Turkmenistan
Overview

Country Overview
Turkmenistan shares borders with Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Afghanistan and Iran. To the west is the Caspian Sea. Nearly 80 per cent of the country is taken up by the Kara-Kum (Black Sand) Desert, the largest in the CIS. Turkmenistan’s tourist trade is relatively undeveloped. Almost all the attractions lie around the fringes of the desert and in oases. The capital, Ashgabat, on the southern rim of the Kara-Kum Desert, is a modern city. It replaced the one founded in 1881, which was destroyed in an earthquake in 1948. The Sunday market in Ashgabat is the best place anywhere to buy Turkmen carpets. Mary, due east of Ashgabat, is Turkmenistan’s second city. It lies near the remains of the city of Merv, which was once the second city of Islam until Ghengis Khan’s son Toloi, reduced it to rubble killing many inhabitants in 1221. Plov – pronounced ‘plo’ – is the staple food for everyday and celebrations and consists of chunks of mutton, shredded yellow turnip and rice fried in a large wok. Ashgabat has an opera and ballet theatre, which shows both Russian and European works and a drama theatre.

General Information

Area: 488,100 sq km (188,456 sq miles).

Population: 4,708,000 (1998).

Population Density: 9.6 per sq km.

Capital: Ashgabat. Population: 517,200 (1993).

GEOGRAPHY: Turkmenistan shares borders with Kazakhstan to the north, Uzbekistan to the east, Afghanistan to the southeast and Iran to the south. To the west is the Caspian Sea. Nearly 80 per cent of the country is taken up by the Kara-Kum (Black Sand) Desert, the largest in the CIS. The longest irrigation canal in the world stretches 1100km (687 miles), from the Amu-Darya River in the east, through Ashgabat, before being piped the rest of the way to the Caspian Sea.

Government: Republic. Gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. Head of State and Government: President Saparmurad A Niyazov since 1990.

Language: Turkmen is the official state language, and is closer to Turkish, Azeri and Crimean Tartar than those of its neighbours Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan. The Turkmen script was changed from Latin to Cyrillic in 1940, but the process of changing back to the Turkish version of the Latin script is underway.

Religion: Predominantly Sunni Muslim with a small Russian Orthodox minority. Turkmenistan shares the Central Asian Sufi tradition.

Time: GMT + 5.

Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz. Round two-pin continental plugs are standard.

Communications:  

Telephone

Country code: 993. Area code for Ashgabat: 12. Outgoing international code: 810.

Mobile telephone

GSM 900 network covers Ashgabat area. Operated by BCTI.

Fax

Services are available in the main hotels for residents only.

Internet

ISPs include Turkemenistan Online (website: www.online.tm).

Telegram

Services are available from post offices in large towns.

Post

Letters to Western Europe and the USA can take between two weeks and two months. Stamped envelopes can be bought from post offices. Mail addresses should be laid out in the following order: country, postcode, city, street, house number and lastly the person’s name. Post office hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800. The main Post Office in Ashgabat is open until 1900.

Press

The press in Turkmenistan is still censored. The main newspapers in Ashgabat are Turkmenistan and Vatan (both in Turkmen) and Neitralnyi Turkmentistan (Russian).

BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change.

BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice):

MHz17.7915.5811.761.413


Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov):

MHz17.7411.719.6456.110


Passport/Visa

 Passport Required?Visa Required?Return Ticket Required?
BritishYesYesNo
AustralianYesYesNo
CanadianYesYesNo
USAYesYesNo
OtherEUYesYesNo
JapaneseYesYesNo


Note: Visa regulations within the CIS are liable to change at short notice. Prospective travellers are advised to contact the nearest Turkmenistan Embassy well in advance of intended date of departure.

PASSPORTS: Valid passport required by all.

VISAS: Required by all except travellers continuing to a third country within 24 hours as long as they hold onward tickets and documentation for the next destination and do not leave the airport.

Note: Special permission must be sought by those wishing to visit border zones.

Types of visa and cost: Dependent upon nationality. Single-entry (one month): US$46 (for nationals of the UK); US$34 (for nationals of Canada, USA and Japan). For all other types of visa, contact the Embassy for details of prices (see Contact Addresses section).

Validity: Subject to the nature of the visit and the discretion of the authorities in Turkmenistan.

Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy); see Contact Addresses section.

Note: (a) For those coming from countries without Embassies or Consulates of Turkmenistan, entry or transit visas may be obtained for a maximum of ten days on arrival, provided holding an invitation from a company in Turkmenistan. (b) Tourists should normally book through a recognised tour operator, who will obtain visas on their behalf. (c) Visitors intending to stay for more than three months must produce a certificate stating that they are HIV-negative.

Application requirements: (a) Completed application form. (b) One passport-size photo. (c) Passport valid for six months from date of departure. (d) Covering letter explaining purpose of visit. (e) Evidence of hotel booking. (f) Fee. (g) Stamped, self-addressed envelope. Business visits: (a)-(g) and, (h) Letter of invitation approved by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Turkmenistan.

Working days required: Three to seven.

Temporary residence: Applications for temporary residence to carry out business are handled by the Interior Ministry; those wishing to obtain temporary residence for other reasons should apply to the Consular Affairs Office at the Foreign Ministry.

Money

Currency: 1 Manat (TMM) = 100 tenge. Notes are in denominations of TMM10,000, 5000, 1000, 500, 100, 50, 10, 5 and 1. Coins are in denominations of 50, 20, 10, 5 and 1 tenge.

Currency exchange: The preferred hard currency is US Dollars and visitors carrying other currencies may find it hard to change them. It is advisable to take new, clean US Dollar notes in small denominations. Foreign currency can be changed at banks and major hotels. Foreigners are expected to pay all travel and hotel bills in hard currency, and prices bear little relation to what locals are expected to pay. Most packages are all-inclusive and extra payment of accommodation and meals is unnecessary.

Credit & debit cards: Not generally accepted.

Travellers cheques: Only travellers cheques drawn on banks with reciprocal arrangements with the Turkmen National Bank are accepted.

Currency restrictions: The import and export of local currency is prohibited for foreigners. Import of foreign currency is unlimited subject to declaration, and export is limited to the amount declared on import.

Exchange rate indicators
The exchange rate was US$1 = TMM1000 (official) or TMM3000 (commercial) in April 1996, when it was announced that the official rate would be discontinued. From then on, a unified exchange rate was introduced for all transactions, determined by trading on the Turkmen Interbank Currency Exchange, which commenced operations in 1996.


DateMay ’02Aug ’02Oct ’02Jan ’03
€1.00=4865.64*5117.84*5113.16*5617.04*
$1.00=5200.005200.005200.005200.00


Note: * Values are given against the Euro rather than Sterling as an accurate exchange rate against Sterling is not available.

Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1730

Duty Free

Import regulations in Turkmenistan are subject to change at short notice, and travellers should contact the embassy before departure for up-to-date information.
The following goods may be imported into Turkmenistan by passengers aged 17 and over:
200 cigarettes or 200g of tobacco; 1.5l of spirits and 2l of wine (passengers aged 21 and over); personal belongings up to a value of TMM500.


Note: On entering the country, tourists must complete a customs declaration form which must be retained until departure. This allows the import of articles intended for personal use, including currency and valuables which must be registered on the declaration form. Customs inspection can be long and detailed. It is advisable when shopping to ask for a certificate from the shop which states that goods have been paid for in hard currency. Presentation of such certificates should speed up customs formalities.

Prohibited items: Military weapons, ammunition and narcotics may not be imported or exported. Works of art and antiques may not be exported (unless permission has been granted by the Ministry of Culture).

Public Holidays

Dec 6-8 2002 Ramadan Bairam (End of Ramadan). Dec 12 Neutrality Day. Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Jan 12 Memory Day. Feb 12 Kurban Bairam (Feast of the Sacrifice). Feb 19 National Flag Day. Mar 8 International Women’s Day. Mar 21 Novruz Bairam (Turkmen New Year). May 9 Victory Day. May 18 Revival and Unity Day. Jun 21 Day of Election of First President. Oct 6 Remembrance Day (Anniversary of the 1948 Earthquake). Oct 27-28 Independence Days. Nov 26-28 Ramadan Bairam (End of Ramadan). Dec 12 Neutrality Day. Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Jan 12 Memory Day. Feb 2 Kurban Bairam (Feast of the Sacrifice). Feb 19 National Flag Day. Mar 8 International Women’s Day. Mar 21 Novruz Bairam (Turkmen New Year). May 9 Victory Day. May 18 Revival and Unity Day. Jun 21 Day of Election of First President. Oct 6 Remembrance Day (Anniversary of the 1948 Earthquake). Oct 27-28 Independence Days. Nov 14-16 Ramadan Bairam (End of Ramadan). Dec 12 Neutrality Day.

Note: Muslim festivals (End of Ramadan and Feast of the Sacrifice) are timed according to the phases of the moon and the dates given are approximations. For more information, see the World of Islam appendix.

Health

 Special PrecautionsCertificate Required
Yellow FeverNoNo
Cholera1No
Typhoid and Polio2N/A
Malaria3N/A


1: Cholera is a risk in Turkmenistan and precautions are advisable. Up-to-date advice should be sought before deciding whether these precautions should include vaccination as medical opinion is divided over its effectiveness. See the Health appendix for more information.

2: Vaccination against typhoid is advised.

3: Malaria risk exclusively in the benign (P vivax) form exists from June to October in some villages located in the southeastern part of the country, mainly in the Mary district.

Food & drink: All water should be regarded as a potential health risk. Water used for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should have been boiled or otherwise sterilised. Milk is pasteurised and dairy products are safe for consumption. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish, preferably served hot. Pork, salad and mayonnaise may carry increased risk. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled.

Other risks: Diphtheria and tuberculosis outbreaks are reported, and suitable precautions should be taken. Hepatitis A, B and E occur. Plague and trachoma occur rarely. Because the climate is very hot and dry, precautions should also be taken against dehydration. It is important to drink plenty of (boiled or bottled) water.
Rabies
is present. For those at high risk, vaccination should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix.


Health care: Medical insurance, including cover for emergency repatriation, is highly recommended. Medical facilities are poor, high levels of disease have been reported. Travellers are advised to take a well-equipped first-aid kit with them containing basic medicines and any prescriptions that they may need.

Travel - International

AIR: The domestic airline is Turkmenistan Airlines (T5). There are international connections to London and Birmingham (UK), Istanbul (Turkey), Abu Dhabi (UAE), Delhi (India), Kyiv (Ukraine), Moscow (Russian Federation), Damascus (Syrian Arab Republic) and Karachi (Pakistan). Flights between London and Ashgabat are twice weekly. Ashgabat is also served by Asseman Airlines from Tehran, by Lufthansa from Frankfurt/M and by Turkish Airlines from Istanbul. There are connections within the CIS to Moscow and St Petersburg (Russian Federation), Tashkent (Uzbekistan), and Kyiv (Ukraine). All flight tickets bought by foreigners within Turkmenistan must be paid for in hard currency. The prices tend to be ten times as much as those that locals pay.

Approximate flight times: From London to Ashbagat is 6 hours 30 minutes, from Istanbul is 2 hours 30 minutes, from Abu Dhabi is 2 hours, from Karachi is 4 hours 30 minutes, from Tehran is 1 hour, from Moscow is 3 hours 30 minutes, from Tashkent is 2 hours and from Kyiv is 2 hours.

International airports: Ashgabat Airport (ASB) is approximately 13km (8 miles) northwest of the city centre. A new terminal building has resulted in an increase of capacity. The airport is served by buses and taxis.

Departure tax: Generally US$25. Nationals of CIS countries pay US$15 and nationals of Turkmenistan pay US$5.

SEA: There are ferries to Turkmenbashi (formerly Krasnovodsk) from Baku (Azerbaijan) and an irregular service to Astrakhan (Russian Federation). It is theoretically possible to travel from Moscow to Turkmenbashi via the Volga River and the Caspian Sea without setting foot on dry land.

RAIL: The Trans-Caspian Railway connects Turkmenistan with the rest of the Central Asian republics and thence to Moscow and the rest of the CIS. The terminus is in Turkmenbashi on the Caspian Sea, from where it runs through Ashgabat before it crosses into Uzbekistan near the city of Chardzhou. Approximate rail times from Turkmenbashi are: to Tashkent 24 hours, to Dushanbe 36 hours and to Moscow three days. A rail link to the Iranian network, enabling train travel from Turkmenistan to Turkey (Istanbul), was completed in 1996.

ROAD: Turkmenistan is connected by road to Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and to Mashad and Tehran in Iran. The crossing into Iran is only open to nationals of the CIS and Iran. Bus: Services are available to the capitals of the neighbouring republics, and north across the Kara-Kum desert to Kunya-Urgench with connections to Urgench and Khiva in Uzbekistan. A service also runs between Ashgabat and Mashhad (eastern Iran).

Travel - Internal

AIR: Turkmenistan Airlines runs regular flights between Ashgabat, Mary, Turkmenabat, Turkmenbashi, Dashoguz and Chardzhou, and once daily flights to Kerki (far east) and Balkanabat. All flight tickets have to be paid for in local currency.

Approximate flight times: From Ashgabat to Mary is 1 hour and to Chardzhou is 1 hour 30 minutes.

RAIL: There is a daytime and overnight train between Ashgabat and Turkmenbashi; two daily overnight trains to Turkmenabat, one continuing to Dashgouz; and a daily overnight service between Ashgabat and Gushgi via Mary (although Gushgi is off limits due to its border with Afghanistan). The Trans-Caspian Railway runs from Turkmenbashi (formerly Krasnovodsk) in the west, through Ashgabat and Mary to Chardzhou in the east before continuing to Bukhara in Uzbekistan.

ROAD: Traffic drives on the right. Conditions can be dangerous. The main road in Turkmenistan runs along the route of the Trans-Caspian Railway (see above). There is also a road that runs north from Ashgabat to Tashauz and Kunya-Urgench before crossing into Uzbekistan. This road crosses 500km (311 miles) of the Kara-Kum desert. Bus: Cheap services are available within all the major towns. Modern and comfortable long-distance buses also operate to Dashgouz, Turkmenabashi, Turkmenabat and Mary from Ashgabat. Taxi: Taxis and chauffeur-driven cars for hire can be found in all major towns. Many are unlicensed and travellers are advised to agree the fare in advance. As many of the street names have changed since independence, it is also advisable to ascertain both the old and the new street names when asking directions. Car hire: Self-drive hire is available from a few large hotels. Traffic regulations: Drinking and driving is strictly forbidden. Documentation: An International Driving Permit, or national licence with authorised translation, is required.

Accommodation

HOTELS: There are no restrictions on where foreigners can stay in Turkmenistan. When Turkmenistan gained independence, there was an acute shortage of hotel accommodation, a situation which the Turkmen are working hard to rectify. Feverish hotel construction is underway in Ashgabat. A row of luxury hotels has recently been built on the edge of town along a road known locally as the ‘Miracle Mile’. These are small hotels with between 15-40 rooms that are owned and run by various ministries and governmental organisations. Architectural motifs are mosques, palaces and fortresses. Every provincial centre has at least one hotel, but visitors should not expect Western standards of comfort and amenities. The exception is a new hotel which recently opened in Turkmenbashi; however, as it only has 40 rooms, it is advisable to contact a recognised Turkmen tour company for a reservation. Accommodation and services in hotels are payable in local currency or US Dollars.

REST HOUSES: Dom Otdykha (literally ‘rest houses’) were built on the shores of the Caspian Sea by co-operatives and other concerns for fatigued workers. It is sometimes possible for travellers to obtain accommodation in them.

CAMPING: There are campsites on the shores of the Caspian Sea, and the facilities are in the process of being improved.

Introduction

Turkmenistan’s harsh desert conditions and terrain mean that tourism has been relatively undeveloped. Almost all the attractions lie around the fringes of the desert and in ancient ruins such as Merv (now Mary).

ASHGABAT: The capital, on the southern rim of the Kara-Kum desert, is a modern city. It replaced the one founded in 1881, which was destroyed in an earthquake in 1948 that measured 10.5 on the Richter scale, killed 30 per cent of the population and razed the city to the ground. Some of the more recent additions to the capital include the Arch of Neutrality, a 75m-high (246ft) monument with a revolving 12m (39ft) tall golden statue of President Niyazov at its peak. At the base of the monument, there is a cafe and lifts which can be taken to the viewing platforms. Nearby, stands the magnificent white marble Palace of Turkmenbashi, decorated with gold-mirrored glass together with an Islamic-motifed dome. There are a number of museums, including a fine-art museum and the National Museum of Turkmenistan. There is a small carpet museum attached to the carpet factory on ul. Kuragli (formerly Piervomaiskaya), which houses the world’s largest handwoven rug. The Tolkuchka bazaar (Sunday market) in Ashgabat is the best place anywhere to buy Turkmen carpets, misleadingly called Bukhara carpets in the West.

Excursions: Close to Ashgabat are the remains of Old Nisa, the capital of the Parthian kings who ruled from the third century BC to the third century AD over an empire which included Iraq and stretched as far as Syria.

The national horse stud, Turkmenbashi Stud Farm, is 10km (6 miles) from Ashgabat and pure-bred Akhal-Teke horses can be viewed here. Trips are best organised through a local travel agency.

The modern town of Anau, once the site of the destroyed 15th-century city, is 20km (12 miles) east of Ashgabat. The ruins of the famous mosque (revered for its striking mosaic tiles and 8m-long (26ft) dragons) can still be seen.

Chuli is a popular mountain resort reached by taxi or private car through a picturesque gorge. Climbing and hiking trips can be arranged and visitors can stay here.

A pleasant day trip is to Bakharden, 90km (56 miles) west of Ashgabat. The underground mineral lake (known in Turkmen as Kov Ata which means ‘father of lakes’) is fed by hot springs and has a constant temperature of 37°C (97°F). Bathing is permitted although there is an admission fee. Accommodation is not available.


MARY: Due east of Ashgabat, Mary is Turkmenistan’s second city. A large industrial centre, Mary has little to recommend it other than its interesting Regional Museum. However, it lies near the remains of the city of Merv, which was once the second city of Islam and known as the ‘Queen of Cities’ until Ghengis Khan’s son, Toloi, reduced it to rubble and reportedly killed a million of its inhabitants in 1221. The ruins of Merv and of the many that both preceded it and succeeded it are spread over a large area. Most of what remains are the brick-built mausolea of rulers and holy men – including the impressive Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar, completed in 1140. Time, weather and invasions have taken their toll on the mud-built cities of the Turkmen.

DASHGOUZ & KONYE-URGENCH: Dashgouz is the largest city in the northern region of Turkmenistan, on a direct train route, 500km (311 miles) from Ashgabat, across the Kara-Kum desert. Although there are a few places to stay and eat, the main sights lie outside the city. The ruins of Konye-Urgench, an ancient fortress town with relics dating back to the 14th century, are well worth visiting. Entry is approximately US$2, payable in Manat. Things to see include the Kutlug Timur Minaret, one of the tallest minarets in Asia at 67m (220ft) high and built in the 1320s; the Sultan Tekesh, Turabeg Khanym and Najm-ed-din Kubra Mausoleums.

TURKMENBASHI: Situated to the west of Ashgabat, Turkmenbashi was known as Krasnovodsk, but it was renamed in honour of President Saparmurat Niyazov, who has been given the title ‘Turkmenbashi’ or ‘leader of all the Turkmen’. Situated on the shores of the Caspian Sea, it is a Russian creation, built as a bridgehead for the campaign to subdue Central Asia, and later to become the terminal for the Trans-Caspian Railway. There are some panoramic views from the mountainside surrounding the town and visitors can enjoy some good beaches and swimming a little further out of town. The Museum of Regional History and Natural History makes an interesting visit.

The Silk Road

This ancient trading route was used by silk merchants from the second century AD until its decline in the 14th century, and is open in parts to tourists, stretching from northern China, through bleak and foreboding desert and mountainous terrain to the ports on either the Caspian Sea or Mediterranean Sea. For further details of the route, see The Silk Road in the China section.

Among the many silk route attractions worth seeing in Turkmenistan are the vibrant Sunday Tolkuchka market in Ashgabat (selling such wares as traditional carpets, camels and pistachio nuts), the historical silk road cities of Konye-Urgench and Merv (including Kyz-Kala, a windowless castle known locally as the ‘House of the Maiden Tears’ and the mausoleum of Mohammed Ibn-Zeida) and the Kugitang Nature Reserve which reportedly bears impressions of hundreds of dinosaur footprints.

Travel along the silk road can be quite difficult due to the terrain, harsh climate and lack of developed infrastructure. Visitors to the region are advised to travel with an organised tour company or travel agent.


Sport & Activities

Horseriding: Turkmenistan is home to the Akhal-Teke horse, a special breed known for its speed and intelligence. These horses occupy a special place in Turkmen culture and are a source of great national pride. An old Turkmen saying goes, ‘Getting up in the morning, greet your father and then see your horse.’ Rides in the countryside can be arranged through local tour operators or through travel agents specialising in Turkmenistan. The vast open spaces make Turkmenistan very good for riding, though the Akhal-Teke horses are suitable for experienced riders only. Rides can be done just outside Ashgabat through the gorges of the Firuza River and to the local hot springs, and in other parts of the country.

Horseracing: In spring and autumn, horseraces are held at the Hippodrome in Ashgabat, and 10km (6 miles) south of Ashgabat is the Turkmenbashi Stud Farm where the Akhal-Teke horses are bred (see Resorts & Excursions section).

Social Profile

Food & Drink: Turkmen food is similar to that of the rest of Central Asia. There are a number of good Western-standard restaurants in Ashgabat, although they rarely have an extensive menu. Plov – pronounced ‘plof’ – is the staple food for everyday (but is also served at celebrations) and consists of chunks of mutton, shredded yellow turnip and rice fried in a large wok. Shashlyk (skewered chunks of mutton grilled over charcoal – kebabs – which come with raw sliced onions) and lipioshka (rounds of unleavened bread) are served in restaurants and are often sold in the street, but the quality can be variable. Manty are larger noodle dumplings filled with meat. Shorpa is a meat and vegetable soup. There are, however, a number of dishes that are particularly characteristic of Turkmenistan: ka’urma is mutton deep-fried in its own fat and churban churpa is mutton fat dissolved in green tea. Ishkiykli are dough balls filled with meat and onion which are traditionally cooked in sand that has been heated by a fire. On the shores of the Caspian Sea, seafood is often substituted for mutton in traditional dishes such as plov. In the west of Turkmenistan, there is a speciality in which mutton is roasted in a clay oven fired with aromatic woods.
In general, hotel food shows strong Russian influence: borcht is cabbage soup, entrecôte is a well-done steak, cutlet are grilled meat balls, and strogan is the local equivalent of beef Stroganoff. Pirmeni, originating in Ukraine, are small boiled dumplings of meat and vegetables similar to ravioli, sometimes served in a vegetable soup.
Green tea is very popular and can be obtained almost anywhere. Beer, wine, vodka, brandy and sparkling wine (shampanski) are all widely available in restaurants. Kefir, a thick drinking yoghurt, is often served with breakfast.


Nightlife: Ashgabat has an opera and ballet theatre, which shows both Russian and European works and a drama theatre. There are also a few restaurants offering dancing.

Shopping: The Sunday market is the best place in the world to buy the misleadingly named Bukhara rugs, which are actually made in Turkmenistan. There is a shop in the Art Gallery which sells traditional Turkmen handicrafts, silver and costumes including the distinctive Turkmen sheepskin hats. The central bazaar in Ashgabat is a good place to buy food and curiosities. Shopping hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800. Bazaars open at dawn.

Special Events: A number of festivals in Turkmenistan provide interesting spectacles for visitors. The following are a selection of events celebrated in 2003:
Apr 27 Akilteken Day, celebration of the Akilteken horse with parades and races. May 25 Day of the Turkmen Carpet. Sep 14 Bakshi Day, celebration of Turkmen folk singers. Nov 30 Harvest Festival.


Social Conventions: Lipioshka (bread) should never be laid upside down, and it is normal to remove shoes, but not socks, when entering someone’s house. Shorts are rarely seen in Turkmenistan and, worn by females, are likely to provoke unwelcome attention from the local male population.

Business Profile

Economy: Turkmenistan’s economy is predominantly agricultural, despite 90 per cent of the land being occupied by the Kara-Kum desert. Substantial quantities of cotton – the country is the world tenth-largest producer – are also produced under ecologically ruinous schemes established during the Soviet era. Grain, fruit and vegetables are widely grown and livestock breeding is an important source of employment. The other mainstay of the economy and its best prospect for the future is an abundance of oil and natural gas deposits, the scale of which rivals anything in the Persian and Mexican Gulfs. New pipelines are planned to supplement the sole existing one, which transports the products via Russia. Other commercially viable reserves include bromine and iodine salts and various other minerals. Most of Turkmenistan’s industry is devoted to processing the country’s principal raw materials: textiles are a key export industry and much of the extracted oil is refined within the country.
As one of the poorest republics of the former Soviet Union, Turkmenistan suffered considerable economic disruption and hardship after the Union’s demise in 1991; the increasing inability of many of its former partners to pay for its products has also caused serious difficulties. The Government responded by seeking out new markets for its products; in 1992, Turkmenistan joined the IMF and the World Bank, then the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development (as a ‘Country of Operation’) and the Islamic Development Bank. The following year, a new national currency, the Manat, was introduced. In 1996, the Government introduced an economic reform programme aimed at controlling persistent inflation and promoting foreign investment, especially in the oil and gas sector. This has met with some success; inflation is now 14 per cent, while annual growth was 16.5 per cent during 2001. This represents a considerable improvement over the 1993-98 period during which the economy contracted at an average annual rate of 10 per cent. The internal political situation and, more recently, serious political instability in Central Asia have stalled government plans to develop its resources. However, handled properly, these could eventually bring considerable prosperity to the country. Turkmenistan is a member of the Economic Co-operation Organisation, which brings together the former republics of the southern Soviet Union with Romania, Bulgaria, Albania, Greece and Turkey.


Business: The Government is particularly interested in encouraging foreign investment in a number of areas, including oil and gas production and refining; agricultural production and processing (particularly in cotton); consumer goods; export-orientated products; research and development; environmental protection and infrastructure. The Turkmen government has put a number of measures in place to encourage foreign investment. Eight Free Enterprise Economic Zones – one in each of the velayat (regions) – have been created with special incentives for companies that invest in them. These include: no import duties, a three-year tax holiday from the start of production, with a further 13 years of reduced taxes; full-profit repatriation and a swifter licensing procedure. Concerns which are 100 per cent foreign owned must be sited in Free Enterprise Economic Zones, but joint ventures may be set up anywhere. All foreign investments are protected by government guarantee from expropriation. All foreign companies and individuals wishing to invest in Turkmenistan must go through the Commission for International Economic Affairs of the Office of the President of Turkmenistan. Business is conducted formally and smart dress is required. Office hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800.

Commercial Information: The following organisation can offer advice: Chamber of Commerce and Industry, B Karryev Street 17, Ashgabat 744000 (tel: (12) 354 717 or 355 594; fax: 351 352 or 355 381; e-mail: expo@online.tm). Information can also be obtained from the US Department of Commerce, Business Information Service for the Newly Independent States, USA Trade Center, Stop R-Binis, Ronald Reagan Building, 1401 Constitution Avenue, NW, Washington, DC 20230, USA (tel: (202) 482 4655; fax: (202) 482 2293; e-mail: bisnis@ita.doc.gov; website: www.bisnis.doc.gov).

Climate

Turkmenistan has an extreme continental climate: temperatures in Ashgabat vary between 46°C (114°F) in summer and -5°C (23°F) in winter, although it has been known to reach -22°C (-8°F) in extremity. Temperatures in the desert in summer can reach 50°C (122°F) during the day before falling rapidly at night. During the winter, it can reach -10° to -15°C (14° to 15°F).

Required clothing: For those intending to visit the desert in summer, lightweights are vital for the day with warmer clothing for those intending to spend the night in the open. Heavyweights should be taken for winter visits.

History and Government

History: The territory of what is now Turkmenistan provided the bedrock for many of the most powerful empires of their age. The Parthians, the Seljuks and the Khans of Khoresm all based their empires at various points on the edge of the Kara-Kum Desert, while Alexander the Great conquered the region during his epic campaign of the fourth century BC. The influence of Islam dates from the seventh century AD, when the region was under Arab control. Modern-day Turkmen are descended from tribes that migrated to the area in the tenth century from the northeast. Around 300 years later, Genghis Khan arrived from the same direction and incorporated Turkmenistan into his expanding empire. From the 15th century, the area was under Persian domination until the Russian move into Central Asia at the end of the 19th century. Turkmenistan fell into the British sphere of influence but the Bolsheviks took control of the region in 1920 and incorporated Turkmenistan as a union republic in 1925.

Turkmenistan’s ability to embrace the reforms made possible by glasnost and independence have been hampered by its backward economy and, as a result, it retains more of the trappings of the old system than other post-Soviet republics. There have, however, been significant changes – such as the introduction of a new currency – and the framework for further economic change has been put in place. By contrast, politics have changed little since the Soviet era. The current president is Saparmurad Niyazov, who has been given the honorific title of Turkmenbashi – leader of all Turkmen. He was elected (as the sole candidate) as president in 1990, having been leader of the Turkmenistan Communist Party since 1985 and Chairman of the Supreme Soviet since 1990. In a referendum in 1994, Niyazov was confirmed as president.

In 1993, the Majlis (see Government) approved a motion to extend Niyazov’s term of office beyond 1997 until 2002. Then, in 1999, it decided to make him president for life. ‘Turkmenbashi’ has evolved a cult of personality to rival any in the world – it has reportedly extended to renaming calendar months in honour of him and assorted relatives. Opposition is quickly and brutally suppressed, especially in the wake of a reported assassination attempt against Niyazov in late 2002. This peculiar and unpleasant regime is tolerated by the international community for two main reasons – the country’s strategic position and its enormous (and, as yet, largely undeveloped) reserves of oil, gas and precious metals.

Abroad, Turkmenistan has forged strong economic and political links with Turkey and Iran, within the framework of what the government calls ‘permanent neutrality’. The country also retains close links with the Russian Federation. And since the US-led war against the Taleban regime in Afghanistan, its strategic position – like that of its neighbour Tajikistan – has been immeasurably strengthened, as it has become a staging post for materiel and humanitarian aid in Central Asia. For their part, the Turkmens are looking to a new stable Afghanistan as a possible route for the export of their oil and gas deposits.


Government: Under the terms of the constitution adopted in 1993, the Turkmen government is headed by an executive president, who is also Chairman of the Council of Ministers. The Council of Ministers carries out the day-to-day running of the country. The supreme legislative body is the 50-member Majlis, which is directly elected for five years. The Majlis deputies also sit on the Khalk Maslakhaly (literally People’s Council), which includes 60 other elected representatives, members of the Council of Ministers and is chaired by the president.


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