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Tobago
Tobago is very different from her sister isle 32km (20 miles) away. It is a tranquil island with calm waters and vast stretches of white sand beaches. In the east, the volcanic part of the island is precipitous and heavily wooded, with the oldest protected rainforest in the western hemisphere. The island is so beautiful and fertile that just about every western European colonial power has fought to have it.
SCARBOROUGH: The capital, Scarborough, has many quaint houses which spill down from the hilltop to the waterside, as well as interesting Botanical Gardens. It is overshadowed by the Fort King George built in 1779 during the many struggles between the French and the English, an excellent point from which to view the sunset. The Court House built in 1825 is today used as the meeting place for the Tobago House of Assembly, while Tobago Museum showcases artefacts from Tobago's early American Indian and colonial days.
EXCURSIONS: There are a number of fine beaches throughout the island, each with their own flavour. They include Pigeon Point on the northwest coast (admission is charged for use of facilities); Store Bay and Turtle Beach, where brown pelicans can be seen diving into the waters to catch fish; Man O’War Bay, at the opposite end of the island, and Mount Irvine and Bacolet Bays. It is worth remembering that there is no such thing as a private beach in Trinidad & Tobago, and though some hotels discourage the use of their facilities, most do not mind unless they are very busy, especially if you use their bar and beach restaurants. Many beaches have public facilities. Buccoo Reef is an extensive coral reef lying a mile offshore from Pigeon Point. Excursions can be made in glass-bottomed boats and it is an excellent place for snorkelling. These trips run from Store Bay or Pigeon Point, leaving every day at around 1100.
At Fort James, there is a well-maintained red brick building, and at Whim, a large plantation house. Arnos Vale Hotel is a former sugar plantation, now a hotel; a disused sugar mill fitted out with formidable crushing wheels, made in 1857, is still on the grounds. Englishman’s Bay is an excellent place for a day trip. Birdwatching is a favourite pastime here. The hotel offers tea to non-residents during the late afternoon on the balcony above the gardens. This is a must for birdwatchers and needs to be booked by phone first.
ELSEWHERE: The fishing village of Plymouth has a mystery tombstone with inscriptions dating from 1700. Charlotteville is a fishing town commanding precipitous views of the headlands. Looming above the town is Pigeon Peak, the highest point on the island. There are good swimming beaches, including Pirate’s Bay, which can only be reached by boat. Tobago Forest Reserve in the east has many trails which provide excellent long hikes for the more active visitor. On the Atlantic (windward) side of the island are many tiny villages including Mesopotamia and Goldsborough, the town of Roxborough and several beautiful bays. Speyside is a colourful beach settlement, from which can be seen tiny Goat Island and Little Tobago, a 450-acre (182 hectares) bird sanctuary. Speyside offers excellent snorkelling and scuba diving. Windward (Atlantic) beaches are wilder but just as picturesque as those on the Caribbean. On the north coast are the beautiful villages of Castara and Parlatuvier.
Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.
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