Tunisia
Overview

‘Roman remains, French sophistication, yet totally Tunisian’


For such a tiny country – the smallest in North Africa – Tunisia packs a lot in. It is a truly kaleidoscopic nation, ranging from Mediterranean beaches to the Sahara desert and from ancient souks to Star Wars film sets. This Arab-Berber nation is one of the most liberal in the Islamic world; alcohol is freely available and women need not feel intimidated.

The capital, Tunis, reflects the country’s diversity. Its French colonial past has a far-reaching influence (it only gained independence in 1956), most obviously in its cuisine that blends sophisticated French with Arab spice. Older history is evident in the remains of what was Roman Carthage, while the Roman ruins at Dougga and El Jem are some of the finest in Africa.

Despite its location, edging the Sahara, Tunisia is a surprisingly fertile land. It has six National Parks; that around Lac Ichkeul is one of only two UNESCO-protected Biosphere Reserves in the world. If you’re feeling energetic, the view from the near-deserted village of Takrouna over the mountainous north is stunning. Alternatively, visit a central desert oasis like Zaafrane, Tozeur or Kebili with its hot pools. Finally, when you tire of culture, history and nature, simply lie on the beach and relax at some point along its 1400km (875 miles) stretch of Mediterranean coastline.


Mike Gerrard

General Information

Area: 163,610 sq km (63,170 sq miles).

Population: 9,456,700 (1999).

Population Density: 57.8 per sq km.

Capital: Tunis. Population: 674,100 (1994).

GEOGRAPHY: The Republic of Tunisia lies on the Mediterranean coast of Africa, 130km (80 miles) southwest of Sicily and 160km (100 miles) due south of Sardinia. It is bordered by Algeria to the west and Libya to the southeast. The landscape varies from the cliffs of the north coast to the woodlands of the interior, from deep valleys of rich arable land to desert, and from towering mountains to salt pans lower than sea level. South of Gafsa and Gabès is the Sahara desert. The 1100km (700 miles) of coastline is dotted with small islands, notably Jerba in the south and Kerkenah in the east, and from the northwest to the southeast the coastline is backed successively by pine-clad hills, lush pasture, orchards, vineyards and olive groves.

Government: Republic since 1959. Gained independence from France in 1957. Head of State: President Zine Al-Abidine Ben Ali since 1987. Head of Government: Prime Minister Muhammad Ghannouchi since 2000.

Language: The official language is Arabic. French is the second language, Italian is spoken in major cities, and English and German mainly in tourist resorts.

Religion: The principal religion is Islam; there are small Roman Catholic, Protestant and Jewish minorities.

Time: GMT + 1.

Electricity: 220/110 volts AC, 50Hz. A two-pin continental plug/adaptor is needed.

Communications:  

Telephone

Full IDD is available. Country code: 216. Outgoing international code: 00. Automatic dialling extends to almost every part of the country and covers direct international calls.

Mobile telephone

GSM 900 network. Operators include Tunisie Telecom and Tunisiana (website: www.orascomtunisie.com).

Fax

Facilities are available in main towns, hotels and post offices.

Internet

ISPs include ATI (website: www.ati.tn), Planet Tunisie (website: www.planet.tn) and 3S Global Net (website: www.gnet.tn). E-mail can be accessed from Internet cafes in Tunis, Tahar ben Amar, Sousse and Nabeul.

Telegram

The Telecommunications Centre in Tunis is located at 29 Jamal Abdelnasser. Telegraph facilities are available at the Central Post Office at rue Charles de Gaulle, Tunis; telegrams can also be sent from most hotels.

Post

Airmail to Europe takes three to five days; an express service guarantees delivery in four days or under. Poste Restante facilities are available in main cities. Post office hours: Mon-Sat 0800-1300 (summer, approximately 15 Jun-15 Sep); Mon-Fri 0800-1200 and 1400-1800, Sat 0800-1200 (winter, approximately 16 Sep-14 Jun); Mon-Sat 0800-1500 (during Ramadan).

Press

Daily newspapers are printed in Arabic or French, the most popular being As-Sabah and La Presse de Tunisie. The weekly Tunisia News is published in English.

BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change.

BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice):

MHz15.4912.109.4106.195


Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov):

MHz15.2111.829.7601.197


Passport/Visa

 Passport Required?Visa Required?Return Ticket Required?
BritishYesNoYes
AustralianYesYes/1Yes
CanadianYesNoYes
USAYesNoYes
OtherEUYesNoYes
JapaneseYesNoYes


PASSPORTS: Passport valid three months after return date required by all.

VISAS: Required by all except the following:
(a) 1. nationals referred to in the chart above for stays of up to three months;
(b) 1. nationals of Algeria (unlimited stay), Antigua & Barbuda, Argentina, Bahrain, Barbados, Bermuda, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Brunei, Bulgaria (max. two months), Chile, Côte d’Ivoire, Croatia, Dominica, Falkland Islands, Fiji, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, Gambia, Gibraltar, Guinea Republic, Honduras, Hong Kong (SAR), Hungary, Iceland, Kiribati, Korea (Rep), Kuwait, Libya, Liechtenstein, Malaysia, Mali, Malta, Mauritania, Mauritius, Monaco, Montserrat, Morocco (unlimited stay), Niger, Norway, Oman, Qatar, Romania, St Kitts & Nevis, St Lucia, St Vincent & the Grenadines, San Marino, Saudi Arabia, Senegal, Seychelles, Slovenia, Solomon Islands, South Africa, Switzerland, Turkey, United Arab Emirates, Vatican City and Virgin Islands (UK);
(c) nationals of the Russian Federation and CIS for package holidays only;
(d) transit passengers from countries whose nationals do not require a visa to enter Tunisia, continuing their journey within 48 hours (24 hours for nationals of China (PR), Lebanon and Syria), provided holding valid onward or return documentation and not leaving the airport.


Note: 1. Nationals of Australia and South Africa, who do need a visa, can obtain it on arrival, at point of entry. Check with the Embassy for details of length of stay.

Types of visa and cost: Short-stay and Transit: £3.60.

Validity: Short-stay: Usually for stays of up to three months. Transit: Two days. For up-to-the-minute lengths of stay, contact nearest Consulate.

Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy); see Contact Addresses section.

Application requirements: (a) Valid passport. (b) Photocopy of first five pages of passport and any stamps. (c) Three application forms completed in black ink and capital letters. (d) Two passport-size photos. (e) Fee (payable by postal order or cash; cheques are not accepted). (f) Registered, stamped, self-addressed envelope for postal application.

Working days required: 14-21, for both postal and personal applications.

Temporary residence: For more information, contact the visa section of the Tunisian Embassy (see Contact Addresses section).

Money

Currency: Tunisian Dinar (TD) = 1000 millimes. Notes are in denominations of TD30, 20, 10 and 5. Coins are in denominations of TD1, and 500, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5 millimes.

Currency exchange: All banks change money, as do most hotels of three stars and above.

Credit & debit cards: MasterCard, American Express, Diners Club and Visa are widely accepted. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other services which may be available. There are ATMs in every large town and tourist destination.

Travellers cheques: Readily cashed in banks and the usual authorised establishments; to avoid additional exchange rates, travellers are advised to bring travellers cheques in Dollars.

Currency restrictions: The import and export of local currency is strictly prohibited. The import of foreign currency is unlimited. The export of foreign currency is limited to the amount imported although re-exchange of local into foreign currency must be only up to 30 per cent of the total imported, up to a maximum of TD100. All currency documentation must be retained.

Exchange rate indicators
The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Tunisian Dinar against Sterling and the US Dollar:


DateMay ’02Aug ’02Nov ’02Feb ’03
£1.00=2.112.122.182.09
$1.00=1.451.391.381.32


Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0730-1130 (summer); Mon-Thurs 0800-1100 and 1400-1615, Fri 0800-1100 and 1300-1600 (winter).

Duty Free

The following goods may be imported into Tunisia by persons over 17 years of age without incurring customs duty:
200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 400g of tobacco; 1 bottle of alcoholic beverages; a reasonable quantity of perfume; gifts up to a value of TD10.


Restricted items: The export of antiques is subject to a permit from the Ministry of Cultural Affairs.

Prohibited items: Firearms (unless for hunting), explosives, narcotics, walkie-talkies, obscene publications, any other items which may be regarded as dangerous to public security, health, morality and so on.

Public Holidays

Dec 6-8 2002 Eid el-Fitr (End of Ramadan). Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Feb 12 Eid el-Idha (Feast of the Sacrifice). Mar 5 Hegire (Islamic New Year). Mar 20 Independence Day. Mar 21 Youth Day. Apr 9 Martyrs’ Day. May 1 Labour Day. May 14 Mouled. Jul 25 Republic Day. Aug 13 Women’s Day. Nov 7 New Era Day. Nov 26-28 Eid el-Fitr (End of Ramadan). Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Feb 2 Eid el-Idha (Feast of the Sacrifice). Feb 22 Hegire (Islamic New Year). Mar 20 Independence Day. Mar 21 Youth Day. Apr 9 Martyrs’ Day. May 1 Labour Day. May 2 Mouled. Jul 25 Republic Day. Aug 13 Women’s Day. Nov 7 New Era Day. Nov 14-16 Eid el-Fitr (End of Ramadan).

Note: Muslim festivals are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximations. During the lunar month of Ramadan that precedes Eid el-Fitr, Muslims fast during the day and feast at night and normal business patterns may be interrupted. Many restaurants are closed during the day and there may be restrictions on smoking and drinking. Some disruption may continue into Eid el-Fitr itself. Eid el-Fitr and Eid el-Idha may last for two days. For more information, see the World of Islam appendix.

Health

 Special PrecautionsCertificate Required
Yellow FeverYes1
CholeraYes2
Typhoid and Polio3N/A
MalariaNoN/A


1: A yellow fever certificate is required from travellers over one year of age arriving from infected areas.

2: Following WHO guidelines issued in 1973, a cholera vaccination certificate is no longer a condition of entry to Tunisia. However, sporadic cases of cholera do occur in this region and up-to-date advice should be sought before deciding whether these precautions should include vaccination, as medical opinion is divided over its effectiveness. See the Health appendix for further information.

3: Vaccination against typhoid is advised.

Food & drink: Mains water is normally chlorinated, and whilst safe may cause mild abdominal upsets. Bottled water is available and is advised for the first few weeks of the stay. Drinking water outside main cities and towns may be contaminated. Milk should be boiled when unpasteurised (ie if not commercially processed and packed). Powdered or tinned milk is available and is advised but make sure that it is reconstituted with pure water. Avoid dairy products which are likely to have been made from unboiled milk. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish, preferably served hot. Salad and mayonnaise may carry increased risk. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled. These precautions should include western-style buffets.

Other risks: Dysenteries and diarrhoeal diseases are common in this region. Hepatitis A is present and hepatitis E is endemic in some areas; precautions should be taken. Lassa fever occurs in rural areas. Mediterranean spotted fever has been reported. Tungiasis is present.
Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, see the Health appendix.


Health care: Health insurance is recommended. Tunisia has a well-developed, if somewhat limited, public health service.

Travel - International

AIR: The national airline is Tunis Air (TU) (website: www.tunisair.com). There are regular direct flights to Tunisia from all over Europe, but no direct flights from the USA, Asia, South America and Australasia. Tuniter also runs services to Malta and Hassi Messaoud in Algeria (see Travel – Internal section).

Approximate flight times: From London to Tunis is 2 hours 30 minutes, to Djerba is 3 hours, to Monastir is 3 hours and to Sfax is 3 hours 15 minutes.

International airports: Tunis (TUN) (Carthage International) is 8km (5 miles) northeast of the city (travel time – 15-30 minutes). There is a duty-free shop open both to incoming and outgoing passengers. Banks are open all day for currency exchange, and at least one remains open for night flights. An airport–city coach and buses are available. Return is from Hotel Africa Meridien (city air terminal). Taxis are available; a surcharge is levied at night.
Monastir (MIR) (Skanes) is 8km (5 miles) west of the city. Buses are available to the city centre.
Djerba (DJE) (Melita) is 8km (5 miles) from the city.
Sfax (SFA) is 15km (9 miles) from the city.
Tozeur (TOE) (Nefta) is 10km (6 miles) from the city.
Tabarka (TBJ) is 2km (1.25 miles) from the city.
All the above airports have bars, restaurants and both incoming and outgoing duty-free shops. Taxis are available at all the airports.


Note: Tunisian currency is not valid in duty-free shops.

Departure tax: None for visitors. TD45 for residents and nationals only.

SEA: SNCM (Ferry Terranée) runs ferry services from France and Italy to Tunisia. For more informtion contact their main office in France (tel: (08) 9170 1801; fax: (04) 9156 3586; e-mail: confo@sncm.fr; website: www.sncm.fr). The major routes are Marseilles–Tunis (travel time – 21-24 hours) and Genoa–Tunis (travel time – 21-24 hours). A hydrofoil service is available from Sicily between May and September. Costa Cruises offer summer cruises from Genoa to Tunisia.

ROAD: Theoretically, there are several points of entry by road from Algeria, normally served by buses and long-distance taxis: Annaba (in Algeria) to Tabarka (following the coast road); Souk Ahras (in Algeria) to Ghardimaou and El Oued (Algeria) to Gafsa. However, political unrest means that it is difficult for tourists to cross the border. Entry by road from Libya is via the coast road at Gabès, via Ben Gardane and Ras Ajdir.

Travel - Internal

AIR: Tuninter runs regular services seven to eight times a day between Tunis and Djerba airports (flight time – approximately 1 hour). There is a daily flight to Sfax from Tunis Tuesday to Friday, with two flights on Monday. There are flights to Tozeur on most weekdays. Tuninter is represented internationally by Tunis Air (tel: (020) 7734 7644). Prices are reasonable and services are normally heavily subscribed, so it is advisable to book ahead.

SEA: Ferries operate between Sfax and the Kerkenah Islands twice daily, and between Jorf and Jerba Island regularly during the day.

RAIL: Regular trains (run by SNCFT) connect Tunis with major towns. The main route is between Tunis and Gabès, via Sousse, Sfax and Gafsa. It is essential to purchase a ticket before boarding the train or double the fare may be charged. Several daily trains run on each route, many with air-conditioned accommodation and a buffet. The superb views of the Sebja Gorge can be seen from the Lezard Rouge (Red Lizard), a restored old-fashioned train that runs daily between Metalouis and Redeyef. It is highly advisable to book in advance, if possible, especially for the more popular air-conditioned routes.

ROAD: Tunisia has an extensive road network. In case of breakdown, the Garde Nationale (National Guard) will assist free of charge (they usually contact the nearest garage). Traffic drives on the right. Bus: The green and yellow coloured national buses, run by SNTRI, are air conditioned and travel daily to most towns across the country. Other services include the intercity buses which are cheap and reasonably comfortable. The destination is written in French and Arabic on the front of the bus. Passengers are allowed 10kg of luggage without additional charge. Each piece of luggage must, however, be registered. Taxi: Long-distance taxis (usually large Mercedes or similar), called louages, are authorised to carry five passengers. They have no fixed schedule and leave their respective departure points when full. They serve the whole of Tunisia. This is the quickest form of public road transport. There are many louage stations and prices are similar to those of buses and trains. Car hire: This can be very expensive. To rent a self-drive car, the driver must be over 21 years of age. A full driving licence, which has been valid for at least one year, is acceptable. Speed limits: 50kph (30mph) in towns; 100kph (60mph) on major highways. Documentation: Log books, valid national driving licences and insurance are essential. Both the RAC and AA are affiliated to the National Automobile Club (NACT) based in Tunis. Insurance valid for up to 21 days can be purchased at the border.

Note: For safety reasons, it is forbidden to drive a car in the Sahara without first contacting the National Guard post at the nearest town, giving the planned itinerary and the expected point of exit from the area. Full provisions, a suitable vehicle and an experienced guide are necessary for any travel in the Sahara.

URBAN: A surburban train line (TGM) links Tunis with the northern suburbs. Tunis and Sousse also have a modern and convenient tram system (métro léger). Taxi: Within Tunis and other cities, city taxis are numbered and have meters. The price on the meter is what you should pay. There is a 50 per cent surcharge on night fares. Bicycle: Bicycles and motorcycles are available for hire in most major towns and do not require a licence.

TRAVEL TIMES: The following chart gives approximate travel times (in hours and minutes) from Tunis to other major cities/towns in Tunisia.


Air Road Rail
Hammamet - 0.45 1.00
Nabeul - 0.45 1.00
Sousse - 2.00 2.30
Port el Kantaoui - 2.00 2.30
Monastir 0.35 3.00 3.00
Sfax 0.50 4.00 4.00
Gabès - 5.00 6.00
Jerba 0.60 7.00 -
Tozeur 1.10 6.00 -
Note: Travellers to Port el Kantaoui are advised to take the train to Sousse, and travel the remaining 7km (4 miles) by taxi. For Monastir they should change in Sousse for the Metro Leger. For Jerba, they should take the train to Gabès and then the shuttle-bus.

Accommodation

HOTELS: Tunisia has approximately 160,000 hotel beds. There are also several vacation villages within each area. There is a luxury resort in Tabarka which hosts the International Coral Festival of Underwater Photography. Grading: Hotel accommodation is classified by a star system ranging from deluxe (5-star) to clean but simple (1-star).

MARHALAS: Marhalas are converted caravanserais and often consist of several connected underground houses (in Matmata and Ksars – ancient granaries), where sleeping quarters and communal bathing and toilet facilities have been installed. They also have their own simple, but clean and adequate, restaurants. There are Marhalas at Houmt Souk, Nefta and Kairouan.

CAMPING/CARAVANNING: Tents can be pitched or trailers parked on beaches and in parks with permission from the property owner or from the nearest police or National Guard station. The major campsites are Le Moulin Bleu (Blue Mill) at Hammam-Plage, 20km (12 miles) from Tunis; L’Auberge des Jasmins (Jasmin Inn) at Nabeul, 65km (40 miles) from Tunis, equipped with showers, wash-basins, toilets, hot and cold running water, shop, restaurant and outdoor theatre in an extensive orange grove; L’Idéal Camping at Hammamet, 60km (35 miles) from Tunis, with restaurant facilities; Sonia Camping & Caravan Site at Zarzis, 505km (313 miles) from Tunis; and The Youth Centre of Gabès, 404km (251 miles) from Tunis (summer only).

YOUTH HOSTELS: Youth Hostels are open to all young people who are members of the International Youth Hostel Association. It is recommended to make reservations well in advance, especially for groups. For details, contact the Association Tunisienne des Auberges et Tourisme de Jeunes, 10 rue Ali Bach Hamba, BP 320, 1015 Tunis (tel: (71) 353 277; fax: (71) 352 172; e-mail: ataj@planet.tn; website: www.cybertunisia.com/ataj) or Tuisian National Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses section).

Tunis

The Tunisian capital – home to one in ten of the population – combines a modern, European-style city of tree-lined avenues with a vibrant, atmospheric medina listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The main entrance to the medina is through an arched gateway known as the Bab el Bahr (or Porte de France) on Place de la Victoire. To the right is the handsome green and white frontage of the British Embassy.

The main thoroughfare through the medina, rue Djamaa Ez-Zitouna, is often bustling with tourists but more authentic souks (markets) can be found in the myriad of surrounding alleys. Originally, each souk specialised in a single trade. Among the oldest is the 13th-century Souk el Attarine (the perfume-makers’ market) which still sells scents and essential oils.

If you get lost, the major landmark is the Zitouna Mosque (also known as the Great Mosque) – the largest in Tunisia. It is the only mosque in the city which can be visited by non-Muslims and even here, access is restricted to a viewing enclosure overlooking a polished marble courtyard.

The Bardo Museum is a major tourist attraction, housing one of the world’s greatest collections of Roman mosaics. Situated in a former palace belonging to the Husaynid beys who ruled Tunisia in the 18th and 19th centuries, the museum includes archaeological treasures from the Carthaginian, Roman, early Christian and Islamic eras. The Roman section is the undoubted highlight with mosaics covering entire floors and walls, many of them almost completely intact. Common themes include hunting and farming scenes, Greek and Roman gods, sea battles and family life.

Another popular museum – the National Museum of Carthage –is located on the outskirts of the city near the airport. It is best visited immediately prior to exploring the ruins of Carthage itself (see Historic Sites section).


EXCURSIONS: Close to Carthage, Sidi Bou Said is often described as Tunisia’s prettiest village. Its cobbled streets and whitewashed houses with light blue window grilles and studded doors has made it a popular stop on any excursion to the Tunis area. Despite its popularity, it has managed to retain its charm. The Café Sidi Chabanne is one of the best places in Tunisia to sample the national drink, mint tea, which is served piping hot and topped with pine nuts.

Other suburbs of Tunis include Gammarth which has fast become a fully-fledged resort of luxury hotels, including the 5-star La Residence, often described as the best hotel in Tunisia.

La Marsa is another upmarket beachfront suburb with a palm tree-lined corniche and long sandy beach.

La Goulette is noted for its excellent fish restaurants which attract crowds from Tunis especially on warm summer evenings. Once a pirates’ stronghold, the town is at the mouth (‘the gullet’) of the Tunis canal and remains a busy cargo and ferry port. It is linked to Tunis by a suburban rail service, the TGM. Travel time to the centre of Tunis is less than 30 minutes.


Northern Tunisia

Although by-passed by most British holiday-makers, the area north of Tunis and along the northern coast is a delightful part of the country with dozens of quiet beaches and one of the most fascinating towns in the country.

The region can be quite cold in winter with occasional snow flurries. In summer, it provides a welcome escape from the heat of the capital.


BIZERTE: Easily visited on a day trip from Tunis, Bizerte has been a major port since Phoenician times when it was known as Hippo Zarytus. Under French rule in the late 19th century, it became a naval base and has remained Tunisia’s biggest military centre ever since.

At the heart of the town is the wonderfully picturesque Vieux Port (Old Port) surrounded by shops and cafes and usually dotted with dozens of multi-coloured fishing boats.

Despite its Byzantine appearance, the Kasbah dates mainly from the 17th century. Within its walls is a mini-town of narrow, winding alleys.

On the southwestern approach to Bizerte is the Monument of the Martyrs commemorating the Bizerte Crisis of 1961 when French soldiers clashed with Tunisian troops leaving more than 1300 dead.


JEBEL ICHKEUL NATIONAL PARK: About a 40-minute drive from Bizerte, it is one of only two water-based conservation areas in the world to be designated by UNESCO as Wetland World Heritage Sites (the other is the Florida Everglades).

The Park is an important bird sanctuary and between October and February provides a major stopping point for waterfowl migrating between Europe and Africa. It is also home to one of Tunisia’s most colourful birds, the purple gallinule, and among its animal life are water buffalo, wild boar, jackals and otters.


TABARKA: Situated in northwest Tunisia close to the Algerian border, Tabarka was supposed to be Tunisia’s flagship resort on the north coast.

During the 1980s and early 1990s, the Tunisian government ploughed millions of pounds into creating a purpose-built holiday town with its own international airport. Although it is quite popular in the peak summer months with Continental visitors, it has still to win favour with the British market and is completely dead in autumn and winter.

Its future may lie in promoting itself as a diving destination. It offers some of the most exciting dive sites in the Mediterranean including Tunnels Reef – an extraordinary complex of caves, caverns and gullies.


Cap Bon

Known as the Garden of Tunisia, the Cap Bon peninsula combines sleepy villages, rolling green fields and vineyards with the biggest and most cosmopolitan resort in the country.

HAMMAMET: Situated 64km (40 miles) southeast of Tunis, Hammamet has been attracting package holiday-makers since the 1960s. Known as the Garden Resort for its eucalyptus trees, citrus groves and flowering shrubs, a local bylaw prohibits hotels being built higher than the tallest surrounding palm tree.

But a much more relaxed attitude has been taken towards the expansion of the resort. It now extends almost as far as Nabeul in the north while 8km (5 miles) to the south, a massive new sister resort Yasmine Hammamet is being completed.

The focal point of the town is the Kasbah which was first built in the 15th century but heavily restored since. It provides the main entry to Hammamet’s small medina which is packed with souvenir shops selling leatherware, clothes, pottery, stuffed camels and bird cages.

Hammamet is well served with restaurants to suit all tastes and pockets. Most of the major hotels are set alongside the town’s sandy beach – with many also offering indoor and outdoor pools.

Beach activities include sailing, windsurfing and parascending. Most evening entertainment is hotel-based and includes discos and folklore evenings.

Hammamet is a popular centre for golfers with two major courses including the Citrus Golf Complex which offers two 18-hole championship courses and a 9-hole practice course.

Among Hammamet’s few tourist sights is the International Cultural Centre located in a villa once described by Frank Lloyd Wright as the most beautiful in the world – which perhaps overstates its charms. Guests have included Churchill, Rommel and Anthony Eden. In recent years, it has been the venue for Hammamet’s annual summer cultural festival.


NABEUL: Although overshadowed by Hammamet 10km (6 miles) further south, Nabeul has spent the last decade trying to exploit its own tourism potential and now boasts a string of large beachfront hotels.

The town’s biggest claim to fame is as the centre of Tunisia’s pottery industry which dates back to Roman times.

The distinctive and very collectable blue and white pottery can be bought all over Tunisia but Nabeul offers one of the widest selections. Tourists who dislike the idea of haggling can buy items at two official tourist shops in the town where prices are fixed.

Every Friday Nabeul plays host to a so-called Camel Market which seems to draw considerably more tourists than it does camels – but it is a good opportunity for shopping and hunting for bargains.


EL HAOUARIA: Best-known for its annual June falconry festival. On the outskirts of the village opposite the island of Zembra is a spectacular series of Roman caves. The nearby caves, Les Grottes des Chauves-Souris, are home to thousands of bats.

KELIBIA: Kelibia is a picturesque and thriving fishing port which makes a good base for exploring the more rural parts of the Cap Bon region. A massive sixth-century fort overlooks the town and offers spectacular views.

Central Tunisia

Includes four of the most popular package-resorts as well as Tunisia’s holiest city. Also known as The Sahel, Central Tunisia is a rich agricultural area with hundreds of thousands of olive trees.

PORT EL KANTAOUI: A hugely successful purpose-built resort constructed around a picturesque marina fringed with shops and restaurants. It opened in 1979 and has been expanding ever since.

Its hotels resemble giant, whitewashed palaces and are set in gardens awash with bougainvillaea.

Most holiday-makers love the resort because of its familiarity and security. Critics point to its lack of authenticity.

Port El Kantaoui offers a 27-hole golf course – aimed more at casual players than golf fanatics.


SOUSSE: Tunisia’s third largest city, Sousse lies 8km (5 miles) south of Port El Kantaoui and could not be more different. It is packed with atmosphere and hundreds of years of history. Very much a working city, it has a thriving port and busy fishing harbour which is best viewed early in the morning when the previous night’s catch is being unloaded from a flotilla of small boats.

Still emerging as a holiday centre, a string of hotels has been built fronting the city’s elegant corniche.

Sousse was one of the Phoenicians’ great coastal cities but it fell to Arab invaders in the seventh century. In AD 790, the foundations of a new city were laid and several remnants of that time still remain including the Great Mosque and its Ribat – one of a chain of fortresses which stretched along the Mediterranean coast. Both are located within Sousse’s bustling medina where a cluster of souks sell everything from food and clothes to perfume and jewellery.

The Kasbah Museum houses an impressive collection of third- and fourth-century mosaics. It also offers commanding views over the city.


MONASTIR: Like Port El Kantaoui, Monastir is another largely purpose-built tourist town of pristine streets and lavish landscaping. It has an attractive marina and an old fishing port. Most of Monastir’s tourist hotels are situated 5-6km (3-4 miles) west of the town centre at Skanes close to Monastir-Skanes Airport – Tunisia’s main international gateway for charter flights.

Monastir's most impressive landmark is the golden-domed Bourguiba Mosque – the final resting place of the founder of modern-day Tunisia and its first president, Habib Bourguiba.

The town’s Ribat supposedly dates from the eighth century but it has been restored so many times that little of the original structure is left.


MAHDIA: Mahdia is one of Tunisia’s newest tourist towns which has been expanding rapidly since the creation of a tourist zone 5km (3 miles) west of the town centre. It is where the best beaches can be found.

While Mahdia struggles to cling to its old way of life which revolved around weaving and a thriving fishing port, nearly every shop and stall in the medina is now geared towards tourism.

The Great Mosque may look ancient but it was only built in the 1960s as a replica of the 1000-year-old original.


KAIROUAN: Easily visited on a day trip from Port El Kantaoui, Sousse, Monastir or Mahdia, Kairouan is the most sacred city in Tunisia and Islam’s fourth most important centre after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem.

Within its medina, there are more than 50 mosques, the Great Mosque of Sidi Oqba being the star attraction. Originally constructed in AD 671, the existing building was built by the Aghlabids in AD 863. Sadly, non-Muslims are barred from entering the prayer hall with its 400 marble pillars and one of the world’s oldest pulpits with 250 carved-wood panels.

Rather incongruously, as well as being a spiritual centre, Kairouan is also a frenetic market town and the epicentre of Tunisia’s cut-throat carpet-making industry.


KERKENNAH: A small group of islands situated off the coast of Sfax, Tunisia’s second city which is rarely visited by holidaymakers.

There are two main inhabited islands, Chergui and Gharbi which are joined by a causeway.

Regular ferry services operate between Sfax and Kerkennah. The travel time is just less than an hour.

Kerkennah makes a pleasant day trip or for those seeking to get away from it all; it is also worth considering staying several days.


Jerba and the South

Southern Tunisia has much to offer including the island resort of Jerba and some fascinating towns on the fringes of the Sahara Desert.

JERBA: A popular choice among holidaying Tunisians, Jerba is connected to the mainland by a causeway. There are also ferry services which operate between Ajim on Jerba and Jorf on the mainland.

Although it is only 30km (19 miles) wide by 27km (17 miles) long, Jerba is said to have 354 mosques – one for every day of the Islamic calendar.

The main centre, Houmt Souk, is on the island’s north coast, only four miles from the airport at Mellita. Houmt Souk means ‘marketplace’ and this remains the town’s primary purpose although it also benefits from tourism.

While most tourists stay at the big beach hotels within Jerba’s tourist zone 10-11km (6-7 miles) east of Houmt Souk, accommodation in the town itself includes simple and comfortable fondouk hotels. Most have been built around old courtyards and are very atmospheric.

Midoun – Jerba’s second biggest town – springs to life on Fridays when its sprawling market attracts a large crowd of local people and tourists. It is worth arriving early as everything is over by lunchtime.

Guellala is a big pottery-producing centre which uses local clay quarried from the hills above the village. Its main street is lined with shops piled high with pots and plates.

The El Ghriba Synagogue at Erriadh (also known as Hara Seghira) is one of the holiest Jewish shrines in North Africa.


THE CHOTT EL JERID: The focal point of Tunisia’s desert tourism industry, Chott El Jerid is one of a series of large salt lakes which lie lifeless in summer but evaporate during the winter to create inland seas.

Several oasis towns have sprung up around Chott El Jerid – notably Tozeur – now an established resort with a wide range of hotels – most of them situated in a designated tourist zone 3km (2 miles) from the town centre.

Tozeur’s Palmery comprises thousands of date palms watered by 200 springs.

The old town district known as Ouled El Hadef comprises a network of narrow alleys which have changed little since the 14th century. Their distinctive pale yellow brickwork with geometric motifs is considered a marvel of Islamic art.

There is a small airport at Tozeur served from Tunis by the domestic airline Tuninter with up to five flights a week.

Nearby, Nefta is another oasis town best-known for its Corbeille, a deep gully filled with palm trees which can be explored on foot or by donkey.


DOUZ: Sometimes called ‘The Gateway to the Desert’ Douz is best-visited on its Thursday market day which attracts traders from a wide area selling everything from dates and spices to sheep and camels.

It is also a major centre for desert trekking – either by camel or in four-wheel-drive vehicles.

Anyone planning a desert safari needs to inform the National Guard and ensure their vehicle is equipped with a full tool kit and handbook, spare tyres, fuel and water, a compass and emergency rations. It is also advisable to hire a local driver.

The Douz Museum explores the history and culture of the Tunisian desert.

Douz also hosts an annual Festival of the Sahara – usually held in November or December – which includes camel and greyhound racing, folk dancing and poetry recitals.


MATMATA: Has become an ever more popular stopping point en route between Jerba and Tozeur since the release of the film ‘Star Wars: The Phantom Menace’. In the opening sequence of the original Star Wars movie, Matmata's troglodyte houses were featured.

The cave dwellings which date from the fourth century BC are built on two levels: the upper one containing storage rooms with living accommodation below. Some are still inhabited and can be visited by arrangement with the owners. One or two have been turned into hotels – which makes for an unusual night’s stay.

Another strange type of building found in the deep south of Tunisia are ksour – most often seen around Medenine and Tataouine. Made from mud and stone and three or four stories high, they were built around a courtyard and used as secure storage units for grain. One of the best-preserved is the Ksar Ouled Soltane 24km (15 miles) east of Tataouine. Buildings in its first courtyard are more than 400 years old while the inner complex dates from around 1850.


EXCURSIONS: An interesting day trip from Tozeur or Nefta is exploring the mountain villages of Tamerza, Chebika and Mides. The original village of Tamerza was abandoned after catastrophic flooding in 1969 but visitors can still walk through its eerily empty streets.

Historic Sites

Tunisia has a wide variety of historical settlements – Punic, Roman, Byzantine and Islamic – many of which are in excellent condition.

Holidaymakers staying in the main beach resorts will find organised excursions are available to the most important sites.

It is usually possible to reach lesser-known ruins by public transport but hiring a car may be a more practical option.


CARTHAGE: Founded by the Phoenicians in 814 BC, Carthage thrived as a maritime centre and later became the third largest city in the Roman Empire before being destroyed by the Arabs in AD 692. Although it is Tunisia’s best-known archaeological site, it is not particularly easy to navigate. The ruins are scattered over quite a large area in what is now an upmarket commuter suburb of Tunis.

Since a complete tour requires a whole day, it is probably more rewarding to make two shorter trips.

The best view of the whole site is from Byrsa Hill which was the heart of the city in Punic times.

Carthage’s key attractions include the Antonine Baths which – outside of Rome – were once the largest baths in the Roman Empire. Visitors are not allowed to enter the Baths but can study them from a viewing platform. Heat was provided by an underground system of furnaces and – very much like a modern day spa – there were a series of hot rooms, a cold plunge pool and the Roman equivalent of a Jacuzzi.

The Punic Ports, now little more than ponds, once provided berths for more than 200 naval vessels. Similarly, little is left of the Theatre of Hadrian which was built in the second century.

Tophet was used for child sacrifices. Urns have been unearthed containing the ashes of more than 20,000 boys aged between two and 12 sacrificed by the Carthaginians in the eighth century BC.


EL JEM: This small town 80km (50 miles) south of Sousse would be like dozens of others in Tunisia were it not for its giant amphitheatre – one of the country’s truly remarkable sights.

Only slightly smaller than the Colosseum in Rome, it is better preserved and seems much more imposing, partly because it is situated at the end of a street of modern houses.

Built between 230 and 238 in what was then the busy market town of Thysdrus, the amphitheatre could seat crowds of more than 30,000. Even if being built today it would be considered an impressive achievement but without modern construction equipment, the task must have been gargantuan. Blocks of sandstone were transported from quarries 32km (20 miles) away while water was carried 16km (10 miles) through an underground aqueduct.

The amphitheatre was used both for festivals and for dawn to dusk gladiatorial contests when petty criminals were pitted against wild animals in fights to the death.


DOUGGA: Tunisia’s best-preserved Roman ruins enjoy a lofty setting 96km (60 miles) southwest of Tunis. Formerly known as Thugga under the Numidian king Massinissa in the second century BC, under Roman rule Dougga had a population of up to 10,000. The site’s main attraction is its well-preserved Capitol built in 166 BC which is dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. Its theatre, which could seat up to 3500, is still used by a summer touring company. Visitors with an earthy sense of humour may be amused by the rather cosy, horseshoe-shaped arrangement of 12 latrines in the Baths of Cyclops while the House of Trifolium is thought to have been the town’s brothel.

BULLA REGIA: Situated 72km (45 miles) south of Tabarka, Bulla Regia is another impressive Roman site. Its most notable feature is its underground dwellings which were used by wealthy residents to escape the summer heat. The villas were paved with beautiful mosaic floors, some of which remain exactly where they were created, undisturbed for centuries.

THUBURBO MAJUS: Although it was first settled in the fifth century BC, most of the ruins at Thuburbo Majus are from Roman times when the town was an important regional trading centre with a population of around 8000. A sprawling site within an easy day trip of both Tunis and Hammamet, the best-preserved structures include the Forum, Capitol and Winter Baths.

KERKOUANE: Some 8km (5 miles) north of Kelibia are the remarkable remains of a Punic town. Destroyed in 236 BC, it was unearthed in 1952 and is listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. There is an adjoining museum housing pottery, jewellery, wooden carvings and funerary statues.

UTICA: Close to Tunis, Utica was once an important Roman port but now lies 11km (7 miles) inland. Its ruins include part of a once-massive public baths complex and the House of the Waterfall which belonged to a wealthy private citizen.

SBEITLA: The most southerly of Tunisia’s major Roman sites, Sbeitla is noted for its massive triumphal arch just before the entrance and for its Forum built in 139 BC. A more modern structure on the site is the sixth-century Basilica of St Vitalis with its attractive baptismal font decorated with mosaics.

Sport & Activities

Watersports: Tunisia’s clear waters, coral beds and diverse sea life make it a popular destination for scuba diving. Tabarka Yachting Club and the International Diving Centre at Port el Kantaoui are recognised by the World Confederation for Diving and offer fully equipped lessons and trips. Permission must be obtained to dive to the natural reserve islands of Zembra and La Galite. For underwater fishing, it is necessary to bring one’s own equipment, and obtain details of conservationist underwater fishing restrictions from the National Tourist Office. Visitors who have brought their own equipment can refill their air bottles at the offices of the Société d’Air Liquide at Mégrine, 7km (4 miles) from Tunis, and at Sfax. Most hotels on the coast have a heated pool as well as a private beach suitable for swimming. Port el Kantaoui is a port of international standard offering mooring for 340 boats, harbour master’s office, deep-sea navigation school, sailing school, ship-chandler, boat-rental and a dry-docking area with maintenance shops. Prices are competitive, especially for winter careening services. There is a marina at Cap Monastir with similar facilities. Among other sailing (and water-skiing) centres is Le Club Nautique de Sidi-Bou Said, which has a marina complex. The abundance and great variety of fish makes fishing very popular. Catches include mullet, ray, dogfish, groupers, red rock mullet, crayfish and shrimp. A wetsuit is necessary only between November and April. One can watch coral fishing at Tabarka, octopus fishing off the Kerkennah Islands, sponge fishing at Sfax, on the island of Jerba and in the Gulf of Gabès, and tuna fishing by the experts at Sidi Daoud. These ‘fishing spectacles’ take place in May and June.

Golf: There are excellent courses at Port el Kantaoui near Sousse, Monastir, Tabarka, Carthage at Tunis, Tozeur, Djerba and Hammamet. Players of all abilities will find very high-quality facilities. The Open Golf Championships there have already attracted many leading competitors from all over the world. Created by eminent golf-course architects, the courses are dotted with palm, olive and pomegranate trees, and are next to the sea. Each of the 18 holes is on a different kind of terrain, and treated turf has been imported from California. The courses are well suited to all players. There are luxurious clubhouses, equipment to rent and training/practice grounds with putting green. In Tunis, the golf course at the Country Club at La Soukra has recently undergone extension and re-landscaping. More courses are planned for every major resort.

Gliding: The best-known venue for gliding enthusiasts is the Federal Gliding Centre at Jebel Rassas, 25km (15 miles) from Tunis, where gliders and qualified instruction in the sport are available to visitors.

Birdwatching: Tunisia has many species of birds, most of which are protected in national parks. The cork-oak forests of Ain Draham, the lake and marshes of Ichkeul near Bizerta, the coastal lagoons round Tunis and Sousse, the rocky hills and steps from Kef to Kasserine, and the oases and deserts of the south all have their characteristic birds. Birdlife also varies with the seasons; in winter, spoonbills, geese, ducks, robins and wagtails seek refuge from the cold further north, while in spring and autumn, migrant swallows and warblers and birds of prey at Cap Bon pass through on their journeys between Africa and Europe. In summer, Mediterranean species like storks, bee-eaters and rollers stay to nest.

Health spas: There are about 100 hot-spring stations throughout Tunisia – mostly in the north of the country. Many of the spas have been used for this purpose since Roman and Punic times. The most important stations are run by personnel specialised in the medical and paramedical fields, and treatments are available for rheumatism, arthritis, a variety of lung and skin complaints, circulatory troubles and gynaecological problems. More information is available from the National Tourist Office.

Film tours: Tunisia’s desert near Tozeur has featured in numerous films, most notably The English Patient and Star Wars: The Phantom Menace. An increasing number of tour operators now offer desert safaris to the locations where these famous blockbuster movies were shot. For further information, contact the Tunisian National Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses section).

Social Profile

Food & Drink: Tunisian food is well prepared and delicious, particularly the authentic lamb or dorado (bream) couscous, the fish dishes, tajine and brik or brik à l’oeuf (egg and a tasty filling fried in an envelope of pastry). Tunisian dishes are cooked with olive oil, spiced with aniseed, coriander, cumin, caraway, cinnamon or saffron and flavoured with mint, orange blossom or rose water. Restaurants catering for tourists tend to serve rather bland dishes and ‘international’ cuisine, and visitors are advised to try the smaller restaurants. Prices vary enormously, and higher prices do not necessarily mean better meals. Tunis and the main cities also have French, Italian and other international restaurants. Self-service may sometimes be found but table service is more common.
Moorish cafes, with their traditional decor, serve excellent Turkish coffee or mint tea with pine nuts. Although Tunisia is an Islamic country, alcohol is not prohibited. Tunisia produces a range of excellent table wines, sparkling wines, beers, aperitifs and local liqueurs, notably Boukha (distilled from figs) and Thibarine.


Nightlife: In Tunisia, the theatre season lasts from October to June when local and foreign (especially French) companies put on productions and concerts. International groups appear at the Tunis Theatre and in the towns of Hammamet and Sousse. There are numerous cinemas in the larger cities. There are nightclubs in most of the beach hotels as well as in the big city hotels. Belly dancing is a common cabaret feature and lively local bands often play traditional music.

Shopping: Special purchases include copperware (engraved trays, ashtrays and other utensils); articles sculpted in olive wood; leather goods (wallets, purses, handbags); clothing (kaftans, jelabas, burnuses); pottery and ceramics; dolls in traditional dress; beautiful embroidery; fine silverware and enamelled jewellery. Among the most valuable of Tunisia’s products are carpets. The two major types are woven (non-pile) and knotted (pile). The quality of all carpets is strictly controlled by the National Handicrafts Office, so be sure to check the ONA seal before buying. Shopping hours: Mon-Sat 0800-1200 and 1600-1900 (summer); Mon-Sat 0900-1300 and 1500-1900 (winter). Weekly markets: A source of good purchases are the markets which are set up on certain days in many Tunisian towns and villages. All the products of the region are displayed, including handicrafts, farm produce and secondhand goods. There are ONA workshops and stores throughout the country where visitors can buy items at fixed prices. ONA stores make a reduction of ten per cent on the price of goods purchased in foreign currency. No duty is payable on articles up to £900 in value which are shipped to EU countries, only if accompanied by an EUR1 form. Visitors who make a purchase of more than TD5, anywhere in Tunisia, should ask for a sales slip and keep all sales slips, along with bank receipts for any currency exchanged, for customs inspection.

Special Events: The following information is a selection of Tunisian festivals celebrated in 2003. A complete list is available from the Tunisian National Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses section).
Apr 2003 Lag B’Omer Pilgrimage to La Griba, Djerba. Jun-Jul Tabarka Jazz Festival, Tabarka. Jul Aoussou Festival (International Theater Festival), Sousse. Jul-Aug International Festival of Hammamet (festival of artists), Hammamet. Sep Coralis Festival (underwater photography), Tabarka. Oct 2-27 Carthage October Music Festival (classical music), Carthage. Nov Festival of the Oases, Tozeur (camel racing); International Saharan Festival (desert folklore), Douz.


Social Conventions: Arabic in culture and tradition, Tunisia is nevertheless one of the more liberal and tolerant Muslim countries. The nomadic Bedouin still follow their traditional way of life in the southern desert. The Tunisians’ varied origins are shown in the architecture, crafts, music and regional folk dances. Tunisia has also developed an international reputation as an intellectual and cultural centre. Shaking hands is the usual form of greeting. Hospitality is very important and a small gift in appreciation of hospitality or as a token of friendship is always appropriate. Dress can be informal but should respect the conventions of Islam when visiting religious monuments, ie shoulders and knees must be covered. Outside tourist resorts, scanty beachwear should not be worn. Tipping: Ten per cent for all services.

Business Profile

Economy: Tunisia lacks the vast natural resources of its North African neighbours, but careful and successful economic management has brought the country reasonable prosperity. Annual growth over the last five years has been between 3.8 and five per cent and current inflation is just three per cent. Only unemployment at 16 per cent is a cause for concern. Agriculture and mining are the foundations of the economy. The main agricultural products are wheat, barley, olive oil, wine and fruit, but other foodstuffs have to be imported. Large quantities of phosphate ores are mined along with iron, lead, aluminium fluoride and zinc. Tunisia is also a modest oil exporter, although this industry has recently been in decline and known reserves are not expected to last much beyond 2005. Natural gas fields are more extensive. There is a small manufacturing sector involved in processing organic chemicals derived from petroleum and purification of phosphate ore. Other industries produce textiles, construction materials, machinery, chemicals, paper and wood. Tourism dominates the service sector, though the industry is sensitive to the regional political climate (particularly relations with Algeria and Libya).
Government economic policy during the last decade has followed the path of deregulation, including abolition of trade controls, privatisation and making the Dinar fully convertible. Tunisia’s most important trade links are with the EU whose members (principally France and Germany) account for three-quarters of all the country’s trade. Economic relations were strengthened during 1995 by the signing of a free trade agreement with the EU, which has been introduced gradually over a 12-year period starting from 1998. This is similar to the association agreements signed by would-be members and, although there is no prospect of it ever joining the EU, the deal was a considerable diplomatic coup for the Tunisian government. Tunisia is a member of the Union of the Arab Maghreb and of various pan-Arab economic organisations.


Business: Arabic and French are the most widely used languages in business circles and a knowledge of either is useful. Interpreter services are available. Appointments are required. Office hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1300 and 1500-1745 (winter); Mon-Sat 0830-1300 (summer). Government office opening hours may vary by half an hour.

Commercial Information: The following organisations can offer advice: Agence de Promotion de l’Industrie (API), 63 rue de Syrie, 1002 Tunis (tel: (71) 792 144; fax: (71) 782 482; website: www.tunisieindustrie.nat.tn); or Chambre de Commerce et d’Industrie de Tunis, 1 rue des Entrepreneurs, 1000 Tunis (tel: (1) 333 945; fax: (1) 340 796; e-mail: ccitunis@planet.tn).

Conferences/Conventions: The following organisation can supply information: Direction du Marketing at the Office National du Tourisme Tunisien (see Contact Addresses section).

Climate

Tunisia has a warm climate all year. Best periods are spring and autumn. Temperatures can be extremely high inland. Winter is mild and has the highest rainfall.

Required clothing: Lightweights in summer, mediumweights and rainwear in winter. Sunglasses are advised.

History and Government

History: Modern-day Tunisia was the centre of the Carthaginian civilisation, which challenged the dominance of both the Greek and Roman empires in the Mediterranean between the sixth and first centuries BC; Carthage itself was approximately 16km (ten miles) north of the present capital, Tunis. During the colonial era, Tunisia was ruled by a hereditary monarchy, until the French made the country a protectorate in 1883. Nationalist pressure for independence began in 1934, with the formation of the Néo-Destour (New Constitution) Party (NDP) under the leadership of Habib Bourguiba. Internal self-government was granted in 1955; independence as a constitutional monarchy under the Bey of Tunis came a year later. In 1957, the Bey was overthrown and a republic proclaimed, with Bourguiba as president.

Despite independence, the French insisted on holding onto a naval base at Bizerta, on the northern coast. This was lost in 1963, after a naval blockade by the Tunisians and several months of heavy fighting. The ruling Parti Socialiste Destourien (renamed Rassemblement Constitutionel Démocratique in 1988) and successor to the NDP, has maintained a strong grip. Bourguiba pursued unsuccessful socialist policies in the early part of his regime but opened the economy up to foreign investment and allowed the development of a private sector in the 1970s.

By the crude measure of per capita domestic income, the lot of the Tunisians greatly improved during this second phase. At the time of his fall from power in November 1987, Bourguiba had been in control for 30 years – at first through elections to the single party and after 1975 as President-for-Life. Following a pronouncement by his own team of doctors that Bourguiba was no longer of sound mind, Prime Minister Zine El Abidine Ben Ali assumed the presidency unopposed. Despite its relatively small size, Tunisia has played a consistently important diplomatic role in the region.

In 1982, following the expulsion of the bulk of the PLO – including all its top leadership – from Lebanon, after the Israeli invasion (see Lebanon), many Lebanese were taken in by Tunisia. The foreign ministry was also involved in the negotiations leading to the resolution of the Iran–Iraq war and the delicate manoeuvring between Libya and the West over the Lockerbie affair. North African issues also play an important role in the government’s foreign policy. The Tunisians played an important role in the creation of the Union of the Arab Maghreb in 1989 – conceived as a political and economic bloc in North Africa and comprising Algeria, Libya, Morocco, Mauritania and Tunisia. In the last few years, Tunisian foreign policy has tilted away from its pro-Western slant of the 1990s; relations with Sudan have been restored, while those with Israel have been curtailed or cut.

The development of the Union has been overshadowed, in recent years, by the civil war in Algeria – the government was initially concerned by the growth of the Islamic An-Nahda movement, however, the latter’s influence failed to match that of its counterparts elsewhere in the Middle East. As such, Tunisia has been spared the levels of political violence in neighbouring Algeria. Against this background, the government embarked on a cautious reform programme, with a series of complementary political and economic alterations. These have been undertaken with a view to building economic relations with the European Union, with whom Tunisia signed an association and partnership agreement – the first of its type – in 1995. However, a number of terrorist incidents – especially the killing of the a group of German tourists in April 2002 – has forced the government to take firm measures against alleged Islamic militants.

The domestic political reforms instituted by the government allowed candidates other than those from the RCD to stand for election, although there remained definite limits to the degree of political dissent the government was prepared to tolerate. The RCD continues to hold a substantial majority in the Majlis al-Nuwaab (Chamber of Deputies). A presidential poll was held in March 1994 and Ben Ali was ‘re-elected’ with 99.9 per cent of the vote. At legislative elections held at the same time, half of the 19 seats reserved for the opposition were allocated to the Democratic Socialists and the others divided between the Mouvement de la Renovation (formerly the Communists), the Union Démocratique Unioniste and the Parti de l'Unité Populaire. The 1999 presidential vote produced a similar result, giving Ben Ali a third consecutive term. A fourth term is forbidden under the constitution, although there are already indications that Ben Ali – in common with other long-serving presidents throughout the world – is seeking to alter the specifications to allow him another term of office.


Government: Under the 1959 constitution, legislation is the responsibility of the unicameral Chamber of Deputies, whose 163 members are elected by universal adult suffrage for five years. All but 19 seats, which are reserved for opposition parties under a system of proportional representation, are elected under a simple majority system. The president, who is also elected by universal suffrage for a five-year term, is Head of State and appoints a Prime Minister and Council of Ministers who exercise executive power under his leadership. There are also various advisory bodies – the State Council, the Social and Economic Council, the Constitutional Council and the Higher Islamic Council.


Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.