Trinidad and Tobago
Overview

Country Overview
Trinidad & Tobago lie off the Venezuelan coast. Along the north of Trinidad runs the Northern Range of mountains, looming over the country’s capital, Port of Spain. On the north and east coasts lie beautiful beaches. Port of Spain, surrounded by lush green hills, is the capital and business hub of oil-rich Trinidad. Bazaars throng beneath modern skyscrapers and mosques rub shoulders with cathedrals. San Fernando is the island’s second town and the main commercial centre in the south. Close by is the fascinating natural phenomenon of the Pitch Lake, a 90-acre (36.4 hectares) lake of asphalt which constantly replenishes itself. Tobago is very different from her sister isle 32km (20 miles) away. It is a tranquil island with calm waters and a number of fine beaches, each with their own flavour. They include Pigeon Point on the southwest coast. Buccoo Reef, an extensive coral reef, lies offshore. Excursions can be made in glass-bottomed boats and it is an excellent place for snorkelling. Local dishes include quenk (wild pig) and pastelles (meat folded into cornmeal and wrapped in a banana leaf). Trinidad has a wide and varied nightlife including nightclubs with calypso, limbo dancers and steel bands. In Tobago, the main Calypsonians from Trinidad travel over to perform at Shaw Park, Scarborough and Roxborough.

General Information

Area: 5128 sq km (1980 sq miles).

Population: 1,294,000 (2000).

Population Density: 252.3 per sq km.

Capital: Port of Spain. Population: 43,396 (1996).

GEOGRAPHY: Trinidad and her tiny sister island of Tobago lie off the Venezuelan coast. Along the north of Trinidad runs the Northern Range of mountains, looming over the country’s capital, Port of Spain. South of Port of Spain on the west coast the terrain is low, and the Caroni Swamps contain a magnificent bird sanctuary largely inhabited by the scarlet ibis. On the north and east coasts lie beautiful beaches. Central Trinidad is flat and largely given over to agriculture.

Government: Republic. Gained independence from the UK in 1962. Head of State: President Arthur Robinson since 1997. Head of Government: Prime Minister Patrick Manning since 2001.

Language: The official language is English. French, Spanish, Hindi and Chinese are also spoken.

Religion: Thirty per cent Roman Catholic, 24 per cent Hindu, 11 per cent Anglican, 29 per cent other Christian denominations and six per cent Muslim.

Time: GMT - 4.

Electricity: 110/220 volts AC, 60Hz. US pattern twin plus earth plugs are standard, though variations may be found.

Communications:  

Telephone

IDD is available. Country code: 1 868. Outgoing international code: 01. There are no area codes. In Tobago, international telephone calls can be made from the TSTT building on Wilson Road in Scarborough. Many public phone booths take phonecards which can be bought from local shops and the TSTT building.

Mobile telephone

Digital and analogue networks (not compatible with GSM handsets) are operated by TSTT Cellnet (tel: 800 CELL; fax: 625 5807/9). Dual mode handsets are necessary, and can be hired from TSTT Cellnet on a short- or long-term basis. Coverage is currently available in most of Trinidad & Tobago.

Fax

Widely available in hotels. In Tobago, faxes can also be sent from the TSTT building on Wilson Road in Scarborough.

Internet

ISPs include TSTT Internet Services (website: www.tstt.co.tt). There are numerous Internet cafes on the islands.

Telegram

Port of Spain has good facilities in Independence Square and Edward Street. Cables can also be sent from hotels and the airport.

Post

The main post office is on Wrightson Road, Port of Spain. Airmail to Western Europe takes up to two weeks; incoming mail can take much longer. The main post office in Tobago is in Market Square, Scarborough.

Press

English-language dailies include The Trinidad Guardian, Trinidad & Tobago Express and Newsday. As well as these dailies and numerous weekly publications, Tobago has its own weekly paper, Tobago News.

BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change.

BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice):

MHz15.1912.106.1955.975


Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov):

MHz13.799.4556.1305.995


Passport/Visa

 Passport Required?Visa Required?Return Ticket Required?
BritishYes1Yes
AustralianYesYesYes
CanadianYes2Yes
USAYes2Yes
OtherEUYes1Yes
JapaneseYesYesYes


PASSPORTS: Valid passport required by all persons aged 16 years and over. Passport must be valid at least for the duration of stay.

Note: All visitors must be in possession of a valid return ticket to their country of residence or citizenship and sufficient funds to maintain themselves whilst in Trinidad & Tobago.

VISAS: Required by all except:
(a) 1. nationals of EU countries for stays not exceeding three months;
(b) 2. nationals of Canada and the USA for stays not exceeding three months;
(c) nationals of Commonwealth countries except Australia, Brunei, Cameroon, Fiji, India, Mozambique, Namibia, New Zealand, Nigeria, Pakistan, Papua New Guinea, South Africa, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, and Uganda for stays not exceeding three months;
(d) nationals of French Guiana, Guadeloupe, Martinique, Netherlands Antilles and Surinam;
(e) nationals of Brazil, Colombia, Israel, Liechtenstein, Norway, Switzerland and Turkey for stays not exceeding three months;
(f) nationals of Venezuela arriving from Venezuela for stays not exceeding 14 days;
(g) nationals of Korea (Rep) for stays not exceeding 90 days.


Types of visa: Tourist: £8.50. Business (multiple-entry): £8.50 per entry.

Validity: Three months.

Application requirements: (a) Completed application form. (b) One passport-size photograph. (c) Valid passport. (d) Letter of invitation or evidence of hotel booking. (e) Letter from employer. (f) Fee.

Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy or High Commission); see Contact Addresses section.

Working days required: Tourist visas will normally be issued within five working days. Applications from the following nationals may take up to ten days: Albania, Bosnia-Herzegovina, China, Croatia, Cuba, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, India, Korea (Dem Rep), Nigeria, Slovenia, Vietnam and Yugoslavia (Serbia and Montenegro).

Temporary residence: Enquire at Embassy or High Commission.

Money

Currency: Trinidad & Tobago Dollar (TT$) = 100 cents. Notes are in denominations of TT$100, 20, 10, 5 and 1. Coins are in denominations of TT$1, and 50, 25, 10, 5 and 1 cents.

Currency exchange: Foreign currency can only be exchanged at authorised banks and some hotels. There are ATMs taking cash cards and credit cards in both Trinidad and Tobago (Scarborough only).

Credit & debit cards: MasterCard, Diners Club, American Express and Visa are accepted by most banks, shops and tourist facilities. Many traders charge five per cent for the use of credit cards. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services which may be available.

Travellers cheques: These are very widely accepted and will often prove the most convenient means of transaction. Banks charge a fee for exchanging travellers cheques. Check for the best rates. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in US Dollars or Pounds Sterling.

Currency restrictions: The import of local currency is unlimited, provided declared on arrival. The export of local currency is limited to TT$200. There is free import of foreign currency, subject to declaration. The export of foreign currency is limited to the amount declared on entry.

Exchange rate indicators
The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Trinidad & Tobago Dollar against Sterling and the US Dollar:


DateMay ’02Aug ’02Nov ’02Feb ’03
£1.00=8.909.099.749.89
$1.00=6.115.986.166.22


Banking hours: Mon-Thurs 0800-1400, Fri 0900-1200 and 1500-1700.

Duty Free

The following goods may be imported into Trinidad & Tobago by persons over 17 years of age without incurring customs duty:
200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco; 1.5l of wine or spirits in opened bottles; a reasonable quantity of perfume; gifts up to the value of US$200.


Public Holidays

Dec 6-8 2002 Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan). Dec 25-26 Christmas. Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Mar 3 Carnival Monday. Mar 30 Spiritual Baptist Shouters’ Liberation Day. Apr 18 Good Friday. Apr 21 Easter Monday. May 30 Indian Arrival Day. Jun 19 Corpus Christi and Labour Day. Aug 1 Emancipation Day. Aug 31 Independence Day. Oct 25 Divali. Nov 26-28 Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan). Dec 25-26 Christmas. Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Feb 23 Carnival Monday. Mar 30 Spiritual Baptist Shouters’ Liberation Day. Apr 9 Good Friday. Apr 12 Easter Monday. May 30 Indian Arrival Day. Jun 10 Corpus Christi. Jun 19 Labour Day. Aug 1 Emancipation Day. Aug 31 Independence Day. Nov 12 Divali. Nov 14-16 Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan). Dec 25-26 Christmas.

Note: (a) Muslim festivals are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximations. During the lunar month of Ramadan that precedes Eid al-Fitr, Muslims fast during the day and feast at night and normal business patterns may be interrupted. However, since Trinidad & Tobago is not a predominantly Muslim country, restrictions (which travellers may experience elsewhere) are unlikely to cause problems. (b) Hindu festivals are declared according to local astronomical observations and variations may occur.

Health

 Special PrecautionsCertificate Required
Yellow FeverNo1
CholeraNoNo
Typhoid and PolioNoN/A
MalariaNoN/A


1: A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from travellers over one year of age arriving from infected areas.

Food & drink: Mains water in Tobago is safe to drink, though bottled water is available in supermarkets. Drinking water outside main cities and towns may be contaminated and sterilisation is advisable. Milk is pasteurised and dairy products are safe for consumption. Local meat, poultry, seafood, fruit and vegetables throughout both islands are generally safe to eat. The authorities advise caution, however, during carnival time when buying food from the ‘hawker’ stalls in Port of Spain.

Other risks: Hepatitis A occurs. Mosquitoes can be inconvenient anywhere just before and after dusk. Visitors are advised to carry insect repellant and bite cream. Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. Bats are a problem as far as the transmission of rabies is concerned. For more information, consult the Health appendix.

Health care: Although there is no reciprocal health agreement with the UK, public sector health care is free. However, health insurance is recommended as Tobago’s health care provision is basic, with limited supplies and medication.

Travel - International

AIR: Trinidad & Tobago’s national airline is BWIA (BW), which flies to other Caribbean islands and to several towns on the North and South American coasts. BWIA operates frequent services from London (Heathrow), Miami and New York to Port of Spain. There are weekly flights from London (Gatwick) direct to Tobago on British Airways (BA). Other airlines serving Trinidad & Tobago include Condor (from Frankfurt/M), American Eagle (from Puerto Rico), Aeropostal (from Venezuela), Air Canada, American Airlines and ALM Antillean Airlines. LIAT, Air Caribbean and Caribbean Star also offer inter-Caribbean flights.

Approximate flight times: From Port of Spain to Barbados is 50 minutes. From Port of Spain to London the BWIA flight takes 10 hours (with a further 30-minute flight to Crown Point, Tobago); to New York the flight time is 6 hours 30 minutes and to St Lucia 2 hours 10 minutes (including stop at Barbados).

International airports: Port of Spain (POS) (Piarco) is 25km (16 miles) east of the city. Buses are available to the city (travel time – 25 minutes). There are taxis to the city for hotels throughout the island with set fares posted in taxis. Fares increase after midnight. Sharing taxis is an accepted practice. Airport facilities include duty-free shops (24 hours), banks, ATMs, car hire, restaurants, light refreshments, shops and tourist information.
Crown Point (TAB) is 13km (8 miles) from Scarborough and very close to most of the main hotels. Taxis are available (prices for standard journeys are published in the airport arrival lounge). Airport facilities include a bank, shops, restaurant, duty-free shop, snack and car hire.
For more information on airports, contact the Airports Authority of Trinidad and Tobago (website: www.tntairports.com).


Departure tax: TT$100 (payable in local currency only). Transit passengers and children under five years of age are exempt.

SEA: The main ports are Port of Spain, Point-à-Pierre and Point Lisas. Cruise lines that stop at Port of Spain include Princess and Silversea.

Travel - Internal

AIR: Every day there are flights every two hours run by Air Caribbean (C2) from Piarco (Port of Spain) to Tobago (Crown Point). During peak seasons (especially Carnival time), these are often heavily booked. The service runs till around 2000 in the evening. Tobago Express also links Tobago and Port of Spain.

SEA: There is a regular car ferry/passenger service from Port of Spain to Tobago (Scarborough) (travel time – approximately 6 hours). The day journey (from Port of Spain around 1400) gives a good view of the two islands, but the night journey (from Scarborough around 2300) can be uncomfortable. Ferry fares are around TT$160 (return). Return by plane to Port of Spain is recommended.

ROAD: Traffic drives on the left. The road network in Trinidad between major towns is good, but traffic around Port of Spain can be difficult during rush hour and around Independence Square at any time. Two major highways run north–south and east–west. Roads which run off major routes can be very unpredictable, and are susceptible to poor weather conditions. In Tobago, the roads, though narrow in parts, are improving dramatically and most of the island is easy to reach. There is a major highway (Claude Noel Highway) running west–east. Tourists should have no qualms about driving around Tobago at any time of the day or night, although caution should be exercised in more rural areas where chickens and sheep may wander across roads. Hand signals, which may be unfamiliar, are often used. Bus: Services are operated by the state Public Service Corporation (PTSC). In the absence of a railway, the main towns are served by bus but although these are cheap, they are crowded and unreliable. The use of shared taxis has increased due to the shortcomings of the bus network; these are available both outside and within Port of Spain. In Tobago, there are regular bus services between Scarborough bus station and Crown Point, Buccoo, Plymouth and Roxborough. Taxi: All official taxis have registration ‘H’. Hiring a private taxi is much more expensive but gives the freedom to go where you like. Though there are fixed rates for certain journeys, it is best to establish this before you start your journey. The quickest and most cost-effective way to get around is by Route taxis and Maxi taxis which serve standard routes within Trinidad, particularly around Port of Spain, starting their route from in or near Independence Square. These have fixed rates. In Tobago, Route taxis (H registered and unregistered) are plentiful along most major routes during the day and can be stopped anywhere along them. Drivers will indicate they have room by sounding their horn. Car hire: Cars and motorcycles are available in Port of Spain or Scarborough, and can be arranged via hotels and in Tobago at the airport or through the hotels. Trailbikes are becoming more popular in Tobago, but mopeds are more advisable for the inexperienced rider. Bicycle hire: In Tobago, there are a number of places in the Lowlands (south-east) where you can hire bicycles. Documentation: Visitors in possession of a valid driving permit issued in any of the countries listed below may drive in Trinidad & Tobago for a period of up to three months. They are, however, entitled to drive only a motor vehicle of the class specified on their permit. Drivers must at all times have in their possession: (a) their International Driving Permit or equivalent; and (b) any travel document on which is certified their date of arrival in Trinidad & Tobago. Visitors whose stay exceeds the three-month period are requested to apply to the Licensing Department, Wrightson Road, Port of Spain, for a local Driving Permit. The above information applies to all signatories to the Convention on International Driver’s Permits including the USA, Canada, France, the UK, Germany and the Bahamas. Excluded: China, South Africa and Vietnam, whose nationals require a passport, International Driving Permit and national licence.

URBAN: Owing to the deterioration of bus services, most public transport journeys in Port of Spain are now made by shared taxis (see above). The Tourism and Industrial Development Company Ltd publishes a list of fares for standard routes (see Contact Addresses section).

Accommodation

HOTELS: There are major international chain hotels in Port of Spain, and a number of smaller hotels in the surrounding areas. In Tobago, there is a growing number of international-standard resort hotels as well as many smaller private hotels and guest-houses. There is a wide range of prices. For further information, contact the Trinidad Hotels, Restaurants and Tourism Association (see Contact Addresses section) or organise your accommodation after arriving in Port of Spain or Tobago. A ten per cent government room tax and VAT are levied.

GUEST-HOUSES: The Tourism and Industrial Development Company Ltd publishes a list of guest-houses found throughout Trinidad & Tobago.

HOUSES/APARTMENTS: There is a growing number of apartments and houses available for rent in Tobago, ranging from the very luxurious to the plain and simple. Though many are located in the west in the main tourist part of the island around Crown Point and Shirvan Road, there are many other more secluded and unspoilt areas where there are properties of all standards to rent. Information is available from local sources.

Note: All types of accommodation must be booked well in advance for the Carnival (see Social Profile section).

Trinidad

PORT OF SPAIN: The home of carnival, steel bands, calypso and limbo dancing, Trinidad & Tobago’s blend of different cultures gives them an air of cosmopolitan excitement. Port of Spain, surrounded by the lush green hills of the Northern Range, is the capital and business hub of oil-rich Trinidad. The city captures the variety of Trinidadian life, with bazaars thronging beneath modern skyscrapers and mosques rubbing shoulders with cathedrals. The architecture of the city incorporates a mixture of styles: these include Victorian houses with gingerbread fretwork; the German Renaissance Queen’s Royal College; Stollmeyer’s Castle, an imitation of a Bavarian Castle; the President of the Republic’s residence and the Prime Minister’s office at Whitehall (both built in Moorish style); and the 19th-century Gothic Holy Trinity Cathedral. Places of interest include the shopping district centred on Frederick Street; the Royal Botanic Gardens; the Red House (a stately colonial building now the seat of government) and the National Museum and Art Gallery.

EXCURSIONS: There is a magnificent park just to the north of the capital and within walking distance, Queen’s Park Savannah is spread out at the foot of the Northern Range. A mixture of natural and man-made beauty, with attractive trees and shrubs (including the African Tulip, or ‘Flame of the Forest’), it forms a backdrop to playing fields and elaborate mansions, now mostly government offices and embassies.

On the outskirts of the city is Fort George. Built in 1804, it offers an excellent view of Port of Spain and the mountains of northern Venezuela.

Maracas Bay, Las Cuevas and Chaguaramas are the nearest beaches to Port of Spain. Maracas tends to be the place to go after Carnival has finished. Approximately 13km (8 miles) to the south of the capital by road and boat is the Caroni Bird Sanctuary, home of the Scarlet Ibis. The Diego Mountain Valley, 16km (10 miles) from Port of Spain, contains one of the island’s most beautiful water wheels.


ELSEWHERE: In the rapidly expanding town of Chaguanas, it is possible to sample a wide range of West Indian culinary specialities, particularly East Indian fare. Arima, the third largest town on the island, has an Amerindian Museum at the Cleaver Woods Recreation Centre in the west of town and the nation’s new horseracing track. About 13km (8 miles) north is the Asa Wright Nature Centre at Blanchisseuse, containing a collection of rare specimens such as the Oilbird or Guacharo. The Aripo Caves are noted for their stalactites and stalagmites. Asa Wright is a must for birdwatching enthusiasts. There is a good hotel there, but rooms are limited and need to be booked well in advance.

On the east coast is Valencia, a lush tropical forest near the Hollis Reservoir. Cocal and Mayaro are also worth visiting. San Fernando is the island’s second town and the main commercial centre in the south. Close by is the fascinating natural phenomenon of the Pitch Lake, a 90-acre (36.4 hectares) lake of asphalt which constantly replenishes itself.


Tobago

Tobago is very different from her sister isle 32km (20 miles) away. It is a tranquil island with calm waters and vast stretches of white sand beaches. In the east, the volcanic part of the island is precipitous and heavily wooded, with the oldest protected rainforest in the western hemisphere. The island is so beautiful and fertile that just about every western European colonial power has fought to have it.

SCARBOROUGH: The capital, Scarborough, has many quaint houses which spill down from the hilltop to the waterside, as well as interesting Botanical Gardens. It is overshadowed by the Fort King George built in 1779 during the many struggles between the French and the English, an excellent point from which to view the sunset. The Court House built in 1825 is today used as the meeting place for the Tobago House of Assembly, while Tobago Museum showcases artefacts from Tobago's early American Indian and colonial days.

EXCURSIONS: There are a number of fine beaches throughout the island, each with their own flavour. They include Pigeon Point on the northwest coast (admission is charged for use of facilities); Store Bay and Turtle Beach, where brown pelicans can be seen diving into the waters to catch fish; Man O’War Bay, at the opposite end of the island, and Mount Irvine and Bacolet Bays. It is worth remembering that there is no such thing as a private beach in Trinidad & Tobago, and though some hotels discourage the use of their facilities, most do not mind unless they are very busy, especially if you use their bar and beach restaurants. Many beaches have public facilities. Buccoo Reef is an extensive coral reef lying a mile offshore from Pigeon Point. Excursions can be made in glass-bottomed boats and it is an excellent place for snorkelling. These trips run from Store Bay or Pigeon Point, leaving every day at around 1100.

At Fort James, there is a well-maintained red brick building, and at Whim, a large plantation house. Arnos Vale Hotel is a former sugar plantation, now a hotel; a disused sugar mill fitted out with formidable crushing wheels, made in 1857, is still on the grounds. Englishman’s Bay is an excellent place for a day trip. Birdwatching is a favourite pastime here. The hotel offers tea to non-residents during the late afternoon on the balcony above the gardens. This is a must for birdwatchers and needs to be booked by phone first.


ELSEWHERE: The fishing village of Plymouth has a mystery tombstone with inscriptions dating from 1700. Charlotteville is a fishing town commanding precipitous views of the headlands. Looming above the town is Pigeon Peak, the highest point on the island. There are good swimming beaches, including Pirate’s Bay, which can only be reached by boat. Tobago Forest Reserve in the east has many trails which provide excellent long hikes for the more active visitor. On the Atlantic (windward) side of the island are many tiny villages including Mesopotamia and Goldsborough, the town of Roxborough and several beautiful bays. Speyside is a colourful beach settlement, from which can be seen tiny Goat Island and Little Tobago, a 450-acre (182 hectares) bird sanctuary. Speyside offers excellent snorkelling and scuba diving. Windward (Atlantic) beaches are wilder but just as picturesque as those on the Caribbean. On the north coast are the beautiful villages of Castara and Parlatuvier.

Sport & Activities

Watersports: There are good facilities for all types of watersports, especially at the beaches along the north and east coasts of Trinidad, and all around Tobago. Buccoo Reef, just off the southwest coast of Tobago, and Speyside offer exciting scuba diving with magnificent coral formations and abundant marine life. Trips in glass-bottomed boats are very popular. Tobago has some of the finest reefs in the Caribbean and many scuba schools located at Store Bay and Speyside.

Fishing: All kinds of fishing – from deep-sea to inland – are widely available and usually rewarding on and off both islands. Kingfish, Spanish mackerel, wahoo, bonito, dolphin fish and yellow tuna are the usual catches, with grouper, salmon and snapper also to be found off the west and north coasts of Trinidad. In Tobago, there is an increasing number of boats available for hire.

Birdwatching and wildlife: These islands have a unique wealth of wild birds and flowers, butterflies and fish, mostly undisturbed, yet accessible. The island boasts no less than 622 species of butterfly and over 700 species of orchid. The latter are perhaps best seen in Trinidad’s Botanic Gardens in Port of Spain (along with a wide selection of indigenous trees, shrubs, ferns and cacti). The Emperor Valley Zoo has a similarly representative selection of local wildlife – reptile as well as mammal. Birdwatchers on Trinidad should head for the Nariva Swamp, the Aripo Savannah and the Asa Wright Nature Centre and look out in particular for the national bird, the scarlet ibis, conserved in the Caroni Bird Sanctuary. The sight of these scarlet birds flying in formation to roost before sundown is a stunning and colourful spectacle. While on Tobago a visit to Little Tobago Island is recommended, particularly if you’re keen on birds. Boats leave from Speyside. Hummingbirds are ubiquitous on Tobago; there are 19 recorded species, seven of which are unique to the island. There are specialist birdwatching tours and nature trips available, details of which can be provided by any hotel.

Other: Golf can be enjoyed just outside Port of Spain (Maraval) or in Tobago at the marvellous Mount Irvine Golf Course, former host to the Johnny Walker Pro Am. Cricket is the major spectator sport and the season runs from February to June. The best national and international matches can be seen at the Queen’s Park Oval, in Port of Spain. Trinidadians are keen on racing, and the Arima Velodrome hosts a number of major meetings, particularly around New Year and Easter. It is possible to bet on all English and much US racing in any of the racepools in Port of Spain and Scarborough.

Social Profile

Food & Drink: Bars and restaurants open until late, with a very wide choice of local and Western food and drink. Chinese, Indian and West Indian cooking is available on both islands. Tobago also offers some notable seafood specialities such as lobster, conch and dumplings, crab and dumplings, and all types of fried fish. Local dishes include pilau rice and Creole soups, the best being sans coche, calaloo and peppery pigeon pea soup. Tatoo, manicou, pork souse, green salad, tum-tum (mashed green plantains), roast venison, lappe (island rabbit), quenk (wild pig), wild duck and pastelles (meat folded into cornmeal and wrapped in a banana leaf – a speciality generally available over Christmas) are also well worth trying if you can. Seafood in Trinidad includes bean-sized oysters and chip-chip (tiny shellfish similar in taste to clams). Crab malete is excellent, as is the freshwater fish cascadou. Indian dishes on both islands include roti (dahlpuri bread stuffed with chicken, fish, goat or vegetables), palhouri and hot curries.
Excellent rums and Angostura bitters are used to make rum punch. The local beers are Carib and Stag.


Nightlife: Trinidad has a wide and varied nightlife including hotel entertainment and nightclubs with calypso, limbo dancers and steel bands. During the carnival season (from New Year to Carnival, held two days before Ash Wednesday), both islands are alive with live music in the calypso tents and pan (steel band) yards. In Tobago, the main Calypsonians from Trinidad travel over to perform at Shaw Park, Scarborough and Roxborough. There is something happening most nights of the week at this time – details available from the locals and the Tobago News.

Shopping: Goods from all over the world can be found in Port of Spain, but local goods are always available. Special purchases include Calypso records, steel drums, leather bags and sandals, ceramics and woodcarvings. Gold and silver jewellery can be good value, as can Indian silks and fabrics. Rum should also be considered. Bright, printed fabrics and other summer garments are available in Trinidad & Tobago, particularly in Port of Spain. Shopping hours: Mon-Thurs 0800-1600, Fri 0800-1800 and Sat 0800-1300. Some shops stay open later in Port of Spain, and malls are often open till 2100. Shops close on public holidays, especially during Carnival.

Special Events: A vast mixture of races has led to a varied cultural life, the diversity of which is reflected in costume, religion, architecture, music, dance and place names.
The major event in Trinidad is the Carnival, renowned throughout the Caribbean and the rest of the world. The festivities climax at the beginning of Lent, on the two days immediately preceding Ash Wednesday, although the run-up to Carnival starts immediately after Christmas when the Calypso tents open and the Calypsonians perform their latest compositions and arrangements. During Carnival, normal life grinds to a halt and the whole of Trinidad & Tobago is absorbed in the festivities.
A week before the Carnival proper, Panorama is staged. This is the Grand Steel Drum (pan) tournament; all the big steel bands parade their skills around the Savannah, the large park in the north of Port of Spain. The Panorama preliminaries and local finals in Tobago are worth visiting, as are the pan yards as the bands practise for the big event.
Hosay, coinciding with the Muslim New Year, sees the Muslim population of Port of Spain, San Fernando and Tunapuna take to the streets in a festival of their own. Contact the Tourism and Industrial Development Company Ltd (see Contact Addresses section) for dates of all of the above. The following is a selection of festivals and other special events celebrated in 2003:
Feb/Mar Carnival. Mar 30 Phagwa Hindu Festival. Apr 6-30 Festival of Rapso and the Oral Traditions. Apr 30 Hosay Muslim Cultural Festival. May 11-16 Angostura Yachting Regatta. Jul 16-Aug 1 Tobago Heritage Festival, Tobago. Aug 24 Santa Rosa Festival, Arima. Sep Parang Festival. Oct 25 Divali Festival of Light.


Social Conventions: Liming, or talking for talking’s sake, is a popular pastime, as is chatting about, watching and playing cricket. Many local attitudes are often reflected in the lyrics of the calypso, the accepted medium for political and social satire since pre-emancipation days. Hospitality is important and entertaining is commonly done at home. Casual wear is usual, with shirt sleeves generally accepted for business and social gatherings, but beachwear is not worn in towns. Tipping: Most hotels and guest-houses add ten per cent service charge to the bill, otherwise a ten to 15 per cent tip is usual in hotels and restaurants.

Business Profile

Economy: The oil and gas industry has been the most important in Trinidad & Tobago for some time. It had been in long-term decline from the 1980s due to falling yields and low world prices. More recently, however, new discoveries, increased foreign investment and a mild hike in world prices are reversing the trend. Apart from oil and gas, Trinidad has the world’ largest deposits of asphalt; a major expansion of this industry was launched in 1991. The agricultural sector is small, with sugar cane, coffee, cocoa and citrus fruits as the main commodities. Once a net exporter of foodstuffs, Trinidad now imports the bulk of its requirements. The non-oil industrial sector is concentrated in relatively new industries established with oil and gas revenues, such as plastics and electronics.
The Government has also sought to address historic under-investment in the tourism industry, a promising part of the economy which has undergone steady growth. The islands now cater to over a quarter of a million visitors annually. Trinidad & Tobago formerly had the most heavily regulated economy in the region but the state-controlled edifice was dismantled during the 1990s as part of an IMF-approved package of privatisation, fiscal and trade liberalisation. The external debt has been substantially reduced while growth and inflation are both at manageable levels (5.2 and 3.8 per cent respectively); unemployment has been cut to 13 per cent from higher levels during the 1990s. As ever, this was achieved at the cost of reductions in social provision and lower than average incomes for the bulk of the population. Trinidad & Tobago is a member of the Caribbean trading bloc, CARICOM. The country’s main trading partners are Jamaica, Barbados and Guyana in the region and, further afield, the UK, the USA, Canada, Brazil and Germany.


Business: Lightweight suits or ‘shirt jacks’ should be worn. It is normal to shake hands and exchange business cards. The best time to visit is from December to April, except during the Christmas festivities. Office hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1600.

Commercial Information: The following organisation can offer advice: Trinidad and Tobago Chamber of Industry and Commerce (Inc), Columbus Circle, Westmoorings, Trinidad. PO Box 499, Port of Spain (tel: 637 6966; fax: 637 7425; e-mail: chamber@chamber.org.tt; website: www.chamber.org.tt).

Climate

The tropical climate is tempered by northeast trade winds. The dry season is from November to May, but it is hottest between June and October. The climate in Tobago is pleasant most of the year and although May, June and July can be wet at times, the differentiation between the wet and dry seasons is much less acute.

Required clothing: Tropical lightweights are required. Rainwear is advisable, especially for the wet season.

History and Government

History: The history of Trinidad & Tobago is one of invasion and conquest since its discovery by Christopher Columbus, who claimed it for Spain, in 1498. A Spanish colony was founded on Trinidad in 1532 but was destroyed by Sir Walter Raleigh in 1595. The Spanish recovered their possession and held on to it until 1797, when it was captured by a British naval expedition. Trinidad was formally ceded to the British crown under the treaty of Amiens in 1802. Tobago was raided and settled by the Dutch in the 1630s and they introduced sugar cane to the island. The French – with the Spanish as their allies on this occasion – took over in 1781, expanding sugar production using slave labour. The British took possession of Tobago in 1814, after the Napoleonic wars. In 1888, Tobago was amalgamated with Trinidad and administered as a single colony thereafter.

Reforms began after World War II, with the introduction of adult suffrage in 1945. The British sponsored the West Indies Federation as a potential post-colonial model, in the belief that most of the Caribbean islands would be unable to survive politically or economically on their own. The Caribbean peoples thought otherwise and the Federation collapsed in the early 1960s. By this time, Trinidad & Tobago had already been granted internal self-government and achieved full independence in 1962. The islands’ leading political figure for the next two decades was Eric Williams, who served as prime minister from independence until his death in 1981. His party, the People’s National Movement (PNM), has dominated the country’s politics since independence, winning every general election from independence until the mid-1980s.

The PNM’s main support comes from the Afro-Caribbean population. However, during the mid-1980s, the nation’s other ethnic groups, especially those of South Asian origin – descendants of those transported as indentured labour to work the sugar plantations in the 19th century – became more involved in politics and began to pose a threat to the hegemony of the PNM. And so, at the 1986 general election, the three-year-old National Alliance for Reconstruction (NAR), a coalition of four opposition parties under the leadership of Arthur Robinson, formed a government for the first time. The Robinson government took Trinidad into the Caribbean Common Market (CARICOM) in 1988, although the benefits were more than offset by the unfortunate, simultaneous collapse of oil prices, which cut government revenues and plunged the country into recession.

Over the next two years, popular discontent with the government was greater than normal but by no means a serious threat. The attempted coup of July 1990, staged by a 100-strong group of Islamic extremists, thus came as a considerable surprise, although it was comfortably suppressed after five days. Militant Islam has since played no role in the country’s politics and although voters now tend to divide along ethnic lines, there is minimal political violence of the type seen in Jamaica or Guyana. However, the NAR was fatally damaged by the incident and, in December 1991, it was heavily defeated at the polls by the PNM, under Patrick Manning. It has since been wiped out – even in its Tobago stronghold – as an electoral force.

The 1990s saw the rise of the predominantly Asian United National Congress (UNC), under the leadership of Basdeo Panday, which narrowly won the December 1995 election. The Indian and Afro-Caribbean populations both account for around 40 per cent of the electorate and both main parties therefore competed fiercely for the 20 per cent mixed-race vote. The election of December 2000 followed a similar pattern, with the UNC once again coming out on top with a small majority. Panday continued as prime minister but his government was brought down by a serious corruption scandal (the UNC has been persistently dogged by such allegations) after less than a year. At the December 2001 poll, the UNC and Patrick Manning’s PNM were tied on 18 seats each. After 12 months of almost paralysed government, the country went to the polls once again, in October 2002. This time, the PNM, with Patrick Manning still at the helm, was returned with small working majority.


Government: The president is the constitutional head of state. Executive power is vested in a prime minister and a cabinet drawn from the largest parties in the bicameral parliament. This comprises the Senate, with 31 appointed members, and the House of Representatives, with 36 members elected by universal adult suffrage. Since 1980, Tobago has had its own 15-seat House of Assembly, with 12 members elected and three selected by the ruling party. Tobago was granted full internal self-government by the national government in January 1987.


Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.