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Home  >  World  > Caribbean  > Saba

Introduction

Mount Scenery is an extinct volcano rising from the floor of the Caribbean; the 250m (820ft) of it above sea level are known as Saba. With only one road (‘The Road’) and a population of less than 1500, Saba is the most unspoilt of the Netherlands Antilles; the inhabitants will claim that visitors are so few that each one is something of a celebrity. Until 50 years ago Saba was a secluded oasis, having neither an airport nor a sheltered harbour. From the rocky beach at Fort Bay, there was a steep climb of 800 steps hewn out of the rock in order to gain access to the island. The island’s four villages are mere clusters of ornate timber cottages perching on the flanks of the mountain. Vegetation becomes increasingly lush towards the summit and the crater itself holds a tropical rainforest scattered with exotic flowers – begonias, giant heliconias and orchids. Tours may be taken by taxi from the airport or pier, or on foot via the forest trails and thousands of stone-cut steps linking the villages. The Harry L Johnson Memorial Museum in Windwardside is the restored home of a Dutch sea captain. Windwardside also contains the Tourist Office, the island’s two largest guest-houses and most of its shops. The island’s capital, The Bottom, is situated 250m (820ft) above the ocean on a plateau surrounded by volcanic domes. Here, the Artisan Foundation exhibits early examples of ‘Saba lace’; intricate embroidery on linen that resembles lace. The climate is milder than neighbouring St Eustatius (21km/13 miles away), but the island is subject to sudden downpours.


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