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South Africa
Overview
‘A land of flowers, wine and whale song’
Covering a huge swathe of land, washed by the Atlantic and Indian oceans, South Africa has enormous wealth above and below ground, making it one of the richest natural storehouses on the planet. With staggeringly beautiful rural areas such as the Cape Winelands, the towering dunes of the Wild Coast, the magnificent game parks of Kruger and Zululand, and the Kalahari and Karoo deserts, barren for much of the year but a carpet of flowers in spring, the possibilities for tourists are endless. Alternatively, visit sophisticated cities such as Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban and Cape Town, or charming historic towns like Stellenbosch or Pietermaritzburg. Even once infamous townships such as Soweto are now growing into vibrant cities in their own right.
South Africa is a ‘rainbow nation’ of many colours and cultures, encompassing Zulu, Tswana, Khosa, Sotho, Indian, Afrikaans and those of British origin. The scars left by the apartheid years are slowly healing, but have left huge inequalities between rich and poor. Despite this, the people are charming hosts, most speak English and all have a fascinating story to tell. The crime rate is still far too high, but with a little common sense, travellers can have a perfect, safe holiday.
Melissa Shales
General Information
Area: 1,219,080 sq km (470,689 sq miles).
Population: 43,291,441 (1999).
Population Density: 35.5 per sq km.
Capital: Pretoria (administrative). Population: 1,080,187 (1991). Cape Town (legislative). Population: 2,350,157 (1991). Bloemfontein (judicial). Population: 300,150 (1991).
GEOGRAPHY: The Republic of South Africa lies at the southern end of the African continent. It is bounded by the Indian Ocean to the east and the Atlantic Ocean to the west, and is bordered to the north by Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique and Swaziland and totally encloses Lesotho. South Africa has three major geographical regions, namely plateau, mountains and the coastal belt. The high plateau has sharp escarpments which rise above the plains, or veld. Despite two major river systems, the Limpopo and the Orange, most of the plateau lacks surface water. Along the coastline are sandy beaches and rocky coves, and the vegetation is shrublike. The mountainous regions which run along the coastline from the Cape of Good Hope to the Limpopo Valley in the northeast of the country are split into the Drakensberg, Nuweveldberg and Stormberg ranges.
Following the 1994 elections, South Africa was organised into nine regions. These comprise the Western Cape with its provincial and national capital of Cape Town, the Eastern Cape with its provincial capital of Bisho, the Northern Cape with its provincial capital Kimberley, KwaZulu-Natal with its provincial capital Pietermaritzburg, the Free State with its provincial capital of Bloemfontein, the North West Province with its provincial capital Mmabatho, the Northern Province with its provincial capital Pietersburg, Mpumalanga with its provincial capital of Nelspruit, and Gauteng with its provincial capital of Johannesburg.
Government: Republic. Gained independence from the UK in 1910. Head of State and Government: President Thabo Mvuyelwa Mbeki since 1999.
Language: The official languages are Afrikaans, English, isiNdebele, isiXhosa, isiZulu, Sepedi, Sesotho, Setswana, Siswati, Tshivenda and Xitsonga.
Religion: Most inhabitants profess Christianity of some form and belong to either Catholic, Anglican and other protestant denominations, Afrikaner Calvinist churches or African independent churches. There are also significant Hindu, Muslim and Jewish communities, and traditional beliefs are still practised widely, sometimes in conjunction with Christianity.
Time: GMT + 2.
Electricity: 220/240 volts AC; 250 volts AC (Pretoria), 50Hz. Three-pin round plugs are in use.
Communications:
Telephone
IDD is available. Country code: 27. Outgoing international code: 09.
Mobile telephone
GSM 900 network. Operators include Cell C Ltd (website: www.cellc.co.za), MTN (website: www.mtn.co.za) and Vodacom (website: www.vodacom.co.za). Coverage extends to most urban areas.
Fax
Most main hotels have this service.
Internet
ISPs include M-Web (website: www.mweb.co.za), I-Africa (website: www.iafrica.com) and Sangonet (website: http://sn.apc.org). Visitors can access their e-mail from Internet cafes around the country.
Telegram
Services are available in all towns.
Post
Airmail to Europe takes up to seven days. Post office hours: Generally Mon-Fri 0830-1630, Sat 0800-1130. Some transactions may not be carried out Mon-Fri after 1530 or Sat after 1100. The smaller post offices close for lunch 1300-1400. Poste Restante services are available throughout the country.
Press
The main newspapers are in English and Afrikaans, and include Business Day, Cape Times, Cape Argus, Mail and Guardian, The Star, Sowetan, Sunday Times and Mercury.
BBC World Service and Voice of America frequencies: From time to time these change.
BBC (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice):
Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov):
Passport/Visa
| | Passport Required? | Visa Required? | Return Ticket Required? | | British | Yes | No | Yes | | Australian | Yes | No | Yes | | Canadian | Yes | No | Yes | | USA | Yes | No | Yes | | OtherEU | Yes | No | Yes | | Japanese | Yes | No | Yes |
PASSPORTS: Passport valid for at least period covering stay in South Africa required by all.
VISAS: Required by all except the following for business and tourist purposes:
(a) nationals of countries referred to in the chart above and nationals of Iceland, Liechtenstein, New Zealand, Norway and Switzerland for unlimited period of stay;
(b) nationals of Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Ecuador, Israel, Jamaica, Malta, Paraguay, San Marino, St Helena, St Vincent and the Grenadines, Swaziland, Uruguay and Venezuela for visits of up to 90 days;
(c) nationals of Antigua & Barbuda, Barbados, Belize, Benin, Bolivia, Botswana, Cape Verde, Costa Rica, Cyprus, Gabon, Guyana, Hong Kong (SAR), Hungary, Jordan, Korea (Rep), Lesotho, Macau (SAR), Malawi, Malaysia, Maldives, Mauritius, Mexico, Namibia, Peru, Seychelles, Singapore, Slovak Republic, Thailand, Turkey and Zambia for visits of up to 30 days;
(d) transit passengers continuing their journey by the same or first connecting aircraft provided holding onward or return documentation and not leaving the airport.
Note: a) Nationals of Bangladesh, China (PR), India, Pakistan, Russian Federation and Sri Lanka must meet specific requirements before any visa application will be considered. Contact the Consulate for further details. (b) Holders of Visitors visas are not allowed to take up employment in South Africa. (c) Unaccompanied children under the age of 18 years must hold written consent from their parents when travelling alone. (d) Study or work permits must be obtained in the country of normal residence before entry into South Africa.
Types of visa and cost: Visitors, Business and Transit: £27. Study Permits: £71-94 (depending on level of education). Work Permits: £94. Workseekers Permits: £47. Nationals of India and Zimbabwe are exempt from visa fees. Other nationals must apply for a visa with the appropriate fee. All fees are subject to change without notice: please check with Embassy or Consulate to confirm costs.
Note: Visa fees will only be requested from nationals of Belize, Benin, Equatorial Guinea, Gabon, Hong Kong (SAR), Kenya, Korea (Rep), Philippines, Singapore, Thailand and Turkey if the intended visit exceeds 30 days.
Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy or High Commission); see Contact Addresses section. Applicants in countries where South Africa is not represented may send their applications to the embassy in the nearest country.
Application requirements: (a) Passport with at least two blank pages valid for the duration of the visit to South Africa. (b) Two passport-size photos. (c) One completed application form (failure to complete the application fully and in detail may result in visa being delayed or refused). (d) Fee (payable by cash, bank draft or postal order). (e) A stamped self-addressed special delivery envelope if applying by post. (f) A valid yellow fever certificate, if travelling through or from a yellow fever endemic area. (g) Proof of sufficient funds to cover visit. (h) Onward/return ticket and, if in transit, proof of sufficient documentation for admission to the country of destination. For Study permits: (a)-(g) and, (h) Letter, with official letterhead, of admission from a South African education institution, confirming exact period of study and accommodation arrangements. (i) Letter from current place of study, if on a student exchange. (j) A refundable cash deposit if the intended period of study is longer than one year. For work permits: (b)-(f) and, (g) Passport with at least two blank pages valid for a minimum of one year. (h) Completed medical form. (i) Time bound contract of employment from South African company stating occupation, position, maximum duration of employment and remuneration offered. (j) Proof of advertisements in a South African national newspaper. (k) CV of applicant. (l) Testimonials and/or service certificates from previous employers indicating, inter alia, the applicant’s competence and/or skills. (m) Proof of qualifications. (n) Proof of registration with appropriate professional organisation in South Africa, where applicable. (o) Certified copy of marriage cerfiicate, Divorce Decree, full birth certificates of children and/or proof of maintenance paid to family members, where applicable. For Business visas: (a)-(g) and, (h) Comprehensive business letters from both the UK and South African companies confirming the purpose, nature and duration of the visit.
Note: (a) In the case of failure to comply with any of these regulations, visitors may be required to leave a cash deposit with the Immigration Officer. (b) Visitors must be of sound mind and body. (c) Medical insurance is required by all visitors.
Working days required: Applications should be made well in advance. Although the minimum processing time is ten days, nationals applying in the UK for a visa are advised to apply well in advance of their departure date. Work permits may take up to 12 weeks to process.
Temporary residence: Temporary residence permits encompass Study, Work or Workseeker Permits. Contact the nearest Consulate (or Consular section at Embassy) for further details.
Money
Currency: Rand (R) = 100 cents. Notes are in denominations of R200, 100, 50, 20 and 10. Coins are in denominations of R5, 2 and 1, and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1 cents.
Currency exchange: Money can be changed at banks, bureaux de change, some hotels, and larger shops and restaurants. Automated foreign exchange machines and ATMs are available at various locations.
Credit & debit cards: MasterCard and Visa are preferred. American Express and Diners Club are also widely accepted. Some ATMs will give cash advances with credit cards. Check with your credit or debit card company for details of merchant acceptability and other facilities which may be available.
Travellers cheques: Valid at banks, hotels, restaurants and shops. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take travellers cheques in Pounds Sterling or US Dollars.
Currency restrictions: The import of local currency is limited to R5000 in cash. The export of local currency is limited to R500 in cash. The import and export of foreign currency is unlimited provided it is declared upon arrival or departure.
Exchange rate indicators
The following figures are included as a guide to the movements of the Rand against Sterling and the US Dollar:
| Date | May ’02 | Aug ’02 | Nov ’02 | Feb ’03 | | £1.00= | 14.58 | 16.45 | 14.99 | 12.83 | | $1.00= | 10.00 | 10.81 | 9.48 | 8.06 |
Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1530, Sat 0800-1130.
Duty Free
The following goods may be imported into South Africa by passengers over 18 years of age without incurring customs duty:
400 cigarettes and 50 cigars and 250g of tobacco; 1l of spirits and 2l of wine; 50ml of perfume and 250ml of eau de toilette; other goods up to a value of R500 per person.
Note: There is a flat-rate duty of 20 per cent on gifts in excess of R1250, up to R10,000.
Prohibited goods: Narcotics, flick-knives, ammunition, explosives and obscene literature.
Public Holidays
Dec 16 2002 Day of Reconciliation. Dec 25 Christmas Day. Dec 26 Day of Goodwill. Jan 1 2003 New Year’s Day. Mar 21 Human Rights Day. Apr 18 Good Friday. Apr 21 Family Day. Apr 27 Freedom Day. May 1 Workers’ Day. Jun 16 Youth Day. Aug 9 National Women’s Day. Sep 24 Heritage Day. Dec 16 Day of Reconciliation. Dec 25 Christmas Day. Dec 26 Day of Goodwill. Jan 1 2004 New Year’s Day. Mar 21 Human Rights Day. Apr 9 Good Friday. Apr 12 Family Day. Apr 27 Freedom Day. May 1 Workers’ Day. Jun 16 Youth Day. Aug 9 National Women’s Day. Sep 24 Heritage Day. Dec 16 Day of Reconciliation. Dec 25 Christmas Day. Dec 26 Day of Goodwill.
Note: Holidays falling on a Sunday are observed the following Monday.
Health
| | Special Precautions | Certificate Required | | Yellow Fever | No | 1 | | Cholera | No | No | | Typhoid and Polio | 2 | N/A | | Malaria | 3 | N/A |
1: A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from travellers over one year of age arriving from infected areas. African countries formerly classified as endemic zones are considered by the South African authorities to be infected areas. The yellow fever vaccination certificate only becomes valid ten days after immunisation.
2: Vaccination against typhoid is advised.
3: Malaria risk, predominantly in the malignant falciparum form, exists throughout the year in the low altitude areas of the Northern Province, Eastern Transvaal (including the Kruger National Park) and northeastern KwaZulu/Natal as far south as the Tugela River. The risk is highest from October to May. Resistance to chloroquine has been reported. It is strongly recommended that visitors to these areas take anti-malaria tablets before entering these zones (tablets are available from pharmacies without prescription). The recommended prophylaxis is chloroquine plus proguanil (World Health Organization), chloroquine plus pyrimethamine (South African High Commission) or mefloquine alone.
Food & drink: Tap water is considered safe to drink in urban areas but may be contaminated elsewhere and sterilisation is advisable. Milk is pasteurised and dairy products are safe for consumption. Local meat, poultry, seafood, fruit and vegetables are generally considered safe to eat.
Other risks: Bilharzia (schistosomiasis) is endemic in the north and east and may be present elsewhere. Avoid swimming and paddling in fresh water. Swimming pools which are well chlorinated and maintained are safe. Hepatitis A occurs and hepatitis B is hyperendemic. Dengue fever and filariasis are present. Rabies may be present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay. For more information, consult the Health appendix.
Health care: Medical facilities are excellent. Health insurance is recommended. A leaflet on health precautions is available from the South African High Commission (see Contact Addresses section).
Travel - International
AIR: South Africa’s national airline is South African Airways (SA). There are frequent direct and indirect flights by numerous major airlines from destinations throughout Europe and North America. For more information regarding airports, contact Airports Company South Africa (tel: (11) 453 9116; fax: (11) 453 9353/4; website: www.airports.co.za).
Approximate flight times: From Cape Town to London is 11 hours 30 minutes, from Durban is 14 hours and from Johannesburg is 10 hours 30 minutes. From Johannesburg to New York is 14 hours 30 minutes.
International airports: Cape Town (CPT) (Cape Town International), 20km (13 miles) east of the city (travel time – 25 minutes). Airport facilities include outgoing duty-free shop, car hire, bank/bureau de change (Mon-Fri 0800-1730, Sat-Sun 0800-1300) and restaurant/bar. Inter-Cape buses run 24 hours and meet all incoming and outgoing flights. Courtesy buses are operated by some hotels. Taxis are available, with a surcharge after 2300.
Bloemfontein (BFN) (Bloemfontein International), 10km (6 miles) east of the city (travel time – 15 minutes). Airport facilities include ATMs, restaurants, car hire and conference facilities. Airport shuttle bus to the city centre (leaving from outside the airport building). Taxis are also available.
Durban (DUR) (Durban International), 16km (10 miles) southwest of the city (travel time – 20 minutes). Airport facilities include outgoing duty-free shop, car hire, bank/bureau de change and bar/restaurant. Airport buses and taxis are available to the city.
Johannesburg (JNB) (Johannesburg International), 22km (14 miles) east of the city (travel time – 35 minutes). Airport facilities include incoming and outgoing duty-free shops, post office, car hire, bank/bureau de change (24 hours), restaurant and bar (1000-2400). Bus services to Pretoria and Johannesburg are available. Buses link Kempton Park with Johannesburg. Taxis are available. Courtesy coaches are operated by some major hotels.
Port Elizabeth (PLZ) (Port Elizabeth International) is 25km (16 miles) from the city (travel time – 30 minutes). Airport facilities include Nedbank ATM, conference facilities, information desk (Mon-Fri 0600-2130, Sat 0700-2100, Sun 0800-2210; tel: (41) 507 7319), restaurants and pubs, shops, a pharmacy, postal services, car hire. Airport shuttle bus to the main international hotels in Port Elizabeth. Taxis are also available.
Departure tax: None.
SEA: The main ports are Cape Town, Durban, Port Elizabeth and East London. St Helena Steamship Co Ltd runs a regular passenger service from Avonmouth to Cape Town. Cruises are offered by various companies between South Africa and the Indian Ocean Islands. Cruise lines include Cunard, Eurocruises, P&O, Peter Deilmann Cruises, Orient Lines, Princess, Radisson Seven Seas and Silversea Cruises.
RAIL: The main routes are from South Africa to Zimbabwe, Botswana and Mozambique. Contact South African Railways (SPOORNET) (website: www.spoornet.co.za) for further information.
ROAD: There are main routes into South Africa from Zimbabwe (via Beit Bridge) and Botswana (via Ramatlabama), Mozambique (now open after a long war – check with local police about state of road and safety), Namibia, Lesotho and Swaziland.
Travel - Internal
AIR: Daily flights link Bloemfontein, Cape Town, Durban, East London, Johannesburg, Kimberley, Port Elizabeth and Pretoria and with other connecting flights to provincial towns. South African Airways operates on the principal routes.
Flight discounts: An ‘Africa Explorer’ fare is available to foreign visitors entering South Africa with an IATA airline. It offers a significant saving for anyone planning to use South African Airways’ internal network. The fare is valid for a minimum of three days and a maximum of two months: travel may originate and terminate at any point within South Africa which is served by the airline. Travel is not permitted more than once in the same direction over any given sector. There is also a reduction of approximately 30 per cent on some standby fares. South African Airways has various other discount domestic fares including Apex, Slumber, Supersaver and Saver fares.
SEA: Starlight Cruises offers links between major ports.
RAIL: The principal intercity services are as follows: the Blue Train (website: www.bluetrain.co.za) is a luxury express offering routes between Pretoria, Victoria Falls, Hoedspruit, Port Elizabeth and Cape Town; the Trans-Oranje between Cape Town and Durban via Kimberley and Bloemfontein (weekly); and the Trans-Natal Express between Durban and Johannesburg (daily). Rovos Rail offers luxury steam safaris to the eastern Transvaal. The Transnet Museum also offers various steam safaris around South Africa and Zimbabwe, and the Trans-Karoo Express travels between Cape Town, Johannesburg and Pretoria (four times a week). All long-distance trains are equipped with sleeping compartments, included in fares, and most have restaurant cars. Reservations are recommended for principal trains and all overnight journeys. There are frequent local trains in the Cape Town and Pretoria/Johannesburg urban areas. All trains have first- and second-class accommodation. Children under two years of age travel free. Children aged two to 11 years pay half fare.
ROAD: There is a well-maintained network of roads and motorways in populous regions. Around a third of roads are paved (with all major roads tarred to a high standard). Traffic drives on the left. In non-residential areas, speed limits are 120kph (75mph). Fines for speeding are very heavy. It is illegal to carry petrol other than in built-in petrol tanks. Petrol stations are usually open all week 0700-1900. Some are open 24 hours. Petrol must be paid for in cash. Bus/coach: Various operators, such as Greyhound, Intercape and Translux, run intercity express links using modern air-conditioned coaches. On many of the intercity routes, passengers may break their journey at any scheduled stop en route by prior arrangement at time of booking and continue on a subsequent coach at no extra cost other than for additional accommodation. Taxi: Available throughout the country, at all towns, hotels and airports, with rates for distance and time. For long-distance travel, a quotation should be sought. Car hire: Self-drive and chauffeur-driven cars are available at most airports and in major city centres. Avis, Imperial and Budget are represented nationwide. Documentation: An International Driving Permit is required. The minimum age is 23 (or 21 on presentation of an American Express/Diners card). Foreign licences in English are valid for up to six months; otherwise, British visitors who are planning to drive in South Africa should check with the AA or RAC prior to departure that they have all the correct documentation.
URBAN: There are bus and suburban rail networks in all the main towns. Fares in Cape Town and Johannesburg are zonal, with payment in cash or with ten-ride pre-purchase ‘clipcards’ from kiosks. In Pretoria, there are various pre-purchase ticket systems, including a cheap pass for off-peak travel only. In Durban, conventional buses face stiff competition from minibuses and combi-taxis (both legal and illegal), which are also found in other South African towns. These, although cheap and very fast, should be used with care. For ordinary taxis, fares within the city areas are more expensive than long distances. Taxis do not cruise and must be called from a rank. Taxi drivers expect a ten per cent tip.
TRAVEL TIMES: The following chart gives approximate travel times (in hours and minutes) from Cape Town to other major cities/towns in South Africa.
| Air | Road | Rail | | Johannesburg | 2.00 | 15.00 | 24.00 | | Durban | 2.00 | 18.00 | 38.00 | | Pretoria | 2.00 | 16.00 | 26.00 | | Port Elizabeth | 1.00 | 7.00 | - | | Bloemfontein | 1.30 | 10.00 | 20.00 |
Accommodation
South Africa offers a wide range of accommodation from luxury 5-star hotels to thatched huts (rondavels) in game reserves. ‘Time-sharing condominiums’ are developing in popular resorts. Comprehensive accommodation guides giving details of facilities, including provision for the handicapped, are available at all SATOUR offices and from regional tourist offices. Information covers hotels, motels, farm holidays, game park rest camps, caravan and campsites and supplementary accommodation such as beach cottages, holiday flats and bungalows. Rates should always be confirmed at time of booking. It is forbidden by law to levy service charges, although phone calls may be charged for.
HOTELS: All hotels are registered with the South African Tourism Board, which controls standards. For further information, contact SATOUR (see Contact Addresses section). 800 hotels are members of the Federated Hospitality Association of South Africa (FEDHASA), Second floor, NBS Building, 310 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg (tel: (11) 886 2394; fax: (11) 789 4811; e-mail: fedhasa@fedhasa.co.za; website: www.fedhasa.co.za). FEDHASA has regional offices throughout the country. Grading: The National Grading and Classification Scheme was introduced in 1994. Participation is voluntary. Hotels are graded 1 to 5 stars according to the range of facilities on offer plus an optional classification band grading the level of services and hospitality. The classification band is colour-coded as follows: Burgundy: Acceptable standard of services and hospitality in addition to the required facilities. Silver: Superior services, hospitality, quality and ambience.
Each hotel taking part in the scheme will display a plaque indicating the star-rating and the classification band.
GUEST-HOUSES/BED & BREAKFAST: The accreditation programme now applies to guest houses and bed and breakfast establishments. There are very few towns that do not offer this type of accommodation. Advance bookings during the summer season (October-April) are becoming essential, especially in the Western Cape region.
SELF-CATERING: Holiday flats, resorts and health spas are available along main routes. Grading: The Accreditation and Classification Programme for self-catering accommodation is part of the National Grading and Classification Scheme which was introduced in 1994. Self-catering accommodation is graded 1 to 5 stars according to the facilities available and the level of services and hospitality. The classification band is split into three levels.
CAMPING/CARAVANNING: There are over 800 camp and caravan sites in the country; camping is not allowed outside of them. Caravan parks are to be found along all the tourist routes in South Africa, particularly at places favoured for recreation and sightseeing. The standard is usually high. Many caravan parks have campsites. A number of companies can arrange motor camper rentals, with a range of fully-equipped vehicles. Full details can be obtained from SATOUR. Grading: Camp and caravan sites are classed as self-catering accommodation (see above).
GAME RESERVES: Game reserve rest camps are protected enclosures within the confines of the park. Accommodation is usually in thatched huts known as rondavels, or in small cottages. Some camps have air-conditioned accommodation. Most rondavels and cottages are self contained, with private baths and showers, and sometimes kitchens. Some camps have luxury air-conditioned accommodation. Conservation Corporation Africa (CCA) (website: www.ccafrica.com) was founded in 1990 to develop sustainable wildlife reserves, achieved through low-density, high-quality tourism. Its lodges are bywords for luxury and elegance, but equally important is CCA’s work to promote biodiversity, invest in the local rural economies and restore land.
FARM HOLIDAYS: There is a wide range of guest farms open to tourists offering stays in various ecological regions. Opportunities exist for adventure activities such as horseriding, mountain-biking and fishing as well as agricultural activities like bee-keeping and cattle-ranching. Full details can be obtained from SATOUR; see Contact Addresses section.
Introduction
South Africa is a stunning country of magnificent landscape, from desert dunes to rolling farmlands, savannah bush, subtropical hardwood forests and superb white sand coast. It has game viewing to equal the best in Africa from Kruger in Mpumalanga to the Zululand area of Kwazulu-Natal and a host of small parks and reserves in the Northern Provinces and Eastern Capes. Where else can you find penguins and elephants living in the same country? There are over 1000 bird species in the country, and the Western Cape alone has one of the richest floral kingdoms in the world, with over 23,000 plant and flower species and spectacular displays that coat the desert in colour. The country also has a fascinating human and cultural history, stretching back to the aboriginal San (Bushmen) and Khoikhoi, through the black African peoples to the latest arrivals, the Afrikaans and British. It has never been an easy history – tribal wars raged long before the punishing and bitter conflicts between black and white, from the Zulu Wars to the Boer War and the segregation of apartheid society. Archbishop Desmond Tutu named the newly integrated South Africa ‘the rainbow nation’. It is a fitting name for a country with 11 official languages and people of all colours, race and creed, living in a vividly coloured and sculpted landscape.
The Western Cape
This area of outstanding natural and floral beauty, in the southwestern corner of the country, stretches from the remote rocky outcrops beyond Lambert’s Bay in the west to the mountains of the southern peninsula. The first area to be colonised by Europeans, it is particularly famous for its wines.
CAPE TOWN: South Africa’s legislative capital is situated at the foot of Table Mountain, the famous flat-topped mountain with views out across the peninsula to the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. It is possible to walk up, but for the less intrepid, there is an excellent cablecar. The main hub of the city centre is the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, the beautifully restored old Victorian harbour which offers free entertainment, a wide variety of shops, museums, including the excellent Aquarium, taverns and restaurants. Boat trips leave from here for harbour tours or the notorious Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela and many other nationalist leaders were imprisoned. The relics of early colonial government are centred on Government Avenue, with many fine old buildings and museums, including the Parliament Buildings; Groote Kerk (mother church of the Dutch Reformed faith); the Cultural History Museum; National Museum; National Gallery; Bertram House and Company’s Garden, planted in 1652 to provide food for passing sailors. Nearby sights of interest include Bo-Kaap (the home of the Islamic Cape Malay people, confusingly of mainly Indonesian origin); the Castle of Good Hope in Darling Street, built in 1666; the Old Townhouse on Greenmarket Square, housing a permanent collection of 17th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings; and the early 18th-century Koopmans de Wet House. Those interested in learning more about black and ‘Cape coloured’ culture should visit the District Six Museum, Buitenkant Street, and take one of the many excellent guided tours of the outlying townships of Crossroads, Langa and Khayelitsha. It is probably not safe for tourists to venture into these areas on their own.
Cape Town also has excellent sporting and shopping facilities. The Baxter Theatre and Artscape Theatre Complex offer a mix of local and international fare. Nightlife is concentrated in the V&A Waterfront, Sea Point, and parts of the central business district, notably around Long Street. Further out, the Cape-Dutch homestead of Spier and Ratanga Junction theme park both offer a variety of entertainment from classical to jazz concerts.
EXCURSIONS: South of Cape Town, a long peninsula stretches south, lined by fishing villages and holiday resorts, including Llandudno, Hout Bay, Kommetjie, Fish Hoek, Muizenberg and Simonstown, a delightful Victorian town with a couple of interesting museums and the only colony of penguins to live on the African mainland. Inland, the magnificent Cape-Dutch farm, Groot Constantia, was one of the first wine farms in the Cape, while the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, created by Cecil Rhodes in 1895 on the lower slopes of Table Mountain, is one of the finest botanical gardens in the world. In the summer there are open-air concerts. Nearby Chapman’s Peak has spectacular views, but the scenic drive from Hout Bay is currently closed due to landfalls, and you need to walk the last section to the summit.
About an hour’s drive from Cape Town, the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve covers the southern tip of the Cape peninsula, with a profusion of flowers, birds and animals, culminating in Cape Point, where the Indian Ocean meets the Atlantic.
THE WINELANDS: North of Cape Town, the winelands are a stunning region of vineyards, old Cape-Dutch villages and mansions. Many of the vineyards have excellent restaurants; most offer tastings and some provide bed and breakfast. Stellenbosch, a major centre of wine production, is also one of South Africa’s oldest villages with a great many attractive buildings, including the excellent Village Museum. The local tourist office provides details for a historic walking tour. Tiny Franschhoek originally hosted refugee Huguenots from France, who brought their wine-growing skills to South Africa. It now has an excellent Huguenot Museum. Paarl is home to several small museums and the KWV Wine Cellars. In the Breede Valley area, the charming little towns of Tulbagh, Worcester, Wellington and Ceres all have fine old buildings, interesting small museums, beautiful scenery, vineyards and fruit orchards.
THE WEST COAST: The fertility of the southern Cape region gradually gives way to the rugged and beautiful West Coast, which has abundant shellfish, and numerous fishing villages, including Lambert’s Bay, a good surfing spot. Inland, the sculpted sandstone Cederberg mountains separate the west coast from the arid Great Karoo Desert, which bursts into a mass of flower every October-November.
The South Coast and Garden Route
East from Cape Town, the coastal area, known as the Overberg, includes attractive resort towns such as Somerset West and Hermanus, probably the best place in South Africa for whale watching; Cape Agulhas, the less than inspirational cape which is actually the southerly tip of Africa; the wreck-strewn cliffs around Arniston; and Elim, a 19-century Mission village whose principal profession is still growing and drying flowers. Swellendam, 215km (130 miles) from Cape Town, is a charming Cape-Dutch village, rich in fine old buildings, several of which make up the excellent Drostdy Museum.
From here onwards, the south coast becomes known as The Garden Route, because of the wealth of forests that used to line the coast. There are a couple of areas of hardwood forest left, but even with so much development this is a wonderful area for holidays, with excellent beaches, good swimming and plenty of activities on offer.
Mossel Bay was one of the first harbours visited by European sailors and the town now has an excellent museum charting the maritime history of the coast. Wilderness is a pretty little resort sandwiched between the dunes and the reedy lakes of the Wilderness Natural Reserve, an excellent place for birding and canoeing. Knysna is a comfortable tourist town situated between the lush inland Knysna forests and the horseshoe-shaped Knysna Lagoon. It has several interesting small museums and a nearby game farm. South Africa’s trendiest resort, Plettenberg Bay, has magnificent beaches, the Robberg Nature Reserve, where you can usually see seals and dolphins and Monkeyland, a sanctuary dedicated to primates of all sorts.
An equally beautiful, but startlingly different route, called the ‘inland route’, runs parallel to the coast, on the far side of the mountains. This leaves Cape Town via the Winelands, continuing through market gardening towns, such as Ashton, Robertson and Montagu, well-known for wine and olives, into the Little Karoo, the scrubby extension of the Great Karoo Desert. Most people choose a mix of the two routes: crossing the Outeniqua and Swartberg Mountains over a series of dramatically beautiful switchback passes, of which the most beautiful is undoubtedly the Swartberg Pass to Prince Alfred; and the more common Outeniqua Pass from George to Oudtshoorn, famous for its ostrich farms as well as the Kango Caves.
The Eastern Cape
The Eastern Cape is South Africa’s hidden gem, much of it little known and underexplored by tourists, but with an extraordinary variety of cultural history and scenic beauty, ranging from the vast, dry Great Karoo to the fertile agricultural lands of the Little Karoo and the ‘Settler Country’ around Grahamstown, and above all, the magnificent cliffs and coves of the Wild Coast. The Eastern Cape is also home to two of the country’s major seaports, East London and Port Elizabeth, and several excellent small game reserves, including Addo Elephant Park. The area around East London is the homeland of the Xhosa people, many of whom, including Nelson Mandela, have played a crucial role in recent South African history.
PORT ELIZABETH: ‘PE’, as the city is known locally, is unremarkable, being dominated by industry and freeways, and subject to strong winds for most of the year. The City Hall and Market Square are worth a visit, with a replica of the Dias Cross, originally placed by the Portuguese navigator Bartholomew Dias. There are several other interesting buildings, including a memorial to Prester John, the Campanile Clock Tower and the Donkin Lighthouse, while the old part of town, above the city centre, has some attractive Victorian houses. The Museum, Oceanarium, Snake Park and Tropical House are also on the seafront at Humewood. The King George IV Art Gallery & Fine Arts Hall has an excellent collection of 19th- and 20th-century art and Castle Hill Museum, in the city’s oldest house, has a fine collection of Cape furniture. Settler’s Park Nature Reserve at How Avenue abounds with indigenous flora and St George’s Park has open-air exhibitions and craft fairs, as well as theatrical productions. South of the city are good beaches, such as King’s Beach and Humewood Beach. The latter features the Apple Express, one of the few remaining narrow-gauge steam trains, which runs on occasion from Humewood to Thornhill.
WEST OF PORT ELIZABETH: The Eastern Cape portion of the Garden Route (see also Western Cape) notably includes the Tsitsikamma Coastal National Park, the remnant of a once-massive indigenous forest, home to immense native trees such as yellowwoods. Jeffreys Bay is a world-renowned surfer’s paradise. Heading north, miles and miles of sandy beaches run all the way up the coast. The Alexandria State Forest is a reserve that runs along the coast and contains a hiking trail along the beach. East from here is Dias Cross, the location of one of Bartholemew Dias’ stone crosses and a desolate paradise for beach lovers.
Inland, the Karoo is a vast and beautiful upland area with spectacular sunsets, drier, hotter and colder than the coasts. The novelist Olive Schreiner made the area famous and her house at Cradock has been restored. The Mountain Zebra National Park is worth a visit, on the northern slopes of the Bankberg range.
The Addo Elephant National Park, 72km (45 miles) north of Port Elizabeth, was created in 1931 to protect the last of the eastern Cape elephants. Recently massively expanded, it offers an excellent range of game including black rhino, buffalo and antelope and more than 170 bird species. There are also several private reserves nearby including the excellent Shamwari and Kwandwe, both of which have very upmarket accommodation and ‘Big Five’ (elephant, lion, leopard, rhino and buffalo) game viewing.
The town of Graaff-Reinet, situated in the heart of the Karoo Nature Reserve, at the foot of the Sneeuberg Mountains, is one of the finest surviving Cape-Dutch towns in South Africa, with many attractive 18th- and 19th-century buildings, as well as parks and museums. Just 5km (3 miles) outside the town, it is possible for visitors to drive into the Valley of Desolation along a twisting single-track road that eventually climbs into the mountains. From the viewpoints, it is possible to look down over Graaff-Reinet across towering red and ochre outcrops of rock. The nearby town of Nieu Bethesda is worth a visit for the Owl House, a remarkable sculpture garden by eccentric artist Helen Martins, subject of a play by Athol Fugard.
Settler Country
East of Port Elizabeth, Kenton-on-Sea and Port Alfred are pretty little holiday towns, the latter on the mouth of the Kowie River – canoeing trips can be undertaken from Port Alfred to Bathurst, home of The Pig and Whistle, the oldest pub in South Africa (1831).
A short distance inland, Victorian Grahamstown is home to one of South Africa’s best universities and hosts a giant annual arts festival each July. The town has many fine buildings, amongst which the most interesting are the Cathedral of St Michael and St George, situated in the triangular Church Square, the 1820 Settlers Monument (after the first British to settle the area), Fort Selwyn, and rows of shops and houses on Church Square, Artificers’ Square, Hill Street and MacDonald Street. The town also has several excellent museums, including the Albany Museum, History Museum, Natural Sciences Museum and the International Library of African Music. Local development projects offer traditional Xhosa meals.
Fort Hare University, in the nearby town of Alice, was the country’s first black university, founded in 1916. King William’s Town is not only a fine Victorian town, with many beautiful houses and the excellent Kaffrarian Museum, but is the birth and burial place of nationalist leader, Steve Biko.
An hour’s drive from Grahamstown is the village of Hogsback, situated in the striking Amatola Mountains. It is an ideal place to walk in the forest of yellowwood, stinkwood and Cape chestnut trees along trails to magical waterfalls – the most spectacular being the aptly-named Bridal Veil and Madonna and Child.
EAST LONDON AND THE WILD COAST: East London, built on the mouth of the Buffalo River, is not only South Africa’s fourth largest port, but a popular seaside resort with a subtropical climate, fine beaches and some of the best surfing in South Africa. There is excellent swimming at Eastern Beach, Nahoon Beach and Orient Beach. The city is not particularly pretty, but it does have some interesting museums and monuments, notably, the East London Museum (with the world’s only Dodo egg and a stuffed coelacanth); the Gately House Museum, built in 1878; the Anne Bryant Art Gallery, with an interesting collection of contemporary South African art; an excellent Aquarium; fine Botanical Gardens; 19th-century Fort Glamorgan; and the Hood Point Lighthouse. Latimer’s Landing has a wide range of good shops and restaurants.
Heading west, the Wild Coast’s history (as a black ‘homeland’) and lack of roads have left it gloriously undeveloped. This is a spectacularly beautiful area of wild cliffs and hidden coves, many parts of it inaccessible to normal vehicles. The main road runs inland through the Eastern Cape’s uninspiring capital, Umtata, with occasional dirt roads winding down to the water’s edge. Nelson Mandela was born in and has retired to Qunu, 34km (20 miles) west of Umtata on the East London road.
The main tourist town in the area is Port St Johns, the closest thing South Africa has to a hippy hangout. Both here and at various coves and rivermouths along the coast are small, hideaway lodges perfect for those who want to relax or fish, away from the crowds. Just before the Kwazulu-Natal Border, the Wild Coast Sun, with its casino and waterpark, is an abrupt introduction to the more developed coast near Durban.
To the north is the southern end of the Drakensberg Mountains. South Africa’s only ski resort, Tiffendel, is near the small village of Rhodes, where trout fishing, hiking and pony-trekking are all possible.
KwaZulu-Natal
Perhaps the most diverse province in South Africa, KwaZulu-Natal contains approximately a quarter of the South African population and ranges from semi-tropical and tropical coastlands to snow-capped peaks in the Drakensberg. In an otherwise arid country it has the same rainfall as Great Britain.
DURBAN: Growing at an alarming rate, Durban is South Africa’s third-largest city, a mix of cultures including a large Indian community and a new influx of Africans from countries to the north. Because of the almost tropical climate, swimming is possible all year round, although the city’s beaches are becoming increasingly crowded. The central beach area, called the Golden Mile, actually stretches for 6km (4 miles) from the Umgeni River to the Point. Along it are a wide variety of souvenir stalls and family entertainments, from the excellent Seaworld to funfairs, a snake park and mini-golf. This stretch has also increasingly become a target for muggers, and there are safer and quieter beaches north and south.
Colonial Durban has its heart in Francis Farewell Square, surrounded by a number of fine Victorian and Edwardian buildings including the City Hall (which now contains the Natural Science Museum and Durban Art Gallery, featuring a fine collection of black South African art and craft). Not far away is the African Arts Centre, where much local art is for sale. To the north is Central Park. To the west of the centre is the Indian District, characterised by markets, mosques, temples and well-preserved buildings from the turn of the century, including the Juma Musjid Mosque. At the other end of the Madressa Arcade is the Emmanuel Cathedral. To the north is the Victoria Street Market, filled with spices, curios and fresh produce.
To the north, the Botanical Gardens offer cool respite. The other major attractions of Durban lie along the Victoria Embankment and beyond, and include the Yacht Mole, the Ocean Terminal Building (relic of the age of sea travel) and the Sugar Terminal, the nexus of KwaZulu-Natal’s massive sugar industry. Further out west is the suburb of Cato Manor, a fascinating mix of shanties and temples including the Shree Alayam Second River Hindu Temple, which has a firewalking festival in autumn.
Scattered around the town and suburbs are several other interesting small museums, such as the Killie Campbell Collection, an excellent African cultural collection in an old Cape-Dutch mansion, the little Kwamuhle Museum of local 20th-century history, the Natal Maritime Museum and the Old Court House.
EXCURSIONS: Inland: Just north of Durban, the Valley of a Thousand Hills is a popular excursion for locals, with plenty of bijou shops and tearooms; the Assagay Safari Park and Phezulu are basic, child-friendly places offering a crocodile farm, snake park, children’s zoo and Zulu dancing. The Paradise Valley Nature Reserve is a wonderful place to walk off the beaten track.
The South Coast: South of Durban, a series of beach resorts including Amanzimtoti, Scottsburgh, Port Shepstone and Margate have run together to create a ribbon of fun, sea and sand aimed at the family market, with plenty of timeshares, self-catering apartments and fast food. Things to do include a crocodile farm, the Banana Express railway and the Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve, a scenic collection of forests and steep gorges leading down to the beach, covered in dense forest. The offshore Aliwal Shoal and Protea Banks are some of the best dive sites in South Africa.
The North Coast: North of Durban is a similar string of slightly more upmarket resorts. Umhlanga Rocks is the home of the Natal Sharks Board, which offers audiovisual presentations and shark dissections to those with a taste for gore. Ballito offers a wide range of water and land sports, while just to the north, 19th-century Zulu king, Shaka, used to throw his enemies off the cliff at Shaka’s Rock. Other small towns in the area include Salt Rock, which has a small crocodile farm, Crocodile Creek, the sugar-cane community of Tongaat, and Shaka’s capital, Stanger, home to an interesting small museum.
THE MIDLANDS AND DRAKENSBERG: Between Natal’s coast and the mountains, there is an area of undulating wooded hills and grassy plains with scattered villages and lush farmland, known as the Natal Midlands. There are a number of small game reserves with a huge variety of animal and bird life in the Midlands and the foothills of the Drakensberg, while local rivers offer excellent fishing. Pietermaritzburg, joint state capital (with Ulundi) is the largest city in the area. Although founded by the Voortrekkers, the town’s architectural heritage is mostly Victorian, best seen in the area around Church Street. There are several excellent museums including the Natal Museum, Macrorie House Museum, Tatham Art Gallery and Voortrekker Museum. The city is particularly attractive in September, when the azaleas are in bloom. The Botanic Gardens enable visitors to look at a range of indigenous flora. Within easy reach of Pietermaritzburg are the Howick Falls, the Karkloof Falls and the Albert Falls Public Resort and Nature Reserve.
The Drakensberg is South Africa’s largest mountain range and the official southern end of the Great Rift Valley, which slices north across Africa for 6000km (3728 miles). Its name, which means ‘Dragon Mountains’ in Afrikaans, stems from the jagged backbone of saw-toothed peaks. It is a refreshing place with cold mountain streams shaded by ferns and ancient yellowwood trees. The mountains are capped with snow in winter. The area provides good walking, climbing and riding while the peaks are the realm of eagles and bearded vultures. Popular climbs include Champagne Castle, Cathkin Peak and Cathedral Peak.
In the nearby caves are good examples of the rock art of the Bushmen who, until a century ago, inhabited the area. The Main Caves, in the Giant’s Castle Game Reserve, boast more than 500 rock paintings in a single shelter. The reserve, which flanks the border with Lesotho, is dominated by a massive basalt wall incorporating the peaks of Giant’s Castle (3314m/10,873ft) and Injasuti (3459m/11,349ft) and is home to eland, other antelope and a variety of birds, including Cape vulture, jackal buzzard, black eagle and lammergeier.
Just to the north, the Royal Natal National Park is one of Natal’s most stunning reserves. Its dramatic scenery includes the Amphitheatre, an 8km-long (5 mile) crescent-shaped curve in the main basalt wall. It is flanked by two impressive peaks, the Sentinel (3165m/10,384ft) and the Eastern Buttress (3047m/9997ft). Even higher is Mont-aux-Sources at 3284m (10,775ft). It is the source of the Tugela River which plummets 2000m (6562ft) over the edge of the plateau. Hikers should enjoy following the spectacular Tugela Gorge.
THE BATTLEFIELDS: The northern part of KwaZulu-Natal is mainly rolling grassland, spiked by occasional rocky kopjies (hills) which became the bloody frontline in a whole series of wars between the Zulus, Afrikaans and British (1830–1902).
Ladysmith was the site of a devastating siege during the Anglo-Boer War. The Town Hall still shows the scars, while the old Market Hall next door is an excellent Siege Museum. Behind it, the Cultural Centre is dedicated to local cultures and heroes including former World Boxing Champion, Sugarboy Malinga, and the band, Ladysmith Black Mambazo.
There is another excellent museum, the Talana Museum, in Dundee, site of the first battle of the Boer War. This is also the best place from which to visit Isandlwana, Fugitive’s Drift and Rorkes Drift, where a devastating series of battles between the British and Zulus in January 1879 led to the desperate defence of Rorke’s Drift mission station by a garrison of 139. Before the battle began, 35 were already wounded. It resulted in the most Victoria Crosses in a single engagement in the history of British warfare and was filmed as Zulu, starring Michael Caine. The mission is now an interpretive and arts centre. Also nearby is the battlefield of Blood River, scene of a famous victory by the Afrikaaners over the Zulus in 1838.
Further east, the little Afrikaaner town of Vryheid (Freedom) was founded in 1884. Today, it is still a pretty little town, with three small museums, the Lukas Meijer House, the Old Carnegie Library and the Nieuwe Republiek Museum. Three major battles of the Anglo-Zulu War were fought nearby.
Just to the south, little-known, but game-rich, Itala Game Reserve (29,653 ha/73,243 acres) has spectacular golden grasslands, rocky kopjes and wooded valleys and is home to all major species except lion.
ZULULAND: In the mid-19th century, the Tugela River formed the boundary between British Natal and Zululand. Eshowe (‘the sound of wind in the trees’), now a pretty little farming town, has a Zulu royal pedigree. Fort Nongqayi (1883) is now the Zululand Historical Museum, while the Vukani Museum has the world’s largest collection of traditional Zulu arts and crafts. The 200 ha (494 acres) Dhlinza Forest is a small but beautiful patch of indigenous hardwood forest.
In the nearby hills are several Zulu cultural villages, including Shakaland, Pobane, KwaBhekithunga, Stewart’s Farm and Simunye, all providing food and accommodation, a tour of a village, discussion of lifestyle and medicine and dance displays. North of the little market town of Melmoth, Mgungundlovu (‘the place of the great elephant’) was the capital of King Dingane (c.1795–1843). The city was destroyed by the Afrikaans, but has now been partially rebuilt as a museum. Ulundi, joint capital of KwaZulu-Natal and still home of the Zulu monarchy, has relatively little for the tourist, but the site of the former royal capital, Ondini, is now the fascinating KwaZulu Cultural Museum.
Much of the northerly part of KwaZulu-Natal is made up of a series of interlinked public and private game reserves that together form one of Africa’s finest concentrations of wildlife. In addition, it has a startlingly beautiful coast, with silver sand beaches (shared with turtles), vast sand dunes and off-shore coral reefs. The 38,682 ha (95,545 acres) Greater St Lucia Wetland Reserve is a loose collection of wilderness areas around Lake St Lucia, including Mapelane, the St Lucia Game Reserve, False Bay Park, Sodwana Bay National Park, Cape Vidal State Forest, Sodwana State Forest, St Lucia Marine Reserve (stretching 5km/3 miles out to sea), the Maputaland Marine Reserve, and the Mkuzi Game Reserve. It covers five distinct ecosystems varying from dry thorn scrub to tropical forest and bordered by giant dunes, beaches and tropical reefs, has ‘Big Five’ game viewing, and is the only place in the world where hippos, crocodiles and sharks share the same lagoon. It also has superb birding and diving and, outside the National Park, excellent fishing.
The 96,000 ha (237,120 hectares) Hluhluwe-Umfolozi National Park offers a broad range of habitats, from rocky hillside to open savannah grass and thick woodland, supporting some 86 species of mammal and around 425 recorded bird species. This is the Eden of almost all white rhinos in the world, thanks to a carefully controlled breeding programme that has restocked much of the rest of Africa. Between here and St Lucia is the privately owned 17,000 ha (41,990 hectares) Phinda Resource Reserve. In the far north, near the Mozambique border, Lake Sibaya is the largest natural freshwater lake in southern Africa (77 sq km/30 sq miles), offering good bird watching, fishing and hiking. Beyond this, are the Ndumo and Tembe Game Reserves, with excellent wildlife, including a large rhino population and a variety of birds, and the magnificent coastal and marine Kosi Bay Nature Reserve; access is by four-wheel-drive only.
Free State
The central Free State metamorphoses from grassland interspersed with small granite outcrops in the west to magnificent sandstone hills in the east.
The capital of this province is Bloemfontein, an imposing but unattractive town which has some surprisingly good museums, including the National Museum, the old Fourth Raadsaal (parliament) of the old Free State Republic, the National Afrikaans Literary Museum, and the Oliewenhuis Art Gallery. By far the most interesting is the National Women’s Memorial and War Museum, telling the chilling story of the Boer War and the British concentration camps (where 26,370 women and children died) from the Afrikaans perspective.
Outside Bloemfontein, the southern Free State is home to the Gariep Dam, a massive 374 sq km (144 sq miles) reservoir, built for irrigation and hydroelectric power. However, the State’s most interesting scenery lies in the eastern highlands, on the Lesotho border. From Bloemfontein, hills rise steadily as one heads past Thaba’nchu, the old seat of the Basotho kings, to Ladybrand, the main route into Lesotho. North from here are Ficksburg, which has an annual cherry festival in spring and the new-age settlement of Rustler’s Valley, which hosts an annual music festival in autumn. Further to the northeast is the Golden Gate National Park, verging on the KwaZulu-Natal Drakensberg, characterised by massive weathered sandstone cliffs tinted a multitude of shades of red, yellow and orange.
Mpumalanga
Mpumalanga (the ‘land of the rising sun’) covers the highveld plains and mountains from Gauteng to the borders with Swaziland and Mozambique. This is one of the key tourist destinations in South Africa, home, with the Northern Province, to the world-famous Kruger National Park, a massive reserve the size of Wales and among the best places in Africa to see the ‘Big Five’ as well as thousands of other species. The park features a wide range of accommodation from camping (in fenced enclosures to keep lions out) to self-catering huts and cottages. Surrounding the park, in a series of linked game reserves called Sabie Sand, Manyeleti, Klaserie, Timbavati and the Umbabat, there are numerous private concessions, less crowded but considerably more expensive than the National Parks camps. These small, luxury camps provide vehicles and guides, and offer facilities such as walks, night drives and off-road game-spotting not allowed within the park proper. As animals wander freely throughout the area, the game viewing is as good as in the main park.
THE ESCARPMENT: The other main area of interest to tourists is the escarpment just to the west of the Kruger boundary. This marks the edge of the African continental plateau with a series of dramatic mountains and plunging cliffs. The road along the rim of the escarpment provides spectacular views of the landscape below, including The Pinnacle, a massive, free-standing granite column; God’s Window, a viewing point over the Lowveld 1000m (3300ft) below; Lisbon Falls and Berlin Falls. It then turns to run along the rim of the Blyde Canyon (26km/16 miles long and 350–800m/1050-2400ft deep), passing Bourke’s Luck Potholes, a series of strange rock formations created by the swirling action of pebble-laden flood water. There is a spectacular five-day hiking trail along the canyon called the Blyderivierspoort Hiking Trail beginning at God’s Window.
The surrounding area has several attractive market towns, such as Sabie, situated against the backdrop of Mauchsberg and Mount Anderson, with an abundance of waterfalls and wild flowers; Graskop, a forestry village perched on a spur of the Drakensberg escarpment; and Pilgrim’s Rest, a gold-rush town with many historic buildings. Nearby, the Mount Sheba Nature Reserve embraces 1500 ha (3705 acres) of ravines and waterfalls. Nelspruit, the provincial capital, features the Lowveld National Botanical Gardens on the banks of the Crocodile River, specialising in Cycads, as well as other semi-tropical Lowveld vegetation.
NORTHERN PROVINCE: This province is bordered by Botswana and Zimbabwe to the North and Mozambique to the east, and contains a large section of the Kruger National Park (see the Mpumalanga section). This northern section is generally drier and has far fewer tourists than the southern section but still has excellent game viewing. Access is via the copper-mining town of Phalaborwa, which has some interesting prehistoric sites, or Hoedspruit, home of the Moholoholo Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre and Cheetah Project. Just west of the park, the Letaba area is a lush green farming district with excellent walking, riding and bird-watching amongst the tea plantations and Magoeboeskloof Mountains. To the north of Letaba, near the Zimbabwe border, are Venda and Gazankulu, largely rural peasant communities with a reputation for arts and crafts. The mystical South African artist Jackson Hlungwane, who has pieces of his remarkable sculpture in South African and European galleries, is based here. This is also the home of the Rain Queen, said to have been Rider Haggard’s inspiration for She, and the Modjadji Forest, the world’s largest collection of cycads (50-million-year-old palms).
In the west, the Waterberg mountains and the Soutpansberg provide excellent opportunities for hiking, riding and nature watching, and there are several private game ranches in the area.
In the far south, near the Gauteng border, Warmbaths unsurprisingly contains warm mineral springs. In the centre of the province are Pietersburg, the provincial capital, notable for the Bakone Malapa Museum, and Potgietersrus, an attractive old Afrikaaner town, with a rare breeds breeding centre.
Gauteng
The economic hub of South Africa, Gauteng means ‘place of gold’ in Sotho. Built on the gold reefs, it is heavily urban, containing the cities of Johannesburg, Pretoria and a scattering of satellite towns, many of them heavily industrial.
JOHANNESBURG AND SOWETO: The discovery of gold near Johannesburg in 1886 turned a small shanty town into the bustling modern city which is today the centre of the world’s gold-mining industry and the commercial nucleus of South Africa. The city is currently undergoing a fundamental transformation as planners in the post-apartheid era struggle to integrate wealthy ‘white’ areas to the north, a decaying inner city, and the poverty-stricken ‘black’ townships to the south. The city is, as well as being a dangerous place to live and stroll about, the cultural centre of South Africa, with a post-apartheid influx of traders from the north enhancing its cosmopolitan character.
The Central Business District (CBD) is characterised by a stark contrast of skyscrapers and bustling street markets; most businesses catering to affluent clients have moved out to the northern suburbs. A spectacular view of the city is available from the Observatory on the 50th floor of the Carlton Centre. To the west, of some historical interest, is the Rand Club, haunt of mining magnates past and present. Also west of the centre, Newtown has been the focus of an urban renewal project which includes the excellent Museum Africa, several excellent restaurants, the Market Theatre, a famous centre of alternative theatre during the apartheid era and after; and the South African Breweries’ Centenary Centre. More mainstream theatre, music and dance can be seen at the Civic Theatre in Braamfontein, also the location of the Gertrude Posel Gallery, one of many small, university-run museums, housing a collection of traditional African art.
Just outside the centre is Hillbrow home to, amongst others, large communities of immigrants from the rest of Africa; a landmark is the massive Ponti building, dubbed ‘petit Kinshasa’ by locals. To the north of the CBD lies Yeoville, more bohemian and considerably safer. The centre of Yeoville life is Rockey Street, lined with cafes and bars where one can while away the days in relative peace.
The north of Johannesburg consists of affluent leafy suburbs. Directly north of the city centre, Parktown was the home of the so-called ‘Randlords’, the 19th-century Gold Rush millionaires, whose houses are still an imposing sight. Nearby is a series of wonderful open spaces containing notable landmarks, such as the Johannesburg Zoo, Zoo Lake (across the road) and the South African National Museum of Military History. North of this are Rosebank, teeming with upmarket bars, restaurants and shops; and Sandton, probably the wealthiest part of Johannesburg and to all intents and purposes, now the city centre.
Excursions: To the south is the city’s only amusement park, Gold Reef City, built on the site of a gold mine, with underground tours as part of the attraction.
Soweto, the massive black ‘township’ to the south, is home to some 4.5 million of the province’s poorest people, and also to many shebeens (informal bars) and thousands of churches representing hundreds of mainline and independent African denominations. The safest way to visit Soweto is as part of an organised tour. Tourists are welcome and there is plenty to see. As well as shebeens and music venues, tours include visits to nationalist landmarks such as Freedom Square, used for rallies, the Hector Peterson memorial, dedicated to the first child to die in the uprisings, and Nelson and Winnie Mandela’s home, now a small museum.
Further afield, Heidelberg is a small town with an interesting Transport Museum. North of Sandton, are the Johannesburg Lion Park, Snake Park, Rhino and Lion Nature Reserve and Lesedi Cultural Village. Sterkfontein, in the Magaliesberg mountains, is home to the Wonder Caves, one of the world’s most important prehistoric sites; 2.5 million-year-old Australopithecus africanus was first discovered here.
Pretoria
Named after the Voortrekker leader Andries Pretorius, Pretoria is the administrative capital of South Africa, known as the ‘Jacaranda City’ because of the flowering trees lining its streets in October and November. Church Square is the centre of the city, and a space of historical importance, while Church Street and its neighbours are lined by some fine 19th-century buildings including Paul Kruger’s House, the Groote Kerk, Melrose House, the old Raadsaal (parliament) of the Boer republic of Transvaal, and the State Theatre, which features a programme of fairly mainstream dance, music and drama. There are also several excellent small museums in the city including the Pretoria Art Museum, the studios of local artists’ Coert Steynberg and Anton von Wouw, now both museums, the Museum of Science and Technology and the bizarre but fascinating Correctional Services Museum.
The Union Buildings, overlooking the suburb of Arcadia, are one of the pinnacles of British Imperial architecture, designed by Sir Herbert Baker. They are still the administrative seat of the national government and are famous as the site of Nelson Mandela’s 1994 inauguration as President. A little further out, the Voortrekker Monument is an imposing granite tower built to commemorate the Boer victory over the Zulus at Blood River. Not politically correct these days, it is still a solemn and moving monument, and the little museum beside it is fascinating. Pretoria Zoo is definitely worth a visit and has a cable car for a bird’s eye view of the big cats.
Excursions: Just out of town, within easy day-trip distance, are several exceptional sights, including the De Wildt Cheetah Farm; Cullinan Diamond Mine (book ahead if you want to do the tour); Pioneer Museum and Willem Prinsloo Agricultural Museum (both ‘living’ museums with costume-clad characters and displays of farming activities); and two fine old houses, the homes of former president, Jan Smuts, and randlord Sammy Marks.
NORTH-WEST PROVINCE: This province’s most famous feature is Sun City, gamblers’ mecca and host to major golf tournaments and star-studded concerts. Its most spectacular hotel, The Lost City, is an H Rider Haggard-like fantasy. Adjacent, the Pilansberg Game Reserve covers around 137,000 ha (33,839 hectares). Several farms and an extinct volcanic crater were included in one of the largest rehabilitation exercises ever carried out. This is now an excellent ‘Big Five’ reserve and the third-largest game park in South Africa. In the far north of the province, on the Botswana border is the excellent, little known Madikwe National Park, which offers excellent walking safaris.
South from Sun City are Rustenberg; the Rustenburg Nature Reserve, in the Magaliesberg, which features antelope and other game, as well as some rare birds of prey such as the black eagle and Cape vulture; and two fairly large and very dull towns, Klerksdorp and Potchefstroom, the latter home to one of the oldest Afrikaaner universities in South Africa.
The Northern Cape
This vast and barren wilderness stretches from the west coast north to the Namibian and Botswana borders and east to the Free State and North-West provinces. The southwest features spectacular carpets of wild flowers in early spring, while the south is part of the Great Karoo and the north intrudes into the Kalahari Desert.
In 1866, a boy found a shiny ‘pebble’ at Hopetown, 128km (80 miles) south of Kimberley, allowing a primitive and sparsely populated settlement to become the diamond capital of the world. Kimberley is not one of the world’s most exciting places, but it does have enough attractions to warrant a stop, chief amongst them the Big Hole, which is the largest man-made excavation in the world, and the Kimberley Mine Museum, with its replicas of 19th-century Kimberley at the height of the gold rush. The De Beers Hall Museum houses a display of cut and uncut diamonds; here can be seen the famous ‘616’ – at 616 carats, the largest uncut diamond in the world – and the ‘Eureka’ diamond, the first to be discovered in South Africa. Other interesting museums include the William Humphreys Art Gallery (fine art), Duggan-Cronin Gallery (photography) and McGregor Museum (a fine old mansion, with Kimberley’s history displayed).
Near Kimberley is the Vaalbos National Park, a small reserve containing the extremely rare Black Rhino, and the Bultfontein Mine, offering guided tours of a working diamond mine. For those with a military bent, Magersfontein lies to the south of Kimberley, site of a catastrophic defeat inflicted on the British by the Boers early in the Boer War.
Northwest of Kimberley, Kuruman was a missionary centre used by Robert Moffat and David Livingstone. It has a gushing spring known as the ‘Eye of God’ and is near the Wonderwerk Cave, an archaeological site of great importance where some of the earliest evidence of the use of fire has been found.
Uppington is a pleasant town on the banks of the Orange River, on the way to the Augrabies National Park, centred on a series of dramatic waterfalls plummeting 56m (184ft) into a narrow ravine carved through the desert. The park is home to many interesting species of desert plants while local animals include baboons, vervet monkeys, rhino and antelope.
Further to the north is the vast Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, which is one of Africa’s first ‘peace parks’, administered jointly by South Africa and Botswana. It is the largest nature conservation area in southern Africa and one of the largest unspoilt ecosystems in the world, supporting fauna and flora in bewildering variety. To the west, Namaqualand is a vast area of seemingly barren semi-desert, harbouring a treasure-house of floral beauty, appearing after sufficient winter rains: daisies, aloes, lilies, perennial herbs and many other flower species. The flowers are best seen from July to September, depending on when the rains fall. Calvinia and Niewoudtville are good locations for flowers.
In the far north, on the Namibian border, is the remote and rocky Richtersveld National Park, accessible only by four-wheel drive, with an extraordinary lunar landscape and wide variety of rare desert plants.
Sport & Activities
Wildlife safaris: South Africa’s wildlife sanctuaries generally fall into three categories: nature parks, private game reserves and national game reserves. Nature parks are noted more for their scenic beauty and hiking trails than for wildlife. Private game reserves offer a personalised game-viewing programme, while national game reserves are generally explored by tourists in their own vehicles. Further information can be found in the Resorts & Excursions section. Besides game viewing from vehicles, walking, horseback, camel and canoeing safaris are becoming increasingly popular. Safaris on foot follow a network of wilderness trails in the (compulsory) company of an armed ranger. A maximum of eight people between the ages of 12 and 60 may participate per trail (which usually lasts for three nights and two days, with accommodation in designated camps). For reservations and further information, contact the South African National Parks Board (tel: (12) 428 9111; fax: (12) 343 0905; e-mail: reservations@parks-sa.co.za; website: www.parks-sa.co.za); or the Wildlife and Environment Society of Southern Africa (tel: (031) 210 3126; fax: (031) 210 9525; e-mail: edwessa@mweb.co.za; website: www.wildlifesociety.org.za).
Walking and hiking: Nature parks offer marked self-guided trails (with sleeping huts en route) or guided off-the-beaten-track trails (with an experienced, armed ranger providing information about ecology, plants and animals). Some operators also offer themed walks with a focus on, for instance, flowers (of which South Africa has nearly 24,000 species). Spectacular flower displays can be seen during August/September in the semi-desert area of Namaqualand.
Wine routes: South Africa’s 13 major wine-producing regions have signposted wine routes, of which the best include the Stellenbosch Wine Route (the country’s first, with all wineries situated within a 12-km/7.5-mile radius of Stellenbosch); the Olifants Wine Route (200km/125 miles long, passing through the Cederberg Mountains, the unspoilt West Coast and Knersvlakte); the Klein Karoo Wine Trust (a 300km/188mile route through the eastern Cape Winelands); the Swartland Wine Route (a 40-minute drive away from Cape Town); the Orange River Wine Trust (comprising the northern wine-making regions, irrigated by the Orange, Vaal and Riet rivers); and the Robertson Valley (two hours’ drive from Cape Town, known particularly for Chardonnay). Regional wine maps and further details are available from the South African Tourism Board (see Contact Addresses section).
Watersports: South Africa has recently gained a reputation for whale watching and shark-cage diving (with great white sharks) on the Cape. Sharks migrate through the Cape’s False Bay from June to August and move into the Durban area (KwaZulu-Natal) from October to January. For whale-watching fans, the Western Cape Tourism Board has established a Cape Whale Route to observe southern right whales, which usually swim very close to the shore. The best time to spot them is from June to September, especially in Walker Bay, where a Whale Festival is held annually during the last week of September. South Africa’s diving infrastructure and facilities are well developed. Reef diving is popular in Sodwana Bay (on the northern coast of KwaZulu-Natal), while wreck diving is widespread around the Cape. The Tsitsikamma Coastal Park offers excellent opportunities for underwater photography. Diving certificates are required.
Fishing: One of the country’s most popular sports, which can be practised along the coast or on the lakes and rivers in the game and nature reserves. One of the world’s richest fishing grounds lies around the Cape of Good Hope, where the Atlantic and Indian Ocean currents meet and large shoals of tuna and swordfish draw increasing numbers of game fishing enthusiasts. The major trout fishing areas are the southern mountain ranges of the Western Cape and the foothills of the Drakensberg Mountains (in KwaZulu-Natal). Fly fishing is best in the mountain streams and along the coastline of the Eastern Cape. One highlight on South Africa’s fishing calendar is the Sardine Run, in June, along the KwaZulu-Natal coast, where hordes of feeding game fish and sharks concentrate.
Golf: South Africa has around 500 courses, often situated in spectacular locations. The best time to play is in the cooler months from May to September. Green fees average £10-20, a caddie costs around £7. Visitors are welcome on weekdays.
Steam trains: South Africa is one of the countries where steam locomotives are still widely used. They range from the luxury Pride of Africa to small engines on narrow gauge railways like the Midmar Steam Railway near Pietermaritzburg. For those looking for a scenic ride, the famous Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe runs along the Garden Route on a day-trip from George and Knysna and the Union Limited crosses the famous Kaaimans River Bridge, one of the most photographed railway bridges in the world.
Adventure sports: A changing range of adventure sports is available, the most famous of which probably remains bungee jumping, for which South Africa has one of the world’s highest drops – the bridge over the Blaukrans River, Western Cape. At 216m (709ft), this jump is more than twice as high as the jump of the bridge linking Zambia and Zimbabwe across the Zambezi River near Victoria Falls.
Spectator sports: South Africans are ardent sports enthusiasts and the success of national teams has been a source of pride and reconciliation for all sections of the community. The South African rugby team are world class, the football team is one of the best in Africa while the cricket team has proved it is the equal of any in the world. Visitors are made welcome at all these fixtures.
Social Profile
Food & Drink: A thriving agricultural sector yields excellent fresh produce, meat, fruit and wines and the long coastline produces very fresh and cheap seafood. Oysters and linefish (examples of which are Kingklip, Kabbeljou, Cob and Red Roman) are particularly good. Typical South African dishes include sosaties (a type of kebab), bobotie (a curried mince dish, of which waterbolmmetjiebredie, made with a local water plant, is particularly good), bredies (meat, tomato and vegetable casseroles), crayfish (or rock lobster) and many other seafood dishes traditional to the Western Cape province. Curries and chutneys are excellent. Biltong (seasoned dried meat) is a savoury speciality. Potjiekos, a casserole cooked for hours in an iron pot, usually outside, is excellent. Stywepap or Poetoepap, a sort of polenta made with white maize, is widely eaten with meat. Although there is a wide choice of self-service restaurants, most have table service.
There are excellent local red and white wines, sherries, brandies and some unusual liqueurs. Beer is also very good. Shebeens offer Umqombothi, a home-brewed sorghum beer. Bars/cocktail lounges have bartender service. ‘Liquor stores’ are open weekdays 0900-1800 and close Sat 1300, although alcohol is now available in supermarkets outside these hours and under certain circumstances on a Sunday. One can generally buy alcohol at shebeens at any time.
Nightlife: Cinemas show a variety of international films. In the large cities, there are regular plays, operas and symphony concerts. The local music scene is thriving, and there is a unique South African ‘township’ jazz style, exponents of which can be seen in all large cities. There are a number of nightclubs and discos open until late. The large hotels usually have live music or cabaret.
Shopping: Upmarket boutiques and supermarkets generally coexist with a mass of street traders selling arts, crafts and anything else profitable. Stores are modern. Special purchases include Swakara hand-crafted gold, coats, gold, diamond and semi-precious stone jewellery, leather, suede and fur goods, ceramics and crafts, of which there are now a bewildering variety including many from the rest of the continent. Local wine, brandy and liqueur are cheap and usually excellent. Shopping hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1700, Sat 0830-1230, although there is an increasing trend to open later and all weekend in major tourist spots.
Special Events: For further details, contact South African Tourism (see Contact Addresses section). The following is a selection of events and festivals celebrated in South Africa during 2003:
Jan Cape Minstrels Street Carnival, Cape Town; Richmond Show, Richmond; Unisa International Music Competition, Pretoria. Feb Alfred Dunhill PGA Golf Tournament, Johannesburg; The Windybrow Arts Festival, Johannesburg; Up The Creek, Cape Town (Music Festival). Mar 20-30 Cape Town Festival (cultural arts festival), Cape Town. Apr The Rand Easter Show, Johannesburg (Trade and Consumer Fair); Bosveld Marathon and Land of Legend Marathon, Louis Trichardt. May Cape Gourmet Festival, Cape Town; Maria Ratchitz Music Festival, Dundee. May-Jun National Hot Air Ballooning Championship, Bethlehem. Jun Apollo Wildfees Film Festival, Victoria West. Jun 26-Jul 5 National Arts Festival, Grahamstown. Jul International Horse Endurance Race, Fauresmith; Oyster Festival, Cycle Race and Road Running Marathon, Knysna. Aug Oppikoppie, Northam (3-Day Rock Music Festival); Lowveld Agricultural Show, Nelspruit; Cape Times Waterfront Wine Festival, Cape Town; Meat Festival, Calvinia; Oppikoppie, Worcester (3-Day Rock Music Festival). Sep Formula One Powerboat Grand Prix, Hartbeespoort Dam; Cape Town International Opera Festival, Cape Town; Heritage Festival, Dundee; Harley Davidson Rally, Colesberg; Arts Alive Festival, Johannesburg. Oct Beer Fest, Hogsback; Rose Festival, Bloemfontein; Lanseria Air Show, Pretoria; Oktoberfest, Dundee; Food and Wine Festival, Stellenbosch. Oct-Nov Creations Craft Show, Dundee. Nov National Choir Festival, Johannesburg; Friedman Bowls Tournament, Dundee; Spier Arts Festival, Stellenbosch. Nov 2-23 Presidents Cup, Fancourt Golf Estate, George. Nov 4-8 Mountain Film Festival, Cape Town. Dec Million Dollar Golf Challenge, Sun City; East London Beachfront Festival; Long Street Carnival, Cape Town; Magersfontein March, Kimberley.
Social Conventions: Handshaking is the usual form of greeting. Normal courtesies should be shown when visiting someone’s home. Casual wear is widely acceptable. Formal social functions often call for a dinner jacket and black tie for men and full-length dresses for women; this will be specified on the invitation. Smoking is prohibited in public buildings and on public transport. Tipping: Normally ten to 15 per cent if service is not included. It is customary to tip porters, waiters, taxi drivers, caddies and room service. By law, hotel rates do not include a service charge.
Business Profile
Economy: The South African economy dominates the southern part of the African continent. Agriculture is strong enough to allow South Africa virtual self-sufficiency in foodstuffs: livestock is reared extensively, and sugar, maize and cereals are produced in large quantities. The foundation of the modern South African economy, however, is mining. The country has considerable deposits of common minerals such as coal, but also of valuable ores which are in high demand but are scarce everywhere else except Russia: chromium, manganese, vanadium and platinum appear in the largest concentrations of anywhere in the world. Its most valuable minerals, however, are gold and diamonds, of which South Africa has long been both the world’s largest producer and exporter. Gold alone accounts for one-third of the country’s entire export income. The only key mineral that South Africa lacks is oil. The manufacturing industry is concentrated in metal-based industries, mainly steel and heavy engineering, with machinery and transport equipment as the principal products. This sector accounts for around 20 per cent of total economic output. Advanced technological and service industries have emerged in recent years: the financial services industry, in particular, has expanded very rapidly and is now a mainstay of the South African economy. The Mandela government initially committed itself to a gradual economic transition through its Reconstruction and Development Programme whose principal aim was to tackle the gross inequalities inherited from the apartheid regime. Progress was tempered, however, as the Government, influenced by the international financial community, also insisted on stringent fiscal restraint: this is felt in many quarters to have hindered development. Inflation is currently eight per cent and annual growth a moderate 2.5 per cent. However, several important economic indicators have remained intractable: the large external debt, the continuing weakness of the Rand on international markets, and – most importantly – the chronically high level of unemployment (officially 27 per cent). Perhaps the greatest long-term problem, especially as regards its impact on the workforce, is the very high level of HIV/AIDS infection in the country.
The Government, in partnership with business and trade unions, has identified tourism as a potential source of new jobs and is directing substantial investment towards that sector. A more controversial policy, which attracts both strong support and opposition, aims to transfer major economic assets – notably the mines – to ‘black empowerment entities’ over a ten-year period. This is designed to redress the massive economic inequalities which continue to afflict South Africa.
South Africa is the dominant member of the local Southern African Customs Union (with Botswana, Lesotho, Namibia and Swaziland); it has also recently joined the Southern African Development Community and the Organisation of African Unity. The USA, the UK, Germany and Japan are South Africa’s main trading partners.
Business: Suits are generally expected to be worn for meetings. Appointments are generally necessary and punctuality is expected. Business cards are widely used. Office hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1630.
Commercial Information: The following organisations can offer advice: South African Chamber of Business (SACOB), 24 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank, Gauteng (tel: (11) 446 3830; fax: (11) 446 3849; e-mail: info@sacob.co.za; website: www.sacob.co.za); or South African Foreign Trade Organisation (SAFTO), PO Box 782099, Sandton 2146 (tel: (11) 887 9141; fax: (11) 786 3861; e-mail: wldtrade@iafrica.com; website: www.foreign-trade.co.za).
Conferences/Conventions: There are roughly 815 conference venues in South Africa. The main conference venues are in Pretoria and Johannesburg though facilities exist in all other major towns, provided mainly by hotels and universities. The Conference and Incentive Promotions Division of SATOUR exists to promote South African venues and to ensure high standards of service and facilities for conference organisers. Contact SATOUR for details (see Contact Addresses section); or Southern African Association for the Conference Industry (SAACI), PO Box 414, Kloof 3640 (tel: (31) 764 6977; fax: (31) 764 6974; e-mail: admin@contactpub.co.za; website: www.saaci.co.za); or Cape Chamber of Commerce and Industry, 19 Louis Gradner Street, Foreshore, PO Box 204, 8000 Cape Town (tel: (21) 402 4300; fax: (21) 402 4300; e-mail: info@capechamber.co.za; website: www.capechamber.co.za).
Climate
South Africa’s climate is generally sunny and pleasant. Winters are usually mild, although snow falls on the mountain ranges of the Cape and Natal and occasionally in lower-lying areas, when a brief cold spell can be expected throughout the country.
Required clothing: Lightweight cottons and linens and rainwear. Warmer clothes are needed for winter.
History and Government
History: Evidence of human and humanoid occupation of South Africa extends back two million years. Stone Age artefacts date from 40,000 years ago, from which time there appears to have been a continuous human culture. This culture has been identified as being related to that of the Khoisan peoples and it lasted until the arrival of the Europeans and the Bantus – who largely absorbed them. The Bantu population of the region arrived as a result of the great southward migrations of Bantu peoples across central and southern Africa, which occurred during the early and middle parts of this millennium. This largely displaced the Bushmen (whose aboriginal culture – still surviving in the Kalahari – is rivalled only in Australia) and the Khoikhoi (‘Hottentots’).
The European discovery of South Africa was roughly contemporaneous – the Portuguese navigator, Bartholomew Dias, discovered the Cape of Good Hope in 1488. In 1652, Dutch settlers, under Commander Jan van Riebeeck, arrived to start a victualling station for the Dutch East India Company. Numbers were swelled by French Huguenots in 1688 and again in 1820, by British settlers, after the British occupation of the Cape. During the 18th and 19th centuries, British and Boer settlers fought a series of wars with the local tribes. Control of the Cape region was also a matter of dispute between the Dutch and the British. The latter finally gained control in 1806 and, dissatisfied with their new rulers, the Boer pioneers, or Voortrekkers, moved northwards to establish the independent republics of the Orange Free State (now Free State) and the Transvaal (now Gauteng), bringing them into contact (and sometimes conflict) with the indigenous Africans – the Sotho and Nguni, in particular.
In 1869, diamonds (and later gold) were discovered in the Transvaal (now Gauteng), attracting huge numbers of fortune hunters, many of them British. President Paul Kruger of the Transvaal (now Gauteng), fearing British domination, invoked strict franchise requirements. Britain’s attempts at intervention resulted in the Anglo-Boer War; the British victory in 1902 eventually resulted in the establishment of the Union of South Africa in 1910. In 1948, the National Party came to power and cemented the policy of apartheid – officially the separate development of all racial groups but effectively the creation of semi-autonomous ‘homelands’ for non-whites and the preservation of white supremacy elsewhere. Four ‘homelands’ (Transkei, Bophuthatswana, Venda and Ciskei) were created, comprising 13 per cent of all land in the country. Although officially styled ‘independent’, the ‘homelands’ were not recognised internationally and were entirely dependent politically and economically on South Africa.
The principal black opposition movement was the African National Congress (ANC). The bulk of the ANC’s organisation and resources, including its military wing, Umkhonto we Sizwe, (‘Spear of the Nation’), worked in exile. The most important black political force outside the ANC has been Chief Buthelezi’s Inkatha movement, with a power base in the Zulu areas in the south-eastern province of KwaZulu-Natal. Successive governments dealt with black opposition with simple and brutal repression. Although, in public at least, the international community reacted strongly against apartheid and maintained economic sanctions against South Africa, there was simultaneously extensive and largely clandestine support from the West for the South African government and its economy. The problems for the South Africans started in the mid- to late 1980s.
In February 1989, the hard-line national party president, PW Botha (known as ‘The Great Crocodile’) gave way to his education minister, FW De Klerk, who had an equally uncompromising reputation but in the event turned out to be relatively flexible and pragmatic. The new government faced constant large-scale agitation by the ANC but also growing pressure from the white-dominated business community, who were starting to realise that the apartheid regime had no long-term viable future. The economy had been in near-crisis for some time and South Africa’s foreign creditors were demanding wholesale changes in domestic policy to safeguard their investments. Over the next 12 months, the De Klerk government removed the ban of the ANC, the South African Communist Party and 30 other anti-apartheid groups, and released the jailed ANC leadership including, after 27 years of imprisonment, its leader, Nelson Mandela. Mandela and his ANC colleagues immediately started negotiating a final political settlement with the white government.
The ANC is not a unitary movement but a coalition of numerous diverse interests; Mandela has described it as ‘an African parliament’. More significant was the deep schism that emerged between the ANC and Inkatha, which frequently exploded into violence and threatened to destabilise the entire process. Despite several close calls, all three main parties (the National Party, ANC and Inkatha) entered into a process, which, by the end of 1993, had laid out a blueprint for a new constitutional future for South Africa. De Klerk kept the majority of the whites on board. The most dangerous white racist organisation, the Afrikaner Weerstandbeweging (AWB, Afrikaner Resistance Movement) fortuitously self-destructed following a bizarre incident involving an attempted invasion of the Bophuthatswana ‘homeland’. Since then, occasional attempts have been made to establish ‘white homelands’ in remote parts of the country but these have invariably fallen apart.
The centrepiece of the political settlement was the first genuinely inclusive national election in South Africa, which was held in February 1994. The ANC won 63 per cent of the poll, the National Party 20 per cent and Inkatha 11 per cent. Nelson Mandela became the country’s president with Thabo Mbeki and De Klerk as deputy presidents. The priorities for the new government, which included representatives of all three parties, were straightforward but daunting – to provide decent standards of housing, education, health and other basic services for the great majority of the population whose needs had been ignored under the apartheid regime.
The practical necessity of not alienating domestic industrialists and international financiers has meant that the government has not been able to move as quickly as it might have wished. Demands to right the injustices of the apartheid era have been, for the most part, successfully dealt with through the creation of a ‘Truth and Reconciliation Commission’, which has uncovered much detail about the murkier aspects of that period. Inkatha continues to hold sway in KwaZulu-Natal, where there have been occasional but increasingly infrequent outbreaks of political violence. The ANC dominates the political scene in the rest of the country. The National Party left the government after the introduction of a new constitution in 1996; it has not prospered in opposition and despite a new leadership and a remodelled image, it is now a marginal force. Despite what appear to be genuine attempts to remodel itself as a multiracial opposition party, it carries too much historical baggage to ever be really effective in the new South Africa.
Before the 1999 elections, Mandela announced that he would not stand for a second term and passed the presidential reins to his heir apparent, Thabo Mbeki, who led the ANC to a comfortable victory at the June poll. Inkatha and the National Party were confined to less than ten per cent of the vote. Mbeki’s administration is struggling with two major domestic problems – a huge violent crime wave and an HIV-AIDS pandemic, which afflicts over ten per cent of the adult population. Mbeki’s persistent refusal to come to terms with the true nature of the HIV virus has drawn massive international criticism as well as being the subject of furious arguments between Mbeki and Mandela. The details and ramifications of this are beyond the scope of this brief history but this is undoubtedly the single largest problem facing the whole of Southern Africa.
Abroad, South Africa has pursued an independent foreign policy, dealing with a number of regimes that are out of favour with the West (Iran, Cuba, Libya) but whose support for the ANC during apartheid – when the US, UK, and others were supporting the regime – has not been forgotten. Relations with the USA and the West are nonetheless stable.
In sub-Saharan Africa, Mbeki – under the rubric of the Millennium Africa Plan – has intervened in a number of regional conflicts. These include Ethiopia/Eritrea, Burundi, and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Closer to home, the government has shown a sometimes uncertain touch – a blundering intervention in neighbouring Lesotho in 1998 was followed by inconclusive engagements in Angola and the Republic of Congo. Most recently, Mbeki has been confounded by the increasingly anarchic situation in Zimbabwe. Here again, the historical legacy of mutual support among liberation movements during the dark days of apartheid and UDI has made Mbeki extremely reluctant to take any measures against the Mugabe regime (see Zimbabwe).
Government: Under the terms of the new constitution, which was adopted on 8 May 1996 and entered into force on 4 February 1997, legislative power is vested in a bicameral parliament, comprising a National Assembly and a National Council of Provinces (formerly the Senate). The National Assembly is elected by universal adult suffrage under a system of proportional representation and has between 350 and 400 members. The 90-member National Council of Provinces comprises six permanent delegates and four special delegates from each of the provincial legislatures. The president, who is elected by the National Assembly from among its members, exercises executive power in consultation with the other members of the cabinet.
Copyright © 2003 Columbus Publishing Ltd.
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