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Food & Drink: Vietnamese cooking is varied and usually very good. It is a mixture of Vietnamese, Chinese and French traditions, with a plethora of regional specialities. As in all countries of the region, rice or noodles usually provide the basis of a meal. Not surprisingly, fish is plentiful. Breakfast is generally noodle soup locally known as pho (pronounced ‘fur’). French-style baguettes are available throughout Vietnam. Local specialities include nem (pork mixed with noodles, eggs and mushrooms wrapped in rice paper, fried and served hot) and banh chung (glutinous rice, pork and onions wrapped in large leaves and cooked for up to 48 hours, to be eaten cold at any time). Vietnamese dishes are not complete without nuoc mam (a fish sauce) or mam tom (a shrimp sauce). Western-style cooking is on offer wherever tourists or business people are found in any numbers.
Green tea is refreshing and available everywhere. Apart from baguettes, the French culinary legacy also embraces rich, fresh, filter coffee, usually brewed on the table in front of the customer. Vietnamese often have a fondness for beer; it is possible to get both local and imported brands. When in Hanoi, it is worth trying the local draught beer available at street stalls. It is called Bia Hoi and is not only cheap, but free of additives. Rice wine is also a favourite throughout the country. It is generally extremely potent.
Shopping: Local specialities include lacquer painting, reed mats, embroidery, tailor-made ao dais (female national costume) and mother-of-pearl inlay on ornaments and furniture, not to mention the ubiquitous conical hat. Shopping hours: Mon-Sun 0730-1200 and 1300-1630.
Special Events: Most regions, particularly where the minority groups live, have their own traditional festivals incorporating music, opera and dance. Têt (Lunar New Year) and important Buddhist festivals are celebrated during February and March each year. Although celebrated, Buddhist and Christian festivals are not considered national holidays. The following is a selection of events taking place in 2003:
Feb 1-3 Têt Festival (Lunar New Year celebrations), throughout Vietnam. Feb 1-Apr 30 Perfume Pagoda Festival, Juong Son Village. Mar Thay Pagoda Festival, Thuy Khe Village. Apr Lac Long Quan Festival, Binh Minh. Sep 4-5 Do Son Buffalo Fights, Haiphong.
Social Conventions: Handshaking and a vocal greeting is normal. Clothing should be kept simple, informal and discreet. Avoid shorts if possible as they are usually only worn by children. Footwear should be removed when entering Buddhist pagodas. Vietnamese people should not be touched on the head. Photography: There are restrictions at ports, airports and harbours, and in similar areas elsewhere. It is courteous to ask permission first before taking photographs of people. Tipping: Officially prohibited but widely practised, especially in the south. Discretion is advised.
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