Uzbekistan Overview Country Overview Uzbekistan is bordered by Afghanistan, Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. The south and east are dominated by the Tien-Shan and Pamir-Alai mountain ranges and the Kyzyl Kum Desert lies to the northeast. The capital, Tashkent, lies in the valley of the River Chirchik. A massive earthquake in 1966 flattened much of the old city. The new buildings are of little architectural interest. Samarkand, founded over 5000 years ago, flourished until the 16th century. The centre of the historical town is the Registan Square, where three huge Islamic seminaries – including Shir-Dor and Tillya-Kari – built between the 15th and 17th centuries dominate the area. Bukhara lies west of Samarkand and was once a centre of learning renowned throughout the Islamic world. There are more than 350 mosques and 100 religious colleges. The centre of historical Bukhara is the Shakristan, which contains the Ark, or palace complex of the Emirs. Plov is the staple food and consists of chunks of mutton, shredded yellow turnip and rice fried in a large wok. Tashkent has a variety of theatres which show everything from European operas to traditional Uzbek dancing and music. General Information Area: 447,400 sq km (172,740 sq miles). Population: 23,954,000 (1998). Population Density: 53.5 per sq km. Capital: Tashkent. Population: 2,117,500 (1997). GEOGRAPHY: Uzbekistan is bordered by Afghanistan to the south, Turkmenistan to the west, Kazakhstan to the north, Kyrgyzstan to the northeast and Tajikistan to the east and has a colourful and varied countryside. The south and east are dominated by the Tien-Shan and Pamir-Alai mountain ranges and the Kyzyl Kum Desert lies to the northeast. The northwestern autonomous region of Karakalpakstan is bounded by the Aral Sea and the sparsely populated Ustyurt Plateau with its vast cotton fields. Government: Republic. Declared independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. Head of State: President Islam Karimov since 1990. Head of Government: Prime Minister Otkir Sultanov since 1995. Language: The official language is Uzbek, a Turkic tongue closely related to Kazakh and Kyrgyz. There is a small Russian-speaking minority. Many people involved with tourism speak English. The Government has stated its intention to change the Cyrillic script to the Latin. Religion: Predominantly Sunni Muslim, with Shia (15 per cent), Russian Orthodox and Jewish minorities. Time: GMT + 5. Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz. Round two-pin continental plugs are standard. Communications:   Telephone Country code: 998. Area code for Tashkent: 71. IDD is available, but calls from hotel rooms still need to be booked either from reception or from the floor attendant. International calls can also be made from main post offices (in Tashkent on Prospekt Navoi). Direct-dial calls within the CIS are obtained by dialling 8 and waiting for another dial tone and then dialling the city code. Calls within the city limits are free of charge. Mobile telephone GSM 900 network. Operators include Butzel (website: www.buztel.com), Coscom (website: www.coscom.uz), Daewoo, Unitel, Uzdunrobita (website: www.uzdunrobita.uz) and Uzmacom (website: www.uzmacom.uz). Coverage is limited to certain areas around Tashkent. Fax Services are available from major hotels for residents only. Internet ISPs include Eastlink (website: www.eastlink.uz). Internet cafes exist in Tashkent. Telegram Services are available from post offices in large towns. Post Letters to Western Europe and the USA can take between two weeks and two months. Stamped envelopes can be bought from post offices. Addresses should be laid out in the following order: country, postcode, city, street, house number and lastly the person’s name. Post office hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800. The Main Post Office in Tashkent (see above) is open until 1900. Visitors can also use the post offices situated in the major hotels. There are a number of international courier services based in Tashkent. Press There are no independent daily newspapers in Uzbekistan. The main editions are published in Tashkent and include Pravda Vostoka and Molodiozh Uzbekistana (both published in Russian); and Narodnoye Slovo and Khalk Suzi (in Russian and Uzbek). BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change. BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice): MHz 17.79 15.58 11.76 1.413 Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov): MHz 17.74 11.71 9.645 6.110 Passport/Visa   Passport Required? Visa Required? Return Ticket Required? British Yes Yes No Australian Yes Yes No Canadian Yes Yes No USA Yes Yes/1 No OtherEU Yes Yes No Japanese Yes Yes No PASSPORTS: Passport valid for six months after departure date required by all. VISAS: Required by all except the following: (a) nationals of the CIS (except nationals of Tajikistan and Turkmenistan who do require a visa); (b) transit passengers continuing their journey within 24 hours by the same or first connecting aircraft provided holding valid onward or return documentation and not leaving the transit area. Types of visa and cost: Tourist and Business. Single-entry: US$40 (seven days); US$50 (15 days); US$60 (30 days); US$80 (three months); US$120 (six months); US$160 (one year). Multiple-entry: US$150 (six months); US$250 (one year). Group: US$15 (15 days); US$25 (30 days). Transit: US$20 (24 hours); US$25 (48 hours); US$30 (72 hours); US$40 (double-entry). Note: 1. US nationals can obtain multiple-entry visas issued for up to four years for a cost of US$45. Note: Visa regulations within the CIS are liable to change at short notice. Validity: Tourist visas are normally Single-entry/exit and are valid for the duration of the tour. Business visas are Multiple-entry, valid for six months in the first instance and extendable. Visas should be used within one month of date of issue. Application to: Uzbek Embassies where they exist. It is possible to arrange to pick up a pre-arranged visa at the international arrivals lounge at Tashkent Airport if arriving from a country where Uzbekistan has no diplomatic representation. Uzbekistan Airways requires proof that a visa has been granted. Joining a group or package tour is the easiest way of obtaining a visa. Application requirements: (a) Valid passport with at least one blank page. (b) Two completed application forms. (c) Two passport-size photos. (d) Fee, payable on collection of visa. (e) Stamped, self-addressed envelope, if applying by post. Tourist: (a)-(e) and, (f) Confirmation of hotel reservation and details of length of trip. Applications are usually made through a travel agent. Business: (a)-(e) and, (f) A business invitation from Uzbekistan givng details of activities to be undertaken and length of stay in Uzbekistan. This letter can be sent directly to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Uzbekistan, who will then contact the Embassy directly, giving permission for the stay. Private visits: (a)-(e) and, (f) Letter of invitation from friends/relatives endorsed by the immigration department of the Ministry of Internal Affairs in Uzbekistan. Transit: (a)-(e) and, (f) Airline or travel ticket to final destination. Note: (a) Tourists must have booked a tour with a recognised tour company. (b) Visitors staying longer than three days must register with the Ministry of Internal Affairs. However, most hotels will automatically do this on behalf of the visitor. Working days required: Eight days should be allowed for a Tourist visa. Business visas can be obtained more quickly but this should not be relied upon. Temporary residence: It is possible to apply for temporary residence. The government of Uzbekistan officially requires visitors to carry a medical certificate proving they are free of HIV, but this is rarely enforced. Money Currency: Uzbek Sum (Sum) = 100 tiyn. Notes are in denominations of Sum1000, 500, 200, 100, 50, 25, 10, 5, 3 and 1. Coins are in denominations of 50, 10, 5, 3 and 1 tiyn. Currency exchange: Tourists and business persons without special status have to pay for hotels, hotel services and transport in hard currency; US Dollars are the most widely acceptable. All bills are normally settled in cash. It is illegal to change money on the black market and penalties can be harsh. Banks and the currency exchange bureaux in major hotels will change at the official rates. Credit & debit cards: Acceptable in some of the major hotels in tourist centres. Uzbekistan has said that it intends to introduce its own Visa card in the near future. Travellers cheques: Limited acceptance. Currency restrictions: The import of foreign currency is unlimited, but should be declared on arrival. Travellers importing sums in excess of US$1000 may be subject to a body search. The export of foreign currency is permitted. Travellers who have imported sums in excess of US$2000 are required to provide proof of lawful exchange into Sum, otherwise a fine of 30 per cent of the amount imported will be payable. The import and export of local currency is unlimited. Exchange rate indicators The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Sum against Sterling and the US Dollar: Date May ’02 Aug ’02 Nov ’02 Feb ’03 £1.00= 1048.18 1162.14 1427.48 1533.72 $1.00= 719.26 764.11 902.67 963.24 Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1730. Duty Free The following goods may be imported into Uzbekistan by passengers aged 18 and older without incurring customs duty: 1000 cigarettes or 1kg of tobacco products; 1.5l of alcoholic beverages and 2l of wine; a reasonable quantity of perfume use for personal use; other goods for personal use up to a value of US$10,000. Note: All valuable items such as jewellery, cameras and computers should be declared on arrival. Prohibited imports: Firearms, ammunition, drugs, photographs and printed matter directed against the country, live animals and fruit or vegetables. Prohibited exports: Items more than 100 years old and those of special cultural importance require special permission for export. When buying items that may be more than 100 years old, ask for a certificate stating the age of the item(s). Precious metals, stones, furs and arms and ammunition are also prohibited. Public Holidays Nov 18 2002 Flag Day. Dec 6-8 Ramadan Khait (End of Ramadan). Dec 8 Constitution Day. Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Feb 12 Kurban Khait (Feast of the Sacrifice). Mar 8 International Women’s Day. Mar 20-22 Navrus. May 1 Labour Day. May 9 Day of Memory and Respect. May 14 Prophet’s Birthday. Sep 1 Independence Day. Nov 18 Flag Day. Nov 26-28 Ramadan Khait (End of Ramadan). Dec 8 Constitution Day. Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Feb 2 Kurban Khait (Feast of the Sacrifice). Mar 8 International Women’s Day. Mar 20-22 Navrus. May 1 Labour Day. May 2 Prophet’s Birthday. May 9 Day of Memory and Respect. Sep 1 Independence Day. Nov 14-16 Ramadan Khait (End of Ramadan). Nov 18 Flag Day. Dec 8 Constitution Day. Note: Muslim festivals are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximations. For further information, consult the World of Islam appendix. Health   Special Precautions Certificate Required Yellow Fever No No Cholera Yes 1 Typhoid and Polio 2 N/A Malaria No N/A 1: Following WHO guidelines issued in 1973, a cholera vaccination certificate is not a condition of entry to Uzbekistan. However, cholera is a serious risk in this country and precautions are essential. Up-to-date advice should be sought before deciding whether these precautions should include vaccination, as medical opinion is divided over its effectiveness. See the Health appendix for more information. 2: Vaccination against typhoid is advised. Food & drink: All water, particularly outside main centres, should be regarded as being a potential health risk. Water used for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should have first been boiled or otherwise sterilised. Milk is pasteurised and dairy products are safe for consumption. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish, preferably served hot. Pork, salad and mayonnaise may carry increased risk. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled. Other risks: Immunisation against hepatitis A and meningococcal meningitis is advised. Hepatitis B and E occur. Trachoma is quite common. Tickborne encephalitis and diphtheria also occur. Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix. Health care: Emergency health care is available free of charge for visitors although, as in most parts of the former Soviet Union, medical care in Uzbekistan is inadequate and there are extreme financial problems. Doctors and hospitals often expect cash payment for health services. There is a severe shortage of basic medical supplies, including disposable needles, anaesthetics, antibiotics and vaccines. Travellers are therefore advised to take a well-equipped first-aid kit with them containing basic medicines and any prescriptions that they may need. For minor difficulties, visitors are advised to ask the management at their hotel for help. In case of emergency, travellers should get a referral from either the Tashkent International Medical Clinic or from the appropriate Embassy, since foreigners are strongly advised not to approach local health care facilities without somebody who knows local conditions and the language. For major problems, visitors are well advised to seek help outside the country. Travel insurance is essential. Travel - International AIR: The national airline, Uzbekistan Airways (HY), currently flies from London (four flights a week), Birmingham, Amsterdam, Athens, Frankfurt/M, Beijing, Bahrain, Bangkok, Delhi, Dhaka, Istanbul, Jeddah, Rome, Moscow, Kuala Lumpur, New York, Seoul, Sharjah and Tel Aviv. It also flies to most destinations within the CIS. Tashkent is also served by a number of other international carriers: Lufthansa (Frankfurt/M and Almaty), Pakistan International Airways (Islamabad), Turkish Airlines (Istanbul) and Xinjiang Airlines (Urumchi in China). Flights to Tajikistan have been suspended since the Tajik civil war at the end of 1992. For further information, contact Uzbekistan Airways in Tashkent (tel: (71) 254 9919). HY Travel in London are agents for Uzbekistan Airways (see Contact Addresses section). Approximate flight times: From Tashkent to London is 7 hours (direct), to Moscow is 3 hours 30 minutes, to Frankfurt/M is 6 hours, to Tel Aviv is 4 hours 30 minutes, to Istanbul is 3 hours 30 minutes, to Delhi is 3 hours 30 minutes, to Bangkok is 6 hours 30 minutes and to Beijing is 5 hours 30 minutes. International airports: Tashkent International Airport (TAS) is in the south of the town, about 11km (7 miles) from the centre. Facilities include left luggage, bureau de change (open 24 hours), duty-free shops, restaurants and bars. It is served by buses which run every 10-20 minutes (travel time – 30-60 minutes). Trains connect the airport with the centre (travel time – 10-20 minutes) and taxis are readily available (travel time – 15-20 minutes). Departure tax: US$10. RAIL: Tashkent is the nodal point for rail services from Central Asia. Lines lead west to Ashgabat (Turkmenistan), south to Samarkand and on to Dushanbe (Tajikistan), east to Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) and Almaty (Kazakhstan) and north to Moscow (Russian Federation). From Tashkent, along the Saratov-Syr Darya Line, the journey to Moscow takes two and a half days. There is also a spur line to the Fergana Valley in the east of the country, which leads to Osh in Kyrgyzstan. It is possible to connect to China through Almaty; and to Iran and the Middle East (via Turkmenistan). Foreigners have to pay for rail tickets in hard currency, preferably US Dollars, but it is still a cheap option by Western standards. ROAD: Uzbekistan has road connections to all its neighbours. The border between Afghanistan and Uzbekistan is closed to all except Uzbek and Afghan nationals. Travellers should exercise caution around the Kyrgyz–Uzbek border as some violent incidents have occured. It is not advisable to bring your own car. Contact your local Embassy for details. Bus: There are services to all the neighbouring countries although the occasional border closures between Uzbekistan and Tajikistan make this route unreliable. Long-distance buses leave from the Tashkent bus station near the metro station. Foreigners have to pay for tickets in hard currency. Car hire: It is possible to hire cars with drivers for long journeys; they will normally ask to be paid in US Dollars. The best place to look for these is at the long-distance bus and train stations. Travel - Internal AIR: Uzbekistan Airways (HY) flies to all the major towns and cities in Uzbekistan on a regular basis. Destinations include Tashkent, Samarkand, Navoi (which is 45 minutes by bus from Bukhara), Nukus, Karshi, Termez, Andijan and Namangan. Tickets can be bought at the Uzbekistan Airways ticket agency opposite the Hotel Russia on Shota Rustaveli in Tashkent or at the departure terminal of the airport. International flights booked in Tashkent should be paid for in US Dollars although some credit cards are accepted. It is preferrable to pay for domestic flights in Sum. Approximate flight times: From Tashkent to Termez is 1 hour 20 minutes, to Nukus is 2 hours, to Samarkand is 40 minutes, to Navoi is 1 hour and to Namangan is 1 hour 40 minutes. RAIL: There are 3400km (2113 miles) of railways linking Termez, Samarkand, Bukhara, the Fergana Valley and Nukus. There are two railway stations in Tashkent – North and South. The Trans-Caspian Railway traverses the country from Chardzhou in Turkmenistan via Kagan (near Bukhara), Samarkand and Dzhizak, where the railway branches off to serve the capital Tashkent. Passengers should store valuables under the bed or seat, and should not leave the compartment unattended. Tickets can be bought on the ground floor of the Hotel Locomotif or at the OVIR office at the station. ROAD: The Republic of Uzbekistan is served by a reasonable road network. Traffic drives on the right. Bus: Services connect all the major towns within Uzbekistan and are cheap and fairly reliable. Taxi: Taxis and cars for hire can be found in all major towns. It is safer to use officially marked taxis, although many taxis are unlicensed. Travellers are advised to agree a fare in advance, and not to share taxis with strangers. As many of the street names have changed since independence, it is also advisable to ascertain both the old and the new street names when asking directions. Cars can be hired by the trip, by the hour or by the day or week. Documentation: An International Driving Permit will be required when car-hire facilities have been introduced. URBAN: Tashkent is served by taxis, buses, trolleybuses, trams and the only underground in Central Asia. The underground network was expanded in 1991, making it 31km (19 miles) long, with 23 stations. Public transport is cheap and generally reliable. There are regular bus services to all major towns in Uzbekistan. Accommodation HOTELS: Tourists are still required to stay in hotels that are licensed by Uzbektourism, and most hotels are run by them. However, a growing number of independent hotels is now being licensed. It is necessary for visitors to have a slip of paper stamped by the hotel to prove that they have stayed there. Services and facilities are not generally up to Western standards, but efforts are being made to improve them and there is a growing number of western-style hotels owned by foreign companies. Most tourist hotel rooms have a shower and WC en suite, although supplies of soap and toilet paper can be unreliable. All regional capitals have at least one Uzbektourism hotel that will accept foreigners. Many tourists will have booked tours which include accommodation, others will have to pay in US Dollars, unless they have special exemptions. BED & BREAKFAST: There are a few bed & breakfast hotels springing up, but they are small and can be difficult to get into. A new association of bed & breakfasts is being created by the Government. CAMPING: Uzbektourism runs a number of temporary campsites in the mountains. Introduction Uzbekistan lies astride the Silk Road, the ancient trading route between China and the West (for more details see the Silk Road in the China section). The country boasts some of the finest architectural jewels among the Silk Road countries, featuring intricate Islamic tile work, turquoise domes, minarets and preserved relics from the time when Central Asia was a centre of empire and learning. Good examples of this architecture can be found in the ancient walled city of Khiva in Urgench, the winding narrow streets of the old town of Bukhara and Samarkand, known locally as the ‘Rome of the Orient’. The Ferghana Valley, surrounded by the Tian Shan and Pamir mountains, still produces silk and is well worth visiting for its friendly bazaars and landscape of cotton fields, mulberry trees and fruit orchards. Uzbektourism will arrange tours to suit taste and budget. An increasing number of Western tour companies offer packages that take travellers to Tashkent, Bukhara and Samarkand, with all accommodation and travel paid before leaving. Owing to the difficulties of touring independently, travellers with limited time are advised to buy a package and make use of the services of a recognised tour company. TASHKENT: The capital lies in the valley of the River Chirchik and is the fourth-largest city of the CIS. Tashkent has always been an important international transport junction. Unfortunately, it preserves only a small proportion of its architectural past. A massive earthquake in 1966 flattened much of the old city and it was rebuilt with broad, tree-lined streets and the new buildings are of little architectural interest. The earlier buildings lie in the old town to the west of the centre. A myriad of narrow winding alleys, it stands in stark contrast to the more modern Tashkent. Of interest among the older buildings are the 16th-century Kukeldash Madrasa, which is being restored as a museum, and the Kaffali-Shash Mausoleum. Many of the Islamic sites in Tashkent are not open to non-Muslims, and visitors should always ask permission before entering a mosque or other religious building. Tashkent houses many museums of Uzbek and pre-Uzbek culture. These include the State Art Museum, which houses a collection of paintings, ceramics and the Bukharan royal robes. The Museum of Decorative and Applied Arts exhibits embroidered wall hangings and reproduction antique jewellery. As important historical figures, such as Amir Timur – better known as Tamerlane in the West – are being given greater prominence, the exhibits and perspective of the museums are also changing. SAMARKAND: Samarkand is the site of Alexander the Great’s slaying of his friend Cleitos, the pivot of the Silk Road and the city transformed by Timur in the 14th century into one of the world’s greatest capitals. Founded over 5000 years ago, the city flourished until the 16th century before the sea routes to China and the rest of the East diminished its importance as a trading centre. Much of its past glory survives or has been restored. The centre of the historical town is the Registan Square, where three huge madrasas (Islamic seminaries) – including Shir-Dor and Tillya-Kari – built between the 15th and 17th centuries, dominate the area. Decorated with blue tiles and intricate mosaics, they give some idea of the grandeur that marked Samarkand in its heyday. The Bibi Khanym Mosque, not far from the Registan, is testimony to Timur’s love for his wife. Now it is a pale shadow of its former self, having been partly destroyed in the 1897 earthquake, and seems permanently under repair. However, it is still possible to see the breadth of vision of the man who conquered so much of central and south Asia. Timur himself is buried in the Gur Emir. On the ground floor, under the massive cupola, lie the ceremonial graves of Timur and his descendants. The stone that commemorates Timur is reputed to be the largest chunk of Nephrite (jade) in the world. The actual bodies are situated in the basement, which unfortunately is not open to the public. The Shah-i-Zinda is a collection of the graves of some of Samarkand’s dignitaries. The oldest date from the 14th century as Samarkand was starting to recover from the depredations of the Mongol hordes of the 13th century. Other sites of interest in Samarkand include the Observatory of Ulug Beg, Timur’s grandson, which was the most advanced astronomical observatory of its day. There is also the Afrasiab Museum, not far from the observatory, containing a frieze dating from the sixth century which shows a train of gifts for the Sogdian ruler of the day. BUKHARA: West of Samarkand, Bukhara was once a centre of learning renowned throughout the Islamic world. It was here that the great Sheikh Bahautdin Nakshbandi lived. He was a central figure in the development of the mystical Sufi approach to philosophy, religion and Islam. In Bukhara, there are more than 350 mosques and 100 religious colleges. Its fortunes waxed and waned through succeeding empires until it became one of the great Central Asian khanates in the 17th century. The centre of historical Bukhara is the Shakristan, which contains the Ark, or palace complex of the Emirs. Much of this was destroyed by fire in the 1920s, but the surviving gatehouse gives an impression of what the whole must have been like. Near the gatehouse is the Zindan or jail of the Emirs, which has a display of some of the torture methods employed by the Emirs against their enemies. Not far from the Ark, the 47m-high (154ft) Kalyan Minaret, or tower of death, was built in 1127 and, with the Ishmael Samani Mausoleum, is almost the only structure to have survived the Mongols. It was from here that convicted criminals were thrown to their deaths. Other sites of interest in Bukhara include the Kalyan Mosque, which is open to non-Muslims, the Ulug Beg Madrasa – the oldest in Central Asia – and, opposite, the Abdul Aziz Madrasa. Bukhara, with the narrow, twisting alleyways of its old quarter, is full of architectural gems. ELSEWHERE: Khiva, northeast of Bukhara, is near the modern and uninteresting city of Urgench. Khiva is younger and better preserved than either Samarkand or Bukhara. The city still lies within the original city walls, and has changed little since the 18th century. Part of its attraction is its completeness; although it has been turned into a museum town and is hardly inhabited, it is possible to imagine what it was like in its prime when it was a market for captured Russian and Persian slaves. The Art Gallery in Nukus, the capital of Karakalpakstan, in the west of the country, has the best collection of Russian avant-garde art outside St Petersburg. The Chatkalsky Reserve in the western Tian-Shan is a narrow unspoilt gorge and contains snow tigers, the rare Tian-Shan grey bear and the Berkut eagle. Sport & Activities Mountaineering: The mountains in the south of the country offer good trekking. There are high peaks for those wanting a challenge, while easier treks can be done in the foothills and on the plateaux. The best time to go is between March and November. There are many opportunities for serious mountaineering, and Uzbekistan contains some of the world’s highest peaks including Peak Pobeda (7439m/24,399ft), Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105m/23,304ft) and Peak Khan-Tengri (6995m/22,943ft). Equipment can be transported to base camps by helicopter. Recommended sites for ice climbing include the Matcha, Turkestan and Gissar ridges. Vertical rock faces for rock climbing can be found in the Fan mountains (at Maria-Mirali, Chapdara, Bodkhana and Zamok) and on the Matchi Ridge (at Aksu, Sabakh and Asan-Usan). Cycling: Tours are available for cyclists of all levels. Easier rides can be done in the Ferghana Valley and around Tashkent, where lake and mountain scenery can be enjoyed. The more experienced cyclist might prefer to take the Silk Road from Tashkent via Lake Aidarkul to Khiva. Other: There is skiing in the mountains above Tashkent. The deepest caves in Asia are in Uzbekistan at Boi-Bulok (1415m/4641ft) and Kievskaya (990m/3247ft). These are suitable for experienced cavers only. Beautiful gypsum formations can be seen at the Kugitang cave, while the caves of Baisuntau contain mummified bears and those in western Tian Shan feature underground rivers and lakes. The martial arts, particularly Taekwon-Do, are also popular. Rafting and kayaking are possible on the Syr Darya, Angren, Ugen, Chatkal and Pskem river, the best time being Sep-Oct. Social Profile Food & Drink: Uzbek food is similar to that of the rest of Central Asia. Plov is the staple food for everyday and celebrations, and usually consists of chunks of mutton, shredded red and yellow carrot and rice fried in a cast iron or aluminium pot. There are dozens of variations of this dish. Shashlyk (skewered chunks of mutton barbecued over charcoal – kebabs – served with sliced raw onions) and lipioshka (rounds of unleavened bread) are served in restaurants and are often sold on street corners and make an appetising meal. Uzbeks pride themselves on the quality and variety of their bread. Samsa (samosas) are also sold in the street, but the quality is variable. Manty are large boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and shorpa is a meat and vegetable soup. During the summer and autumn, there is a wide variety of fruit: grapes, pomegranates, apricots – which are also dried and sold at other times of the year – and, dwarfing them all, mountains of honeydew and watermelons. In general, hotel food shows a strong Russian influence: borcht is a beetroot soup, entrecote is well-done steak, cutlet are grilled meat balls and strogan is the local equivalent of Beef Stroganoff. Pirmeni originated in Ukraine and are small boiled dumplings of meat and vegetables, similar to ravioli, sometimes served in a vegetable soup. There are a number of restaurants that serve both European and Korean food (Stalin transported many Koreans from their home in the east of the former Soviet Union, believing them to be a security threat). There is a hard-currency restaurant at the top of the Hotel Uzbekistan that serves Korean and Chinese food. Tea is the staple drink of Central Asia, and chai-khanas (tea houses) can be found almost everywhere in Uzbekistan, full of old men chatting the afternoon away with a pot of tea in the shade. Beer, wine, vodka, brandy and sparkling wine (shampanski) are all widely available in restaurants. Kefir, a thick drinking yoghurt, is often served with breakfast. Nightlife: Tashkent has a variety of theatres which show everything from European operas to traditional Uzbek dancing and music. The Navoi theatre, opposite the Tashkent Hotel, shows opera and ballet. The prices are low by Western standards; shows generally start at 1800. There is also a number of themed Western-style bars, restaurants and discos. Shopping: The best place to experience Central Asia is in the bazaars. The bazaars of Tashkent and Samarkand offer goods ranging from herbs and spices to Central Asian carpets. In the Alaiski Bazaar in Tashkent, it is possible to buy decorated Uzbek knives. Silk is still produced in the country and well-priced silks can be bought at large department stores. Many museums have small shops which sell a variety of modern reproductions and some original items. It is possible to buy carpets and embroidered wall hangings. Bukhara is famous for its gold embroidery, and visitors can buy elaborately embroidered traditional Uzbek hats. Visitors should be aware that it is illegal to export anything more than 100 years old or items which have a cultural significance. Shopping hours: Food shops open 0800-1700, all others open 0900-1900. Social Conventions: Lipioshka (bread) should never be laid upside down and should never be put on the ground, even if it is in a bag. It is normal to remove shoes but not socks when entering someone’s house or sitting down in a chai-khana. Shorts are rarely seen in Uzbekistan and, worn by women, are likely to provoke unwelcome attention from the local male population. Avoid ostentatious displays of wealth (eg jewellery) in public places. Business Profile Economy: Agriculture is the main component of Uzbekistan’s economy. Livestock is reared in the steppes while a variety of crops, including grains, fruit and vegetables, is grown in the more fertile valleys. In addition, vast quantities of cotton are produced in formerly arid areas fed by artificial irrigation schemes. These have produced one of the world’s great ecological catastrophes in the Aral Sea, once one of the world’s largest inland seas, which has been deprived of the bulk of its river sources and has consequently contracted to one third of its original size. The country has substantial natural resources, especially natural gas, which is an important export earner, and oil. Uzbekistan also boasts the world’s largest opencast gold mine and has deposits of silver, uranium, copper, lead, zinc and tungsten. Machinery and vehicles account for the bulk of manufacturing output. Self-sufficiency in food and energy products meant that Uzbekistan did not suffer as badly as other republics from the collapse of the Soviet Union and its economic system. This made reform, upon which Uzbekistan embarked in 1994, a somewhat easier prospect than for many of Uzbekistan’s neighbours. Two years earlier, Uzbekistan had joined the IMF, the World Bank, and the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development (as a ‘Country of Operation’). A new currency, the Sum, was introduced in 1996, by which time a large portion of the economy was privately owned. More recently, the economy has stagnated as expected foreign investment failed to materialise and the Government lost its enthusiasm for reform. The 1997 Asian financial crisis, followed closely by the Russian economic crisis the following year, further prompted the Government to try and reassert its control of the economy and insulate it as far as possible from outside pressures by applying stringent currency and export controls. Current annual GDP growth is around three percent, while inflation has risen to 27 per cent. Uzbekistan has joined the Economic Co-operation Organisation of ex-Soviet republics and former socialist countries. Its main trading partners are the Russian Federation, Kazakhstan and Tajikistan, along with Switzerland (the largest export market after the Russian Federation), Germany, South Korea, the UK and Turkey. Business: Uzbekistan’s government is actively encouraging foreign investment, particularly in the processing industries for its raw material output. The January 1994 decree puts into law a number of tax incentives for foreign investors, formally lays out guarantees for property protection, and promises a faster and less bureaucratic method of registration for foreign concerns. Other areas in which the Uzbeks would like to encourage foreign investment include the financial sector, energy production, extraction and processing of mineral raw materials, textiles, telecommunications, tourism and ecology. All foreign companies currently have to be registered with the Ministry of Foreign Economic Relations. Office hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800. Commercial Information: The following organisations can offer advice: Ministry of Foreign Economic Relations, ul. T Shevchenko 1, 700029 Tashkent (tel: (71) 138 5000 or 138 5123/5; fax: (71) 138 5200 or 138 5252; e-mail: secretary@mfer.uz; website: www.mfer.uz); or Tashkent International Business Centre, 107B Amir-Temur St, 700084 Tashkent (tel: (71) 137 0934; fax: (71) 137 0935; e-mail: ibc@albatros.uz; website: www.ibc.com.uz/index-eng.html). Information can also be obtained from the US Department of Commerce Business Information Service for the Newly Independent States, USA Trade Center, Stop R*Bisnis, 1401 Constitution Avenue, NW Washington, DC, 20230, USA (tel: (202) 482 4655; fax: (202) 482 2293; e-mail: bisnis@ita.doc.gov; website: www.bisnis.doc.gov). Climate Uzbekistan has an extreme continental climate. It is generally warmest in the south and coldest in the north. Temperatures in December average -8°C (18°F) in the north and 0°C (32 °F) in the south. However, extreme fluctuations can take temperatures as low as -35°C (-31°F). During the summer months, temperatures can climb to 45°C (113°F) and above. Humidity is low. The best time to visit is during the spring and autumn. History and Government History: The territory of modern-day Uzbekistan and its close neighbours have seen many empires rise and fall. The Sogdians, the Macedonians, the Huns, the Mongolians, the Seljuks, the Timurids and the Khanates of Samarkand, Bukhara Khiva and Khorezm all held sway here at one time or another. Central Asia really came of age with the development of the Silk Road from China to the West. Samarkand and Bukhara lay astride this, the most valuable trading route of its day. The riches that it brought were used to build fabulous mosques and madrassars, most of which were destroyed by the Mongol hordes in the 13th century. Much of the damage was repaired and new cities were built by Timur the Lame in the 14th century. Timur conquered all before him and, at its height, his empire stretched from Moscow and Baghdad and as far west as Ankara in Turkey. After his death, his empire crumbled – although his grandson, Babur, went on to found the Moghul Dynasty in India – and Central Asia was split into warring Khanates. The Russians had had their eyes on the lands over their southern border since Peter the Great sent his first military mission to Khiva in 1717. It was to be another 150 years before they started to make any considerable headway. In 1865, General Kaufmann took Tashkent and signed agreements with the Khans. There were Russian client Khans in Khiva until 1920. The Bolsheviks were resisted in Central Asia by bands known as Basmachi until the 1930s; they were finally suppressed and Moscow took control. The history of Central Asia under Soviet rule is one of exploitation. Uzbekistan was used, as it had been under the tsars, as a place of internal exile. Stalin, fearing the power of the minorities in the Soviet Union, transported thousands of people in cattle cars into Uzbekistan and the surrounding republics. These included Germans, Koreans, Meshketi Turks, Chechens and Tatars. Part of the plan was to dilute the aboriginal populace and so weaken it. Another element of this plan was to create economies that could not function without Russia so, for instance, Uzbekistan was turned into a cotton monoculture and most of the cotton it produced was processed north of the Urals, in Russia and Ukraine. Uzbekistan assumed independence in 1991 upon the break up of the Soviet Union. Since then, the ex-communist People’s Democratic Party of Uzbekistan, in conjunction with allied smaller parties and under the undisputed leadership of Islam Karimov, have maintained a firm grip on power. Karimov first came to power in 1989 and was elected president of the independent state in 1991. Since then he has been re-elected more than once – most recently in January 2000 – with overwhelming majorities and against nominal opposition. In April 2002, Karimov organised a referendum to extend the length of his current term from five to eight years. Domestic opposition is divided between secular democratic forces and Islamic parties. Erk (Freedom), Birlik (Democracy) and a third organisation, Adolat (Justice), comprising the secular opposition, have combined in the Democratic Opposition Co-ordinating Council. The most powerful Islamic forces are those associated with the Islamic Renaissance Party (IRP), which has made considerable political headway in other former Soviet Central Asian republics. The IRP is presently banned; the secular democratic parties find themselves banned more often than not. Only the PDPU and the allied Progress of the Fatherland party were allowed to contest the most recent election in 1995. Karimov maintains that the economy should take precedence over political development and only when the economy is strong enough will political plurality be allowed. This has been made more difficult by the events in neighbouring Tajikistan, where heavy fighting has been under way for much of the 1990s and Uzbek peacekeepers were engaged. The government also has been worried about occasional outbreaks of inter-ethnic violence in the Fergana valley region. The government faces armed opposition from the militants of the Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan (IMU), which has waged a campaign against the government for most of the last decade. The IMU has been formally classified as a ‘terrorist’ organisation by the USA, mainly in order to secure the Uzbek government’s support for its Afghan war (see below). For that reason, the West has been largely content to ignore growing domestic repression and the capriciousness of the Karimov regime. Abroad, Uzbekistan’s most important bilateral relation is with Russia. There are also growing links with Turkey and Japan. But it is the USA that has made the greatest inroads in the wake of the 11 September 2001 terrorist attacks. Uzebekistan had two key assets to offer – a shared border with Afghanistan and a close relationship with elements of the anti-Taleban Northern Alliance, specifically the ethnic Uzbek forces of General Dostam. Both proved valuable in the successful campaign to overthrow the Taleban regime and the Americans have now established a relatively small but permanent presence in the country. Government: Under the 1992 constitution, the supreme legislative body is the 250-seat Oly Majlis. Executive power rests with the elected president. The day-to-day running of the country is carried out by the Cabinet of Ministers, which answers to the president, who is also Head of State. Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.