lloyd Aéreo Boliviano, Lufthansa, Servivensa, Transportes Aéreos Militares Ecuatorianos (TAME), United Airlines and Varig. Many other airlines have representatives in Peru. Approximate flight times: From Lima to London is 15 hours (including stopover in Madrid), to Los Angeles is 6 hours, to Miami is 5 hours and to New York is 9 hours. Direct flights from Europe take between 12 hours (from Madrid) and 14 hours (from Frankfurt). International airports: Lima (LIM) (Jorge Chávez International) airport is 16km (10 miles) northwest of the city centre (travel time – 25 minutes). Taxis to the city centre are available. Airport facilities include a duty-free and handicrafts shop, banks/bureaux de change (24 hours), pharmacy, medical centre, Internet cafe, car hire (Avis, Budget, Hertz, Thrifty and National), coffee shops, bars and restaurants. Cusco (CUZ), located in the south, receives flights from La Paz (Bolivia). Vist South America Pass: This must be bought outside South America in country of residence and allows unlimited travel to 36 cities in the following countries: Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Chile (except Easter Island), Ecuador, Paraguay, Peru, Uruguay and Venezuela. Participating airlines include LAN-Chile (LA), Aer Lingus (EI), American Airlines (AA), British Airways (BA), Cathay Pacific (CX), Finnair (AY), IBERIA (IB) and Qantas (QF). A minimum of three flights must be booked, with no maximum; the maximum stay is 60 days, with no minimum, and prices depend on the amount of flight zones covered. For both air passes children under 12 years of age are entitled to a 33 per cent discount and infants (under two years old) only pay ten per cent of the adult fare. For further details contact one of the participating airlines. Departure tax: US$25 from Lima’s airport. Transit passengers are exempt. SEA: Some international cruises occasionally call at Callao, the main seaport. ROAD: The main international highway is the Pan-American Highway running north–south through the coastal desert of Peru from Tumbes to Tacna. Transport from Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay and Brazil is available through companies like Ormeño, El Rápido, Rutas de América, Bus Tas Choapa Internacional and Empresa Paraguaya de Transporte. It is also possible to go from La Paz in Bolivia to Puno on Lake Titicaca (south Peru). Travel - Internal AIR: Aero Continente, Aerocóndor, Aviandina, Lan Perú, Star Up, Taca Perú and TANS handle virtually all domestic air traffic linking Lima to Arequipa, Ayacucho, Cajamarca, Chiclayo, Cusco, Iquitos, Juliaca-Puno, Piura, Pucallpa, Puerto Maldonado, Tacna, Tarapoto, Trujillo, Tumbes and other cities. Departure tax: US$4. RIVER: Transportation is available between Pucallpa and Iquitos (approximately five days) and from Iquitos to the border with Brazil and Colombia (two and a half days). However, river travel can be long and uncomfortable. RAIL: PeruRails’s South Route runs overnight from Arequipa to Juliaca and Puno on Lake Titicaca. There is a daytime connection from Puno and Juliaca to Cusco. From Cusco there is a daily train to Machu Picchu, which takes approximately four hours. Always check for revised schedules (website: www.perurail.com.pe). Fast and comfortable electric autovagons operate on some routes. There are no connections between Lima and Cusco. ROAD: The Central Highway connects Lima with La Oroya and Huancayo. From La Oroya there is a road connecting Cerro de Pasco, Huánuco, Tingo María and Pucallpa on the Ucayali River. Landslides are frequent in the rainy season (December-March) making for slow travel. The Touring y Automóvil Club del Perú and the Instituto Geográfico Nacional sell maps. Travel guides like Guía Toyota and Guía Inca del Perú include good road maps. Traffic drives on the right. Bus: Operated extensively, providing a very cheap means of travel. Greyhound-type buses are operated by Ormeño, Cruz del Sur, Ittsa, Enlaces, Perú Bus, Oltursa and many others. Quality of service varies according to prices. Taxi: There are taxis at the main hotels and airports. Taxis do not have meters and fares should be agreed before departure (they are relatively inexpensive). There is an extensive and safe taxi service available by telephone in the main cities. Car hire: Avis, Budget, National, Dollar, Mitsui, Rentandina, American and others have offices in Lima and provide service to all main cities. Documentation: Foreign driving permits are valid for 30 days starting the date of arrival. An International Driving Permit is required in case of longer stays. International driving permits in Peru can be obtained through the Touring y Automóvil Club del Perú. All foreign vehicles must obtain the appropriate documentation from the National Automobile Association in their own country or on the Peruvian border before entering the country (in this case a 90-day permission will be obtained). URBAN: Public transport in Lima is provided by conventional buses and by minibuses (combis). The minimum rate is US$0.30. TRAVEL TIMES: The following chart gives approximate travel times (in hours and minutes) from Lima to other major cities/towns in Peru. Air Road Arequipa 1.20 18.00 Ayacucho 0.50 9.00 Cajamarca 1.30 16.00 Chachapoyas 1.20* 24.00 Chiclayo 1.00 10.00 Cusco 1.00 24.00/26.00 Huancayo - 6.00 Huánuco 0.50 8.00 Huaraz 0.50* 6.00 Ica - 5.00 Iquitos 1.30 - Nazca 6.00 Piura 1.05 16.00 Pucallpa 1.00 20.00 Puerto Maldonado 2.20** 39.00/44.00 Puno (Juliaca) 1.15** 24.00 Tacna 1.30 18.00 Tarapoto 1.00 20.00/24.00 Trujillo 1.00 8.00 Tumbes 1.30 18.00 Note: (a) Approximate travel times are given for travel by bus. (b)* Only charter flights available. (c)** Includes one stopover.Accommodation HOTELS: Lima has the largest choice of hotels in Peru. Other cities where 5- and 4-star hotels can be found are Cusco, Arequipa, Cajamarca, Chiclayo, Trujillo, Puno, Iquitos and Ica (the grading does not always match international standards). Throughout Lima and in most major towns, there are many economical pensiones (guest-houses) to be found. The quality of accommodation in the provinces varies considerably, but hotels are frequently of a good standard. Hotel prices in the provinces are lower than in the capital. Grading: Hotels are classified by the star system, the highest and most luxurious being 5 stars. The level of comfort, quality of service and general infrastructure are the criteria for inclusion in each grade. Prices vary accordingly. All accommodation prices are subject to 18 per cent tax (IGV). Hotels of the higher categories might also add 1-13 per cent service charges. For further information, contact Asociación Peruana de Hoteles, Restaurantes y Afines (AHORA), Avenida José Pardo 620, Miraflores, Lima 18 (tel: (1) 444 7825; tel/fax: (1) 446 8773; e-mail: ahora@qnet.com.pe). CAMPING/CARAVANNING: No formal arrangements exist in Peru. YOUTH HOSTELS: There are 34 youth hostels in the country with dormitory, single or twin rooms. They usually have a bar or cafeteria and a kitchen. For information contact Asociación Peruana de Albergues Turisticos Juveniles (Peruvian Association of Youth Hostels), Avenida Casimiro Ulloa 328, San Antonio, Miraflores, Lima 18 (tel: (1) 446 5488; fax: (1) 444 8187; e-mail: hostell@terra.com.pe; website: www.limahostell.com.pe). Introduction Perhaps no other country has more to offer the visitor than Peru; panoramic mountain ranges, vast deserts, beautiful beaches and tropical jungle. All this combined with a rich historical and archeological past and enduring indigenous cultures. To reflect the importance of tourism to the national economy, Promperú has set up 11 offices around Peru of Tourist Information and Assistance to help visitors solve any problems they may encounter. There is a 24-hour hotline based in Lima (tel: (1) 574 8000). For locations outside the capital there is a toll-free number (0800 4 2579) that operates weekdays 0830-1630. The South American Explorers Club is another good source of information on the area and has an office in Lima, offering a variety of services to its members such as equipment hire and a safe luggage store. For further information on any of the topics mentioned in this section, please contact the Tourist Information and Assistance 24-hour service (tel: (1) 574 8000; e-mail: iperulima@promperu.gob.pe). Lima Situated halfway along Peru’s desert coastline, Lima is literally stuck between the desert and the deep blue sea. The valley was once dominated by hundreds of pre-Inca temples and palaces. Pizarro chose the palace of local chief Taurí Chusko as the site of the city’s inauguration on 6 January 1535 and thus began Lima’s colonial history, reflected in the opulent mansions with Moorish latticed wooden balconies that grace Lima’s plazas. The main square, Plaza de Armas, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, complete with paths, gardens and an elegant bronze fountain. Surrounding the main plaza are the Cathedral, Archbishop’s Palace, the Town Hall and the impressive Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace). Located at the northern end of the plaza, the latter is a lavish example of colonial opulence. The sumptuous state rooms are adorned with Carrera marble, cedar and mahogany wood carvings, French glass and Czech crystal. Highlights are the Grand Salon, modelled on the Versaille Palace’s Hall of Mirrors, the dining room adorned with friezes depicting Inca history and the private theatre. Free guided tours operate daily from the visitor’s entrance in Jirón de la Unión. Outside, visitors can admire the elaborate military uniforms in the Changing of the Guard. The Baroque Cathedral has been reconstructed after several earthquakes and its present building is dated around 1758. Visitors should not miss its Museum of Religious Art and Treasures, plus the collection of bones believed to be those of Pizarro himself. One of the few buildings to withstand the 1746 earthquake is the Church of San Francisco. Recently renovated with the help of UNESCO, this exquisite church has several highlights, including the extraordinary early-17th-century domed cedarwood roof above the broad staircase leading to the cloisters. The library, in its thin, rectangular two-storey salon with twin delicate wooden spiral staircases, houses a collection of some 20,000 volumes, plus masterpieces by Rubens, Jordeans and Van Dyck. Underneath the church are the catacombs, complete with ghoulish circular displays of the skulls and bones of some 70,000 souls. The downtown area of Lima also houses historic colonial mansions, some of which still have connections with the original Spanish families who constructed them. Now occupied by the Foreign Ministry, the Palacio Torre Tagle (1735) with its Moorish-influenced balconies has particularly interesting azulejos (tiles), thought to be the first examples of an artistic fusion between both Native American and European styles. Close by is the striking salmon pink and white stuccoed Post Office built in the 1920s. With wrought iron gates and an arcade roof, the Correo also houses a stamp museum where enthusiasts can buy, trade and sell Peruvian stamps. Peru’s rich cultural heritage is reflected by the variety of museums in the capital. Unmissable for history buffs are the Museo de Oro del Peru (Gold Museum), the Museo de Cultura Peruana (Museum of Peruvian Culture) and the Museo de la Inquisición (Museum of the Inquisition) with its sinister dungeons. Art-lovers should see Goya’s etchings at the Museo Taurino and the collection of masters at the National Art Museum. On 30 August visitors can marvel at the religious processions held to honour the city’s patron saint, Santa Rosa de Lima. Later, on 18 October, a purple haze descends upon the city as the faithful don purple robes to march in processions, praising El Señor de los Milagros. Cultural attractions aside, areas such as San Isidro, Miraflores and Barranco have much to offer the visitor in the way of shopping, restaurants and nightlife. Malls and department stores are expanding within the city, and the downtown area, particularly the streets around the Plaza de Armas, were remodelled a few years ago. Visitors should not miss the colourful daily market in Lima’s Chinatown district. A good place to get a close look at some of Peru’s diverse wildlife (such as jaguars and condors) is the Zoo and Parque de las Leyendas, landscaped to reflect Peru’s three main geographical zones: costa (coast); sierra (mountains); and selva (rainforest). Costa NORTH OF LIMA: Tumbes and Piura are the most northerly Peruvian coastal departments and are Peru’s most important beach, surfing, sporting and deep-sea fishing centres. There are small resort-type hotels and small fishing villages and beaches. CHICLAYO: Chiclayo is a northern city with a hot and sunny climate, distinctive cuisine and musical tradition as well as an unparalleled archaeological heritage. Unfortunately, the 26 pyramid complex of Tucume (35km/22 miles north of Chiclayo) and Huaca Rajada (or the ‘Tomb of the Lord of Sipan’), considered to rank among the finest examples of pre-Columbian art are not yet well restored, thus visitors should hire a local guide. Many of the fascinating ceramics, metal objects and textiles from the region are on view at the Bruning Museum in the town of Lambayeque, located 11km (6.8 miles) north of Chiclayo. There is a new museum called Royal Tombs of Sipan, a modern three-floor pyramid inspired by the Mochica sanctuaries. TRUJILLO: Known as ‘the City of the Eternal Spring’, Trujillo’s brightly coloured colonial mansions – such as the Casa Bracamonte or Casa del Almirante Del Risco – are well worth visiting. The area’s archaeological treasures include Chan Chan, the largest pre-Inca mud city (20 sq km/7.7 sq miles) declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1986 and the huacas (religious centres) of the Sun and the Moon (the latter has painted mud walls depicting one of the main deities of the Moche culture). The beautifully restored Huaca Arco Iris, located close to the city limits is covered with pre-Inca hieroglyphics. Visitors may be interested in the impressive Palacio Iturregui and the Church of El Carmen with its Pinacoteca (Art Museum). Unmissable is Casinelli’s Musuem with an impressive collection of pre-Inca pottery and artefacts, collected from local huaqueros (native priests). Trujillo’s excellent sea-food restaurants, coffee shops and bars make this city one of the best places to dine in Peru. SOUTH OF LIMA: Situated 250km (156 miles) south of Lima via the Pan-American highway, the Paracas National Reserve is home to a large concentration of sea fauna and marine birds. ICA: A pleasant colonial town, famous for its wineries and Pisco distilleries (open to the public all year), Ica is a good point of call on a trip to the Nazca Lines. The town’s interesting Museo Regional de Ica has a striking collection of Paracas, Nazca and Inca artefacts, including a macabre installation of mummies showing the Pre-Inca method of beautifying skulls. The Nazca Lines – 200km (125 miles) ahead towards the South – are a set of large geoglyphs thought to be made by three different cultures between 200 BC and AD 600. These spectacular drawings of animals (birds, felines and reptiles), geometric shapes and lines can be seen from an observation tower but are best viewed from the air. Flights are around US$55 and can be booked from Lima or in the town of Nasca. It wa declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1994. Sierra CAJAMARCA: Located in the northern highlands, Cajamarca was the site of the execution of Inca emperor Atahualpa by the Spanish Conquistadors. Visitors can see Atahualpa’s Ransom Room, allegedly filled with gold to try to buy his release from his Spanish captors. Declared a Historical and Cultural Heritage of the Americas by the Organisation of American States (OAS) in 1986, Cajamarca contains many well-preserved examples of 17th- and 18th-century colonial Spanish buildings and churches and visitors should not miss the Belén complex that includes the Anthropology Museum. As a highland commercial hub, Cajamarca’s central market is a bustling mix of many different native products and people. Cajamarca is also famous for its Carnival celebrations (held four days after Ash Wednesday) undoubtedly the biggest Carnival celebrations in Peru. HUARAZ: Nicknamed the ‘Peruvian Switzerland’ for its glacial lakes and snow-capped peaks, Huaraz is the departure point for treks and expeditions to the Callejón de Huaylas. Huaraz hosts the annual Semana del Andínismo, including international ski events on the Pastoruri Glacier. The Huascarán National Park, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985, protects the area’s biggest indigenous plants, the Puya Raymondi (giant bromeliads that grow up to 15m high and live for over 40 years) and is the home of the native viscacha, puma, vicuña and the rare spectacled bear. The nearby Chancos thermal baths, known traditionally as the ‘Fountain of Youth’, are located 30km north of Huaraz. There are also many archaeological sites nearby, especially remarkable is the pre-Inca stone complex of Chavín de Huántar, situated 110km (69 miles) from Huaraz, dating from approximately 600 BC. It was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985. AYACUCHO: From some city views Ayacucho appears to have more churches than houses and therefore it comes as no surprise that the Semana Santa (Holy Week) celebrations are the most important event on the calendar for locals. Semana Santa sees a massive influx of visitors and therefore it is a good idea to pre-book accommodation. Ayacucho is famous as a source of exquisite handicrafts, including pottery, leatherwork, textiles and jewellery. CUSCO: The capital of the Inca Empire (founded AD 1100), Cusco today is a fascinating mix of Inca and colonial Spanish architecture and was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1983. Almost every central street has remains of Inca walls, arches and doorways that serve as the foundation for the colonial and modern buildings. More archaeological sites are abundant in the nearby area and towns. Narrow alleys of whitewashed houses with sky-blue and bottle-green shutters open out onto elegant squares with stone-hewn fountains and elegant restaurants and posadas (inns). Colourful murals depicting historical scenes can be seen on countless walls and indigenous women with braids and embroidered shawls set up makeshift stalls selling woven blankets and handmade crafts and jewellery. Shops around the main square are open all week from dawn to midnight, but close for about two hours during lunch. There is a wide array of hotels, hostels, pensions and family houses, as well as restaurants and other services related to tourism. Cusco also has a good choice of nightlife. The Church of Santo Domingo was built on the foundations of the Inca Temple of the Sun, Qoricancha, (Quechua for golden courtyard: its walls were covered in solid gold sheets, much to the delight of the gold-hungry Spanish invaders). Heavy doors leading into the cloisters are now adorned with Moorish star- and diamond-shape patterns. The cloisters are lined with oil paintings in heavy gilt frames that depict scenes from the life of St Dominic. Remains of the original Inca temple walls are found inside the main courtyard. The Incas built these walls tapering upwards so that they would withstand earthquake tremors. Huge blocks of green and grey diorite stone were placed together in a perfect fit without mortar, perfectly demonstrating the sophisticated Inca engineering and architectural skills. A further example of Inca skill with polygonal masonry is seen in the Stone of Twelve Angles. The elegant Plaza de Armas, or main square, is lined with arcades and houses with ornately carved wooden balconies and terracotta tiled roofs. Dominating the square is the Cathedral, which is flanked on the left by the Church of Jesús María. Its altar is elaborately carved from cedarwood that is covered in gold and silver plate (plateresco) and mirrors. In the cathedral there are several notable features, from the 400kg (882lb) main altar fashioned from silver mined in Potosí, Bolivia, to the 1958 silver-plated truck, that carries some 14 statues in the annual Corpus Christi procession. The early-17th-century cedar-wood choir stalls bear testimony to the skill of the principal carver, Tomas Tuero Tupac, and are some of the finest in Peru. Marcos Zapata’s painting, La Ultima Cena (The Last Supper) has the apostles with ghostly white pallor, while Judas is given the darker skin colouring of an Indian and, stretched out in the centre of the table, is a local Inca delicacy – cuy, or roast guinea pig. To the right of the cathedral is the Church of El Triunfo. Inside, a painting by Alonso Cortes de Monroy depicts the great earthquake of 1650 with the inhabitants praying to El Señor de los Temblores (Lord of the Earthquakes). Underneath the chapel are commemorative plaques to Garcilaso Inca de la Vega, Inca chronicler, whose remains were returned from Spain to Cusco several years ago. Other sites of interest include the Museo de Arte Religioso, Museo Palacio Municipal, Museo de Historia Nacional. Visitors should purchase a Cusco Visitors Card available from the Tourist Information Office on the main square, that allows the bearer entrance to all of the Inca sites surrounding Cusco, including the town’s museums. SACSAYHUAMÁN: Outside Cusco are four nearby Inca ruins, of which Sacsayhuamán is the most impressive (the others are Qenko, Puca Pucara and Tambo Machay). This magnificent ceremonial centre, with its three vast ramparts that run parallel for more than 350m (1148ft), was the site of the famous battle between Manco Inca and Juan Pizarro, Francisco’s younger brother, in 1536. The boulders used to construct the walls are immense, weighing up to 360 tons and measuring up to 10m (33ft) in height and 4m (13ft) in depth. On 24 June each year, thousands of locals arrive to celebrate the Inti Raymi festival with a colourful pageant held at Sacsayhuaman. Visitors can explore the sites on horseback; it is easy to hire horses and a guide at the park’s entrance. URUBAMBA: The Urubamba was once the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Key sites to visit include the Inca ruins and popular Sunday market at Pisac, as well as the extensive complex of ruins at Ollantaytambo. Urubamba, the main town in the valley, is a base from which to explore the surrounding region. Worth a detour is the pottery belonging to Pablo Seminario, whose distinctive work shows pre-conquest influences. SALINERAS DE MARAS: About 6km (4 miles) from here are the salt pans of Maras. These pre-Inca salt pools were constructed during the Chanapata culture between c. AD 200-300 and AD 900, from a natural salt spring. Terraces were carved from the hillside and through a system of natural irrigation and gravity (still in perfect use today) the water courses along channels to form pools of water, which evaporate in the sun to leave salt deposits. There are over 3000 pools still in use, co-owned by 400 indigenous families. All the salt is scraped by hand from the sides of the pools into sacks and then pulled up the hillside by mules, concensus dictates on which days the water will be diverted along channels to collect in a certain group of pools. MACHU PICCHU: For most visitors, the Inca city of Machu Picchu is the highlight of their visit. Revealed to the Western world by the American Hiram Bingham on 24 July 1919, and declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1983, it is probably the most important archaeological site in South America and requires at least a day to explore fully. Buried beneath jungle vegetation for centuries, excavations revealed a myriad staircases, terraces, temples, palaces, towers and fountains. Highlights of the site include the ceremonial baths, the Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Three Windows and the Intihuatana, or carved rock pillar used by Inca astronomers to predict the solstices. A 30-minute walk south from the main complex takes the visitor to the Inca Bridge, carved into the vertiginous cliff face. Climb the peak of Huayna Picchu that towers over the city and from the summit, it is a breathtaking experience to watch the mist roll back to reveal the architectural marvels of the Inca citadel. Visitors should invest in a guide as there is little information for tourists and there is much that is known about the lost city of the Inca. Those interested in trekking the Inca Trail through the Urubamba Valley should organise their treks at home, due to the environmental damage done by unscrupulous local tour operators to the trail. PUNO: Puno (3800m/12,464ft above sea level) is the centre of Peruvian folklore and hosts some of the best festivals in Peru, Virgen de la Candelaria (2 Feb) and Puno Day (5 Nov) to name but two. Spaniards were lured to the region by the vast mineral wealth and the area is dotted with both colonial churches and pre-Columbian ruins, such as the Chullpas de Sillustani, a complex of tombs in the form of towers built on the banks of Lake Titicaca by the Tiahuanaco people. Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world, is the home of the Uros people who have for centuries built their homes and boats out on the lake using Totora reeds. Extending over a total surface area of 8379 sq km (3235 sq miles), Lake Titicaca is 180km (112 miles) long and 69km (43 miles) across, at its widest point. Around the lake can be found pre-AD 1000 remains from the Pucara and Tiahuanaco cultures. An unforgettable site is the Yavari Project, the oldest steamship on Lake Titicaca. The lake forms a natural border between Peru and Bolivia and in this part of Peru the native people are predominantly Aymara and not Quechua speakers. AREQUIPA: The second-largest city in Peru, Arequipa is also known as the ‘white city’, since the most important colonial buildings were built of a white volcanic rock (ashlar) from a nearby quarry. In the year 2000 the city was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Both Spanish colonial and Andalusian influences are visible everywhere. Especially remarkable is the Santa Catalina Convent – a beautiful ‘city within a city’. Other highlights include the Casa del Moral (House of the Mulberry Tree), with its elegant wrought-iron windows and sculptured portico and the Casa de la Moneda (the former mint). Arequipa is a great place for hiking and mountaineering expeditions with daily excursions to the Cotahuasi and Colca Canyons, one of the deepest in the world. El Misti is a relatively easy climb and river rafting is becoming popular in the area. Selva IQUITOS: Iquitos is Peru’s largest jungle city. Once a booming rubber town in the late 19th century, tourism and oil are now Iquitos’ main industries. It is a major base for excursions to the Amazon basin and has numerous hotels of varying standards as well as nearby jungle lodges and camps. The river provides excellent opportunities for travelling down the Amazon to Brazil or crossing the river to and from Colombia. MANU NATIONAL PARK: Located in the rainforests of the Cusco and Madre de Dios departments, Manu National Park is Peru’s greatest natural treasure in biodiversity. Extending to some 20,000 sq km (7722 sq miles) of tropical rainforest, the area was first earmarked for protection in 1973, declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1977 and a World Natural Heritage Site in 1987. The park is inhabited by indigenous people including the Amahuaca, Huachipaire, Machiguenga, Piro, Yora and Yaminagua tribes and is divided into three distinct areas. The first section, Parque Nacional Manu, can only be entered by scientists and researchers on special permits, while the Zona Reservada is accessible to group tours operated by a licensed company and the Zona Cultural consists of a few villages that are outside restricted areas. Tourist infrastructure in the Zona Reservada is rustic and made from sustainable materials such as local timber and woven palm fronds for roofing material. Few of the lodges have hot water or electricity and, as such, are packaged as eco-friendly and follow strict environmental practices. Scientists believe that the park is home to more than 20,000 species of plants, 1200 species of butterflies, around 1000 types of birds and 200 different mammals. The dense carpet of tropical rainforest is irrigated and dissected by several great rivers, including the Ucayali, Madre de Dios, Manu and Panagua. Over time, swamps and cochas (oxbow lakes) have formed, sustaining unique types of flora and fauna. In the Manu region, a whole host of birds can be seen including the Amazon kingfisher, harpy eagle, hoatzin, orinoco goose and tiger herons. It is possible to spot various primate groups in the dense tree cover, such as the emperor tamarin, spider and howler monkeys, but less common are the lowland tapir, sloth, jaguar or capybaras. For this reason, a stay of seven to eight days is recommended in order to observe a representative sample of the flora and fauna, birds and animals available. BLANQUILLO ECOLOGICAL RESERVE: Outside the Reserve Zone is the Blanquillo Ecological Reserve, a private reserve that extends to almost 14,000 hectares (34,595 acres). The Tambo Blanquillo Lodge owns a floating catamaran hide, which is ideally situated to view the spectacular early morning sight of hundreds of brightly coloured macaws and parrots descending to feed off the 6m- (20ft-) high clay lick, or cliff known as a ccollpa. A ten-minute motorised canoe ride from the lodge connects with a trail that leads to the Cocha Camunga, home to a family of giant river otters. Even more opportunities to see wildlife can be enjoyed from a magnificent 40m- (130ft-) high viewing platform, carefully constructed in the boughs of a magnificent Kapok tree. TAMBOPATA-CANDAMO RESERVED ZONE: The Tambopata-Candamo Reserved Zone is 58km (36 miles) from Puerto Maldonado by river. Specialists say that it contains the largest and richest bio-diversity of the world. The flora and fauna within includes more than 2000 flower varieties, 1000 birds and 900 butterflies and dragonflies. Sport & Activities Mountain trekking: Practically all of the highlands and some parts of the jungle include trekking circuits, although only a few are being used commercially. Hikes are possible all year round, but the easiest period is the dry season (June to September). Hiking equipment can be bought or hired in Cusco and Huaraz which are the starting points to the most important treks in Peru, listed below. Inca Trail to Machu Picchu: Probably the most famous trekking route in South America, the trail offers views of snow-capped mountains, high cloud forests and the opportunity to walk past several magnificent ancient Inca ceremonial centres, such as those at Wiñay Wayna and Phuyupatamarca. Completion of the 48km (30 mile) trek takes three to five days, and must be undertaken in a group with an official local leader. The trail fee is approximately US$50 per person, which includes a one-day entrance ticket to Machu Picchu. Cordillera Blanca: The highest tropical mountain range is a 180km- (112.5-mile) long paradise of snow-capped mountains, glaciers, emerald-green lakes and archaeological sites. It also contains a wide variety of flora and fauna. Practically the entire range is a protected area within the Huascarán National Park. Routes vary from two to 12 days. Olleros-Chavín Llama Trek: This is a four-day trek between the attractive town of Olleros and the spectacular archaeological site of Chavín de Huántar. Llama 2000, as it is known, is an initiative launched by a group of campesino farmers to promote ecotourism while protecting their traditional way of life. Other trekking areas: These include the Cordillera Huayhuash (Huaraz), Colca Valley (150km/94 miles north of Arequipa), where major attractions include snow-capped volcanoes; Mount Ausangate (south of Cusco), a physically demanding eight- to 12-day walk, which requires climbing through high mountain passes and being exposed to changing weather conditions. Mountaineering: The Cordillera Blanca (23 summits above 6000m/19,686ft above sea level) and Huayhuash (six summits above 6000m/19,686ft above sea level) are the best-known ranges for mountaineering activities – a unique concentration of mountains and relatively few mountain climbers. There is mild weather almost all year long and relatively easy access to sites that are nevertheless cut off from hectic city life. Surfing: This is a particular favourite as the beaches of Lima (constant waves from April to September) and the north (heavy seas between October and March) rank alongside the best in Hawaii or California. Top spots include Chicama (or Malabrigo), Cabo Blanco or Pico Alto. Fishing: The most renowned spot for sea fishing is Punta Sal in Tumbes (North coast).Tuna fish, drums, flounder, pacific croaker, grunts, groupers and large black marlins can be found on the coast of Peru. Lake and river fishing is good in both the highlands and the jungle. Whitewater rafting: Rafting in Peru combines amazing landscapes with some tough rapids. Some rivers can be run in one-day trips (mostly on the coast and the highlands), and expeditions lasting from three to 12 days can be arranged to run others (mostly in the highlands and the jungle). The Colca River is rated as Peru’s premier rafting river. Mountain biking: Any part of the country, except the coastal desert and the jungle plains, is suitable for mountain biking. Some of the best circuits include those in the Pachacámac Valley and the Paracas Reserve. Other: The main sports and activities practised in Peru are paragliding, hang-gliding, rock climbing, windsurfing, horse riding, marathon running (annual competitions at challenging heights), snowboarding, hot air ballooning, underwater fishing and scuba diving. Tennis facilities are available in Lima. Golf facilities are usually available to members only. Social Profile Food & Drink: The hot and spicy nature of Peruvian food, created by ají and ajo (hot pepper and garlic), has become celebrated at home and abroad. Peruvians enjoy a wide variety of vegetables; there are over 2000 kinds of indigenous and cultivated potatoes alone. Tropical fruits are abundant, as are avocados. Ceviche is a local speciality (uncooked fish marinated in lemon or lime juice and hot chili pepper, served with fried corn, sweet potatoes, onions and flavoured with coriander). Escabeche is a cooked fish appetiser eaten cold, served with peppers and onions. Corvina is sea bass, which can be prepared in a variety of ways, and is always an excellent choice. Typical dishes made with scallops (conchitas), mussels (choros), octopus (pulpo) and shrimps (camarones) are plentiful and delicious. Chupe de camarones is a chowder-type soup made with shrimps, milk, eggs, potatoes and peppers. Other staple dishes include papa a la huancaina (yellow potato with cheese and chili sauce), arroz con choclo (rice with corn), cau cau (tripe cooked with potato, peppers and parsley), causa relleña (potato cakes with chicken in the centre, but also cooked with avocado or crabmeat) and tamales (boiled corn dumplings filled with meat and wrapped in a banana leaf). Specialities include sopa criolla (spicy soup with beef and noodles), ají de gallina (shredded chicken in a piquant cream sauce), anticuchos (strips of beef or fish marinated in vinegar and spices, then barbecued on skewers) and lomo saltado (pieces of beef sautéed with onions and peppers, served with fried potatoes and rice). Rice and potatoes accompany virtually every dish. Traditional desserts are arroz con leche (rice pudding), alfajores (wafer-thin spirals of shortbread dusted with icing sugar) and served with manjar blanco (a caramel sauce), picarones (doughnuts served with syrup) and mazamorra morada (purple maize and sweet potato starch jelly cooked with lemons, dried fruits, cinnamon and cloves). Table service is the norm in hotels and restaurants and many of them also offer buffet-type lunches. The most famous drink is pisco sour, made from a potent grape brandy. Other pisco-based drinks are algarrobina (pisco and carob syrup), chilcano (pisco and ginger ale) and capitán (pisco and vermouth). Chicha de jora (fermented red or yellow corn juice) and chicha morada (non-alcoholic purple corn juice) are popular drinks dating from Inca times. Peruvian beers and national wines are good. Nightlife: There are many good bars, pubs, discotheques and casinos in the major towns and tourist resorts. Peñas always serve snacks and some serve full meals. Here one can enjoy criolla or folk music, especially at weekends. Nightlife in Lima and Cusco has a wide array of choices. Most discotheques, peñas, pubs and karaokes are open until 0300 or 0400 in the morning. Shopping: There are many attractive Peruvian handicrafts such as alpaca wool sweaters, alpaca and llama rugs, Indian masks, weaving, jewellery and much more. Galleries and handicraft shops abound in the Miraflores, Pueblo Libre and downtown districts of Lima. Handicrafts markets are located in Miraflores (Petit Thouars Ave, blocks 52-53) and Pueblo Libre (La Marina Ave, blocks 8-10). Shopping hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1300 and 1600-2000. Special Events: The following is a selection of the major festivals held throughout Peru in 2003. Check with the Embassy or Iperu for further details (see Contact Addresses section): Feb Carnival (carnival is celebrated throughout the country, but particularly in Cajamarca, Puno, Ayacucho and Iquitos). Feb 1-14 La Virgen de la Candelaria, Puno. Mar (second week) La Vendimia (wine festival), Ica. Apr Holy Week (celebrated across the country, but particularly in Ayacucho and Tarma); Peruvian Paso Horse Contest, Mamacona stables near Pachacámac. May (first week) Qoyllur Rit'i (the largest indigenous pilgrimage in the Americas at Quispicanchis, near Cuzco, celebrated one week before Corpus Christi). Jun Corpus Christi Festivities and Inti Raymi (Festival of the Sun), Cusco; San Juan Festival, particularly important in the rainforest, especially Iquitos. Jul Festival of the Virgin of El Carmen, Paucartambo, Cuzco. Jul 28 Independence Day (celebrated countrywide but with the largest festivals in Lima). Aug Santa Rosa de Lima Day (Patron Saint of the Americas and the Philippines). Sep International Spring Festival, Trujillo (parades, handicraft and art exhibits, folk music and gastronomy contests). Oct Procession of the Lord of the Miracles, Lima. Nov Bullfighting Festival, Lima; Puno Jubilee Week. Dec 24 Santuranticuy Fair (fair selling images of saints and other crafts, Cuzco). Social Conventions: Shaking hands is the customary form of greeting. Visitors should follow normal social courtesies and the atmosphere is generally informal. A small gift from a company or home country is sufficient. Dress is usually informal, although for some business meetings and social occasions men wear a jacket and tie. Life is conducted at a leisurely pace. Tipping: Service charges of ten per cent are added to all bills. Additional tips of five per cent are expected. Taxi drivers do not generally expect tips. Business Profile Economy: The Peruvian economy is divided into two distinct parts: a relatively modern industrial and service economy concentrated on the coastal plain, and a subsistence agricultural economy in the interior. Inevitably, one consequence has been huge migration from the interior to the coastal cities. About one-third of the workforce is engaged in agriculture, producing rice, maize and potatoes for domestic consumption and coffee as the principal cash crop. There is also a substantial illicit economy based on the production of coca (which has grown recently due to the collapse of world coffee prices). Fisheries are also important, and provide substantial export income. Much of the foreign investment of the early 1990s was directed towards Peru’s major industry, mining, which accounts for about half of export earnings. Peru is a major producer of copper; in addition, there are sizeable deposits of lead, zinc, silver and gold, and some oil reserves. Manufacturing is concentrated in processed foods, chemicals, metal products, machinery and textiles. In the service sector, tourism has grown considerably during the last two decades, and now brings in almost US$1 billion annually. During the early- and mid-1990s, Peru implemented important market-oriented reforms, including a drastic overhaul of the fiscal and monetary systems, privatisation of key industries (mining, telecommunications and energy), trade deregulation and measures to attract investment from abroad. In Peru’s case the strategy was reasonably successful, boosting exports and attracting foreign capital. The defeat of the Sendero Luminoso insurgency also served to boost investor confidence. Throughout most of the decade, Peru was among the most dynamic economies in Latin America with an average annual GDP growth of around five per cent. However, events since 1997 – the Asian and Brazilian financial crises, the effects of El Niño (especially upon agriculture) and latterly, political instability caused by the demise of the Fujimori regime – combined to stall Peru’s economic progress. The official unemployment rate is eight per cent, but it is estimated that up to 40 per cent of the workforce are underemployed. During 2002, current annual growth was just under three per cent. Peru is a member of the Andean Treaty and the Latin American Integration Association, ALADI, which promotes trade and economic development in Latin America. Peru’s major trading partners are the USA, Japan, Brazil and Germany. Business: Although the majority speak Spanish, many businesspeople speak some English. Office hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700. Commercial Information: The following organisation can offer advice: Cámara de Comercio de Lima, Avenida Gregorio Escobedo 398, Jesus Maria, Lima 11 (tel: (1) 463 3434 or 463 8080; fax: (1) 463 2837; e-mail: perured@camaralima.org.pe; website: www.camaralima.org.pe). Conferences/Conventions: For further information contact PromPeru (see Contact Addresses section for details). Climate Varies according to area. On the coast winter lasts from June to September. During this period, the mountainous areas are often sunny during the day but cold at night. Heavy rains in the mountains and jungle last from December to April. It never rains in Lima nor most of the coast, except for Tumbes and Piura, which have tropical climates. Required clothing: Lightweights during summer with warmer clothes worn in upland areas. Mediumweights are advised during cooler months. History and Government History: The indigenous Inca civilisation of what is now Peru was conquered by Spain in the early 16th century. The city of Lima was founded in 1535 and became the effective capital of the vice-royalty of Peru, established seven years later. Spain ruled the country until the early 19th century, using the rich silver reserves to finance its costly imperialist struggles with France, England and The Netherlands. The wars of independence, which expelled the Spanish from virtually the entire South American continent, reached Peru in the early 1820s. After the 1821 declaration of independence, Peru was challenged by the royalists. The new government appealed to the revolutionary leader, Simon Bolivar, for assistance. Arriving from Colombia, Bolivar defeated the royalists at the Battle of Ayacucho in December 1824, after which he became head of state. Relations between Peru and its neighbours were difficult in the early years of independence. There were border disputes with Brazil and Ecuador – which have not been settled to this day – but especially with Chile. The War of the Pacific, which broke out between Peru (supported by Bolivia) and Chile in 1879, ended after five years, with a complete victory for Chile and the loss to Peru of some southern territories. Internal problems dominated the agenda for the next 30 years, as a series of governments struggled to keep the economy, which was almost completely destroyed as a result of the Pacific War, from disintegrating. The first of Peru’s many military coups was in 1914. The junta lasted five years, before giving way to the civilian government of Augusto Leguia. Between 1919 and 1930, despite rampant corruption, Leguia instituted important reforms in education and social services. His tenure ended with another military take-over. While the military has always been a powerful force in Peruvian politics, its principal opponent and the country’s largest political party for much of the 20th century has been the Alianza Popular Revolucionaria Americana (APRA), founded by Dr Victor Raul Haya de la Torre in 1924, as a continent-wide anti-imperialist movement, although increasingly moderate and Peruvian-centred in its appeal. APRA has nevertheless been illegal for much of its history. Civilian administrations from 1963-67 and 1980-85 were headed by right-wing President Belaunde Terry of the Accion Popular Party, although APRA was usually the largest party in the Chamber of Deputies. Under Alan Garcia, APRA took power for the first time in 1985. Garcia’s administration was a failure on both the political and economic front. On the political front, Garcia was faced with the continuing growth of the Maoist guerrilla movement, Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path), which benefited substantially from the deteriorating economic situation. The failure of the Garcia government froze APRA out of the 1990 presidential election, which developed into a two-way race between Mario Vargas Llosa – the world-renowned author who led the Democratic Front coalition – and the comparatively unknown independent centrist candidate, Alberto Fujimori – an agricultural engineer of Japanese extraction – who was the surprise landslide winner. The new government followed the trend on the Latin American continent for economic shock treatment, although continuing capital flight and the distorting effects of the illegal cocaine economy have proved insoluble problems. The ‘war on drugs’ was at the heart of relations between Peru and the USA, which has concluded a number of agreements with the capital, Lima. Otherwise, Peru’s foreign policy under Fujimori has been devoted to economic matters – principally trade agreements and aid commitments – and the resolution of border disputes. There was a bitter disagreement with Ecuador over access to the Amazonian river system and control of the potentially mineral-rich Condor mountain range. Full-scale fighting broke out after long-running bilateral talks broke down in early 1995. This continued intermittently until a settlement was reached in 1999. At home, the security forces made a major breakthrough in September 1992, by capturing Sendero leader Abimael Guzman. This was the beginning of the end for Sendero, which, although still active in a few coca-growing regions, is now a pale shadow of its former self. The capture of Guzman helped to bolster Fujimori’s position at a time when he was under severe criticism at home and abroad for the ‘constitutional coup’ he had launched with the backing of the security forces, six months earlier. Congress was suspended indefinitely while Fujimori ruled by decree. In 1993, Fujimori unveiled a new constitution that, once accepted by a national referendum, returned Peru to constitutional government. This, plus the mild economic recovery and the demise of Sendero Luminoso, gave Fujimori victory in the April 1995 presidential election over the former United Nations Secretary-General, Javier Perez de Cuellar. Any assumption of total victory on the part of the state was premature, as shown by the take-over of the residence of the Japanese ambassador by guerrillas of the leftist MRTA a week before Christmas 1997. The guerrillas held the complex for four months, until it was stormed by Peruvian troops. Since then, the various guerrillas groups have been very quiet. In early 1998, large areas of the country were devastated and hundreds of lives lost in storms associated with the El Niño climatic system. For the next 18 months, the political agenda was dominated by more of Fujimori’s constitutional machinations, as he engineered an unprecedented third term of office. Fujimori’s main opponent, Alejandro Toledo, felt that he had no option but to withdraw from the May 2000, leaving the president to ‘win’ a third term by default. Fujimori’s triumph, such as it was, was short-lived. During his first two terms, he had relied heavily on the dubious services of his intelligence chief and principal fixer, Vladimir Montesinos. The mysterious appearance of a videotape showing Montesinos bribing an opposition assembly member to switch sides triggered Montesinos’ fall. As investigations into his activities widened, he was found to be implicated in an extraordinary range of illegal activities, including drug trafficking, money laundering and organising death squad killings. Although arrested by the army in September 2001, he managed to slip out the country two months later. Located in Venezuela for eight months, he was returned to Peru, where he is now due to stand trial. Montesinos’ demise also meant the end for Fujimori, who was implicated in many of the same crimes. He resigned the presidency in November and quickly left for Japan – he carries dual Japanese/Peruvian nationality. So far, Tokyo, which never extradites its own nationals, has refused requests for his extradition. Bizarrely, Fujimori now apparently believes that he can make a political comeback, possibly at the 2006 presidential election. The fall-out from the Montesinos affair has forced the resignation of dozens of politicians, government officials and military officers. Some face criminal charges. In April 2001, Alejandro Toledo, who had conceded the May 2000 election to Fujimori (see above), won a new presidential poll, defeating the APRA candidate, ex-president Alan Garcia. Following simultaneous national assembly elections, Toledo’s party, the centrist Peru Posible, leads a governing six-party coalition. Toledo, the first Peruvian president of native Indian origin, has had a difficult time, largely due to the poor economic situation. In June 2002, a state of emergency was declared in the country’s second city, Arequipa, after riots broke out. In early 2003, the country was hit by a wave of major storms and floods. Government: Under the new constitution introduced at the end of 1993, executive power is held by the president and legislative power by a 120-member single-chamber Assembly. Both are elected for five-year terms. Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.